My 3SGTE engine install

[grsymons]

As promised here is my build progress to date, hope you like pics   s:D s:D  
Appologies if its a little disjointed as the text has mostly been cut and pasted from my thread on twobrutal

Heres a pic of the unsuspecting car.



The first issue that needed investigation was the driveshafts, here is a pic of the mk3 outer cv:



Luckily the outer cv has the same spline configuration as the mk1 so my plan is to use the AE92 supercharger driveshafts from my mk1 swap.
Here is a pic of the AE92 outer cv:



As pointed out to my by Paul W there is an issue with the length of the splines, the ae92 cv's splines are simply not long enough and prevent the face of the joint from contacting the bearing in the hub.



As you can see in the above picture once fitted you cannot see the engagement, after alot of measuring I determined that approximatly 3mm extra was needed.
To test this I placed 4mm of washer in the hub as per the pic below then reassembled the joint.





You can see that the gap has increased by approximately 1mm, from this it is possible to deduce that inserting a 4mm spacer will allow face to face contact between the bearing and the joint.
My proposal is sketched below, the plan is to have the following spacer manufactured, note by doing this the abs ring will be in the wrong place so a second spacer is required to restore the 13.5mm dimension.



This method also creates another minor issue with the retaining nut, and a new hole will need creating



The next issue is the driveshaft lengths, sadly there is no way of easily checking that without dropping the engine, the thought of the shafts not fitting played with my mind more than a little as I really didnt want to have to reinstall the old engine again.
A shot of the engine prior to test fit:



bye bye 1zz:



After initially lifting the 3sgte into the bay it was instantly apparent that I would have to cut into the passenger side chassis rail to clear the gearbox (something I was expecting). The rear suspension crossmember also required a little grinder action.
The engine was fitted/removed quite a few times before I got it into a position I was happy with. After checking the end float of the driveshaft I could finally relax a little as they appear to be a perfect fit.
A pic of the chassis rail cutout:



pics of the chassis rail cutout:





Engine positioned on blocks:





A few pics around the bay to show clearances:









Next job is to look at the engine mounts. The gearbox mount base was fouling against the chassis so I repositioned the holes and cut it down to size.



The mount can then be fabricated to pick up on the existing chassis tapped holes. this will be fully welded with a closing plate on top. Note that I have allowed for approximately 10mm of drop in the rubber mount. I wont be able to test this until the other mount has been made.



Considering I have only been on this for 1 week I am pretty pleased with the progress. Sadly things will slow down a little now as I start a new job on monday.
much more to follow..............

Today we did a little more work on the gearbox mount.



Here it is test fitted, it looks like we will need to increase the height of the chassis cutout to allow the engine to be craned in as the gearbox was hitting the upper part.



Here is the RH side engine mount, its still not finished but you get the idea.



And a pic of it fitted:



Finally heres a shot of the engine hanging properly in the bay, im pretty please with its position.



next on the list is the front and rear torque mounts

THe RH mount needed bending to follow the profile of the chassis rail



Had another busy day on the car today, although it doesnt look it as we only got 1 torque mount done.

As per the other pics, it still need finishing and tidying up a bit.







To get the mount to sit flat against the gearbox a couple of spacers were required:



Managed to get a couple of hours in this morning, so started looking at the front torque mount.

I have never been happy with just 2 bolts holding this to the gearbox so will be adding an extra brace (shown in red) back to the box.

The back plate mounted to the car will hopefully go on a bit of a diet once everything is positioned properly.



We got the front torque mount fabbed up today, with the extra tab back to the gearbox. Much more sturdy now





Also got the tab welded to the right side engine mount as discussed previously.



As you can see above the engine has been dropped so that next week we can get the chassis rail welded back up again. Then hopefully we can get the car back on its wheels and I can give my dad his garage back.

Today we got the chassis rail welded back up.







I also drilled the third hole and started to tidy up the RH engine mount. I think this will get a few more holes put in it to take away a little of the excess weight.



Next problem to solve is the gear linkage, below is the standard mk3 unit, sadly it operates the cables incorrectly for the tubby gearbox.



I am hoping that I can use the linkage from my mk1 swap. On a side note, I always had an issue with selecting first in the mk1 so I did a little measuring. By moving the cable as I did below it shortens the stroke of the linkage, if I move it back in a little I believe the problem will be fixed.



To remove the gear cable you need to drop the fuel tank. The mk3 does not have a drain point so I removed the pump and siphoned out the fuel. Below you can see the access panel that lives below the drivers side cubby hole.



Tank removed.



