Lippys SP Turbo - Rear splitter arrived

[andywood]

Breather pipe for crank-case ventilation.
There is one on the other side of the rocker cover too (nearest rear of car) that goes from the PCV to the inlet manifold.

Andy

[Lippy]

Cheers andy, can i plumb them into my 2 port catch tank do you think?

[MattPerformance]

Cheers andy, can i plumb them into my 2 port catch tank do you think?

Yes you can.  It's not really necessary but it'll be a good safety net if ever the engine developed problems and started breathing really heavily.

[Lippy]

Cheers andy, can i plumb them into my 2 port catch tank do you think?

Yes you can.  It's not really necessary but it'll be a good safety net if ever the engine developed problems and started breathing really heavily.

Ive got a catch tank in the garage from my saxo anyway so might do that at some point, I PM'd Andy recently asking who fitted my kit and I do believe it was you Matt, credit where credits due it looks like it grew there.

Do you have any idea why the 235bhp map is a bit peaky? Im planning on putting it back to 235 when the weather improves and wondered what might cause that? my guess was intercooler too small or the need of a better management setup like a standalone rather than the piggyback?
It runs and pullls like a dream at the moment and prob does on the high boost too just graph looks different.

I have quite a few ideas for this car and am reading quite a bit on whats what etc... but never had a turbo'd car until now only Nitrous oxide

[MattPerformance]

Do you have any idea why the 235bhp map is a bit peaky?

That is a fairly typical shape of torque curve for a turbo'd car.  When you look at the BHP curve you see a steady rise (at a fairly consistent gradient) and that is what you actually feel when you drive the car.

[Lippy]

Cheers Matt, I thought that might be the case but thought it might be interesting to ask.

Well over the last couple of days inbetween the rain and blisteringly cold weather ive been changing my front speakers, I found that the previous owner had a set of Alpine S series components in the car which I have removed, they sounded fairly good bottom end frequencies but the were slightly lacking in clarity with treble and vocals.

I used a roll of 'anti vibe' the stuff made by vibe, halfords didnt have any dynamat extreme which I much prefer and works alot better but better than nothing for now. I had problems fixing my speakers to the standard surrounds but managed to hold them in place with some screws at 45 Degrees (looks messy but does the trick!) The waterproof sheeting was quite flappy and thin so I used a load of decent quality duct tape to make that more rigid whilst I was in there...

I want to fit my amp under the passengers chair and run some decent gauge speaker cable to the fronts but cant seem to find out how to get to the car side of the door wiring loom plug??? Anyone done this job and able to advise?

Heres some pictures

[Lippy]

I can get to the inside of the door and dont think il have a problem with the door side for the speaker cables but inside the car I cant see a loom at the same height and im thinking that there are 2 skins inside the car in this area and the second skin is obscuring my view of the other end of the rubber tube...? HELP lol

[JiMR2]

Trial and error my friend... I tried coat hangers taped to the cable, cable smoothered in washing up liquid, nothing would do the trick. Then i found an old curtain wire, you know the fairly sturdy/thick yet flexible stuff?

I popped the grommet out of the inner door (car side) and pierced a small incision there then threaded the lubed curtain wire through into the door,  I taped end of my cable to that and hey presto, into the door. Repeat going the other way, so curtain wire through same incision but this time angled into the car and job done. You wont be able to see where the cable comes through but using the curatin wire it'll find its way and pop out to the looms in the footwell under the covers. Pull through till you get the cable and then just pop the flexi grommets back into place, after pulling slack either into the car or into the door.

Certainly the only way I could manage it without going mad.

[Lippy]

Trial and error my friend... I tried coat hangers taped to the cable, cable smoothered in washing up liquid, nothing would do the trick. Then i found an old curtain wire, you know the fairly sturdy/thick yet flexible stuff?

I popped the grommet out of the inner door (car side) and pierced a small incision there then threaded the lubed curtain wire through into the door,  I taped end of my cable to that and hey presto, into the door. Repeat going the other way, so curtain wire through same incision but this time angled into the car and job done. You wont be able to see where the cable comes through but using the curatin wire it'll find its way and pop out to the looms in the footwell under the covers. Pull through till you get the cable and then just pop the flexi grommets back into place, after pulling slack either into the car or into the door.

Certainly the only way I could manage it without going mad.

Cheers for the tip! I normally use a metal coathanger but didnt think that would bend enough so didnt attempt it yet, its been too rainy and cold so far too :-
Need to find a curtain rail by the sounds...

