Judder when warm

Started by adscan, January 25, 2013, 23:52

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adscan

I have recently noticed that when my car has been run for a while the is a judder from the car when pulling away in first gear, once away all is fine. It feels like it is coming from the engine.
I have recently had new calipers and hand brake cables fitted. They are working well so I know it isn't brake related.

I cannot notice any clutch slip during driving. Although I have no info when the clutch was done (84k on the clock).  Any ideas?

Having searched on here I gather it is clutch or engine mounts. How can I find out easily which it could be?

Andys-N20

#1
Does it do it only when setting off from standstill? Also at what point does it stop juddering?
204.2 BHP Silver 2000 MR2, 2006 2ZZ engine, Apexi PFC, Zorstec full stainless system exhaust (including 400 cell cat & race header), titanium heat wrap, MRW underdrive pulleys, handmade short ram intake, Hondata intake gasket, Celica gearbox ratio's, LSD.
Edge 306 speakers, Alpine CDE 235BT, sound deadened doors.
Full facelift conversion including bracing, sub frame, the works...

adscan

#2
Quote from: "Andys-N20"Does it do it only when setting off from standstill? Also at what point does it stop juddering?

Yes just from a stand still and stops when the revs build up to about 2000.

I have no other problems when moving. Could it be fuelling related? If it was the clutch would it show signs of slipping?

Jay67

#3
got exactly the same problem, had a new clutch less than a year ago so i'm going for engine mounts when i can afford and got the time, horrible feeling when you're setting off, like the engines about to drop out!
Jason

1999 Lagoon blue MR-S, lots of stuff

adscan

#4
Quote from: "Jay67"got exactly the same problem, had a new clutch less than a year ago so i'm going for engine mounts when i can afford and got the time, horrible feeling when you're setting off, like the engines about to drop out!

yes..mine is doing same thing, it only started doing it the last couple of days and never does it from cold.

i know it is not the brakes as just had callipers/cables replaced.
how do you know it is engine mounts? have you had someone check this? is it a big job to replace the engine mounts? what cost am i looking at for parts and labour?

many thanks

Jay67

#5
i'm guessing that's the problem on mine, the mounts aren't expensive if you go for kirks aftermarket ones  m http://bit.ly/W8MvgI m  , toyota ones are a bit pricey in comparison, can see how to fit them here  l viewtopic.php?f=47&t=23044 l  very much doable yourself   s:) :) s:)
Jason

1999 Lagoon blue MR-S, lots of stuff

adscan

#6
Anyone know if pre facelift engine mounts are the same as post face lift ones? I have been offered a set from a 2003 car although my car is a 2000. Will these fit?

Anonymous

#7
Quote from: "Jay67"i'm guessing that's the problem on mine, the mounts aren't expensive if you go for kirks aftermarket ones  m http://bit.ly/W8MvgI m  , toyota ones are a bit pricey in comparison, can see how to fit them here  l viewtopic.php?f=47&t=23044 l  very much doable yourself   s:) :) s:)

If the rubber part of the stock mount split then the kirks are not a replacement. They are inserts that on into the edges to reduce flex in the rubber.

Quote from: "adscan"Anyone know if pre facelift engine mounts are the same as post face lift ones? I have been offered a set from a 2003 car although my car is a 2000. Will these fit?

Mounts are the same. Mounts are easy to change good bit of plus gas and someone to help with giving the engine a twist. Also do one mount at a time.

Jay67

#8
Quote from: "rbuckingham"
Quote from: "Jay67"i'm guessing that's the problem on mine, the mounts aren't expensive if you go for kirks aftermarket ones  m http://bit.ly/W8MvgI m  , toyota ones are a bit pricey in comparison, can see how to fit them here  l viewtopic.php?f=47&t=23044 l  very much doable yourself   s:) :) s:)

If the rubber part of the stock mount split then the kirks are not a replacement. They are inserts that on into the edges to reduce flex in the rubber.

i was kinda hoping he'd pick that up from the fitting instructions that they were inserts and the stock mounts would have to be intact, if the inserts work then no need for expensive new mounts
Jason

1999 Lagoon blue MR-S, lots of stuff

adscan

#9
Is there an easy way of checking that the mounts are toast. I will be looking at them tomorrow to see what condition they are in.

adscan

#10
Had my mounts checked by a mechanic who says mounts are fine. Also clutch and flywheel is also fine. Anything else cause the engine to judder when warm and pulling away in 1st gear?

redarrow

#11
Quote from: "adscan"Had my mounts checked by a mechanic who says mounts are fine. Also clutch and flywheel is also fine. Anything else cause the engine to judder when warm and pulling away in 1st gear?


This is why we use toyota mac or on here mac
Your get a million opions what it is .....

Are all your tyres the same make ,
That get mention a lot on jagger .

When the car jaggers , out of 10 what vibration
Go thru the steering wheel ?
[size=85]These are the dreaded code your get with cheap 02 sensors.
P0135 drivers side position. (o2 sensor heater malfunction (bank 1 sensor 1)
P0155 passengers side position. (o2 sensor heater malfunction (bank 2 sensor 1)
P0141 passengers side down below exhaust position. (o2 sensor heater malfunction (bank 1 sensor 2[/size]

adscan

#12
All tyres the same. And no judder through the steering at all.

I thought mounts or flywheel but both good apparently.

james_gt3rs

#13
I have a suspicion the car suffers a bit of heat soak. Because sometimes if I get stuck in stop start traffic it sometimes gets a bit juddery. Nothing to worry about, my car's done 3 trackdays with no problems so the cooling system is fine..

adscan

#14
Turns out the front and back mounts are the problem. Going to give it a go swapping them on Tuesday. I take it these are the easier ones to swap?

Jay67

#15
rear one is a piece of cake, front one is a bit fiddly but still not too bad
Jason

1999 Lagoon blue MR-S, lots of stuff

Andys-N20

#16
So easy to swap its ridiculous.
If you swap one at a time it would be easier as the engine won't move.
Good excuse to check your subframe and what not.
204.2 BHP Silver 2000 MR2, 2006 2ZZ engine, Apexi PFC, Zorstec full stainless system exhaust (including 400 cell cat & race header), titanium heat wrap, MRW underdrive pulleys, handmade short ram intake, Hondata intake gasket, Celica gearbox ratio's, LSD.
Edge 306 speakers, Alpine CDE 235BT, sound deadened doors.
Full facelift conversion including bracing, sub frame, the works...

adscan

#17
Swapped both front and rear. Engine seems more solid now. Fingers crossed it has done the trick.

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