PE Turbo

[Anonymous]

Not really sure you can say the higher rate pump isn't needed, i have installed it more for the same reason i installed the aquamist, for safety.

I know the Apexi comes with no rising rate fuel pressure reg so aren't you a bit concerned that your big injectors might not be squirting as much fuel as your thinking on hard WOT accelerations. I know you say it's running rich but for the sake of $140, you not tempted?

You are running 10psi, how well does it hold that pressure? With the apexi and the PE being about the same size there is alot of talk (mostly on SC) that they are inefficient around that area, and can tail off.

[Anonymous]

Isn't the spell checker annoying sometimes, i want to put W.O.T not what. GRRRRRR leave me alone!!!  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

[DAZ400]

At last someone else with an Apexi Turbo.......   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  

Ok i have being slowly changing bits so have no figures at the moment as final tuning has not yet happened.

I have the following Engine bits.

Standard Apexi Turbo with Intercooler.
Greddy Piggy back ECU as Power FC would not work with the SMT.
Greddy Profec-e01 Boost controller and multifunction display & Programmer
Standard Injectors at the moment.
High flow Fuel pump for use with bigger injectors.
Auamist 2D (Water/Methanol).
HKS Iridium Plugs 1 Step Cooler.
H & S Custom Exhaust with High Flow Racing CAT.

I am currently waiting to arrive this week my wideband O2  sensor and controller to measure A/F ratio for tuning, with narrowband output to feed to ECU. With this installed hope to get some fine tuning done then get it dynoed.

Do you have the forged internals in your engine ?

Darren........  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[Anonymous]

Not really sure you can say the higher rate pump isn't needed, i have installed it more for the same reason i installed the aquamist, for safety.

I know the Apexi comes with no rising rate fuel pressure reg so aren't you a bit concerned that your big injectors might not be squirting as much fuel as your thinking on hard WOT accelerations. I know you say it's running rich but for the sake of $140, you not tempted?

You are running 10psi, how well does it hold that pressure? With the apexi and the PE being about the same size there is alot of talk (mostly on SC) that they are inefficient around that area, and can tail off.

no, i m not concerned about my fuel pump at WOT at 10psi. like i said, i got 10.1:1 at WOT. actually our fuel pump can cope with up to 13psi of boost.

last time when i dynoed my car, i got boost creep at 10 psi.  s:( s:(   the boost will rise to 11-12psi range. thats not a big deal but i did port out my turbo after that. there should be no probs now.  s:) s:)  

i know apexi kit is a 8psi kit. but i just run it 2 more psi and if u see my hp figure, i know it is not that inefficient.  s:P s:P

[Anonymous]

At last someone else with an Apexi Turbo.......   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  

Ok i have being slowly changing bits so have no figures at the moment as final tuning has not yet happened.

I have the following Engine bits.

Standard Apexi Turbo with Intercooler.
Greddy Piggy back ECU as Power FC would not work with the SMT.
Greddy Profec-e01 Boost controller and multifunction display & Programmer
Standard Injectors at the moment.
High flow Fuel pump for use with bigger injectors.
Auamist 2D (Water/Methanol).
HKS Iridium Plugs 1 Step Cooler.
H & S Custom Exhaust with High Flow Racing CAT.

I am currently waiting to arrive this week my wideband O2  sensor and controller to measure A/F ratio for tuning, with narrowband output to feed to ECU. With this installed hope to get some fine tuning done then get it dynoed.

Do you have the forged internals in your engine ?

Darren........  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

hmmn..
i see u have a pretty much the same setup as mine except for the injectors. i really recommend u to put bigger injectors in if u plan to run more than 6 psi. stock injectors are rated 290cc/min which in my opinion is only good for 6 psi. but guys with SF kit in NC proved that the stockers can handle 10-13psi of boost. well, i just recommend u but its up to u to decide.. good luck on ur tuning.  s:) s:)  

my internals are bone stock coz i m not planning to increase my boost level. its already freakin fast for me..  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

[markiii]

Perry,

If you haven't already seen it, this may assist you.

 m http://www.speedtoys.com/~joel/ m

[DAZ400]

markiii just out of interest what mods have you done to your car ?

[markiii]

perfromance wise, TRD sportivo, TRD Front and rear strut braces, TRD member braces are on the way, antiflex plate, B&M shifter, inlet duct.

turbo is on the wish list but not til the car is paid for

EDIT And H&S Exhaust can't forget that   s:oops: :oops: s:oops:

[Anonymous]

..

[markiii]

so are you going to an installation report for us then Perry? Would be a good feature to add to teh site

[Anonymous]

....
I am currently waiting to arrive this week my wideband O2  sensor and controller to measure A/F ratio for tuning, with narrowband output to feed to ECU. With this installed hope to get some fine tuning done then get it dynoed.

Can you tell me which Wideband O2 sensor you have bought? I have a PLS device installed on a new welded bung, but i left the stock O2 sensor (i 've PPE Header). Before my choiche i read a lot of threads in a few forums and seems there are problems if replace your narrowband sensor with it( signal noise i.e). Also for sensor placement is necessary install annywhere before the catalytic converter and approximately 24 inches downstream from the engine block or turbo. The sensor element will fail if it is exposed to exhaust gas temperatures above 850 deg Celsius. Naturally this is only an advice.

[mph]

...Also for sensor placement is necessary install annywhere before the catalytic converter and approximately 24 inches downstream from the engine block or turbo. The sensor element will fail if it is exposed to exhaust gas temperatures above 850 deg Celsius.

For what it's worth, TTE are placing the O2 sensors on their kit *pre* turbo. As you point out, not the coolest place to put them. I wonder if they use special sensors that are specifically built for such temperatures?

[DAZ400]

I have bought the PLX M300 with the Bosch O2 Sensor and I intend to use the narrowband output to go to the ECU for both the O2 sensor inputs. I am also going to use the wideband linear output and connect this to one of the inputs on the Greddy Profec that way I can display my A/F ratio against boost, revs, thottle position, Injectors etc and also log this data using the Profec functions.   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[DAZ400]

My O2 sensor is positioned about 12 inches after the Turbo and a second bung for the second O2 sensor about another 12 inches from that. I intend to use the first bung.

[Anonymous]

I also have bought a PLX M-300. I read the values of display together those of map tracer of PFC and ... sometimes i have a look in the the street. It's very dangerous!
The O2 Wideband sensor is a BOSCH LSU4.2 that is used in a few models of VWagen and Volvo.     s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[Anonymous]

..

[Anonymous]

Congrats Perry. I'd still add the exhaust sometime as regardless of the nicer sound, the reduced back pressure will give more power and prolong the turbo's life. I'll see you next week anyway and we'll compare.   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[DAZ400]

Well told you it would be great, my car is awsome with the turbo if only Mr T had done this as standard oh what a car it would be and just destroy all the other so called soft top convertables won't swear and mention any names.

Market share Toyota 95%

  s:D s:D     s:D s:D     s:D s:D     s:D s:D     s:D s:D     s:D s:D     s:D s:D     s:D s:D

[Anonymous]

..

[mph]

Perry: you can borrow my old CAT, but I'd want it back in one piece   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

I had a custom exhaust made up. Was originally going to have a one made up that was down-pipe back, but the guy there (who's been doing custom & specialist exhausts for over twenty years) reckoned the PE downpipe is the bottle neck. He wasn't best pleased since he had to fab the turbo manifold and wastegate collection for no extra, but he's the one that recommended it so I'm not complaining. So I've now got a custom exhuast that's 2.5" all the way back to the turbo. If you're getting a custom made up, I'd recommend looking at getting the downpipe replaced too.

[Anonymous]

...Also for sensor placement is necessary install annywhere before the catalytic converter and approximately 24 inches downstream from the engine block or turbo. The sensor element will fail if it is exposed to exhaust gas temperatures above 850 deg Celsius.

For what it's worth, TTE are placing the O2 sensors on their kit *pre* turbo. As you point out, not the coolest place to put them. I wonder if they use special sensors that are specifically built for such temperatures?

I read that o2 sensors won't even develop their voltage, if not heated to at least 600 degrees (F).  I wonder what the temp is ... exiting the block ... AND what the fall-off rate is ... as the gases proceed down the exhaust pipe?

[Anonymous]

...Also for sensor placement is necessary install annywhere before the catalytic converter and approximately 24 inches downstream from the engine block or turbo. The sensor element will fail if it is exposed to exhaust gas temperatures above 850 deg Celsius.

For what it's worth, TTE are placing the O2 sensors on their kit *pre* turbo. As you point out, not the coolest place to put them. I wonder if they use special sensors that are specifically built for such temperatures?

I read that o2 sensors won't even develop their voltage, if not heated to at least 600 degrees (F).  I wonder what the temp is ... exiting the block ... AND what the fall-off rate is ... as the gases proceed down the exhaust pipe?

Indeed, the temperature of the oxy sensor can have a major affect on its output voltage... even for the same air/fuel ratio. The easiest way of limiting this variation is to use a heated oxygen sensor. During the dyno-tuning O2 sensor can be located in the tailpipe,i.e.. Using a heated oxygen sensor, however, makes sure that it still gets hot enough to output sensible voltages.

[Anonymous]

...Also for sensor placement is necessary install annywhere before the catalytic converter and approximately 24 inches downstream from the engine block or turbo. The sensor element will fail if it is exposed to exhaust gas temperatures above 850 deg Celsius.

For what it's worth, TTE are placing the O2 sensors on their kit *pre* turbo. As you point out, not the coolest place to put them. I wonder if they use special sensors that are specifically built for such temperatures?

I read that o2 sensors won't even develop their voltage, if not heated to at least 600 degrees (F).  I wonder what the temp is ... exiting the block ... AND what the fall-off rate is ... as the gases proceed down the exhaust pipe?

Indeed, the temperature of the oxy sensor can have a major affect on its output voltage... even for the same air/fuel ratio. The easiest way of limiting this variation is to use a heated oxygen sensor. During the dyno-tuning O2 sensor can be located in the tailpipe,i.e.. Using a heated oxygen sensor, however, makes sure that it still gets hot enough to output sensible voltages.

Soooo ... would it be fair/accurate to say that if o2 sensors are mounted at a different distance from the head than the factory mounting location, then the A/F ratio must be adjusted/tuned for that new mounting location -at least for closed-loop operation and "driveability"?

This seems to be an issue with the various header offerings because only the TRD header mounts the o2 sensors in/near the factory-stock location.  It appears that TopSecret mounts some 10 inches further down and PPE mounts perhaps another 10 inches further downstream.  Therefore, I wonder how much cooler the exhaust is that much further down the exhaust pipe ... and is it sufficiently warm to be within the operating range of the o2 sensor?

[Tem]

Just a quick sidenote...the O2 sensors have 4 wires, which means they are heated and should work just fine even at the end of the pipe. I wouldn't worry too much about their position...

Get wideband sensors if you want to be accurate  s8) s8)

[markiii]

...Also for sensor placement is necessary install annywhere before the catalytic converter and approximately 24 inches downstream from the engine block or turbo. The sensor element will fail if it is exposed to exhaust gas temperatures above 850 deg Celsius.

For what it's worth, TTE are placing the O2 sensors on their kit *pre* turbo. As you point out, not the coolest place to put them. I wonder if they use special sensors that are specifically built for such temperatures?

I read that o2 sensors won't even develop their voltage, if not heated to at least 600 degrees (F).  I wonder what the temp is ... exiting the block ... AND what the fall-off rate is ... as the gases proceed down the exhaust pipe?

Indeed, the temperature of the oxy sensor can have a major affect on its output voltage... even for the same air/fuel ratio. The easiest way of limiting this variation is to use a heated oxygen sensor. During the dyno-tuning O2 sensor can be located in the tailpipe,i.e.. Using a heated oxygen sensor, however, makes sure that it still gets hot enough to output sensible voltages.

Soooo ... would it be fair/accurate to say that if o2 sensors are mounted at a different distance from the head than the factory mounting location, then the A/F ratio must be adjusted/tuned for that new mounting location -at least for closed-loop operation and "driveability"?

This seems to be an issue with the various header offerings because only the TRD header mounts the o2 sensors in/near the factory-stock location.  It appears that TopSecret mounts some 10 inches further down and PPE mounts perhaps another 10 inches further downstream.  Therefore, I wonder how much cooler the exhaust is that much further down the exhaust pipe ... and is it sufficiently warm to be within the operating range of the o2 sensor?

The PPE is ceramic coated fo course, which keeps the gasses hoter and moving faster.