PE Turbo

[Anonymous]

well MWR have just mailed me to say the atthe turbo will be ported tomorrow and sent out on friday on 2-4 day delivery, so it should be long before I can get her sorted   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

Going to get Japseed (Southampton) to fit the actual turbo in its standard 4.5ps guise initially as I know Simon of old, however I will be looking for somewhere nearer to home for every day mods. Can anyone recommend any tuning place near to Northampton?  Owen developments at oxford for example?

[mph]

As with any other import, be aware of duty & VAT and how such values are calculated...

[Anonymous]

thanks for that, but have been caught out there before  s;-) ;-) s;-)

MWR have agreed to value the parcel on the paperwork at aprox $400 rather than $4,000 (as Takakaira do) but we'll have to see  s:? :? s:?  

I once had a body kit, and cf hood that both came as 'samples FOC' and paid nothing on delivery   s:D s:D    but luck has a lot to do with it as well

[aaronjb]

Even a average size water bottle lasts about 2 fills of fuel.

Wonder how big a bottle the Mk2 owner I knew had  s:shock: :shock: s:shock:  Must have been considerably smaller than yours (or he was running way too much water). actually, come to think of it, I think he was using a 1litre milk container  s:shock: :shock: s:shock:

If it runs out, then you put a light on the dash that tells you this so you just don't push the car. With the profec EBC he can wire the warning LED into it that tells it there's a problem and it will lower the boost back to a safe level. Hardly a risk is there with this in place?

Very true - I hadn't thought of it that way, I must admit.. So as long as it's mapped to be bulletproof(ish) at 4.5psi with no charge cooling, he'd be fine.. And I also must admit - a WI setup is a lot more compact than an IC, and certainly than a chargecooler (water/air IC) - I have trouble imagining how you'd fit the latter in our engine bay  s:) s:)

The other plus side is, I suppose, that with WI you are free to run a water/methanol mix too if you wish..

[markiii]

Martin, has a water air intercooler. however his is mounted up front.

[aaronjb]

Ah - good plan.. At least - I presume the core of the IC is in the rear, with the radiator for it up front? (Otherwise that'd be one giant intake tract!  s:) s:) )

[markiii]

 s:oops: :oops: s:oops:

[DAZ400]

Arron the tanks Ian & I have fitted are 1.5 L if I remember and don't forget that 80% of the time the car is driving without boost so the usage is not that bad unless you continually boot the go and stop pedal.

[aaronjb]

unless you continually boot the go and stop pedal.

 s:oops: :oops: s:oops:  That's my driving style!  s;) s;)

Funnily enough, WI was actually next on my list for the other car (untill work stopped, as it were), but that already had reasonable IC's.

I'd never really thought of WI as being a viable alternative to having any IC at all though - just as additional cooling.. I suppose that's just my 'classic' upbringing if you see what I mean (always having cars with factory fit turbo's, and therefore factory fit IC's that you just made bigger & more efficient to gain cooling)..

[Tem]

I'd never really thought of WI as being a viable alternative to having any IC at all though - just as additional cooling..

I kinda think about WI/IC as NO/turbo.

WI&IC are both an easy way to cool the air. IC is always there and requires practically no maintenance. WI needs constant refilling.

NO/turbo are both an easy way to get power. Turbo is always there and requires practically no maintenance. NO needs constant refilling.

Of course it's easier and cheaper to get water than NO, but in the end it's the same. You have to keep filling it all the time, or it will stop working...

[Anonymous]

I agree Tem but efficiency matters too, not just which need maintenance. The IC not done right can cause more problems than correct.

My opinion is simply, WI is not a better alternative to a well placed and sized IC, but it's just in our application it shines. There just isn't a good place to put a air/air IC that will be able to get a good air flow over it and be of a good size to disipate the heat, instead of soaking it in.

Now before the TTE enthuiasts start i know they have developed a air/air and i'm sure it'll be excellent BUT only at 4.5psi, so hey presto, they've done their job, and that's the most you'll need as you can't up the pressure because of warranty and the fact that the piggy back ECU won't be able to cope etc.

The water/air chargecooler is the only system i would use.As i already posted Pace Products in the UK supply a full kit for £456.50 which is the chargecooler core,front mount heat exchange,piping and water pump. The only fabrication needed is the pipes to it from the turbo and then from it to the throttle body. Again this is not maintenance free, if the pump stopped or a water leak occured the charge cooler would become a charge heater!!

The weekly/fortnightly refill of my water bottle is just part of my regular oil,water, tyre pressure checks now.

