Oil Light when turning

[Anonymous]

Sorry about the link, mods, but might help a little.

*MOD* eBay link removed.
I don't think it has been proven that the engine is dead, nor should we encourage the OP to spend their cash without just cause. Please stay on topic

I wasnt suggesting they buy the block, but get an idea of what it looks like.

[doogz]

Dry liners in the 1ZZ they are actually cast into the block and each is only a few millimeteres in wall thickness which renders the totally unsuited for replacement , rebore you are limited to a plus 0.5mm maximum.


norman

Without checking my old block but I think the linner thicker than a couple of mm. My pistons and 3mm bigger than stock.

You're 3mm larger than standard? What does that take the capacity out to? I don't have the standard bore and stroke to hand to work it out.

[Anonymous]

Guys thanks for your suggestions, I shall definatly be looking into the pre cats. I filled it up with oil and she had no light flicker on at all, I took it out last night seemed okay, kicked out a bit of smoke at around 4k though, going to check the oil again this morning and pop to see my mate for a compression test.

[Anonymous]

Dry liners in the 1ZZ they are actually cast into the block and each is only a few millimeteres in wall thickness which renders the totally unsuited for replacement , rebore you are limited to a plus 0.5mm maximum.


norman

Without checking my old block but I think the linner thicker than a couple of mm. My pistons and 3mm bigger than stock.

You're 3mm larger than standard? What does that take the capacity out to? I don't have the standard bore and stroke to hand to work it out.

Takes it to 1.93l instead of 1.8l

Still stock stroke but upgraded and is the same bore as the 2zz. Also in na form you can make 200bhp, mwr got one to 215bhp.

[doogz]

Without checking my old block but I think the linner thicker than a couple of mm. My pistons and 3mm bigger than stock.

You're 3mm larger than standard? What does that take the capacity out to? I don't have the standard bore and stroke to hand to work it out.

Takes it to 1.93l instead of 1.8l

Still stock stroke but upgraded and is the same bore as the 2zz. Also in na form you can make 200bhp, mwr got one to 215bhp.

Ah, i see that in your signature now.

I   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:   at your 165 football of torque

[Anonymous]

You know I've not noticed that lol

[Wabbitkilla]

[MOD]Can we stick to the subject the OP raised please? [/MOD]

[K T M Rider]

She has had a look at the dipstick and says that is showing no signs of oil, but having read through half the forum it would appear the dipstick on these cars might as well be made of actual stick from a tree its that useful.
Sam

the dipstick is not the easiest to read accurately, however just like any other if there's only a little oil on it you need to top up and if there is no oil on it, it is time to worry   s:shock: :shock: s:shock:  

Some good suggestions in the link below around making the dipstick easier to read, I just followed the advice of 'Silverman' and found it works well.

 l viewtopic.php?f=47&t=28331 l

As others have said (and is probably already now fairly obvious I suppose) you really need to check the oil at least weekly, untill you can determine accurately what the level of oil use is.

Did you buy the car privately or from a dealer ?

[Anonymous]

Quick update regarding tis thread. I had the car looked at by my mechanic and it seems it is in a bad way, smokes heavily under load, and has go tinned oil consumption at a vast rate. Car is going back to the dealer on Monday to be sorted. I shall suggest pre cat degradation when I drop it off, but is there anything else I could suggest to them while there?

Cheers

Sam

[Steve Green]

Give it a go but be warned they may well say that driving the car when the oil light is on, under ay circumstances is not their fault. Any evidence of a pre existing condition is likely to be gone.

I think you are in for an engine rebuild or you sell the car on for spares and repair. Either way, its money gone.

[K T M Rider]

I shall suggest pre cat degradation when I drop it off, but is there anything else I could suggest to them while there?

Cheers

Sam

might be might not be, based on all I have read and my own experience with my first car (oil burner, precats perfect on removal), I would be suggesting oil control ring failure unless I had seen the state of the precats myself.

