squeaky clutch pedal assembley

Started by nimrod, November 24, 2011, 13:16

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

nimrod

I know there are plenty of threads on this subject but no cure apart from turning the stereo up,about a month ago I greased the bits that moved and used WD 40 and that fixed it but now the squeak is coming back,has anyone found a way to stop the noise or should I try to live with it.this weekend I will get myself in an awkward position again and have another go.  s:roll: :roll: s:roll:

Anonymous

#1
WD40 evaporates off leaving metal against metal. Ive had some success with spray grease, the type used for bike chains.

AmeR

#2
Quote from: "dick2ski"WD40 evaporates off leaving metal against metal. Ive had some success with spray grease, the type used for bike chains.

+1
I really must get under there and grease it up again!!

nimrod

#3
It's good to know that the noise at the clutch pedal seems to be a common problem.

nathanMR2

#4
When we had my gearbox and clutch out mine it was regreased and it lasted all of 2 months  s:( :( s:(
MR2 Roadster TTE Turbo - now sold and 2less but forever an enthusiast

Chris H

#5
There's only one solution......get an SMT......  s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:

stargazer30

#6
mine started squeeking and i suspect its some other bit of the pedal assembly other than the obvious moving parts springs.  Once I nail the little squeeker I'll post where it was. It really winds me up too.

One of my RCA leads is breaking down and giving a nasty alternator whine too so currently I have a MR2 that sounds very wrong!
2003 Silver MR2 - Very Very Standard + Leccy Renault Zoe aka the battery mobile.
Ex Blue 04 MR2 - TTE Turbo\'d ~185bhp/200lbs/ft, Sports Clutch, Breast Plate, Lowered & half decent audio
Ex Silver 05 MR2 -  SP turbo conversion 227bhp, 205lbs/ft, with  cobra dual exit exhaust.

nimrod

#7
It winds me up too,having a look this weekend, I am going to buy some spray grease and give it a good going over I might try a bit of duck tape around the spring not to tight though,I will let you know if I manage to pin point the squeak,hope your problem is an easy fix and not to expensive.

nathanMR2

#8
You cant usually get to the sweaky bit without removing the gearbox as far as im aware  s:( :( s:(

If you do start spraying grease in places be careful not to get any in or on the clutch plate   s:| :| s:|
MR2 Roadster TTE Turbo - now sold and 2less but forever an enthusiast

Anonymous

#9
Hi Nathan, you think the squeak is coming from the thrust bearing lever pivot? If anyone is changing the clutch it would be a great time to put a good blob of coppaslip on the pivot pin.  s:) :) s:)

nathanMR2

#10
Yeah im pretty sure thats what matt regreased when we had the box out. It solved it straight away but it came back in a few months  s:( :( s:(
MR2 Roadster TTE Turbo - now sold and 2less but forever an enthusiast

spit

#11
V True. The fix doesn't last. You just need to treat it as part of the character of the '2   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  

Oddly, we have many squeak-free members on here too. Temporary fixes aside, it seems there is no physical rationale for why it does or it doesn't.
1999 MR-S with added C2 POWΣR

Humbled recipient of the Perry Byrnes memorial trophy (2007 & 2011)

inert2k3

#12
I have a squeak and I hate it... will have to get it fixed when it comes around to changing the clutch/gearbox
02 MR2 Roadster]
Wanted]
Coming soon]

Anonymous

#13
Hmm.. This sounds like a job for.....PTFE Tapeman!

nimrod

#14
I covered the whole clutch pedal assembly this weekend with spray white grease seemed fine after that,drove to work this morning with the heater blowers on all was quiet,turned the blowers off just before I parked up and there still was a little squeak I am still convinced the noise is coming from the pedal area and not the clutch,at least the heater blowers cover the noise and will probably be in regular use now.

Wabbitkilla

#15
We've seen this all before, it's pretty weird how the noise is created in the bell housing and you perceive it to be coming from the pedal assembly.
Someone has got rid of it by using a decent grease on the fork pivot in the bell housing, mine has mostly gone but I'm sure I hear it now and then.
Cute & fluffy animals were definitely hurt during the production of this post, there're plenty more where they came from
Aztec Bronze S2 Elise 111S
Campovolo Grey Abarth 595 Competizione

nimrod

#16
Are there any pictures or drawings of the fork pivot in bell housing,if not I will get someone to operate the clutch to find it,I assume that I need to get under the car?

spit

#17
I've just moved a couple of gearboxes in the garage. I can get some useful photos from inside & out, but it'll have to wait until the morning if thats ok?

Yes, ideally you need to get under. You'll see the rubber boot surrounding the fork. It has a small vent that can be used to introduce lube..... but best to see a pic of the inside to get an idea of where you're aiming.
1999 MR-S with added C2 POWΣR

Humbled recipient of the Perry Byrnes memorial trophy (2007 & 2011)

AmeR

#18
Quote from: "spit"I've just moved a couple of gearboxes in the garage. I can get some useful photos from inside & out, but it'll have to wait until the morning if thats ok?

Yes, ideally you need to get under. You'll see the rubber boot surrounding the fork. It has a small vent that can be used to introduce lube..... but best to see a pic of the inside to get an idea of where you're aiming.

Eh you're a good'un!!  s:D :D s:D

nimrod

#19
Thanks spit,I wish they did a Haynes manual for the MK3 in book form as in the good old days,I know it can be bought as a CD so when I eventually buy a home computer I will probably go that route.

spit

#20
oh b*gger I forgot about this......   s:oops: :oops: s:oops:  I'll go do it now. BRB.
1999 MR-S with added C2 POWΣR

Humbled recipient of the Perry Byrnes memorial trophy (2007 & 2011)

spit

#21
Here we go......

Rubber boot showing 'vent' hole - handy for getting a straw-feed lube can into.



From inside the bell housing, showing fork in position:



Dimple indicating pivot point:



Fork removed to give an indication of distance from end of fork to pivot dimple:



And finally, bell housing with fork removed showing copaslip'd pivot:



Hope this helps

Ste
1999 MR-S with added C2 POWΣR

Humbled recipient of the Perry Byrnes memorial trophy (2007 & 2011)

nimrod

#22
thanks for the pictures,unfortunately I cannot download them on the works computer,but I will speak to my lad later on to print the pictures and I am sure they will help ,thanks for your time.

AMH

#23
 s:D :D s:D  Seriously useful pictures - my RAV does the same squeak / no squeak routine and using bike chain lube cured it last time - I was spraying blind tho but seeing these pictures it looks like my guessed location was correct.   s:D :D s:D
Ex Demo Nov 06 car - did only have 35 miles on the clock !
Silver with Red interior, Private Plate, Origin B2, Philips +80% lamps, TTE Air Filter, TTE Underbody Brace, SP (Cusco) Strut Brace, Electric Aerial Switch, Clarion Double-Din iPod Stereo, Alpine Door Speakers, Dynamat, Markiii inlet pipe, TRD short-shifter, De-Cat and TTE springs, TRD knob, ROCLinks, TTE ARB\'s, MOMO wheel on own design boss.
2004 RAV4 Granite ...
2006 MR2 Roadster
2006 Mini Cooper ...
2009 KTM 990 SMT ...
2011 Lexus IS250 Advance ...
So that\'ll be RWD, 4WD, FWD and Mono-wheeling then ... But driveway now full !

nimrod

#24
I assume I have to take off the engine splash guard to gain access to said area,I was going to do it yesterday but its quite tricky in a residential car park,I might do it over Christmas at my parents or a friend who has offered me use of his pit in his garage.also a hundred mile round trip on Saturday cured the squeak,but its come back to haunt me today.

Tags: