Project 2.0L Turbo

Started by Anonymous, May 3, 2004, 20:31

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Anonymous

I've just got back from a 450mile round trip to part with 100quid for a complete engine from a '2.  s:D :D s:D  

Over the next few months it will be stripped down, the block is going to be machined to allow for MWR's new big bore kit, which will make it nearly 2000cc and i'll be lowering the compression to 8.8.1.

The head is going to an unknown source yet, may try Fensport, but any suggestions will be appreciated. It will be ported and polished and any other bits needed.

When it's all assembled i'll be putting the toda flywheel in, and the ACT clutch. And then i'll put the little PE turbo up as far as it'll go and hang on for all i'm worth.

I will photograph every stage and try and do as best a write up as i can, so anyone else interested when/if their engine goes CABOOM can make a choice to follow.

Any particular interest in any area let me know and i'll try and highlight it.

I plan on putting the engine in when the stock clutch packs in, could be anytime really.   s:roll: :roll: s:roll:

SteveJ

#1
Ian,

Can this be written up and used for the website? Should be a great article!

Anonymous

#2
We would all benefit from knowledge of any incremental measurements, that could be made, starting with the current ("before") setup.

Therefore, before starting, would you please post your average for a half-dozen "Poor-man's dyno" runs?

I'm thinking of going that same route; so, I'm particularly interested in the details.  I think that your choice is much better in the long run and in terms of driveability than, for example, a 2zz swap, which is only useful above 6,000 rpm.

thanks,

SteveJ

#3
Please note - Ian is starting from a turbo 1ZZ setup, so the results are not going to be directly relevant to many other people.

Anonymous

#4
Quote from: "MikeCoughlin".  I think that your choice is much better in the long run and in terms of driveability than, for example, a 2zz swap, which is only useful above 6,000 rpm.

thanks,

Did you ever drove in or rode in MR2 with 2zzge (or Celica?).
There is nothing wrong with 2zzge in MR2, 99% of ppl would be very happy with it... it is wonderful engine that makes it easy to go above 6k, it is not of an chore as it might sound like...

off my rant, 1zz turbo should be nice, it would be interesting to see what MWR's big bore kit would put out numbers wise... good luck bro and keep us informed how it goes!

Anonymous

#5
Steve i'll do my best. As this isn't a 'must do in a hurry job' i'll be able to compile everything together, and if i miss anything it won't be too late to go back and do it.

A 2zz swap is an option for most but i agree with Mike about drivability as the turbo has so much low down torque, but what i'm trying to help work out is if/when your engine dies will it be a cheaper, viable option to have the block and pistons changed than to swop for

a. Another 1zz from a scrapper that could die anytime
b. A 2zz, which are hard to get in the UK, for decent money anyway. I contacted a few places, most had none 1 had one it was £1050+vat and delivery.

Estimated costs for what i'm doing

Engine £100 (Not needed if your going to use your own, when mine is done i'd be happy to do a swop out with my old block, ie. Send mine to be machined and pistons fitted then have back the one taken out ready for the next person. This would make peoples down time to a day or two)

MWR big bore kit with delivery £500
Block machined approx £200
Labour £free
Crower connecting rods £420 (Not needed if your staying NA)

So really to bring your engine to 2.0L and strenghen it considerably it will cost £700 for NA and £1120 for turbo. This may work out a cheaper alternative than any other engine swop, and finally it will be built to last.  s:evil: :evil: s:evil:

Anonymous

#6
I'm assuming the big bore kit doesnt include forged pistons?  if not are you going to go for those as well Ian?   (quietly watching with interest  s;-) ;-) s;-)  )

I would have thought it would have to, not much of a "kit" if it doesn't!

Anonymous

#7
Quote from: "perry190"I'm assuming the big bore kit doesnt include forged pistons?  

You can browse the Monkey Wrench MR2 offerings at:
http://monkeywrenchracing.com/toyota.html

In particular, the "big bore" kit is at:
http://monkeywrenchracing.com/mwr_toyota_1zz_fe_big_bore_kit.html

Anonymous

#8
Quote from: "perry190"I'm assuming the big bore kit doesnt include forged pistons?  if not are you going to go for those as well Ian?   (quietly watching with interest  s;-) ;-) s;-)  )

I would have thought it would have to, not much of a "kit" if it doesn't!

  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:   Yes mate, it wouldn't be much of a kit without. Forged parts all the way.  s8) 8) s8)

Anonymous

#9
sound, glad to see your going  ' blast proof'   s;-) ;-) s;-)

Anonymous

#10
This is very interesting, Ian! Are you thinking about squeezing as much juice as possible out of the PE until it dies, and then attach some huge custom turbo to make the 2 mach 2 capable?   s:D :D s:D  

Maybe you should change your nick to KingSpyder_UK   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

Really looking foreward to this project!

