I need some help on what to buy o2 sensors etc

[Wabbitkilla]

That manifold  m http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... _779wt_905 m  doesn't have the lower bracing points. Best to find one with those to attach to the bottom brackets on the engine or it's likely to crack. I don't like the look of the narrow pipework on those catalysts either ... a second hand one from another member would likely be better.

Sorry about appearing negative, but i would rather you got fair advice than just plumb ahead and get something sub-standard.

This one is used by many and is proven reliable with the lower mounts in place;
 m http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/00-07-Toyota-MR2- ... 2170wt_911 m
But get the proper Toyota gaskets for it.
If your precats weave is looking degraded in any way then it's time to be rid of them, they may even be dropping apart at the trailing edge. I've also heard of two main cats recently that had collapsed and were breaking apart.

You've been offered a Toyota Catalyst in this thread, may I suggest you discuss terms with the chap?

Like I sead just before, if there's nothing wrong with your back box then why change it, but admittedly the Blueflame will be noisier   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[rabscott2003]

he was offering a back box not a cat.

[Wabbitkilla]

I have spare cats, sensors, manifolds etc, but seeing as I don't know where you are I don't see how I can help you   s:? :? s:?

Thought Peter had offered one sorry, otherwise it appears you may be stuck with the ebay ones.
At least with a new cat you know it's not going to have possible contamination like the ones you can get from breakers   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[Peter Wright]

I have spare cats, sensors, manifolds etc, but seeing as I don't know where you are I don't see how I can help you   s:? :? s:?

Thought Peter had offered one sorry,

Yes I have 2 spare JDM cats

The problem as I see it, is that you need to take the whole system off including the manifold and 02s, de cat the manifold and clean it out completely, put the manifold back then the 02s which are probably OK, then put a new cat in and use the old back box
You can have one of my cats for £50.00 + postage
Then as I see it you should be ok, after you have reset the ECU
Does this seem OK to everyone ?
Pete

[uktotty]

Sounds fine to me and at £400 for a new cat its a good price too!!
No reason to use an after market manifold if you gut the original one

[Wabbitkilla]

I wasn't going mad   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  

Sounds like a good option to me

[rabscott2003]

Got my engine light sorted i took the convertor off the back of the clock cluster and put it back to oringinal factory wiring. So theres no problem with the engine.

I looked underneath today and saw that the cat from the 4-2 manifold 2-1 cat is needing replaced and the back box has some rust but the tail pipes are gone too.

So i need 1 manifold stainless, 1 good cat or new, 1 back box and tail pipe stainless and all the fittings and gaskets to go with it all. I am wanting to replace the whole lot with new but if a second hand cat will do which is in very good condition that would do. As for the o2 sensors there are 2 only into the main manifold as its an import mrs just 2 not 3 or 4 only 2. 4 wire ones too probably the ones which was on the car when it came out the factory.

Peter how good are your cats for £50 any rust or damage?

07877469893

[rabscott2003]

no engine light still came back on, i checked the maf sensor it seems fine and there is a new air filter in.

The problem is when the engine is cold its like a 2 stroke strimmer when you put the foot down it cuts back, and even a lot when its warm. Its exactly like a strimmer to think about it, its not burning oil though and the oil in the engine is  very clean and just past the full mark on the stick.

I think its time to start buying parts now as i said before. Ill take the cat Peter saves me buying a £268 cat from my local supplier mind its new. How old is yours? Condidtion?

Thanks

[Mad Matt]

Perhaps some of the earlier applies were a little err abrupt. However, they've got a point, or at least there's something I don't understand.

You've bought a "new" engine and it's thrown a light and is obviously not running well, why aren't you taking it back to the garage and getting them to fix their work?

[rabscott2003]

cause the garage is 200 miles away and i were told they were good, the engine is running smooth but i think its the other parts which are not as it was like this before the new engine was put in ie the cats o2 sensors etc.
If i replace these i think i should solve the problem, as i plan to put in the new o2 sensors and exhausts etc by next week, and i if there is still a problem i will take it back as it has 3 months warrenty on it. I got a code from the engine light too, with the paperclip trick code 39 it was so i will check to see what it is.

