CAI Options.......just mulling this idea over

Started by Anonymous, March 8, 2004, 19:33

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Anonymous



AEM @ £265

PPE Which we all know about

Summit like this:



£150

Summit like this with pipes etc




The Quikshift Racing Taipan intake systems have been designed to give the ultimate in air induction technology. Cold air fed directly from the front of the vehicle is channelled into a genuine carbon fibre chamber encased with polished aluminium end plates. The cold air is drawn into the unique inverted stainless steel filter maximising airflow. The Taipan has the capabilities to unleash real power gains whilst retaining a distinctive induction note.
 
£150

Slacey

#1
Pesonally I think the PPE or Pelican Racing mod are still the best bets.
Ex 2002 Black / Red Leather Hass Turbo

markiii

#2
If you must do HOT AIR INDUCTION

go PPE
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

markiii

#3
will you mother let you do this though?

I'm being serious by the way, I remember you told me she wouldn't allow you to sell the wheels when you wanted to upgrade?
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

Anonymous

#4
Erm........

o..........k tbh i just didn't wanna sell them.

Here is the link for all to view:

 m http://www.mr2roc.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t ... ght=wheels m

I wouldn't expect snide comments like this from admin.

markiii

#5
I was actually refering to an conversation we had offline, rather than that link, but hey, as I said I was being serious no snideness intended.  s:roll: :roll: s:roll:  Apologies if it came across that way.

If you really didn't want to sell them then thats cool, just going on what you told me.

Anyway as I said to answer your question the PPE is teh only one that has dynoed any power, the AEM and similar even teh Apexi (much as it's popular) are really more for noise than show. Not thats that is necessarily a bad thing. depends what your after.
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

Tem

#6
Quote from: "markiii"Anyway as I said to answer your question the PPE is the only one that has dynoed any power

I'm pretty sure several ppl at SC have dynoed AEM for 2-3hp increase. There were several dynos before the crash/hack, enough to convince me that it's more than just a dyno error.

And IIRC, someone in here (during the Yahoo list time?) has dynoed an Apexi with +3hp...
Sure you can live without 500hp, but it\'s languishing.

markiii

#7
trouble with the SC results if I remember correctly is that no-one did a baseline first, 2-3bhp over stock could be down to so many things other than the AEm, even dyno errors.

First time I've heard of teh APexi making power, but if anyone has dyno results I'd be intrigued to see them.
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

Anonymous

#8
LeeUK has the apexi. I was following him the other day and you can REALLY hear it under throttle.....seems to pick up a little quicker as well although it might just be mine isn't picking up as fast as it used to.

markiii

#9
the apexi noise is gorgeous I agree. pick up, tends to relate to throttle response and there I can beleive it makes a difference.

experiment with the pocketlogger shows there is increased airflow, but the temperature goes up, hence better response but no increase in power as one cancels out the other. Of course on a cold day you may get the beneift without the disadvantage. On a warm day you lose teh cooling effect of teh stock box. Hence teh theoretical benefit behind the inlet duct

also worth considering is that a long inlet tract is supoposed to benefit bottom end torque whereas a short one is supposed to benefit top end power.

hence why teh PPE makes power at the top end, and the AEM, APEXi should keep it at teh bottom if they make any.
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

Jap GT300

#10
Quote from: "markiii"If you must do HOT AIR INDUCTION

go PPE

PPE is one of the few Cold Air induction kits.  It has a heat shield behind the battery and draws air from the passenger intake.

markiii

#11
true, if you can get the heatshield on, which lokign at your may be interesting.
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

DAZ400

#12
I read a report some where once and all were tested and bearing inmind no one wants debrie sucked in there engine the apexi filter was significantly better than the others.   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
SOLD No more 2. Just a bus for the family..........

markiii

#13
no doubt about it DAZ, intake location aside Apexi make the absolute best filters.

shame they don't make a panel.
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

Tem

#14
Too lazy to dig up the link, but it's in mkiv.com under tech articles...
Sure you can live without 500hp, but it\'s languishing.

Anonymous

#15
could it be that difficult to get an Apexi filter sat out in the cold air stream...you know, get a different hose made up?

DAZ400

#16
I don't think so People just have to make an effort depends on how enthusiastic people are.    s:D :D s:D
SOLD No more 2. Just a bus for the family..........

Anonymous

#17
After reading air-inlet pipe options, I decided to try by-passing the venturi pipe, leading into the air filter box. I simply replaced that curved black plastic venturi-shaped tube, leading into the air-filter box with 3" flexible clothes dryer hose. `glad I did.

A half-dozen "poor-man's dyno" runs verified that the time has dropped 0.18 seconds from an average of 8.17 seconds to 7.99 seconds!

Furthermore, these new times were recorded with a Full tank; my records show that the previous times were recorded with 1/4 tank of gas. So, call it a 0.2 second improvement, which, I think, IS significant (about 4 hp at my 2,440 pound running weight).

What's more, I could easily feel the difference ... it was definitely pulling quite noticeably stronger from 5,500 - 6,500 rpm. The rest of the range felt more torquey, too. And, although 6,500 - 7,000 rpm is not included in the "poor-man's dyno" run, mine now pulled just as strongly to the redline fuel cutout; it used to die noticeably after 6,500 rpm. So, that venturi pipe definitely costs some horsepower (in my mind) ... especially since these improvements were recorded with a showroom stock car (i.e. with no low-restriction muffler, header or cpu-chip diddling).

