Timing chain tensioner?

Started by Zonda_, June 15, 2013, 10:30

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Zonda_

June 15, 2013, 10:30 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
My local garage say it needs a special kit to change it and readings have to be taken off the position the chain is in to make sure it all goes back together correctly. The guide linked to on here doesn't use any kind of kit, what are the garage talking about?
2001 Roadster, che manifold, 40mm lowering springs, BMC Carbon intake mounted behind battery.

Wabbitkilla

#1
June 15, 2013, 10:33 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
The garage are talking about making money.

Seriously though, they're being thorough in checking the chain for stretch, however it doesn't need any special service tools so that's b-s
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Zonda_

#2
June 15, 2013, 10:39 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
That's what I'd assume normally but I've used them for years and they are the kind of place that if it isn't essential they won't do and very often haven't charged me for small jobs. I think he's never done one before but how do you tell someone how to do a job?  I'd do it myself if I thought I could.
2001 Roadster, che manifold, 40mm lowering springs, BMC Carbon intake mounted behind battery.

ChrisGB

#3
June 15, 2013, 11:14 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
House many miles has the car done?
Ex 2GR-FE roadster. Sold it. Idiot.  Now Jaguar XE-S 380. Officially over by the bins.

Zonda_

#4
June 15, 2013, 11:18 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
76k
2001 Roadster, che manifold, 40mm lowering springs, BMC Carbon intake mounted behind battery.

ChrisGB

#5
June 15, 2013, 11:33 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Ok.  Timing chain inspection is due somewhere around 100000  miles.  If you are just replacing the tensioner to fix an oil weep,  there is no need to do anything with the chain itself.
Ex 2GR-FE roadster. Sold it. Idiot.  Now Jaguar XE-S 380. Officially over by the bins.

Zonda_

#6
June 15, 2013, 11:39 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "ChrisGB"Ok.  Timing chain inspection is due somewhere around 100000  miles.  If you are just replacing the tensioner to fix an oil weep,  there is no need to do anything with the chain itself.

Yes it's to fix an oil weep, is it a job I can do myself? The guide on Spyderchat is not very clear and I don't want to get it wrong.
2001 Roadster, che manifold, 40mm lowering springs, BMC Carbon intake mounted behind battery.

Flabby Wings

#7
June 15, 2013, 15:10 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
It is very very easy.  And although I'm reasonably okay with a spanner etc, I am also terrified of getting things wrong so I'm also ridiculously cautious.

Do plenty of research on the web as a whole for Toyota cam (or timing) chain tensioner replacement: I think there's a good guide for the VVTI Corolla or something of the like, ie not necessarily an MR2.

The only thing I learned that I struggled with in this context was hearing the 'click' when you install the new one.  I ended up turning my crank a few degrees - which again isn't a tricky job with a short 19mm spanner - and lo and behold a 'click', and all has been well since.
Blue 2001 Roadster: No precats; Aluminium gear linkage bushings; clear side repeaters; K&N panel filter; Hardtop; new PCV; new timing chain tensioner; . . .

Flabby Wings

#8
June 15, 2013, 15:19 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Actually, this guide is about as good as it gets: http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?42581-How-to-Replace-Timing-Chain-Tensioner-Seal.

I think I've got another link on a memory stick (with lots of other car related bits and pieces on it) at home - I'm out at the moment - I'll post it up later if it's any good.
Blue 2001 Roadster: No precats; Aluminium gear linkage bushings; clear side repeaters; K&N panel filter; Hardtop; new PCV; new timing chain tensioner; . . .

Zonda_

#9
June 15, 2013, 16:00 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "Flabby Wings"Actually, this guide is about as good as it gets: http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?42581-How-to-Replace-Timing-Chain-Tensioner-Seal.

I think I've got another link on a memory stick (with lots of other car related bits and pieces on it) at home - I'm out at the moment - I'll post it up later if it's any good.

Yes please, cheers in advance!
2001 Roadster, che manifold, 40mm lowering springs, BMC Carbon intake mounted behind battery.

mrzwei

#10
June 15, 2013, 17:48 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "Zonda_"My local garage say it needs a special kit to change it and readings have to be taken off the position the chain is in to make sure it all goes back together correctly. The guide linked to on here doesn't use any kind of kit, what are the garage talking about?

He just means that he will have to check that the timing marks are lined up. It is not unheard of for a very loose chain to jump a cog but you would notice that in the performance. A lot of cars recommend special cam locking tools to make sure that nothing moves when the timing chain / cam belt is being changed and the cams can be finely tuned using special kit but this is not the case for the 1ZZ tensioner.

As said, a bit of artistic licence methinks. If you mention anything to him just say that the chain doesn't have to be removed.
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Flabby Wings

#11
June 15, 2013, 18:18 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "Zonda_"
Quote from: "Flabby Wings"Actually, this guide is about as good as it gets: http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?42581-How-to-Replace-Timing-Chain-Tensioner-Seal.

I think I've got another link on a memory stick (with lots of other car related bits and pieces on it) at home - I'm out at the moment - I'll post it up later if it's any good.

Yes please, cheers in advance!
On looking, the above link is the best there is - the Corolla link was for the PCV valve, which I was playing with at the same time.

As I said though, have a good look at that guide and a bit of a read around the subject and you should breeze through it: leave the nuts at the end of the studs (ie. not completely undone) when you prise out the old tensioner; remember which way up it comes in/goes out; give the area a good clean with degreaser or the like after removing the old one; make sure your new one has an o-ring (I bought my tensioner from that popular auction site, and it came with its own o-ring, so I didn't have to remove/replace the old one); make sure you hook the piston of the new one back; and make sure you hear a definite click as the piston is released from the hook, if not turn the crank anti-clockwise a little and you will definitely hear a popping click.
Blue 2001 Roadster: No precats; Aluminium gear linkage bushings; clear side repeaters; K&N panel filter; Hardtop; new PCV; new timing chain tensioner; . . .
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