Cost to fit an engine?

[Zonda_]

£1300 is about right considering the parts and work required to recondition an engine properly.
It depends how complete you want to go with it, I spent nearer £2k in all and that didn't include the labour for the rebuild, removal and refit. The engine is THE major part of the car, why would you think it's going to be cheap? If you buy a second hand engine you could be buying problems, if you buy one of these so-called re-manufactured engines you can't really trust they've done a proper job. You can get the Toyota short engine for £800 inclusive but then you still need chain, slippers, and possible oil and water pumps. Then there's cleaning up the head, grinding in the valves, valve guide oil seals and shims, you still need gaskets oil, coolant, and sealant. Not to mention Toyota recommend new head bolts ... But you can get away with re-using them most of the time.

You can solve problems by doing it properly, or you can just waste money and continue having problems by skimping.

My car cost a grand, spending £1300 on a new engine simply isn't going to happen! I'm happy buying a low miles, late design engine and having it fitted by someone who has plenty of experience.

[tomaky]

End of the day you have to do what is right for you.

[Wabbitkilla]

As long as you can trust you are actually getting a late design engine, you pays your money a d you takes your chances.

[frogger]

Not really taking a chance is it?   l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=33717 l

Reads yur numbers, pays yur money, takes yur facelift engine home.

I'm happy buying a low miles, late design engine and having it fitted by someone who has plenty of experience.

Sounds good to me!

[MattPerformance]

Zonda_ asked me for a price for a complete engine overhaul, including cylinder head refresh, hence the higher price (£1300) that was quoted.  For a bottom end rebuild only (the condition that afflicts 95% of these engines) the price would by just under £1000.

[MattPerformance]

Not really taking a chance is it?   l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=33717 l

Reads yur numbers, pays yur money, takes yur facelift engine home.

I'm happy buying a low miles, late design engine and having it fitted by someone who has plenty of experience.

Sounds good to me!

By "late design" you must mean post 2006, which are hard to come by and generally expensive.

Facelift engines up to 2006 are just as likely to fail as pre-facelift car engines, FACT.  Only in 2006 did the very latest piston design and associated block mods come into effect so unless you get an engine out of a very late car, or one that has had a post 2006 Toyota short block, you will be getting an engine that is just as prone to oil control ring failure as the one that you've got that has just failed.  Obviously if you get one that has already been rebuilt then you'll be in a much better place, as long as you can trust the quality of the rebuild.

Let me also clear something else up (again  s;) s;)  )...  There was, what turned out to be, an interim piston design change in 2002.  It was not done at the time of the facelift.  There are many 02 pre-facelift cars with such pistons as, of course, as all facelift cars up to 2006.  However, the piston mod was not successful, hence the need for the later mods.  I have built plenty of engines with this piston design (right up to 05 cars) so there is no evidence from my side to suggest that they are any better whatsoever.  The key to longevity of engines affected by oil control ring failure is good servicing.  From my experience it's rare to see an engine fail within 100k with absolutely complete service history (every year AND within 10k).  Buying a second hand engine without absolute knowledge of its mileage and service history is a risk - just one missed service and the damage is done... no oil flushing etc will reverse the sticking oil control ring condition and it will only get worse.

[steve b]

Matt would there be extra cost if you were delivered a smoker and asked to do a rebuild but were also handed a box with baffled sump, forged pistons and rods as well?

[chimpman]

Not really taking a chance is it?   l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=33717 l

Reads yur numbers, pays yur money, takes yur facelift engine home.

I'm happy buying a low miles, late design engine and having it fitted by someone who has plenty of experience.

Sounds good to me!

By "late design" you must mean post 2006, which are hard to come by and generally expensive.

Facelift engines up to 2006 are just as likely to fail as pre-facelift car engines, FACT.  Only in 2006 did the very latest piston design and associated block mods come into effect so unless you get an engine out of a very late car, or one that has had a post 2006 Toyota short block, you will be getting an engine that is just as prone to oil control ring failure as the one that you've got that has just failed.  Obviously if you get one that has already been rebuilt then you'll be in a much better place, as long as you can trust the quality of the rebuild.

Let me also clear something else up (again  s;) s;)  )...  There was, what turned out to be, an interim piston design change in 2002.  It was not done at the time of the facelift.  There are many 02 pre-facelift cars with such pistons as, of course, as all facelift cars up to 2006.  However, the piston mod was not successful, hence the need for the later mods.  I have built plenty of engines with this piston design (right up to 05 cars) so there is no evidence from my side to suggest that they are any better whatsoever.  The key to longevity of engines affected by oil control ring failure is good servicing.  From my experience it's rare to see an engine fail within 100k with absolutely complete service history (every year AND within 10k).  Buying a second hand engine without absolute knowledge of its mileage and service history is a risk - just one missed service and the damage is done... no oil flushing etc will reverse the sticking oil control ring condition and it will only get worse.

I noticed the previous owner always got the engine flushed at each oil change. Is that recommended then?

[MattPerformance]

Engine flushes are not a bad thing to keep things as clean as possible in there, but, they don't reverse the build up of carbon deposits on the pistons (in the ring recesses specifically) once that has begun.

[cabbydave]

So whats the warrenty on these rebuilt engines?

[MattPerformance]

Matt would there be extra cost if you were delivered a smoker and asked to do a rebuild but were also handed a box with baffled sump, forged pistons and rods as well?

Hi Steve
There would be some extra time required to gap the rings but that would be offset by the fact that you'd effectively be supying your own rings, so no extra charge in fact.  I'd also recommend ARP studs at the very least for the heads.

[MattPerformance]

So whats the warrenty on these rebuilt engines?

12 months warranty, unlimited mileage. Subject to servicing of course.

[steve b]

Matt would there be extra cost if you were delivered a smoker and asked to do a rebuild but were also handed a box with baffled sump, forged pistons and rods as well?

Hi Steve
There would be some extra time required to gap the rings but that would be offset by the fact that you'd effectively be supying your own rings, so no extra charge in fact.  I'd also recommend ARP studs at the very least for the heads.

That's nice to know as I do love these cars and mine even though I said I wouldn't, it seems to be going down the track route and I like normally aspirated for fun predictable power delivery and simplicity / light weight.  However I would like a road orientated car and a low boost small turbo I think would be ideal.  I was looking at the monkey wrench kits which look very tidy, GT2860RS as entry level seems to big a turbo though (I had one on my mx5), if I could do one of these kits but GT2554 so 210bhp ish spooling up at 2200rpm I think it'd be a nice road car with all the toys AC, good stereo etc.

Effectively turn a year 2000 £1k car into a £8k one all done but I'd take that over a ropy old Elise or vx220 every time.