Anonymous

#11
I will test the capacity of the PE. No-one really knows its ability so it will be good to say for the record what psi it runs out of steam.

I know on my current setup it will handle 10psi with no boost drop off at high revs, so when it's bigger capacity and lower compression, i'll try it again, then up to 1bar hopefully.

After that it will be a matter of time to see if i ditch the PE and go custom, i haven't looked that far ahead yet.

Anonymous

#12
Here is some pics of the stripped engine. There isn't any damage to the pistons, cylinders or head but the failure of the head gasket between 3 cylinders is quite clear. Why this had happened i've no idea, and why the insurance company would of rather paid out 7k+ on a new engine rather than fix it is anyone's guess. This engine had never been stripped down previously.

 m http://www.ashg73.dsl.pipex.com/images/block1.jpg m

 m http://www.ashg73.dsl.pipex.com/images/block2.jpg m
 
Here's the cams with the vvt bit on the inlet cam

 m http://www.ashg73.dsl.pipex.com/images/cams.jpg m

For the people that wanted to see, here's the tensioner

 m http://www.ashg73.dsl.pipex.com/images/tensioner.jpg m

And the curved bit in this photo is what the chain runs in, and what the tensioner pushes on.

 m http://www.ashg73.dsl.pipex.com/images/tensarm.jpg m

loadswine

#13
The engine pics are very interesting. When the engine is bored out the distance between cylinders is going to be extremely close. Does the big bore kit come with a special head gasket?
No Roadster any more, Golf 7.5 GTi Performance

Anonymous

#14
No idea yet, but if the bore size is different and it's not just a different stroke size (as i suspect), then it will come with a different head gasket, as it is a 'kit'.

It's quite strange as you'd expect a bigger cc engine to need alot larger pistons, but you'll find that a few mm makes alot of difference to cubic capacity, but it's normally sorted out with the piston stroke. The only reason normally to have to machine the block is to add size to insert a ring of iron that can hold out with the new forged pistons.

They'll be with me in a few weeks so i'll let you all know the difference then.  s:D :D s:D

Anonymous

#15
Hi m8  s:) :) s:)

The MWR kit will get you bigger pistons and the bore will be 83mm instead of 79mm.  The stroke will remain the same at 91mm  s:) :) s:)

The opposite happens with the 2ZZ.  You stroke that one to get to 2L  s:) :) s:)

So basically you are getting a 2ZZ bore and a 1ZZ stroke  s:) :) s:)

Anonymous

#16
Quote from: "CIN"Hi m8  s:) :) s:)

The MWR kit will get you bigger pistons and the bore will be 83mm instead of 79mm.  The stroke will remain the same at 91mm  s:) :) s:)

The opposite happens with the 2ZZ.  You stroke that one to get to 2L  s:) :) s:)

So basically you are getting a 2ZZ bore and a 1ZZ stroke  s:) :) s:)

Thanks CIN, wasn't going to speculate until i get the kit, but now i know.

If anyone was going to know, thought it'd be you.  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

Anonymous

#17
Quote from: "CIN"The MWR kit will get you bigger pistons and the bore will be 83mm instead of 79mm.  The stroke will remain the same at 91mm  s:) :) s:)

The opposite happens with the 2ZZ.  You stroke that one to get to 2L  s:) :) s:)

So basically you are getting a 2ZZ bore and a 1ZZ stroke  s:) :) s:)

I wonder ...  do the forged Crower rods, recommended by MonkeyWrench, change the stroke?

If one had the thing apart and didn't change the rods, that would be a waste of a tear-down opportunity.

Anonymous

#18
No they don't change the stroke. Being turbo i agree it would be a waste while it's apart not to change, but NA i would find it hard to part with another £420 when they're not really needed as the stock can easily handle the power.

Anonymous

#19
Yes like Ian wrote the rods do not change the stroke.  The only way to change the stroke is to change the crank basically.   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

Ian.  When I visit the UK I want a passenger drive on your monster   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

Maybe I will be with my car so you can try mine too   s:D :D s:D

Anonymous

#20
Quote from: "CIN"Yes like Ian wrote the rods do not change the stroke.  The only way to change the stroke is to change the crank basically.   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

Ian.  When I visit the UK I want a passenger drive on your monster   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

Maybe I will be with my car so you can try mine too   s:D :D s:D

Oh yeh, that would be an interesting meet, your more than welcome to have a go.  s:D :D s:D

Anonymous

#21
Yeah an MR-S turbo and a MR-S VVTL-i would be a very rare combo to see   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

DAZ400

#22
Nice project you got going there Ian, I might well do the same one day, but for now just want my car back working to drive for a while.

PS congrats on the the promotion.......   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
SOLD No more 2. Just a bus for the family..........

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