Releasing handbrake cable at the caliper

Started by wotugonado, January 25, 2013, 15:51

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wotugonado

Well i had a look at my rear calipers today as im going to have a go at refurbing them in time for the mot if need be, and  fell at the first hurdle  s:oops: :oops: s:oops:  
how do you release the cable from the caliper, i removed the wire securing clip from the pin but could nt release the pin from the caliper, which should
release the cable. I gave it a few taps with the hammer but it would nt budge so i presume ive not done something i should have. Handbrake was off btw.
any ideas ?
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StuC

#1
Taken from here

Quote from: "steve green"If you are advised that your handbrake is innefective, the first thing to do is to jack up the back of the car, support it on stands, and remove both rear road wheels. This will expose the rear of the caliper. With the handbrake lever off, remove the clips and pins that hold the cable to the caliper crank. Now you can check the cables. both sides must move freely inside their sleeves. If they do, they probably dont need replacing. It is possible but very rare, that a cable will stretch. It is impossible to check unless you remove them or have fully working calipers.
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wotugonado

#2
Cheers stu, i got that far. But after removing the clip, my pin wont budge even with some tapping with the hammer, so i need a bit more advice cause my dont simply pull out. Should i him them harder or is there more to it.
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Andys-N20

#3
Once the clip is out it should knock out, it will of course only come out one way,
If it doesn't I would try plus gas it and repeatedly tap it to try crack rust, I wouldn't beat it too hard as you may damage something.
If that doesn't work I would get some mole grips on the large side of the pin and try turn it.
Basically there is no hidden trick, just rust.
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Mike_V

#4
Try this, worked for me.

 l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=37393 l
EX 2000 MR2 Roadster,silver,grey/black leather trim,TTE rear bumper inserts,black-grey Momo steering wheel,17" Rota GT3 wheels,KYB struts and FK springs,TRD short shifter with brass shifter bushes,Matt Performance under body brace,Megan arms,Che ARBs,Pirhana discs and Yellow stuff pads,Custom stage 2 T28 SP Turbo,charge cooler system,Helix clutch,lightened flywheel,Moroso sump, custom exhaust and induction kit,550 cc injectors,Link storm G4 ECU with 260bhp&240 ft lbs.
----------------------------------------
2004 Red edition in Sable.
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frogger

#5
A socket on the back and hitting it works well (as link above).
But also a G-Clamp and socket on the back does too, a more gradual but equally forceful approach!

wotugonado

#6
Cheers lads, those suggestions are genius.......................
After reading the original how too of remove the clip and take out the pin, i was nt expecting to much drama, but it showed no signs
of movement at all, so thanks for sharing the knowledge   s:D :D s:D
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wotugonado

#7
Well thanks to the advice on here i managed to get these little b*stards out today   s:evil: :evil: s:evil:  




2 and a half hours of misery on a wet garage floor and half a can of plusgas before they finally came free, it literally became a
grudge match that i was determined not too lose, if i said it was a p.i.t.a that would be a monumental understatement.
The sense of satisfaction when they finally came out was great though   s8) 8) s8)  
So in the thread about caliper refurb where it says remove the clip and take out the pin, dont be fooled its not that easy, well not in my case anyway.

Good news is i think the actual calipers are fine as the part moved freely enough and sprang back into position with no problems, there is a lot of play in the one cable though.
Can anyone say the recommended ammount of play there should be, one side barely moved whilst the other moved about 2".
Im hoping it is just adjustment at the handbrake end, because i think replacing the cable is  a bit of a ballache is nt it ?
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Mike_V

#8
Well done sir  :-) :-) :-)
EX 2000 MR2 Roadster,silver,grey/black leather trim,TTE rear bumper inserts,black-grey Momo steering wheel,17" Rota GT3 wheels,KYB struts and FK springs,TRD short shifter with brass shifter bushes,Matt Performance under body brace,Megan arms,Che ARBs,Pirhana discs and Yellow stuff pads,Custom stage 2 T28 SP Turbo,charge cooler system,Helix clutch,lightened flywheel,Moroso sump, custom exhaust and induction kit,550 cc injectors,Link storm G4 ECU with 260bhp&240 ft lbs.
----------------------------------------
2004 Red edition in Sable.
http://s984.photobucket.com/albums/ae323/Mike_V/

wotugonado

#9
Quote from: "Mike_V"Well done sir  :-) :-) :-)

Thanks to your link, or i dont think id ever get the damn things out, but as some one who has shared the pain of doing this you ll know how good
it feels to finally get the pins free  s:D :D s:D  
So i think before refitting i will file off all of the rust and liberally apply plenty of grease.......................
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Mike_V

#10
Quote from: "wotugonado"
Quote from: "Mike_V"Well done sir  :-) :-) :-)

Thanks to your link, or i dont think id ever get the damn things out, but as some one who has shared the pain of doing this you ll know how good
it feels to finally get the pins free  s:D :D s:D  
So i think before refitting i will file off all of the rust and liberally apply plenty of grease.......................

Absolutely right.
EX 2000 MR2 Roadster,silver,grey/black leather trim,TTE rear bumper inserts,black-grey Momo steering wheel,17" Rota GT3 wheels,KYB struts and FK springs,TRD short shifter with brass shifter bushes,Matt Performance under body brace,Megan arms,Che ARBs,Pirhana discs and Yellow stuff pads,Custom stage 2 T28 SP Turbo,charge cooler system,Helix clutch,lightened flywheel,Moroso sump, custom exhaust and induction kit,550 cc injectors,Link storm G4 ECU with 260bhp&240 ft lbs.
----------------------------------------
2004 Red edition in Sable.
http://s984.photobucket.com/albums/ae323/Mike_V/

wotugonado

#11
Well i reassembled the cable to the caliper today, had a slightly uneven gap between the lever and the pins one was about 2-3mm the other was  tight-1mm.
So i unclipped again, then slacked off the handbrake cable at the handbrake, pulled the caliper levers as far back as they would go, reattached cables, pumped the brake pedal 20+ times with engine running, then did the handbrake adjustment about 1/2 a turn, evened up the gap a treat, handbrake is around 7 clicks now. Took the car to the steepest hill i could find and they held a treat, hopefully they will hold up for the mot.
I must add im just a have a go diy mechanic and would nt have had the 1st clue, without the help of the people on here. Theres some great write ups in the how too section,
so thanks to all   s:D :D s:D
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trevsmr2

#12
Quote from: "wotugonado"there is a lot of play in the one cable though.
Can anyone say the recommended ammount of play there should be, one side barely moved whilst the other moved about 2".
I'm hoping it is just adjustment at the handbrake end, because i think replacing the cable is  a bit of a ballache is nt it ?
Check its the inner cable that is moving ,not the outer cable ,if its the outer the handbrake will not work well enough ,and you will need to change them ,
its not a major job ,just a pain due to having to drop the fuel tank a little
I did a write up for it ,but its not been approved for the how to section

wotugonado

#13
Cheers Trev,
i did see a thread of yours with the seized cables that were full of water, thank fully mine werent that bad.
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