Last, but not least (? ... for the audiophiles in the audience), the sound was quieter and deeper.

The above times were recorded at 35 degrees with a showroom stock 2003 (with ~35 pounds removed from no spare, jack kit or plastic tire cover). These times were recorded with the previous CAI (also 3" flexible clothes-dryer hose) from the left-side body vent to the stock inlet, below and in front of the fuse box.

These were, no doubt, the cheapest horses I'll get out of the beast!    s:P :P s:P

Anonymous

#18
I have designed an intake that allows you to switch back and forth between a "racing" configuration (which helps out quite a bit at higher RPMs due to the shortness of the tube) and an AEM-like configuration.  At first I was going to do something fairly complicated, having a butterfly valve opened/closed at two different RPMs, but simplified it to be manually reconfigured for street (low to midrange RPMs for the most part) or racing (mid to high RPMs).  I made and tested a prototype, which performed well.  The "racing" configuration is basically a "Pelican Racing" design, but with the addition of a resonant chamber (which will have a different volume in the next version).

In the "racing" configuration I broke the N/A record for 1/4 mile in the Monkeywrench database, which was not a huge improvement over my previous best time (a few tenths IIRC), but it was nice to see it work.  This was without even having a heat shield, an optimal length, or a couple of other improvements.  I was actually dissappointed for a little while because I had higher hopes, but with the upcoming improvements it should be something that I feel others would be quite happy with.

The other configuration, which utilizes the longer tube (also with a small resonant chamber), should be as good as if not better than the AEM (an improvement over stock in midrange RPMs).

To switch between configurations you will have to move the MAF (there will be two different MAF mounting points, one will always be capped off) and also cap off either the short tube or long tube at a "Y".

My prototype is cobbled together out of parts from the stock intake, a rubber Y, and some aluminim tubing, but a guy on SpyderChat known as CeeDapp (Corky), who also makes nice antiflex plates (I have one of the first ones), is going to be making one out of aluminum for me with better fit and finish (professionally welded, probably anodized aluminum or perhaps powder coated).  I think it is going to be the best intake out there.  You will be able to use any air filter with a 3 inch collar.  I found one that works well and only costs $30 (HR Racing).  It is quite similar to the Apexi... same size and shape and a funnel at the end.

Corky will set the pricing (it will be his product, not mine, I'm not doing this for $$), but I think it will end up being about the same price as an AEM.

---

Something related:  Corky and I codesigned a battery box for the Hawker Genesis G13EP (13 Amp Hour) lightweight battery.  He is selling them now.  I think the price is $35.  You can mount this battery (saves about 16 lbs compared to stock) either where the stock battery is or in a lower position (provided you don't have SMT).  The battery box is a little lighter than stock, but the main advantage is to very securely mount the little battery.  The alternatives are to modify stock parts (drill a hole, cuts some more threads on a rod) or cobble something together yourself and hope it passes tech at an autocross.

Relocating the battery will be required for this new type of intake because part of the intake will be in the area occupied by the stock battery.  Same story there... I don't have a financial interest in it... just trying to design some things to improve the car.  Corky's topic (where he is selling the battery boxes) is called "Lightweight Battery Box" I think.  Also see my topic "Relocating the Lightweight Battery".  There will be more pictures soon.

Slacey

#19
Folks, note that the topics Beanie mentions in his post above are over at Spyderchat, before anyone  mentions that they can't find them here  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Ex 2002 Black / Red Leather Hass Turbo

Anonymous

#20
Note about 2/3 down this article ( m http://www.mr2roc.org/content/articles/essen/essen.php m )

TTE (Team Toyota Europe) copied my "clothes-dryer CAI" idea   s:D :D s:D   ... for the air-filter-to-wheel-well induction !!!

SteveJ

#21
Quote from: "MikeCoughlin"Note about 2/3 down this article ( m http://www.mr2roc.org/content/articles/essen/essen.php m )

TTE (Team Toyota Europe) copied my "clothes-dryer CAI" idea   s:D :D s:D   ... for the air-filter-to-wheel-well induction !!!

Hmm - or maybe you copied them - the turbo kit that the intake pipe is part of has been under development for nearly 3 years.

Myself and Mark have also got H&S to produce a stainless replacement for the restrictive part fitted as standard (we now have orders for 30+ of these on a recent GB) - this alone should produce better results than clothes-dryer hose, as it won't be producing the turbulence that the ridges in the hose will cause.

SteveJ

#22
Oh - and I forgot to mention - the pipe doesn't exit into the wheel well - there is a fabric tube that goes over the top of the wheel arch, and re-enters the engine bay just behind the battery.

markiii

#23
just to clarify, the pipe is not something H&S sell normally. It's only available due toi teh quantity.

So when do I see some input on teh GB WE'RE organising then ?  :-) :-) :-)
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

SteveJ

#24
Quote from: "markiii"So when do I see some input on the GB WE'RE organising then ?  :-) :-) :-)

You mean the one where for some reason I lost my intake pipe after we removed it and handed it to Ian to use as a pattern (which is why Toyota now have a black '2 minus it's intake pipe) whilst talking to them about the exhaust they had produced for Grant. The resulting prototype which also then mysteriously appeared on your car  s:? :? s:?

Is that the GB you're referring to Mark   s:?: :?: s:?:   s:P :P s:P

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