Running engine without Oil

[rabscott2003]

I recently bought an MRS 2001 with 80000 miles on it, i think i made a big mistake today when i broke down, the engine started knocking and then when i pulled up at traffic lights its stopped altogether.

I think the engine partly seezed. I put oil in it as it was lower than low and oil light never came on, the engine didnt overheat as its water cooled. but the engine management came on. I kept driving with it on. So i filled it with oil and jump lead started it and turned over but still knocking checked under the cover and the sparks are in place ok, sounds like the pistons or big head are away just keep knocking on the block loud.

I need advice on what i should do:- 1. Buy a new engine and get Toyota to fit very expensive i imagine.
                                                    2. Buy a second hand engine from a breaker and get a local garage to fit a fair bit cheaper
                                                    3. Recondition the existing engine if someone is an expert in it is there anyone on here which can help?
                                                    4. Reapir somehow?
                                                    5. Can an MR2 work in the MRS? if so its an 1.8vvti dont know the difference between MR2 and MRS?
                                                    6. What would you the expert do in my position?

I would really appreciate help on this situation, i cant believe i was so stupid. I could have probably prevented this.

Thanks for you time reading.

Yours Rab Scott Hawick, Scottish Borders. 07877469893

[Anonymous]

If it's any consolation there is a good chance that you old engine was oval bored,eating oil and on it's way out anyway you probably could have only postponed things.I would definitely go for no2 as long as you can verify the mileage and year of the car its come from with a post 2003 engine being the 1ZZ of choice,I don't see any reason why you can't drop an MR2 engine in there as it is the same engine as the MRS.

[Goeman]

Number 3 has big variables in it. I had a VR6 rebuilt and it wasn't cheap.

The engine is definitely goosed. Probably span a bearing on the big end and damaged the conrod and crank shaft. Best case scenario with that engine would be being able to skim the big end of the conrod and the big end journal. Worst case is you'll need a new crank shaft and set of conrods. You don't know until you take the sump off and look. Like Bryan said. Probably something else wrong with it in the first place.

I'd go for option 2 out of your list.

What about hidden option 7? Drop in a 2ZZ.

[uktotty]

OK before you do any of those, check the condition of the precats.
If they are intact then it may not be oval bore syundrome.
After checking that and assuming your main cat isnt fubar, then I would go with option 2 also.
If you choose option 1 you may as well buy a new car it would be cheaper.

[Wabbitkilla]

oh dear, commiserations, it's never a happy situation.

I would suggest option 2 is your best bet, I wouldn't worry about whether the engine comes from an MR2 or MR-s. But I would factor in gutting the precats (if there's anything left of them) and replacing the maim cat.

Give Olberj a call and see if he has any recomendations of sources or garages. Sjspitz might be able to offer sources too.

Best result would be a lowish mileage engine produced after 2003.

Good luck

[Chris_h]

Tough luck and we feel for you.

If you bought it from a garage and very recent, you may have some options under sale of goods.

Otherwise its source a secondhand engine, or cut your losses and sell as is...

[The Gimp]

Oh dear sounds exactly like the problem I had with my Celica (same engine unfortunately).
As suggested, if you are buying a second hand engine... its best to make sure it has come out of a 2003 onwards car.
Alternatively, on ebay they are selling reconditioned enginers (including fitting) for £900 with warranty ...

Just be careful when buying a second hand engine, could be expensive if it was to happen again.

[roger]

Tough luck and we feel for you.

If you bought it from a garage and very recent, you may have some options under sale of goods.

Otherwise its source a secondhand engine, or cut your losses and sell as is...

Definitely something to do if it was a garage purchase.

Personal purchases are very different, but you never know. The first thing you have to prove in that case is the seller knew of the fault and failed to disclose it, though you might not be home and dry on that. Worth checking all the dash lights come on when you turn ignition on (especially oil and CEL). If they don't somebody's been fiddling with them.

[rabscott2003]

I just got a price 54 plate MR2 engine 48000 miles on it, £850 +vat then i would have to pay for the fitting. I think it is a bit expensive any thoughts?

I got a phone call this morning from a guy on this forum saying that the 2001 engines prduced then before 2003 were slightly faulty anyway with piston rings going lose and dry oil was only a partly fault to what would have happened eventually.

I would imagine any engine before 2003 would be a lot cheaper but should i spend more and get a one like above it is a 1ZZFE and should work. I would let the mechanic know about the precats etc for cleaning anyway.

Does anyone who of cheaper engines 2003 onwards if that is the best to get? and How long would this type of engine take to fit? I have a friend who is a very good mechanic who would do it cheaper than most but just wondered how long it would take to change since it has to come out from underneath.

It was a private sale no garages were involved and i wouldnt trouble the last owners just want to get it fixed as its very much worth it as i plan to keep it till i am old and grey. I am only 29 so hopefully will become a great classic.

Thanks again for your support

Robert Scott

Hawick
Scottish Borders

[The Gimp]

As far as my knowledge goes, the 2003 onwards is the same engine, just without the issues  s:) s:)
My 2000 engine on my Celica only lasted 84k. But this is very common on the pre-2003 models... Big Ends, Small Ends, Pistons, Oil issues, etc.

Tbh, I think that price on the 54 plate engine is reasonable... Bout the same price as a refurbed engine... Just need to get a price on fitting. I had mine fitted by a couple of mates and paid £150 plus oils, coolant, fluids, etc...

[Wabbitkilla]

Sounds like a reasonable price to me.

After 2003 they changed the design of the pistons to avoid the oval bore problems.

[inert2k3]

Sounds like a reasonable price to me.

After 2003 they changed the design of the pistons to avoid the oval bore problems.

I was the mystery user who called in the morning... This is what I was trying to explain about engines that are 2003 onwards

That price seems ok to me

Mohammed   s:D s:D

[rabscott2003]

yeah i think it might be a good price as the breaker is only 18 miles from me and the fact its still in the MR2 which is written off. i could see it before it gets took out.
I might just get it, as i have seen others on ebay similar but there again they are miles away and you never know what your buying sometimes + i dont want the older version oval bored engine as it might do the same again, they might look all clean and silver but you never know. I know they tried the oval bore on Honda super bikes and they did a similar thing and never lasted very long.

But here is my alternatives i found but i will keep searching just incase, if nothing turns up in a week i will get the one from my local breaker.

 m http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-CELICA-MR2 ... arParts_SM m

 m http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-MR2-1-8-VV ... arParts_SM m

 m http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Toyota-MR2-Roadst ... arParts_SM m

 m http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-MR2-CELICA ... arParts_SM m

 m http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-MRS-MR2-EN ... arParts_SM m

 m http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-MR2-1-8-VV ... arParts_SM m

 m http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-AVENSIS-CE ... arParts_SM m

[frogger]

Price looks okay to me. Added bonus if you can see it running in the car up the breakers too!

Regarding the whole list of options, wrote a reply to a similar Q yesterday :   l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=30803&view=unread#p376436 l

Consider the option already mentioned above too - there's one sure fire way to get around the risk of future 1ZZ failures - ditch the cruddy 1ZZ altogether  s:P s:P  lol

[ChrisGB]

Personally, I would rather go with a used 2003 onward engine than a recon. Trouble with recons is that they are of variable quality and may or may not work well or last long.

As for fitting a 2zz, that involves a lot of extra work and some parts, wiring ect and also needs the matching gearbox to make the most of it. Main problem with 2zz is finding a good one. They seem to be rarer than rocking horse shit at the moment.

Chris

[frogger]

Maybe another option instead, v6? or I've got 3S-GTE here going spare?   s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:  lol

But yes, as in the post i've linked to above - expect extra work if moving away from the 1ZZ! (I'm sure it would be worth it though).

[rabscott2003]

how much we talking and how much extra work?

[ChrisGB]

how much we talking and how much extra work?

Realistically, you would be looking at £4500 to do either properly and effectively. 2zz is less work, but you need to fit a half decent exhaust manifold and system to allow it to rev out properly. 1mz means cutting into the chassis rails and again, free flowing exhaust.

Realistically, finding a 2zz in good order is going to be a luck of the draw thing, I have been looking for months and have only been messed about by the salvage trade.

Chris

[rabscott2003]

ill just go with my local supplier, its a safer bet and probably with less hassle and the cheapest option.

[rabscott2003]

I got another price £895 delivered fully reconditioned engine originally from 2006 celica. engine has been dissassembled; new bearings and crankshaft fitted, new head gasket, recon cylinder head new piston rings and honed block. 27000miles on it the guy said. 1zzfe engine.

here are the pictures of this engine







Now i know it sounds good, but how can i actually know if it is a 2006 and with 27000miles on it? The guy said he sends engines in a metal container customised for the engine, and a 6 month warranty comes with every one, also i asked him why he would change an engine crank shaft etc when the engine has only done 27000miles and is only 4 years old, he said to be sure that we dont get a problem and that warranty would last. And the fact that when they import the engines from japan they dont know exactly how much mileage they have on them as odometers can be faked.
Saying that he said i could view it if i wanted before i buy. There company is called Idealengines from Barking London. So they seem to know what they are talking about.

I dont know whether to go with this one rather than the 2004 from a mr2 in the scrap yard which has 47000miles on it for £100 more.

[rabscott2003]

Does anyone know if this could be a reconditioned 2000 model and not a 2004 which they say it is? I see there is a model code on it could i find out what kind it is as i dont want a oval bored engine.

The thing is i know the MR2 in the local breakers is a 2004, I am in 2 minds..................

[rabscott2003]

Just had a phone call from a company in Yorkshire Full engine swap including alternator, starter etc full service warranty 3 months, they specialise in engine swaps its a 2006 mr2 23000miles from the UK they are a breakers so the car has had an front end smash, they do however have to keep my old engine and alternator etc here is the link  m http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... TQ:GB:1123 m

Now i have 4 options what do i do...................?

[Anonymous]

Haggle with the breakers,be tough with them and offer them £200 less than they want and see where you end up.

[K T M Rider]

i dont want the older version oval bored engine as it might do the same again, they might look all clean and silver but you never know. I know they tried the oval bore on Honda super bikes and they did a similar thing and never lasted very long.

sorry to hear about your engine woes and hope  you get it sorted without too much hassle. My 2000 W car seems to drink oil a bit. Just to clarify, the older 1ZZ engine never left the factory with oval bores (we hope) it is a problem that can develop, whereas the Honda NR750 to which I assume you refer left the factory with oval pistons (like tins of spam) and 8 valves per cylinder, so a bit of a difference!

[rabscott2003]

I have put a deposit down on a yorkshire firm who is going to give me a 2006 23000miles engine including alternator, starter all parts from the 2006 and do a straight swap, all for £1195 they are going to clean all cats and do a service on the car including warranty. Now i hope the AA can uplift it for me. Also in the deal for an extra £50 they can swap the wiper linkage arms and blades which on mine are a bit old and loose, and the electric aerial.

So it looks like i could be up and running in no time. I am going to do a report for this and ask the garage to take pictures throughout the change over.

Hopefully with this recommendation others can do what i am doing and have a car that should last me a long long time.