[frogger]

You have a code 3 and a code 9, not code 39.   s8) s8)  

Code 3 is essentially the MAF, which entirely explains the throttle problems your describing.
Code 9 is the speed signal wire, which is because of that mess of wiring used to 'convert' the speedo/speedlimiter by a previous owner (ref our previous discussions about the speedo in another thread) which you've now removed to some extent I gather.

Code 39 is a fuel temp sensor circuit malfunction, which just aint gona be the problem. Not when codes 3 and 9 explain everything.

To solve code 3 you can try to clean the MAF (search on here), or replacing it if that doesn't do the trick.

To solve code 9 you'll need to work on getting the wiring perfect again, though the UK clocks on a JDM ECU confuses this issue.

[rabscott2003]

And thats why i am going to buy this convertor which is seen here  m http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT m

And as for the MAF i pulled it out from the top of the air filter and saw it was brown in colour as it looks like a mini thermometer but dont know if its supposed to be that colour, might replace that.

And therefore once i replace all the exhaust system striaght from the Manifold it should be totally bullet proof touch wood.

The only thing i need now is to ask someone about fitting certain stainless steel back boxes with toyota cats and stainless steel manifolds. then i am sorted.

Then next year i plan to respray a door, oven bake the lights, waxoil underneath, re powder coat the wheels and upgrade the brakes, Put new dust covers on the suspension and repair the electric arieal which is no problem.

Let me know if the convertor will sort my troubles.

Thanks again

[rabscott2003]

That ebay ad was the wrong one it was this one sorry  m http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-SPEEDO-CON ... 0891562372 m

hope its a 4 wire one

[frogger]

That ones the right one (for a Jap import with Jap clocks at least   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  ).
As their auction states - make sure you tell them you're buying for a Toyota MR-S when purchasing, just to make sure.

I'm still unsure of the role the clocks themselves play in the system with regards to processing of the speed signal.
Maybe they only provide a readout and perform no processing, in which case connecting it up with or without the convertor should remove fault codes.

Connecting it up with the convertor will sort out the speed limiter issue, but I'm not convinced it'll give the right readout on UK clocks. But I'm guessing. I think you have little choice but to give it a go really! (unless you have working jap clocks to use of course).

[rabscott2003]

Yeah and i am not buying new ones, I would just put a sticker over the uk clocks and put kph back on lol

[rabscott2003]

Saying that unless anyone wants to swap UK clocks for KPH clocks which i would do to save the hassel as i dont mind KPH as i am used to it.

[Mad Matt]

Perhaps I've read your post incorrectly but the MAF part you descrivbe as brown is indeed a thermometer. While cleaning that may help it's the inside which needs cleaning to get it to work well. There's a picture guide link in one of the threads here which shows it quite well.

To quote aaronjb:

"There is a lot of confusion about which bit you're cleaning when you clean the MAF.. In fact, I doubt you could reach the actual MAF element with a cloth.

As you look at the sensor removed from the housing, the small bulbous (usually black until you clean it) bit on the right or left hand side is a thermistor to measure intake air temperature - that's the IAT sensor, NOT the MAF (ok, it's part of the MAF, but let's not confuse things?)

The air flow sensor itself is up inside the tube part of the MAF - you can only barely see it, it's a small wire coil filament (much like the one you'd see in a light bulb) less than 1cm long and a few mm in diameter. Virtually impossible to see and the best way to clean it is just to spray fuel injector cleaner (not carb cleaner unless it says fuel injection safe) up inside the tube part of the MAF. DO NOT touch the element, even if you can reach a cotton bud to it - you'll break it.

The thermistor is much more robust, but even so it just needs a blast of cleaner to bring it up again (it'll turn translucent like amber from memory)."

[rabscott2003]

I need O2 sensors for my imported toyota MRS and i think it only has 2 o2 sensors into the manifold.

Which ones do i need this  m http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT m

or this  m http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT m

[Mad Matt]

I would have thought the front ones. I also thought that the only difference was that the post-cat one has a longer cable.