Rear drivers side brake/caliper sticking

[frogger]

Washers - nope, wasn't included in the kit.

In which case, make sure there's no microleaks from the area where the brake line bolts to the caliper. This would make pedal spongey too.
Happened when I had to reuse once, used a different couple of [2nd hand] washers and all was fine again.

[BOGEYMAN]

THERES A FAULT ON THE REAR BRAKES, THE WIND IN CALIPER PISTON STICKS AND WILL NOT RETURN THUS VERY HOT WHEELS, A NEW CALIPER IS NORMALLY THE REMEDY. MY CAR HAD THE SAME PROBLEM.

[Toplesscouple]

Is the sticking piston mechanism because of lack of maintenance? I mean could it be caused by ignoring the recommended brake fluid changes and moisture contamination seizing the parts. I have rarely changed the brake fluid on any of my vehicles   s:oops: :oops: s:oops:

[frogger]

THERES A FAULT ON THE REAR BRAKES, THE WIND IN CALIPER PISTON STICKS AND WILL NOT RETURN THUS VERY HOT WHEELS, A NEW CALIPER IS NORMALLY THE REMEDY. MY CAR HAD THE SAME PROBLEM.

As we seem to be repeating statements, allow me to reiterate...

If by 'THERES A FAULT ON THE REAR BRAKES' you mean that this problem is known to occur on MR2's and other toyota's then I agree with you.
(As stated originally when you first made this remark - You are 100% correct when you say this is a fault with most rear toyota rear calipers - rubber has a finite lifespan and when it goes, corrosion grows.)

However - It is NOT a mechanical fault within the caliper, and as mentioned when you stated this same thing last year - a new caliper is NOT normally the remedy. I have yet to meet any caliper that cannot be refurbished. Including many 20~25 year old ones that have been seized for a fair while previously.

I do not know of anyone who has gone to the extravagence of an entirely new caliper to sort this issue on an MR2, so to say a new caliper is 'normally the remedy' is incorrect and entirely misleading!

As mentioned previously :

Practically every 'new' caliper on the market is just an old one thats been refurbed with new seals and new pistons (and sometimes replacement handbrake mechanism components)... buying a 'new' one (i.e. a recon from brakes international/toyota/motor factors) is not any different to doing it yourself.
Other than you have to put the effort in instead of someone else of course, and trust your own workmanship rather than someone elses.

The one thing that always stays great are the internals, its all just seals and occasionally piston corrosion and/or surface corrosion around the piston dust boot 'lip'.

To awnser the new Q...

Is the sticking piston mechanism because of lack of maintenance? I mean could it be caused by ignoring the recommended brake fluid changes and moisture contamination seizing the parts. I have rarely changed the brake fluid on any of my vehicles  s:oops: :oops: s:oops:

The seizure IS typically caused by moisture corrosion yes, but NOT internally - always from the outside in - i.e. due to a knackered boot on the piston or slider.
Therefore, ignoring fluid change intervals is not a typical cause of this failure mode.
Ignoring the fluid change intervals will result in reduced braking performance though, so get 'em bled if you know you're overdue   s:) s:)

[Toplesscouple]

Cheers Frogger,   s:) s:)  

Just ordered a rewind tool from Amazon at virtually half the cost of Halfords for the same Laser tool. Therefore I'll ensure seals look good before pushing the pistons back. Also the excellent pictorial explanations of front and rear pad replacement seem to show a uncleaned piston being reset. I thought you should always carefully pump out each pistons a few mm and clean them up first.

As an aside, my handbrake has always been high and not very good at holding the car on any sort of incline, however after a more spirited drive on Sunday where I used the brakes more agressively, and also letting a bodybuilder type guy have a go in it who pulled it on really high, my lever is now only coming halfway and holding, on a gentle incline at least   s:D s:D

[frogger]

Whilst it wouldn't hurt to give that area a clean (so long as you don't breach the handbrake reset rule set out in the next paragraph), I've never seen it as being a problem and I've never really worried too much about cleaning minor grime from the face of the piston (i.e. the area which contacts directly with the pad back), and I certainly wouldn't worry about cleaning any other part of the piston (i.e. rolling back the dust boot to clean up anything), if the boot is in good condition with red rubber grease underneath then there's no worries. I do tend to put a smearing of copaslip on the pad backs though.

On the topic of the handbrake, the issue your describing can often be solved (on MR2's of all ages) by performing an extra step that is NOT included in the rear brake write up on this forum... Essentially once you've wound the piston all the way back in, wind it back out again by about 180-ish degree's  s8) s8)

Here's some discussion on the matter:  l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=30655 l
It's true that you can get suitable handbrake performance without this step - but doing this step is the only way to ensure a good handbrake first time everytime.

[BOGEYMAN]

Dear All
I have read this topic with great interest and while most of what is said is correct I cannot quite understand why anyone accept a trained mechanic would want to mess about with the biggest safety issue on any car especially an MR2 since these cars are not likely to be driven by nuns. Advice from me is get it into a garage and have them repaired professionally useing the correct specified part.
The next time your hitting a corner to fast think about how and who as fixed your brakes.

[Anonymous]

I smell a troll or is it a bogeyman.  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

[frogger]

My thoughts exactly   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  

I think the concern bogeyman's expressing could be slapped onto any DIY mechanical thread on this forum.
Essentially, If you are not sure what your doing or how it works, don't faff around with it!

Advice from me is get it into a garage and have them repaired professionally useing the correct specified part.

To clarify to others reading this thread - All parts used were "the correct specified parts", and all work undertaken is exactly the same as would be performed by a garage charging £50~£100/hr (Yes - even the angle grinding! Though there is an alternative to this in replacing the perfectly servicable internals). Though most garages would go for the easier, but more expensive option, of purchasing the recon unit as a whole.

The next time your hitting a corner to fast think about how and who as fixed your brakes.

The next time you hit a corner too fast, I suggest not slamming on your brakes mid corner   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  
However, if you have to slam on your brakes in another situation - the knowledge of how YOU fixed your brakes, and to what standard, will provide much reassurance!

If you want to use a garage then go for it - There are a lot of very competent garages around who are of course more than capable of performing this job.
Fact is if you used a garage they would probably order a recon unit from budweg, or budweg via unipart - so you'll get a good caliper.

We are all human though, and if a garage can do it, a mechanically minded person using the correct parts and following the correct procedures probably can too   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[K T M Rider]

Dear All
I cannot quite understand why anyone accept a trained mechanic..............  Advice from me is get it into a garage and have them repaired professionally useing the correct specified part.
The next time your hitting a corner to fast think about how and who as fixed your brakes.

Call me an over-educated prejudiced snob, but my advice to unknown (sub 10 post) advice givers would be, the likelihood of your advice being given serious consideration may prove to be inversely proportional to the number of grammatical and spelling errors contained therein.   s:) s:)

I exclusively maintained the brakes (and almost all other items) on my motorcycles for twenty years and I was indeed instilled with confidence while riding that I knew precisely who and under what circumstances had done the job -  i.e. as many hours as I wished in my own garage by me compared with an unknown (and often time -poor / pressured) mechanic.

The only bike of mine that spent any time in a dealer workshop was there for an under -warranty gearbox repair. Two months of dealer time later after the 35 mile ride home I discovered they had not retensioned the drive - chain. Needless to say this could easily have come off either sprocket, jammed and then spat me off the bike. Fortunately it being the depths of winter and just getting used to the bike again after a two month wait I had been riding relatively sensibly - but could have been very different on a summer day   s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:

So yes, I think the general advice would be do think very carefully about who does the maintenance on your vehicles   s:) s:)

[Anonymous]

Dear All
I have read this topic with great interest and while most of what is said is correct I cannot quite understand why anyone accept a trained mechanic would want to mess about with the biggest safety issue on any car especially an MR2 since these cars are not likely to be driven by nuns. Advice from me is get it into a garage and have them repaired professionally useing the correct specified part.
The next time your hitting a corner to fast think about how and who as fixed your brakes.

Exactly the words of wisdom i would expect from an entity designed for scaring small children.  s:roll: :roll: s:roll:

[mrzwei]

The next time your hitting a corner to fast think about how and who as fixed your brakes.

I have to agree here. Last time Toyota did a wheel swop to get the alloys refurbished under warranty, they managed to fit a rear on the front and a front on the rear. I ask myself sometimes why I bothered to check the work of a professional   s:D s:D  .

[K T M Rider]

I have to agree here. Last time Toyota did a wheel swop to get the alloys refurbished under warranty, they managed to fit a rear on the front and a front on the rear. I ask myself sometimes why I bothered to check the work of a professional   s:D s:D  .

I'm not certain it was your judgement to make what constituted a 'front' or 'rear' wheel.

Surely the trained mechanic would have used the correct specified part?   s:P s:P

[mrzwei]

Just edited that because I missed you meaning first time 'round   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

[BOGEYMAN]

Don't know where you've got that from!?

Every 'new' caliper on the market is just an old one thats been refurbed with new seals and new pistons (and sometimes replacement handbrake mechanism components)... buying a 'new' one (i.e. a recon from brakes international/toyota/motor factors) is not any different to doing it yourself.
Other than you have to put the effort in instead of someone else of course, and trust your own workmanship rather than someone elses.

You are 100% correct when you say this is a fault with most rear toyota rear calipers - rubber has a finite lifespan and when it goes corrosion grows.
BUT - I have yet to meet one that cannot be refurbished. Including many 20~25 year old ones that have been seized for a fair while previously.

The one thing that always stays great are the internals, its all just seals and occasionally piston corrosion and/or surface corrosion around the piston dust boot 'lip'.

Dear frogger dont recall telling anyone to buy a refurb caliper, mine was a genuine Toyota part ( I put some value on my life ) I shudder to think that I may buy another MR2 for my son not knowing some that some spanner as being grinding away at the brakes. Good advice frogger but this is not a DIY job.  s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes:

[mrzwei]

this is not a DIY job.  s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes:

I would agree, with the caveat 'unless you know what you are doing'. The 'technology' if that's the right word, is really very simple and has been around since almost the beginning of cars. Rocket science it aint.
In my youth with only enough dosh for the beer, it was diy or no wheels   s:D s:D  .
If you buy your son an MR2 you will never know wherther or not 'some spanner' has been messing around with the brakes, just make sure it has a kosher MOT.

[kentsmudger]

Good advice frogger but this is not a DIY job.  s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes:

Just because you are not able to do this, does not mean that it cannot be done - These 'trained mechanics' are mere mortal men too, and equally able to work to a standard well below total perfection.

Toyota's own mechanics have worked on my car several times and last time it was in they left both headlights totally disconnected, while issuing an MOT pass.  s:shock: :shock: s:shock:  and certified my interior lights as fully working on the same service, when they have not worked in 3 years. They had to remove the fuel tank to replace a handbrake cable and left several spare screws in the luggage compartment, the correct positions for which I have yet to ascertain.

I could have made these mistakes myself for much less financial outlay. Do not knock one man's ability, and laud others that you know nothing about either - The only person whose skills you can assess is your own.

[frogger]

Well aware of what you previously said bogeyman.
It seems you deem only brand new entire calipers suitable... I guess the entire caliper refurbishment industry is a liability.

Who knew eh? But I guess I've been schooled now. Ta  s:) s:)

We have a huge problem, I fear that 99% of mk1 mr2's may have had caliper refurbs, and a huge proportion of mk2 and mk3's to boot.

Sure they've been running fine until now, some for 20+ yrs - but your insight has me very worried that there's thousands of ticking time bombs out there.

I've put my mk1 and mk3 into quarantine immediately, and tried to alert ROSPA... But they just called me a spanner too and hung up.  s:( s:(

[K T M Rider]

this is not a DIY job.  s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes:

I have two Haynes manuals to hand both of which consider that  overhaul of brake calipers is 'suitable for a competent DIY mechanic'.
 
As their influence on car DIY is somewhat bigger than this forum  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  , perhaps you should ask them how they arrived at this?

I should probably point out though, that their highest difficulty rating (which is also signified by five spanners as it happens) is:

'suitable for expert DIY or professional'

[BOGEYMAN]

THERES A FAULT ON THE REAR BRAKES, THE WIND IN CALIPER PISTON STICKS AND WILL NOT RETURN THUS VERY HOT WHEELS, A NEW CALIPER IS NORMALLY THE REMEDY. MY CAR HAD THE SAME PROBLEM.

As we seem to be repeating statements, allow me to reiterate...

If by 'THERES A FAULT ON THE REAR BRAKES' you mean that this problem is known to occur on MR2's and other toyota's then I agree with you.
(As stated originally when you first made this remark - You are 100% correct when you say this is a fault with most rear toyota rear calipers - rubber has a finite lifespan and when it goes, corrosion grows.)

However - It is NOT a mechanical fault within the caliper, and as mentioned when you stated this same thing last year - a new caliper is NOT normally the remedy. I have yet to meet any caliper that cannot be refurbished. Including many 20~25 year old ones that have been seized for a fair while previously.

I do not know of anyone who has gone to the extravagence of an entirely new caliper to sort this issue on an MR2, so to say a new caliper is 'normally the remedy' is incorrect and entirely misleading!
Frogger I dont think we will ever agree on this subject about diy brake repairs so i.ll agree to disagree. by the way your advise was accurate regarding the repair.

As mentioned previously :

Practically every 'new' caliper on the market is just an old one thats been refurbed with new seals and new pistons (and sometimes replacement handbrake mechanism components)... buying a 'new' one (i.e. a recon from brakes international/toyota/motor factors) is not any different to doing it yourself.
Other than you have to put the effort in instead of someone else of course, and trust your own workmanship rather than someone elses.

The one thing that always stays great are the internals, its all just seals and occasionally piston corrosion and/or surface corrosion around the piston dust boot 'lip'.

To awnser the new Q...

Is the sticking piston mechanism because of lack of maintenance? I mean could it be caused by ignoring the recommended brake fluid changes and moisture contamination seizing the parts. I have rarely changed the brake fluid on any of my vehicles  s:oops: :oops: s:oops:

The seizure IS typically caused by moisture corrosion yes, but NOT internally - always from the outside in - i.e. due to a knackered boot on the piston or slider.
Therefore, ignoring fluid change intervals is not a typical cause of this failure mode.
Ignoring the fluid change intervals will result in reduced braking performance though, so get 'em bled if you know you're overdue   s:) s:)