Whilst waiting for the weather to get better i fitted my road angel (license saver) but promised myself i wouldnt drill any holes in this car, an hour later i managed to cut the cable in 2 and get it behind the dash... not the tidiest install but no holes drilled.

 

The interiour light was pants and used too much power so i fitted an 18 led light cluster from my saxo, now much brighter but i need a clear cover i think...

 

 



Also working out how im going to fit my sub in the rear bins so stripped that out and i now have a plan  s;-) ;-) s;-)  whilst i was in there i found the boost controller and dastek ecu

[Anonymous]

just to let you know but in your second pic looking for the wires for the door (one with a red box in it) well if you remove the plastic in the bottom of that pic then you will see a square cutout with a bunch of wires coming out of if. the wires from the door go in, down and out at the bottom, if that all make sense

[Lippy]

Cheers for the advice rbuckingham! i managed to get the cables through pretty easy the other night, didnt have a curtain wire but i found that a short piece of my wizards of nos tubing was perfect for the job  :-) :-) :-)  
cables to headunit are now bigger, just need to fit my amp somewhere like under the seat next.

[Anonymous]

Cheers for the advice rbuckingham! i managed to get the cables through pretty easy the other night, didnt have a curtain wire but i found that a short piece of my wizards of nos tubing was perfect for the job  :-) :-) :-)  
cables to headunit are now bigger, just need to fit my amp somewhere like under the seat next.

unless you stick the amp under a steam roller i dont think it will go under the seats are fairly low

[spit]

A quick aside: if you have a Dastek and you opt for power amp positioning in the rear bin, keep the two seriously separate. The Dastek really doesn't like to get hot.

[stargazer30]

Oh no those speaker mounts wont do.  Your going to have air leaks from the rear of the speaker cancelling out any lower frequencies and most likely over time the speakers going to come loose.  I'd suggest making some MDF speaker brackets up of at least getting some £10 plastic ones off ebay.  Whilst your at it maybe get shot of the duct tape and use flashing tape on the door.  I'll guarentee you this will make much much more of an improvement than fighting thicker wire through the door gromets.

[Lippy]

Cheers for the advice rbuckingham! i managed to get the cables through pretty easy the other night, didnt have a curtain wire but i found that a short piece of my wizards of nos tubing was perfect for the job  :-) :-) :-)  
cables to headunit are now bigger, just need to fit my amp somewhere like under the seat next.

unless you stick the amp under a steam roller i dont think it will go under the seats are fairly low

Luckily my amp is a genesis profile 4 so its about 1 inch tall. ive slid it under from behind and all looks well!

 

A quick aside: if you have a Dastek and you opt for power amp positioning in the rear bin, keep the two seriously separate. The Dastek really doesn't like to get hot.

The amp will either be going under the seat or mounted behind the seat verticle so shouldnt need to worry. cheers for the heads up though as if it has to go in there then il place suitably away or use pc fans to reduce heat

[Lippy]

Oh no those speaker mounts wont do.  Your going to have air leaks from the rear of the speaker cancelling out any lower frequencies and most likely over time the speakers going to come loose.  I'd suggest making some MDF speaker brackets up of at least getting some £10 plastic ones off ebay.  Whilst your at it maybe get shot of the duct tape and use flashing tape on the door.  I'll guarentee you this will make much much more of an improvement than fighting thicker wire through the door gromets.

Luckily the leaking is minimal tbh, the standard rings have foam sealing tape and where the speaker meets the plastic ring a solid sealant fills any holes.
The main leaks will be around the window seals and there is nothing you can do about those. its sealed pretty well if im honest

[Lippy]

My Genesis amp was fitted yesterday, there really isnt much room under there at all but luckily with a little fiddling about it fits like a glove and the seat still operates normally. The amp is running just the front components a the moment so 140w RMS into speakers that are rated at 90w RMS iirc (sounds pretty good but wont be running them too hard incase they pop on me :/





Ive finished sound proofing the rear end under the plastic panels in the rear storage bins, seems to eliminate a little engine noise and vibration (can still hear the turbo though which is good). I wanted to sound proof the rear as im building a sub box for my 8" JL w3, I wanted the box nice and light but strong and to be able to be hidden out of the way if thats what I decide to do so fibreglass was the way forward...





