looking to fit an induction kit

ty222 · December 22, 2013, 00:44

Hey just looking for some help really,never really done any engine mods of any sort and now im looking to install an induction kit. Basically im just wondering if anyone could tell me which pipes I should remove/swap with aftermarket ones and also if I remove the current airbox. I know this is all simple stuff just I have never applied myself to this area before,any help would be much appreciated.

AndyM · December 22, 2013, 00:54

Hi mate,

What kit have you got? