OCV + filter replacement - P1349

[doogz]

This sounds similar to my problem. It sounds like your VVTI is sticking, sometimes sticking and then throwing the code and then freeing up and removing the code.

Try the Forte engine flush (others didn't work for me, see an earlier post in this thread!), put it in, go for a short drive using the full rev range. Don't drive the car hard, just go up the rev range at a gentle pace.

Drop the oil and put in fresh oil. Cross your fingers and go for a drive  s:) s:)  It worked for me  s:D s:D

Done that about a month ago, maybe a bit longer, after posting about it on here. Although I didn't drive the car, left it at fast idle for 15 minutes (using careful positioning of a brick on the throttle pedal) and it cleared up for a week or so, then re-occurred.

[Wabbitkilla]

I wonder if your vvti controller (end of the camshaft) has become sticky ... it is known to happen and I'm sure Rogue have a pile of them they've had to replace.   s:idea: :idea: s:idea:  

Have a word with PeteT about the software he uses and the bluetooth reader. <  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:   Beaten to it >
It's really handy for logging where and when codes are occurring along with loads, temperatures, even where on a road it actually occurred.
It's these niggles that are always a pain to track down the causes.

[doogz]

Like i said, I know when it's occurring, I get a snapshot of all the loads, speeds, currents, temps, pressures, etc.

It's saved on my laptop, don't have it handy. Wasn't giving away anything obvious.

[PeteT]

Although I didn't drive the car, left it at fast idle for 15 minutes (using careful positioning of a brick on the throttle pedal) and it cleared up for a week or so, then re-occurred.

This wont actually use the VVTi. The VVTi is an intelligent system controlled by the ECU using oil pressure via the OCV valve. If you drive the car with this flush in the ECU will open and close the VVTi depending on the load of the engine at certain revs. Just having the car idling will not have this effect and the VVTi will not be operating. You need to drive the car.

Always seems to occur in 5th, around 2500rpm, according to the snapshot.

and i bet this happens when your crusing along? 2500rpm is where the VVTi kicks in to give you more torque. If the ECU is telling the OCV valve to open and move the VVTi and it doesn't you will get the error code.

[doogz]

Although I didn't drive the car, left it at fast idle for 15 minutes (using careful positioning of a brick on the throttle pedal) and it cleared up for a week or so, then re-occurred.

This wont actually use the VVTi. The VVTi is an intelligent system controlled by the ECU using oil pressure via the OCV valve. If you drive the car with this flush in the ECU will open and close the VVTi depending on the load of the engine at certain revs. Just having the car idling will not have this effect and the VVTi will not be operating. You need to drive the car.

Always seems to occur in 5th, around 2500rpm, according to the snapshot.

and i bet this happens when your crusing along? 2500rpm is where the VVTi kicks in to give you more torque. If the ECU is telling the OCV valve to open and move the VVTi and it doesn't you will get the error code.

Ah, i see. Never actually thought of that, i figured the oil will be circulating everywhere, even if the VVTI system is not activated.

Thanks for the advice, I've had the car 3 months and this will be oil change No.3.

And yeah, sitting on the motorway, dawdling to and from work is when it seems to pop up.

[CrazySX]

is there a picture guide to changing the OCV or is it a really obvious job?

[Ardent]

Access is the problem.
at the back of the engine.
you need dainty triple jointed wrists

It is do able, but much patience and dexterity required.

[onion86]

Well as I've posted in another thread I'm still getting this every few hundred miles and it's really doing my head in, having a bit of free time I thought I'd take Nic's advice and check the two sensors I haven't dealt with yet. Thought I'd resurrect this rather than clogging up the other person's thread.

Managed to get the Cam Position Sensor out (I see I did mention it back in July 2012 but never got round to it!) and it was pretty grubby so cleaned it up, couldn't see any issues with electricals. I'll see if that makes any difference, I guess it could?  It looked to me like it was scraped/damaged before it cleaned off:



Next thing, how the hell do I get the Crank Position Sensor out, do I need to remove the Aux belt? Seemed to be no angle I could get anything onto it without it moving less than 1mm before hitting something. It doesn't look too bad down there but would still like to get it out if possible based on how the cam sensor looked inside.


Also despite my brain telling me not to I thought I'd check and clean the OCV filter again... 2 hours later and this happening twice then I had it back in... f***ing thing!:


Also finally sorted my squeaky clutch pivot  s:) s:)


CONTINUED - https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=65136