As Steve has pointed out, if the car has been driven with the oil light on you are on a very slippery slope regarding any sort of redress. What I would be asking myself in your circumstances, is what do I honestly believe the oil consumption (in miles per litre) was PRIOR to the first time the oil light illuminated ? If I could be certain that it was worse than 600 miles per litre then I would consider that I might still have a case. Unfortunately, you will obviously need to remember more accurately than 'about a month ago' regarding oil top ups and then tie this in to the miles covered.

It does kind of beggar belief that you've got a wrecked engine on a sub 50,000 mile FSH Toyota   s:shock: :shock: s:shock: , which is pretty rough going even by 1ZZ standards

[AckersMR2]

Assuming you know the mileage of the car when you bought it and that it was topped up with oil then? Then you should be able to work out what it's used to now?

Maybe best not to mention that you ran it dry, so to speak, just that it is burning oil very quickly. If they disagree or get on the offensive then I would take it to a Toyota dealer, get them to fill it and paint make the cap and sump plug, drive it around until it's on the lower mark on the dipstick and take it back, they should then write a report stating the oil consumption situation and likely cause and remedy. Then go back to the dealer with that. Hopefully it won't come to this but I doubt the dealer is going to want to jump straight in with offering an engine rebuild, he'll probably want to perform some sort of additive treatment first? All sounds very much like Vikface's wows, hers was yellow too?

[Steve Green]

Assuming you know the mileage of the car when you bought it and that it was topped up with oil then? Then you should be able to work out what it's used to now?

The garage will justifiably ask for any evidence, and without documents, that's a problem.

It is fair that anyone buying a car from a reputable dealer would do so assuming everything is in good working order. I doubt if the dealer would know about the Pre Cat issue but if the car had a full service history he would be justified i thinking there was no issue.

As with all things, It's Buyer Beware. I spent a lot of time reading this forum before I bought, I knew what I was getting into with a Faclift SMT (perhaps). Not everyone does the same level of homework, nor should they be expected to.

I hope that the dealer has a sympathetic ear, he may accept a portion of the blame. IMHO in similar circumstances you have to have all the arguments prepared and have a firm idea of the outcome you woud be satisfied with. If you go in guns blazing, the dealer may close ranks, if you go in accepting 50% liability then maybe there is a deal to be struck.

[normanh]

I was just quoting the sizes from oem makers specs on pistons and bores list directly for 1ZZ.


norman

[K T M Rider]

Assuming you know the mileage of the car when you bought it and that it was topped up with oil then? Then you should be able to work out what it's used to now?

Not really that relevant IMO, unless the OP is going to pretend that the oil light never came on.

The oil light is a game changer, untill it came on, it might have been possible to class the car as not fit for purpose.

Once it has come on, it would more likely be argued as a case of  'owner neglect', even though it may seem unfair that it is probably also (in this case) a symptom of a car that was using alot of oil .

Maybe best not to mention that you ran it dry, so to speak, just that it is burning oil very quickly.

I wouldn't deliberately try to hide it either if directly asked about running it low -  What with there being this thread out here on the internet.

Can't be that many yellow 45,000 mile roadies with sick engines around.  

.............. I would take it to a Toyota dealer, get them to fill it and paint make the cap and sump plug, drive it around until it's on the lower mark on the dipstick and take it back, they should then write a report stating the oil consumption situation and likely cause and remedy...............

 All sounds very much like Vikface's wows, hers was yellow too?

Now I like that idea, (although maybe a bit too late for that this time around)  probably 'cos it sounds rather like what I suggested in Vikface's thread   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

if you go in accepting 50% liability then maybe there is a deal to be struck.

+1, absolutely IMO

[MattPerformance]

The oil light coming on is a symptom not a cause.  Oil control ring (OCR) oil consumption can reach incredibly high levels (I have seen cases well in excess of 1 litre in less than 50 miles) so it doesn't automatically follow that the oil light coming on is due to the driver not doing their oil top-ups properly.

