Brake noise - possible shim?

[MR2k]

To update - the clunk WAS caused by a slightly poor quality (in terms of size control) Mintex pad, just a little bit too small so it shifts about just a tiny bit in the caliper. Now have a new set of pads - No Noise.   s:D s:D

Apologies for bumping this old thread, but did you replace the Mintex pads with EBC yellows or something else?

Cheers,

[p3t3]

I bought a full new disk and mintex pad set for mine and they refused to send the rear mintex pads as they was a recall on a batch due to them not fitting properly!

[frogger]

I replaced the fronts with genuine toyota pads.
Found a reasonably priced set on ebay for 30ish quid I think.

[nimrod]

Same problem,light braking at slow speed noise appeared last Saturday,taking to a mechanic Friday,I will let you know the outcome,over speed humps,high speed braking and cornering everything is quite just at slow speed coming to a stop.

[MR2k]

I replaced the fronts with genuine toyota pads.
Found a reasonably priced set on ebay for 30ish quid I think.

Ok cheers, I'll keep an eye out. Any ideas if the EBCs would be a better fit? (Although it sounds like you don't have a good experience with them?)

Same problem,light braking at slow speed noise appeared last Saturday,taking to a mechanic Friday,I will let you know the outcome,over speed humps,high speed braking and cornering everything is quite just at slow speed coming to a stop.

Yeah been checking out your thread, let us know how you get on.

Incidently I'm taking the MR2 to the garage tomorrow since the rear brakes are sticking, I'll see if I can get their opinion on the front clicking brakes too.

[frogger]

Can't say either way with EBC's. Many on here use the yellowstuff without issue (but then many use Mintex without issue too! All depends on the size control off the production line I guess).  My past poor experiences with EBC has more been with their discs (warping).

Careful the garage don't fob you off with useless temporary solutions with regards to your rear brakes. If they're seizing there is no point paying a garage to 'free them off' as many seem to like to do - you'll soon find the problem reoccurs. Plenty of info on here about calipers, but in summary, a proper overhaul or recon unit(s) will be required.

[Steve Green]

Careful the garage don't fob you off with useless temporary solutions with regards to your rear brakes. If they're seizing there is no point paying a garage to 'free them off' as many seem to like to do - you'll soon find the problem reoccurs. Plenty of info on here about calipers, but in summary, a proper overhaul or recon unit(s) will be required.

+1
the average garage mechanic has never taken a set of rear calipers apart or understand how the autoadjusters really work. Consequently they mis diagnose the problems.
There are a few around, who do know their stuff. It's just that the unwary owner has to find them.

[MR2k]

Careful the garage don't fob you off with useless temporary solutions with regards to your rear brakes. If they're seizing there is no point paying a garage to 'free them off' as many seem to like to do - you'll soon find the problem reoccurs. Plenty of info on here about calipers, but in summary, a proper overhaul or recon unit(s) will be required.

I'll ask them what they plan to do with the brakes - what would they do if they just "free them off" (asides from liberal application of WD40   s:scared: :scared: s:scared:  )

[aaronjb]

If they "free them off" that'll probably include belting the piston back in with a crowbar/clamp and then yanking the slider pins around until the move again, then slapping it all back together..

Rather than a proper freeing off that would see the slider pins & boots come out, cleaned off, gunk removed, emery if necessary, greased and put back together  s:) s:)

[MR2k]

If they "free them off" that'll probably include belting the piston back in with a crowbar/clamp and then yanking the slider pins around until the move again, then slapping it all back together..

Rather than a proper freeing off that would see the slider pins & boots come out, cleaned off, gunk removed, emery if necessary, greased and put back together  s:) s:)

Cheers for the info.

Speaking to the mechanic it sounds like they did a reasonable job (removing slider pins and so on - the pins where fine but the inside of the caliper was corroded causing them the seize), new pads have been put on too (as expected - there didn't appear to be any friction material left on the pads when I dropped it off), and the car rolls more freely compared with before (when it felt like the handbrake was being very slightly applied).

