OCV + filter replacement - P1349

Started by onion86, April 28, 2012, 17:04

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PeteT

#25
I just thought i would update you on my issues with this code.

I have been getting the code as a pending code for 6 months now with the occasional full code with a management light. I changed the OCV valve and this seemed to help but in time i was still getting the pending codes  s:( :( s:(    These pending codes do clear themselves but if the problem occurs, i think 3 times in quick succession you get the engine light(i stand to be corrected).

I had the intention of replacing the OCV filter but i spoke to the guy i use to MOT my car and he asked if i used engine flush, which i do, the Wynns stuff from Halfords. He suggested that i use the Forte flush, He showed me the bottle and it specifically says it frees sticking Variable Valve Timing. He also said that if the oil level is low'ish there might not be enough oil pressure to open the valve. So i put the forte flush in the engine, and took the mechanics advice and took it for a 20 min drive and i left it to idle for a further 10 mins. The bottle suggested 30-40mins of idling. I took the engine upto 5-6k rpm and few times, not driving it hard though. I did the service as normal, the car now feels a lot better and i've not had any pending codes, I've done 300 miles.
Unfortunately the forte stuff is not available to the general public, you need to be a garage. This is a link to the stuff i used http://www.forteuk.co.uk/product.php?id=43/Advanced_Formula_Motor_Flush I am sure there are places on the internet you can get it.

I hope that helps you.
Pete


onion86

#26
Thanks Pete, keep us updated if the code does come back.

I was going to take Nic's advice and try out the Wynns stuff but might give this a try instead, seems you can get it from Camskill for a tenner so worth a go.
Sable 55 C-One MR2 C2 Turbo - A/C, Black Heated Leather, TTE Twin Exhaust, Cruise Control

E

#27
also available on  Ebay for a about a tenner delivered.

onion86

#28
Cheers, got it from eBay, Camskill would've been P&P on top.
New oil filter and Forte flush ordered along with 10 litres of Fuchs GT1 from Oilman  s:) :) s:)
Sable 55 C-One MR2 C2 Turbo - A/C, Black Heated Leather, TTE Twin Exhaust, Cruise Control

PeteT

#29
 s:cry: :cry: s:cry:  

I sorry to say that after 4 days of error free motoring, i've got the pending code again and all the symptons have come back.

Now i am pretty certain i have a sticking VVT mechanism in the engine so its time to start saving so i can buy the VVT mechanism and get it fitted. Does anyone know the part number?
Pete


FGrob

#30
Quote from: "PeteT":cry:

I sorry to say that after 4 days of error free motoring, i've got the pending code again and all the symptons have come back.

Now i am pretty certain i have a sticking VVT mechanism in the engine so its time to start saving so i can buy the VVT mechanism and get it fitted. Does anyone know the part number?
I'm not sure what year your car is Pete but for 2002 - 2005 model it's part number 13050-22011 looks to be about £150, this is the mechanical timing gear at the end of the camshaft you are talking about??

Rob.
Ex owner of a Black 2004 car "which is quite possibly the finest normally aspirated MR2 Roadster in the country" as quoted by Japanese Performance Magazine Dec 2010.

Classic & Performance Car Show Winner Sunday 5th June 2011 - Tatton Park - Best Toyota MR2.

PeteT

#31
Thank you Rob, Yes my car is a facelift 2003 52 plate.
Pete


PeteT

#32
Should i consider having the chain done at the same time? The car has about 72000 miles
Pete


FGrob

#33
Quote from: "PeteT"Should i consider having the chain done at the same time? The car has about 72000 miles
They are supposed to be good for over a 100,000, I'm not sure if the chain can be replaced while the engine is still in the car, certainly the VVT mech can be changed as it has to be removed to change the cams which I've already had done - I would think Ste or Nic would be able to tell you.

Rob.
Ex owner of a Black 2004 car "which is quite possibly the finest normally aspirated MR2 Roadster in the country" as quoted by Japanese Performance Magazine Dec 2010.

Classic & Performance Car Show Winner Sunday 5th June 2011 - Tatton Park - Best Toyota MR2.

PeteT

#34
Thanks Rob

Stu, at the risk of jinx'ing my problem. I've not had a pending code since tuesday morning and the car has been running great  s:) :) s:)  I even got 35mpg, 3-4 mpg over what i would have expected on my last tank based on my commuting route.

FYI, I have got a price of £148 for a new VVT mechanism from Toyota, then the cost of the fitting.

So with my car looking like it is having a sticky mechanism which has improved since using Forte, The first thing i will do is to do another service with the Forte stuff in about 1 month before i get the engine opened up.

I hope you have similar/better success Stu
Pete


onion86

#35
Well just before I went away I got this done as I've got a 200 mile trip tomorrow.

So had posted this on the other thread but here is the oil that came out after I put the engine flush through the system on oil that has done ~500 miles!


So I flushed the oil out, removed the filter and left the oil to drain overnight. I then removed the sump the next day to check the bottom end,


not the cleanest of engines with quite a lot of build up but I hate to think what it was like before the engine flush went through. I tried to clean off as much as I could, it wasn't too difficult so I think another flush next time the oil's changes should get the rest off. I thoroughly cleaned out the sump and have put in the new OCV filter (wasn't quite so tricky this time) and carb cleaned the OCV itself again.

All back together, went on a 10 mile drive, not really sure whether it's more responsive, quieter or anything but no light back on yet. I'll feedback next weekend after 500 odd miles but fingers crossed this time.

N.B. I don't think there's any way that you can fit the new 'allen key style' OCV filter bolt to the MR2, It's a pretty big Allen key and I couldn't get it in even without the bolt there I'd say it's front fitted engine only... so I reused the original bolt and the new filter/gasket.
Sable 55 C-One MR2 C2 Turbo - A/C, Black Heated Leather, TTE Twin Exhaust, Cruise Control

redarrow

#36
just asking can a steam cleaner clean all the gunk out or a water pressure washer on;y asking of interest.

and good work mate.
[size=85]These are the dreaded code your get with cheap 02 sensors.
P0135 drivers side position. (o2 sensor heater malfunction (bank 1 sensor 1)
P0155 passengers side position. (o2 sensor heater malfunction (bank 2 sensor 1)
P0141 passengers side down below exhaust position. (o2 sensor heater malfunction (bank 1 sensor 2[/size]

doogz

#37
Quote from: "redarrow"just asking can a steam cleaner clean all the gunk out or a water pressure washer on;y asking of interest.

and good work mate.

Out of what?

If you have the sump off the car, and away from it, you could clean it with either of those methods, as long as you dried it thoroughly before re-fitting it.

I hope you're not asking though, if you could clean the bottom end of the engine, with the sump off, with water or steam. Would. Not. Recommend. That.

onion86

#38
Well little update now...

It lasted 214 miles after the 'super clean' before the EML came back on  s:( :( s:(  It then managed a 40 mile trip to Ipswich and back on Saturday but came on twice during the 230 miles back to Bristol yesterday with 3 stops.

I think I can definitely cross dirty oil off the list now so ordering a new OCV. I would say I still don't seem to be getting any symptoms but I did think my new '2 seemed to have less pull than my old one from the day I bought it... hmmm.

I know it's related to the 1346 rather than my code but where is the cam position sensor located so I can clean that, is it near over near TB?
Sable 55 C-One MR2 C2 Turbo - A/C, Black Heated Leather, TTE Twin Exhaust, Cruise Control

Ross_Curtis

#39
Not sure how useful this will be to this post.

I've been having This error now for the past 5 years. 

It all started one day when I filled up my car at morrisons.  The pump was REALLY slow and the next day closed for refurbishment, that evening my CEL came on with this error.

Looking at the Toyota info on this code it doesn't seem as though fuel could be related but I'm convinced it is.
Since it first came on, for the first year it only appeared once every 3 or so months.  Gradually it came on more regularly.  For the last year it would NEVER come on on a drive of less than 15 mins, which is roughly how long it takes for the cars temperature to move to its normal reading.  Like clockwork I knew I could drive to my mums (25miles) without it coming on, but I could also predict within a few miles on my return trip when it would light up.
My trip to work is 10 mins and for the last few years never came on, until recently when on th odd occasion it pops up.  Interestingly, the light will turn itself off after a while/short trip.  

I've not really done anything about it because Toyota scared me with prices of £500 to check it!! Basically they said we can check it for £80!! But the work to diagnose it could cost upto around £500; then I'd have the cost of repair.
I'd love to sort this out.  The fact I've lived with it for 5 years and the fact it will turn itself off makes me think It can't be that bad, can it?

onion86

#40
Well by way of another update, I changed the OCV (Toyota Part number 15330-22030 - £89 from CTP) on 9th August. After a cruise to my nephew's Christening a couple of weekends ago and a trip up to Telford this weekend I've now racked up 350 engine light free miles  s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:

I did seem to notice a little more power when I was alone in the car this weekend than I've been used to and when I had them both I always had a little niggle in my mind that my old '2 seemed faster than the new one but thought it was just me. Not really sure how to explain it properly but the engine bay oddly seems to 'smell' less like it's cooler and not been working as hard as it used to (if that makes any sense at all), could all be down to the VVT not doing it's job.

I'll update in another few weeks but fingers crossed we're now sorted!
Sable 55 C-One MR2 C2 Turbo - A/C, Black Heated Leather, TTE Twin Exhaust, Cruise Control

Wabbitkilla

#41
Oddly PeteT has noted that if you "exercise" the engine in your driving, i.e. use the full rev range regularly it cuts down the problem.
I suppose if you're commuting and driving "economically", then the valve doesn't get much use ... therefore it gets sticky?

Glad to hear you may have sorted the problem, let's see how it goes.
Cute & fluffy animals were definitely hurt during the production of this post, there're plenty more where they came from
Aztec Bronze S2 Elise 111S
Campovolo Grey Abarth 595 Competizione

onion86

#42
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"Oddly PeteT has noted that if you "exercise" the engine in your driving, i.e. use the full rev range regularly it cuts down the problem.
I suppose if you're commuting and driving "economically", then the valve doesn't get much use ... therefore it gets sticky?

Glad to hear you may have sorted the problem, let's see how it goes.
That could be the case, I was told the previous owner did a motorway commute every day and not use the car for much else; but along with her evidently not servicing the car enough I can't necessarily pinpoint it to that.

I think by having this issue I've potentially fixed a few other horrors waiting to happen, especially flushing the engine out. I've had to spend quite a bit on 3 oil and filter changes but it'll be worth it in the long run.

I also seem to have increased my MPG from 38 from 2/3 tanks to 41+ on the last 2 tanks since the engine flush went through. I've been driving in the same way and on the same routes so pretty happy with that.
Sable 55 C-One MR2 C2 Turbo - A/C, Black Heated Leather, TTE Twin Exhaust, Cruise Control

doogz

#43
Well, my EML has been popping up every week or so with this fault, even since I cleaner the OCV, replaced the filter, and changed the oil.

It lit up on Friday on my way home from work. I never used the car all weekend, and never got a chance to do anything about it. Used it yesterday for work, then came home, and went back out to the gym.

On the way home from the gym, the light went back off, of it's own accord.

it's never done that before? Anyone else?

Ross_Curtis

#44
My EML with the same code will turn itself off on startup once I've been on a short trip, doesn't happen every time, it's a little random.

doogz

#45
Quote from: "Ross_Curtis"My EML with the same code will turn itself off on startup once I've been on a short trip, doesn't happen every time, it's a little random.

Mine came back on last night on my way home again.

Nuisance.

doogz

#46
And went back off again this morning?!

Think my car might be haunted or something...

Wabbitkilla

#47
Quote from: "doogz"And went back off again this morning?!

Think my car might be haunted or something...

Always worrying, have you had the chance to get an OBDii reader connected to see if there are any codes stored?
I remember driving around for a while with a reader permanently connected to catch the codes as they happened.

Worth a try   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Cute & fluffy animals were definitely hurt during the production of this post, there're plenty more where they came from
Aztec Bronze S2 Elise 111S
Campovolo Grey Abarth 595 Competizione

doogz

#48
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"
Quote from: "doogz"And went back off again this morning?!

Think my car might be haunted or something...

Always worrying, have you had the chance to get an OBDii reader connected to see if there are any codes stored?
I remember driving around for a while with a reader permanently connected to catch the codes as they happened.

Worth a try   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

Same code, every time. 1349. I've reset it a few times, but these days if I leave it a few days it seems to turn itself off.

Always seems to occur in 5th, around 2500rpm, according to the snapshot.

PeteT

#49
This sounds similar to my problem. It sounds like your VVTI is sticking, sometimes sticking and then throwing the code and then freeing up and removing the code.

Try the Forte engine flush (others didn't work for me, see an earlier post in this thread!), put it in, go for a short drive using the full rev range. Don't drive the car hard, just go up the rev range at a gentle pace.

Drop the oil and put in fresh oil. Cross your fingers and go for a drive  s:) :) s:)  It worked for me  s:D :D s:D
Pete


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