Below you can now see the two clamps that hold the gear cable in place.



No pics, but I roughly fitted the mk1 cables and it appears that they will be too short, so next time I will see if the mk3 cables can be used with the mk1 linkage.

I did some quick calcs to see how I the car should drive once it is complete and the result was:



Today we got the rear crossmember welded back up.



A few pics showing the clearance in the engine bay.







A big thankyou to Adam for machining up my driveshaft adaptors

Will be fitting them tomorrow hopefully.

[grsymons]

We do have a small lathe in my dads garage but it is simply not acurate enough to produce these to the correct tolerance. However it did get a little use today, it appears I miscalculated a little and the chamfer was fouling on the circlip  so I rather crudely machined a step into them for clearance.



Today we had a look at the driveshafts, we fitted Adam's lovely spacers





The abs ring sits at exactly the same distance from the face as before so it looks like another



Finally we re-drilled the end to fit a new split pin. Note that the nut still travels past the old hole so there will be no reduction in strength here.



I didnt manage to get the car back on its wheels as I have misplaced one of the rear brake carriers. I will properly check the end float next week, but first impressions look good though.

Today, I got the car back on its wheels for the first time.



The driveshafts are virtually horizontal and I still have a good bit of endfloat, so success

I am hoping to retain the air-con so I had a little look at how to mount the compressor, unbelievably it bolt straight up to the engine. Sadly the pulleys dont quite line up though.





I may just leave it bolted up there for now and treat it as a seperate project for later.

Next I had a look at the gear linkage, I was hoping to use the mk3 cables but their ends are different and would require modification so mk1 cables it is. With the cables connected to the gearbox you can see below how much they need extending.



Rather than re-invent the wheel I will come up with a method similar to what Paul Woods has done with his V6 swaps.

Below is a couple of shots to compare the mk1 and mk3 shifter mechanisms.





Well, for the last couple of days I have been playing around with the gear linkage. Its been quite frustrating, you need to mount the gear pivot point quite high so that you get full stick movement in the tunnel aperture but that then means that the extended cable fouls the underside of the tunnel cover. I suspect that 'as suggested' if I use the slightly longer mk2 cables I will have better clearance.

After alot of tweaking I have come to the conclusion that I want to try something a little different. If it works it should provide a much more positive gearchange. If it doesnt, I will delete this post and carry on with the old design

I have also annoyingly discovered that there isnt enough room to fit the downpipe with the engine in situ, so it looks like I will be dropping it again soon.

I think I finally have the cable issue solved. First, below is a pic showing the position of the shifter in relation to the tunnel aperture.



Below is a pic showing my first mockup attemt, as you can see the cable extensions are pretty long which leads to the foul with the tunnel.



An here is my revised mockup using the mk3 cables. As the cables are quite a bit longer than the mk1 items I had to re-route them a little. Hopefully I will still be able to refit the storage box trim over the top once the exact route is finalised and the cables are clipped in place.



The retaining bracket position needs a little refining for the forward-backwards cable but the side to side cable is perfect
Once I have the postion sorted I will have to cut the end off the forward-backwards cable to attach the mk1 joint to the end.



One positive benefit of the relocated cables is that they now follow a much better path without tight bends.
NOTE: to get the cables to fit the mounting brackets I ground down the diameter a little so they pass through the mounting holes.



One minor update, it seem using the mk3 cables is not without its problems.
The gearbox end of the cable is too long between the mounting point and the end. This prevents gear selection, I will hopefully fab up a new mounting bracket in the position shown below at the weekend and with luck have functioning gears.



Gear linkage is now nearly complete, will post some pics next week.

Next job to look at is the water pipes. First I had to work out what pipe goes where. Note that the MK3 does not have a heater return line in the engine bay (it joins the main return line in the front of the car)









Finally got the gear linkage finished. Its not pretty, but it works beautifully!
I think I mak have to modify the plastic housing a little though, i wont know for sure until I put all the trim back together properly.



As I mentioned previously, I have had to modify the cable mounting point on the clutch cylinder. Here is a pic:



Rather than updating 2 threads I though it would make more sense to keep it all together, so here is a quick recap of my st205 chargecooler to rev 1 install.







I will be using a st185 flexible for the install. Note that I removed the outer ring to allow easier fitment over the chargecooler outlet.



Its a pain to fit but it will stretch over the outlet.



One of the mounts required removal, also the water pipes need to be re-phased a little as per the pic above. This is carefully done by inserting a bar into the pipe and bending gently.



As you see above, the air inlet does not line up properly with the turbo.



I inserted a piece of round bar to prevent deformation and rephased carefully with a piece of wood and a hammer.





Here is a chargecooler bracket I started to make today. I tapped the engine lift bracket to allow for easier installation/removal.



I also started the mk1 mr2 expansion bottle bracket.



Here is the exhaust I am hoping to use, it was originally fitted to a ferrari 355.



This isnt the final installation position, that is still to be determined.

I took delivery of my new koyo radiator today



I made a bit of a discovery today, my gear linkage has always been a bit slopy (on the mk1.5) heres why. I removed the gear linkage for painting and there appeared to be a bit missing (see the square block pictured on my spare)



Fitted the block and the gear change has been transformed, cant believe I never noticed this before!

Next job was to remove the speedo drive and plug the hole.





Engine mounts are looking much better with a bit of paint on them.



Also got the clutch piping sorted today. I used the mk1 hose fitted with the adaptor that adamh made for me on the mk1.5 swap. I had to knock up a simple bracket to hold the hard pipe that has been bent into the new position.



Finally all starting to come together now



Another toy arrived today

My AEM wideband gauge & sensor (will also output into the Syvecs ECU)



Exhaust back box now hanging:



The standard air inlet elbow is too tall to fit in the bay, however turn it 180 degrees and it fits fine. plumbing into the BOV should be pretty easy too in this orientation.



The air filter will fit somewhere near the pic below with a bracket down to the engine mount for support.



I also fitted the ignitor, resistor pack and the coolant filler neck. The ignitor will be getting a weather shield fitted too, especially as its right below the coolant filler.



Starting to look like a proper engine bay now.



Tomorrow the plan is to get the new radiator fitted and look at mounting the charge cooler rad too.

I got the new radiator dropped in today, sadly one of the rubber mounts is knackered so I will need a trip to toyota before I can install it properly. It looks the business though



I have mocked up a couple of the water hoses, the heater hose will need some insulation where it is close to the starter.



I also had a look at the throttle cable, in the end I chose the same method as my mk1.5 swap and made a couple of slotted washers.





I have decided to remove the air-con, the compressor would have needed alot of work to fit. I also discovered that the radiator up front was knackered too. at least now without it the airflow to the water rad will be less compromised.

The heater hose neede a little attention as the angle it exited the tunnel sent it straight into the downpipe.



A bit of bar and a bit of heat was applied to straighten it out a little. The hose will still be fairly close to the downpipe so I will use a little pipe attached to the engine and all will get some thermal insulation.



I also started to look at the chargecooler rad install. luckily there is just enough room around the side of the main rad for the reducing elbows.





The chargecooler hoses will get some convoluted tube for protection, this is roughly the route they will take.



The car has had a good while back on its wheels now and the suspension has settled more than I had expected so I spent yesterday tweaking the engine mounts to raise the engine up a little. I believe that this may require me to have another go at the chassis rail to gain some gearbox clearance. Something I can look at later if it becomes a problem.

[loadswine]

Ace stuff Gary, thanks for sharing on here.

[Captain Vimes]

Amazing stuff.

I always enjoy reading through build threads on TB, it's great to see the MK3 getting more focus from TB's. The results are going to be quite spectacular I'm sure.

[grsymons]

Cheers guys, if I ever get the time I will copy over some more of my build into my posts above. Will hopefully have the exhaust system properly fabbed up this weekend.

[grsymons]

Exhaust install is just about finished now. The pipe near the sump will need some heatwrap on it as its very tight (Like most of the install)

[loadswine]

Superb Gary, nice plumbing!   s:) s:)

[grsymons]

Today I got the rear cover on so I could make the cut-outs for the exhaust pipes.


I also got the brackets finished to mount the chargecooler radiator.

[Rowland]

Very nice, is there much work still needed to get her up and running..?

  s:D s:D

[grsymons]

Very nice, is there much work still needed to get her up and running..?

  s:D s:D

Thanks,

still plenty of little jobs to do yet. The biggest ones being finish the exhaust, install fuel pump & pipework, fabricate a battery holder up front, engine air inlet pipework, finish chargecooler install and the wiring.

[loadswine]

Be interested to see where you put the battery up front Gary. That's one of the things I want to do, but can't weld, so need to be inventive. Plus I'd like to try and keep the frunk bin as intact as possible.

[grsymons]

Be interested to see where you put the battery up front Gary. That's one of the things I want to do, but can't weld, so need to be inventive. Plus I'd like to try and keep the frunk bin as intact as possible.

I cant weld either! I have to thank my dad for doing that for me. I have a few ideas for the battery, but still havent worked it out yet. I will probably be losing most if not all of the frunk bin, which is a shame as I discovered you can get alot of stuff in there for JAE   s:D s:D

[grsymons]

Today I knocked up a mount for the chargecooler pump from a bit of old exhaust pipe.




I also fabricated up a heatshield to protect the bulkhead and all the pipes/gearlinkage cables.

[loadswine]

Getting there! That heatshield will be very useful. Having an exhaust manifold inches away from the firewall really does heat things up.   s:) s:)

[grsymons]

I have now updated the first 2 posts with all my build photos as promised, the text has been cut and pasted from twobrutal so may not make complete sense    s:) s:)  

This weekend I decide that it was about time that I gave my dad his garage back so out came the car.



I think it may need a bit of a clean!



And a quick pic showing why my dad wants his garage, he is renovating a 1938? austin 12



Today I started looking at the front mounted battery, it looks like I will either cut up the front bin to make it fit or more likely abandon it completely. The spare wheel will still fit under the battery, although I will have to move the alarm unit to the side.

[philster_d]

Nice one.

Taking out the front bin and making a new more usable space plus transfering some weight to the front like the battery was always on my to do list.

Philster

[grsymons]

The first thing I noticed was how much better the car handled with a bit more weight up front, I have added a fair bit of weight to the rear so hopefully this will go a small way to re-adressing the balance. Mind you my battery relocation is more out of necessity than anything else as there is now no room in the engine bay   s:P s:P

[aaronjb]

Great work and hats off to you for attempting something not many people have done before (if anyone! I know Rogue fitted a Beams 3S, but I don't know of any GTE installs)  s:) s:)

Now, are those blocks of wood there functional, or purely decorative?  s;) s;)

[grsymons]

They are structural!   s:D s:D

[Rogue]

This is a good looking build - very interesting to see how you've overcome the various issues. If I can offer you one piece of advice it would be to remove the carpet above the rear bulkhead and just monitor the temperatures there. Even with just the BEAMS engine installed there was enough heat to start melting the soundproofing material!

Great work and hats off to you for attempting something not many people have done before (if anyone! I know Rogue fitted a Beams 3S, but I don't know of any GTE installs)  s:) s:)

The BEAMS 3SGE actually replaced the rev 5 3SGTE engine that we originally installed. This photo was taken in June 2005:



Some of you may also remember seeing the car with the 3SGTE installed at JAE in 2006:



In fairness though the car was never driven in anger with the 3SGTE installed as it wasn't road legal at the time. The opportunity came up for me to purchase a BEAMS engine and I thought that this would be the perfect crossover engine for the Roadster - all the 2.0 litre cast iron goodness of the mk2 with the VVTi technology of the Roadster. Then I got carried away with a forged build, custom internals, GT28 turbo, custom manifolds etc. etc. Ultimately the project never got finished and I sold the engine package to someone with a mk2:



The car made in excess of 350 BHP at the hubs... That could've been my Roadster... Doh!

I'm really looking forward to driving Rowland's 3SGTE equipped Super GT race car to find out what I missed. We can't take it out on public roads yet because although it's road legal the exhaust system ends at the downpipe and it's a little loud...!

[grsymons]

This is a good looking build - very interesting to see how you've overcome the various issues. If I can offer you one piece of advice it would be to remove the carpet above the rear bulkhead and just monitor the temperatures there. Even with just the BEAMS engine installed there was enough heat to start melting the soundproofing material!

Cheers, temps will definately get monitored on this one thats for sure. Engine bay cooling is something on the list to do once the engine is running.

[grsymons]

Not much progress on the project this week, but I have just about finished the front mounted battery installation.

[Paulm]

Nice work gary, keep it going

[grsymons]

The battery mount is now finished, rather than post another pic I have updated the last one above.

[grsymons]

Been pretty busy with other stuff for a while but I have still got on with a few car jobs.

I have started fabricating another heat shield to try and keep some of the engine heat away from the firewall as the soft top is stored on the other side.



I have also started playing with a bike radiator fan to try and get some cool air forced into the bay. I cant remember what bike it came off but it is more than man enough for the job, it kick out much more air than the mk1 fan.



Initially I planned to mount the alternator as I had in the mk1 using the celica mount, sadly that would require a mod to the bulkehead as it fouls.



Stupidly I have thrown out 2 perfectly good mr2 turbo alternator mounts, thankfully Paul W had a mk2 na bracket that he let me have. It needs a little fettling but I am sure I can get it to work with my tubby alternator.