Heres the first parts of the box... I cleaned the inside of the rear bin with glass cleaner to remove any silicone etc, then covered with a whole roll of duck tape, lightly sprayed in carpet glue and stuck halfords car polishing cloth to that as its really stretchy. The cloth has had 1 layer of fibreglass resin all over and im going out tomorrow to get some more fibreglass and some glass matting after work.







I also bought this from Ebay just as a little trinket, its aluminium (chrome finish) fits and seals like a glove and only cost me £8.99 as opposed to the TRD one I was going to get for £20+



Also thanks to  sdick dick sdick 2ski I have some OEM parts to destroy and modify which were paid for and posted today, cheers for helping me out and posting so quickly bud much appreciated

[JoniiBoii]

Loving the progress! Keep us posted!

[Lippy]

Loving the progress! Keep us posted!

Cheers bud  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

I was beginning to wonder if anyone was still reading stuff on the forum over winter... its gone very quiet... Lol


well the sub box is finished installed and works a treat, ive started work on something else today too... il put pictures up tomorrow hopefully... it should be a 1 off like the bass box

[ChrisGB]

Loving the progress! Keep us posted!

Cheers bud  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

I was beginning to wonder if anyone was still reading stuff on the forum over winter... its gone very quiet... Lol

Possibly because your mostly audio related thread is in the performance forum?

Regarding the higher output map, Redline are doing a closed loop map that is very smooth to drive. I have mine set up with throttle position proportional boost and it is perfectly drivable in the wet, even on worn R888. You will need to get the 440cc injectors fitted to run the high output map. Downside of that is you can get cold start flooding as they confuse the ecu on start up, but easy enough to just open the throttle a little to get it to catch straight away.

As for the Nitrous, probably best left in the garage if you don't want to be rebuilding your engine and gearbox.

Chris

[Lippy]

Possibly because your mostly audio related thread is in the performance forum?

Regarding the higher output map, Redline are doing a closed loop map that is very smooth to drive. I have mine set up with throttle position proportional boost and it is perfectly drivable in the wet, even on worn R888. You will need to get the 440cc injectors fitted to run the high output map. Downside of that is you can get cold start flooding as they confuse the ecu on start up, but easy enough to just open the throttle a little to get it to catch straight away.

As for the Nitrous, probably best left in the garage if you don't want to be rebuilding your engine and gearbox.

Chris

Didnt want to start more than 1 thread for different parts of what I do to the car so thought performance was a good section to choose as its boosted and I have plans for it but it needed some decent music system upgrades before anything else.
I have the 440cc injectors already but they will be going away to be tested and ultrasonically cleaned with all new seals before they go on my car for high boost

I want to rebuild the engine with forged pistons & rods at some point but not just yet, if I do run the gas in this car then it will only be 10bhp shot until its forged

[Lippy]

Update to current stereo upgrades  s:) s:)

Heres some piccys of the box in creation, might be useful to some-one thinking on doing the same sort of thing or making anything out of fibreglass to keep the weight down...













Its basically a mould taken from the rear storage area built up on the inside with fibreglass matting, batten was used to get the angles of the sub ring and then removed once the top had been built up with matting to give it some strength, finished off with filler (small amounts and then trimmed in 4 way stretch flock effect material using contact adhesive for house carpets.

It weighs approx 1.5 - 2 kg and the sub is about 4 kg as it has pretty big magnets and is the w3 model JL do... it sounds pretty good hitting the low notes well but not being loud enough to damage ears and neighbouring vechicles, ive has a 15" square kicker sub in my old car and been there and done that

So thats the stereo finished for now

[Lippy]

Next on the list of things to do is get my gauges fitted in the car (I have a habit of buying gauges) theres something about knowing what the car is doing that I find really appealing! They look pretty good too

I decided the day I bought the car that a few of them would go on top of the centre dash pocket thing...
I put out a wanted ad for a spare panel so I dont damage anything on the car from when I bought it, 'dick2ski' helped me out there (cheers dude) and supplied me with that pocket and a spare double din cup holder/ashtray assembly for me to carve up.

I destroyed the gauge holders from my old car, removed all the fibreglass, used P40 to bond them to the top of the panel after some agressive sanding, used halfords stretchy netting again to make the shape over the top, doesnt need to be that strong so il paint it over with resin again soon and thats it for strength, its not finished but I only started it 2 days ago and its coming along nicely

Here is how its going so far...

[onion86]

Love the sub box, would be great to know how to do that myself. Coming along nicely mate.

[JoniiBoii]

I tell you what mate ! I'm impressed! Really good work! I've fancied doing something like your sub box for a while! 1 weeks work?