PE Turbo

[Anonymous]

well its all unpacked and in the garage awaiting the big day



final costings were:-

Fully ported turbo kit            $3420
Upgraded fuel pump             $140 (not required but my choice)
Preprogrammed e-manage   $549
UPS freight                          $290

Total                                    $4399 = £2415

Tax/import duties                  £135  MWR paperwork set at $900 for me!

Fitting E-Manage                   Free  (Daz and myself)

Fitting mechanicals                £140   (1/2 day at mates toyota dealership)

Total cost to go turbo              £2690  + oil/gaskets etc

I am going with profec boost controller, aquamist and a few other bits but thats the basic on the road 190bhp version costed at todays exch rates (190 using US petrol so optimax should up it a bit for you)

Not bad when you compare it with the price of a decent header, CAI and chip etc etc

hope that helps

[Slacey]

Sooo jealous!  s:x :x s:x  

I MUST see the car when it is done  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[mph]

It wouldn't be a bad thing to get the manifold ceramic coated inside and out before you fit. Don't bother with the colourful stuff, just go with the best heat qualities..

[Anonymous]

 s8) s8)   I'm jealous too.....   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

And the big day is???

[Anonymous]

FRIDAY 26TH MARCH !!!!!  (and counting)

[Anonymous]

Can anyone tell me what the internal diameter is of the vacuum hose that my dump valve will be connecting to?  Was in the middle of ordering the valve to be told that I need to order a particular bore of pipe and a t-piece to match? (havnt got the car with me)

If not.......could you tell me in idiots language which pipe this is and where to look so I dont measure the wrong one   s:oops: :oops: s:oops:  

I literally have no idea   s:oops: :oops: s:oops:    s:oops: :oops: s:oops:    s:oops: :oops: s:oops:

[Anonymous]

by this I mean the thin pipe from the top of the dump valve, not the big pipe frpm the turbo out put

[aaronjb]

I've always used 4mm ID hose in the past - usually silicone, but that's because I like the pretty colours  s:D s:D  - plus it stretches more, easier to get on, and just needs a zip tie around it to secure it nicely..

[DAZ400]

yep 4mm is about right don't worry I have joiners and t pieces.

[aaronjb]

yep 4mm is about right don't worry I have joiners and t pieces.

I used to get mine from B&Q (pond section) when I was feeling a bit pikey  s:D s:D  (And didn't fancy paying the extortionate price Demon Tweeks wanted for metal ones!)

[Anonymous]

cheers guys!  I'll go with 4mm then.  as a matter of interest if anyone has a pic of the engine bay with the vacuum pipe visible at some point it would be much appreciated  s;-) ;-) s;-)   (I'm on a very steep learning curve at the mo )

[Anonymous]

Best i've got mate



See the blue hose from the dump valve

[mph]

Ugh! Do you really want a dump valve? It might sound pretty but makes the throttle less responsive and definitely more laggy. It'll also screw with your fuelling with the danger of running lean. I'm so glad they're totally incompatible with SMT!

[Anonymous]

Eh? The dump valve when it blows releases air, which the MAF has already detected.With this the ECU doesn't know this so still adds fuel to the system for the amount of air it has detected, this makes the engine run rich, not lean. A recirculating which i believe Perry is getting eliminates the problem.

I've wound the sensitivity screw all the way in on mine so the BOV isn't working while i'm sorting the fueling, to no noticible difference in any way.

The sound isn't the reason it's there, some people including myself think it does sound good, that's just a plus point of fitting one, it's to give the turbo more longevity with less back pressure.

[mph]

If a recirculating system worked as we think it should work, then SMT shouldn't have a problem, but it does.

Speculation: The reason for lean caution is that if you're backing off to the point the dump valve releases, you're also back in closed loop. The O2s will read rich and back off the stock fuelling, just at the point you're likely to be putting your foot back down again and you're bang into running lean until either the O2s catch up or you go back into open loop. Controlling fuelling around this area is tricky, even when you're on a dyno.

Fact from ficition: other than dump valve manufacturers and enthusiasts that don't have the ability to prove their comments in a controlled manner where do you hear 'evidence' that dump valves increase longevity? If enough people say the same thing, it's got to be true, right?
With serious turbos (ie, anything over 3bar), fatiguing of the compressing vanes occurs, but I've yet to find anything about smaller turbos, and certainly nothing about the 0.5bar that we're targetting.

[Anonymous]

Works both ways. There isn't the evidence to show it does improve the turbo's life and there isn't any against. It's just make your own mind up time. I feel you state that you couldn't get it to work right on YOUR car, so they must be a bad thing, so don't get one. I say they do work, maybe just a nice sound, but if it helps the turbo at all it's a bonus.They certainly won't have an adverse affect on the turbo life anyway.

This has become a topic drift on something Perry never asked about, if a BOV is a good idea or not.Just wanted to know what size pipe he needs.

4mm is correct.

[mph]

Yep, topic drift   s:oops: :oops: s:oops:

[Anonymous]

interesting diversion there guys  :-) :-) :-)  sorry was out and missed it live  s;-) ;-) s;-)

I've gone for a dual port dv which recirculates at low pressure but vents to the atmospere under hard acceleration.  And yes I love the noise as well  s:D s:D    to be truthful thats why half the people on here who have the apexi power intake do so....the noise   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

cheers guys   s:D s:D

[Anonymous]

I ran for 10months with no intercooler at 6.5psi with my PE and pre-programmed e-manage.

What happened after/at 10 months?
Did it break?
If so, what broke?

thanks,

[DAZ400]

Ian's car is fine, nothing broke he has now added Water Injection.

[Anonymous]

Yeh i just changed it for more power, now got WI, bigger injectors and fuel pump.   s:D s:D  

If i was happy at 6.5 then what i had was working really well

[Anonymous]

bigger fuel pump isnt necessary if u run with stock internal. if u go forged, then it's different case. i run 10 psi all day with no probs at all.. but with methanol injected system.   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[DAZ400]

What size injectors do you have fitted ?
Have you measured your fuel pressure ?
Have you Dynoed your Car ?
What other mods have you done ?

sorry for all the questions but I am interested in what you have done   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[Anonymous]

What size injectors do you have fitted ?
Have you measured your fuel pressure ?
Have you Dynoed your Car ?
What other mods have you done ?

sorry for all the questions but I am interested in what you have done   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

are u asking me..?

sard 530cc injectors.

no i havent measured my fuel pressure yet but i run 10.1:1 at 10 psi boost. it's pig rich.

my first base dyno was 200 hp at the wheels tuned to only 6000 rpm with stock flywheel, clutch, and LSD. no water/methanol injection and vvti tuning at that time.

my current engine mods:

-ported apexi turbo kit
-aquamist 2d (water/meth)
-sard 530cc injectors
-power FC
-FC datalogit
-1 step colder copper sparkplugs gapped to 0.76mm
-turbosmart boost controller
-TPS titanium muffler
-downpipe
-fidanza flywheel
-ACT TC2-HDR6 clutch
-10% toluene mixture on 98RON petrol.

i will update u guys with my "final" dyno tuning result.   s:D s:D

[Anonymous]

hey DAZ400, i see u have the same turbo setup as mine. tell me ur numbers..  s:) s:)