[DAZ400]

Yes Tem, but you have to put fuel in the car so theres no difference.....  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[aaronjb]

Yes Tem, but you have to put fuel in the car so theres no difference.....  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

Yeah, but (assuming you didn't have a clever system to lower the boost if the water runs out) if you run out of fuel you stop.. if you run out of water and keep booting it, you cook an engine  s:D s:D

I'll stop being so argumentative now  s;) s;)   s:) s:)

[DAZ400]

See Ians post previous that explains about water out indication and if this happens you should just be sensable about it and not drive the car hard until you fill the tank. Also don't forget Ian has run with no cooling at 6.5psi for the last 10 months with no issues.

[Tem]

Yes Tem, but you have to put fuel in the car so theres no difference.....  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

Local gas stations don't have water in same place as gasoline. So I'd have to fill up the gas first, then move the car to get the water. It's definitely more hassle, but of course everyone has to decide if it's too much for them  s;) s;)

I'm not worried about breaking the engine if it runs out, it's easy to prevent, like others have already said.

[Anonymous]

well I've just returned from my first full consultation with Japspeed (thank you Simon for expalining how it all works   s:? :? s:?  )

I've decided to go for an initial set up in the 4.5 psi guise (190bhp and loads more torque) and then add the MWR IC as soon as they can supply (have mailed them ref this and they had yet to decide the price, but roughly $1100)  i'm hoping they may come back to me today to confirm both price and that they have it in stock

I will then at a later point also have WI to increase the power as and when.

Simon (Japspeed) was of the view that on a fast road car WI is best used as an additional performance enhancer rather than a replacement for a IC
He didnt say that WI wouldnt suffice, just that it wouldnt be his preference.

As he is the guy who I will be going back to if the mota goes tits up then i'm quite happy to follow his advice at this time.

Obviously these are only his personal views and we all have those dont we  s;-) ;-) s;-)

[Anonymous]

justr had a thought   s:?: :?: s:?:  

whats the score with Aquamist in sub zero temperatures?  does the bottle have a heater? or can you add antifreeze to the mixture  s:? :? s:?    s:? :? s:?  ?

the way my washer jets fart around in the winter it could be a worry...no?

[Anonymous]

That's what the methanol is really in there for. As with windsceen washer fluid its got a low freezing point.

[GSB]

justr had a thought   s:?: :?: s:?:  

whats the score with Aquamist in sub zero temperatures?  does the bottle have a heater? or can you add antifreeze to the mixture  s:? :? s:?    s:? :? s:?  ?

the way my washer jets fart around in the winter it could be a worry...no?

An alternative look at this:

Would it matter? I for one am not in the habit of applying wide open throttle in sub zero temperatures, and I only have the standard 138 horses to contend with. Also the intake temp is going to be very low anyway, so added to the "careful" application of throttle, I doubt the ECU would even be calling for the WI...

Just my 2p worth  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[Anonymous]

Exactly right. The only thing that worries me is the pump, that is required to be put as far away from heat as possible.If the water froze in there it would crack it.

[Anonymous]

I only ask as I went out in the wifes mondeo the other day and the washer jets were frozen right up until about lunchtime (outside temp reading was 3 degrees)

Now with the PE turbo spooling at 1300rpm and full boost before 2500rpm surely the WI is going to be on unless you really are crawling along?

I was doing 80 down the motorway with frozen washer jets as the roads were clear, if it was the same with the Aquamist bottle then I would be at full boost with no water surely?

as for the methanol, I didnt know it was put in there to be truthful?

[DAZ400]

with upto 50% methanol water mix which is what I am currently running in the cold weather nothing is freezing..............   s:D s:D

[GSB]

Now with the PE turbo spooling at 1300rpm and full boost before 2500rpm surely the WI is going to be on unless you really are crawling along?

I think those figures are based upon wide open throttle.. in part throttle situations, like a gentle cruise or around town, the turbo is going to be doing hardly any work at all...

[Anonymous]

Perry have you driven a turbo car before? The WI will not start untill it reaches a pre-set positive manifold pressure.You can accelerate quite hard on half throttle area without any boost at all. Infact the car can be driven as you would normally drive a car when cold (or hot) without any positive manifold pressure, right up to red line RPM. The turbo is more of a WOT only animal.  s:evil: :evil: s:evil:  (not saying that the turbo only works on WOT before someone tells me off)

[Anonymous]

Ah ha I see   s:wink: :wink: s:wink: