CAI Options.......just mulling this idea over

Started by Anonymous, March 8, 2004, 19:33

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Anonymous

#50
"street" configuration (long tube) also works as expected, maybe a little better.  No dynos or anything yet, but my calibrated posterior says it performs at least as well as an AEM.

- not as prone to swamping (filter is a few inches higher)
- don't have to remove rear bumper to install it... or change filter
- quieter (I think.. cannot remember well enough to say for sure), which makes sense due to resonator
- and of course you can switch over to the "racing" configuration quite easily

Check out the link in the previous post for more info.  Interesting: someone else making an intake (for forced induction application) came to the same conclusion about pipe diameter and vanes being critical.

I just gave Corky the green light.  The ball is in his court now (to make more, do dynos, whatever).

Anonymous

#51
We are going to improve the street configuration.  It will be better and actually cheaper to make.

However, the design of the racing configuration is set in stone.  A short video of the prototype is available for download on socalspyders.com.  http://www.socalspyders.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=242&start=66

Anonymous

#52
BCH Racing Intakes are now available as a DIY kit on Spyderchat.  Corky (CeeDapp on Spyderchat) is selling the parts he made for me in a group buy and the rest of the parts are up to you.

It is similar to a Pelican Racing design, but better in several ways.  Please read the PDF for more information.  http://home.comcast.net/~kevinbeane/BCH_Racing_Intake.pdf

A dyno will be done soon.

I'm dissappointed but not all that surprised that all 10 of the first offering have not been snatched up.  Some factors that I think contribute to the slow start are:
- no dyno yet
- not cheap (it will cost about $230 USD to put one together, which places it in between an AEM and a PPE in price... closer to an AEM)
- requires some work to put together
- requires Lightweight Battery Box or some other means of relocating stock battery (a good mod in itself)
- not the best time of year to be selling them (getting close to Christmas, some people putting their cars up for the winter)

I think the dyno will show a 4-6HP gain (max) with an improvement from as low as 3000RPM all the way to redline.  What it won't show is the much improved throttle response.  The sound is awesome, too, if I do say so myself.

Anyway, Corky and I put a lot of time, money, and effort into this and I'd like to see him recoup some of his investment.  I'm just doing it for the fun of it, to improve my car (mission accomplished on both of those counts), and to do something for other MR2 Spyder owners.  I would be very pleased if it became a successful product.   I think Corky would be paying himself about a nickel an hour if he sold all 10 of the first batch.

By the way, the best place to reach me is via PM here or on Spyderchat if you have any questions.

===============================================

Spyderchat appears to be down today, perhaps "Closed for the Holidays" or due to power outage (East Coast storms last night).  I'll post this here, then.  I tested an AFE filter today.  Why AFE?  It is very similar to a K&N (oiled) but has better materials.  The end is closed, unlike the kind I have been using (Spectre), which has an inverted cone in the end.  The AFE and K&N probably provide better filtration and will last longer, but cost about 2.5 times more.  I was interested in what difference in the end of the filter would make (they are the same in all dimensions).

Results:
- Sound is quite different.  AFE is quieter and the "growl" or "howl" of the Spectre is missed.  Note: that growl/howl corresponds to acceleration I can feel with the Spectre.  Exhale sound when engine is shut off is much quieter.
- Power vs RPM is not as smooth.  There are some little bumps, but it is hard to tell if they are above or below the level of the Spectre.
- Power does not appear to be as good as the Spectre.  It doesn't seem like the engine is as willing to rev.

I tested with the tube as long as it will go and as short as it will go.  Longer is better with both filters.  I didn't do any G-Tech testing... this was all "driving feel" or "butt dyno", which I have confidence in, since I drive this car every day.

Anonymous

#53
Beanie,

I'm interested in the BCH intake, I just need to know the following:

I want to keep the stock battery, can I relocate it using corky's battery box? I need to keep stock for cold starting ability in Blighty + my wife drives the car daily so I need to have reliability if she leaves phone on charge, stereo on etc. Ideally I'd prefer not to relocate it but I guess it's necessary to fit the intake.

Is it much louder than stock, I do currently have a H&S twin exhaust so unless it's really loud it shouldn't be a problem.

Anonymous

#54
Since you want to keep the stock battery, you could relocate it up front.  Corky makes a special front mounting solution for the lightweight battery that all fits under the spare, but not the stock battery.  I'm going to do a PDF on that fairly soon, actually, just as a favor to him.  He could a mounting solution for the stock battery, I'm sure.  Here's a idea, though.  If you are concerned about the G13EP not having enough starting power, you could go to a larger one.  This would also require a custom mounting solution.  

Loudness: Well, it is louder than stock, but it isn't a sound you are likely to object to.  I'd say it is quieter than an AEM.  Once I get my camcorder mount made I'll make another video or two (top up, top down).  The last one I made had pretty much just wind buffeting noise.  I hear the Team Moon single above the intake, if that gives you an idea.  The sound is quite pleasing to my ears.  There is an exhale sound when you turn the car off, like an AEM but louder because it isn't back there in the bumper.

Anonymous

#55
can you post the instructions on relocating the battery.....i've been able to figure everything out except for relocating the ground....  s:( :( s:(  

kev

Anonymous

#56

This is what I did for the lower mounting position.  This shows a laydown style box but it will work for the other style, too.  I just used a dremel to remove the paint underneath where that terminal is.  The wire came from here I think -->


Anonymous

#57
that's exactly what i ended up doing!  s:) :) s:)   except that with the battery in an upright position things get pretty tight in there (i damn near welded the box to the chassis  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  )

one question though, i didn't bother to sand the surface since i noticed that the stock grounding point is painted as well, please don't tell me i have to yank the cables off again! (see the above mentioned welding event)

kev

Anonymous

#58
The bolt will provide good continuity, but I'd sand the paint later on for a better ground.

BTW, put the positive lead on first with the negative one taped up in case it decides to brush against the neg. post and you'll be less likely to arc somewhere.

Anonymous

#59
Quote from: "Beanie"The bolt will provide good continuity, but I'd sand the paint later on for a better ground.

BTW, put the positive lead on first with the negative one taped up in case it decides to brush against the neg. post and you'll be less likely to arc somewhere.

the battery was already connected, i was trying to hook the threaded rods for the clamp and something touched the positive terminal, now i've got two nice scorch marks, one on the clamp itself and one where the rods hook onto the bottom.....  s:D :D s:D  


after that, i became very weary of having the battery where it is....that great big opening right above it seemd to call out to my tools and my flashlight!!  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  

i've still got to hook up the vacum line, but it's too late to get the hose now, i'll get to it tomorrow........but the first official BCH test drive has been made, i'll post comments after a much needed shower and a bite to eat.......

kev (whoosh)

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