I'm beginning to build up a database of people who have enquired about engine rebuilds (or I have diagnosed OCR issues) only for them to hurriedly dispose of the car thereafter.  I wonder how the dealer would argue against a pre-existing fault if I happen to have already diagnosed it?!!  Not saying that this is the case but increasingly cars are being moved on with oil consumption issues (especially into the trade) and then their new owners come on here with their horror stories.  Maybe it's time we had a new sticky so that potential owners can fully understand the engine issues (the pre-cat/ oval bore title is a complete misnomer and unhelpful to the uneducated). A "What you need to know about the MR2 Roadster engine before buying a car" thread would be much more helpful.  I'm sure that kind of thread will thoroughly upset the unscrupulous parties dumping cars with faulty engines but our loyalty should be to the newcomers of the club, not those departing it.

[2 of the left]

Is this Vikface's Yellow Banana surfacing again?  s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes:

[K T M Rider]

The oil light coming on is a symptom not a cause.  

not saying that you were disputing it   s:) s:)   but that is what I just said - perhaps I was a little bit unclear   s:? :? s:?  or perhaps you weren't referring to my post   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  

Oil control ring (OCR) oil consumption can reach incredibly high levels (I have seen cases well in excess of 1 litre in less than 50 miles) so it doesn't automatically follow that the oil light coming on is due to the driver not doing their oil top-ups properly.

OP said car was not smoking originally, kind of thought it would be smoking when you are down to that level ?

As always with these threads, a bit more info from the OP in terms of number of miles travelled and litres of oil used would be handy.

Got to agree though if a car is drinking it at THAT rate it kinda changes things somewhat - I guess it really does come down to buyer beware.

increasingly cars are being moved on with oil consumption issues (especially into the trade) and then their new owners come on here with their horror stories.

I think it has always been the case with problem cars and motorcycles that an owner will often try to offload the vehicle in a p/x rather than risk a private sale - definitely underlines the standard advice on here - buy from an established club member if you can !

Is this Vikface's Yellow Banana surfacing again?  s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes:

Vikfaces's car was showing a higher mileage - so presumably not.

[Anonymous]

The oil light coming on is a symptom not a cause.  Oil control ring (OCR) oil consumption can reach incredibly high levels (I have seen cases well in excess of 1 litre in less than 50 miles) so it doesn't automatically follow that the oil light coming on is due to the driver not doing their oil top-ups properly.

I'm beginning to build up a database of people who have enquired about engine rebuilds (or I have diagnosed OCR issues) only for them to hurriedly dispose of the car thereafter.  I wonder how the dealer would argue against a pre-existing fault if I happen to have already diagnosed it?!!  Not saying that this is the case but increasingly cars are being moved on with oil consumption issues (especially into the trade) and then their new owners come on here with their horror stories.  Maybe it's time we had a new sticky so that potential owners can fully understand the engine issues (the pre-cat/ oval bore title is a complete misnomer and unhelpful to the uneducated). A "What you need to know about the MR2 Roadster engine before buying a car" thread would be much more helpful.  I'm sure that kind of thread will thoroughly upset the unscrupulous parties dumping cars with faulty engines but our loyalty should be to the newcomers of the club, not those departing it.

I personally think this is a great idea...

Not that it would help me as I have already fallen fowl of the just bought a beautiful MR2 to find the engine is LUNCHED!

I have entrusted my car to this man to restore it to its former glory, and from my telephone conversations and meetings he very much knows his stuff on this topic ...

I love my MR2 I have learnt and expensive lesson but as a new member of this forum i hope to be around for a while encouraging the community to keep their cars running and in top order.

a non scaremoungering thread of the things to check and have an informed view going into ownership would be very helpful, yes it may put some people off buying one but if they are just going to send it to the breakers yard or screw someone else over at the 1st sign of trouble maybe we don't want them as owners in the 1st place