Thing is when pulling up after a 20 miles journey the rear brake discs were very hot compared with the warm fronts, in particular the NSR which was the one that got really hot before. Is this just the new pads bedding in or have my rear brakes (or handbrake?) still got problems?  s:roll: :roll: s:roll:

[frogger]

Rear brakes still have problems. No way the rears should EVER be 'very hot compared with the fronts'.

Any 'freeing off' (including that just carried out) is very dubious in my opinion, and often misses the point entirely too in terms of fixing the root cause.

Even IF they took the time and care to clean the sliders well - Corrosion doesn't occur without a reason. So unless they replaced whatever damaged seals allowed the corrosion, you will have the same issue soon enough.  Plus there may well be other issues that remain unfixed, handbrake mech issues, piston seizure issues, etc...

[mrzwei]

Rear brakes still have problems. No way the rears should EVER be 'very hot compared with the fronts'.

Any 'freeing off' (including that just carried out) is very dubious in my opinion, and often misses the point entirely too in terms of fixing the root cause.

Even IF they took the time and care to clean the sliders well - Corrosion doesn't occur without a reason. So unless they replaced whatever damaged seals allowed the corrosion, you will have the same issue soon enough.  Plus there may well be other issues that remain unfixed, handbrake mech issues, piston seizure issues, etc...

+1       That caliper is sticking on or the handbrake is causing it to. The only other reason for heat that I can think of would be a knackered wheel bearing but you should be able to feel / hear that.

If you jack it up and compare the wheel spin you should be able to get a more accurate idea, do it after a run.

[frogger]

If you're jacking it up, see where the handbrake cam is sitting with the handbrake off, see what the cam is doing on each side as you apply the handbrake, and at the same time what effect applying is having on the wheels ability to move

[Steve Green]

If you can, I would suggest disconnecting the handbrake cables from both the calipers.

You can then check free movement of each cable, making sure they are not seized (unlikely).
At the same time you can manually operate the caliper crank to ensure that both work evenly.

When the cables are attached and properly adjusted, each caliper crank should be finally held 1mm or so off of its stop pin.


If you still have one rear caliper overheating, it is more than likely seized or stuck sliders that are causing the problem.

If a hub/disc gets too hot it can effectively melt and degrade the bearing grease, significantly shortening the service like of the bearings.

[MR2k]

*Sigh*   s:( s:(  

Again highly appreciate the advice on here. It's definitely the disc/friction area getting hot.

I'll try jacking the car up this afternoon and seeing what I can do, but suspect most of this is simply beyond me.

Saw this thread a few days ago, I'll try to follow it  l viewtopic.php?f=47&t=33557 l

[Fizzy]

I've sorted calipers out a few times on previous mk2s.  Didn't do home rebuilds though - instead got refurbed calipers from brakes international which came with new rubber bracket seals and some grease too.   A lot easier and quicker to do a swap out, and not too bad price wise compared to a refurb kit - although there is a surcharge which is refunded when you send your old caliper to them.

Just need to make sure the pins are clean and greased when putting the new caliper on.   s:) s:)

[dkirkwood89]

Just been doing a search on here as I have found I have the same noise - i.e. a large clunk or prang when braking to a stop at any speed.

nimrod - would be interested to know how you got on

My wife drives it everyday as she is only 5 minutes drive from work and I am 45 minute drive so she's to keep an eye on it over the next few days and let me know if it is still happening. Seems like I'll just be replacing my brake pads. It just went through it's MOT at the end of august, but I suppose everything has to break at some point

What is the opinion on the YellowStuff pads then? I'll probably either go for them or OEM ones again as they're not too bad

Thanks in advance
Dale

[dkirkwood89]

Just been doing a search on here as I have found I have the same noise - i.e. a large clunk or prang when braking to a stop at any speed.

nimrod - would be interested to know how you got on

My wife drives it everyday as she is only 5 minutes drive from work and I am 45 minute drive so she's to keep an eye on it over the next few days and let me know if it is still happening. Seems like I'll just be replacing my brake pads. It just went through it's MOT at the end of august, but I suppose everything has to break at some point

What is the opinion on the YellowStuff pads then? I'll probably either go for them or OEM ones again as they're not too bad

Thanks in advance
Dale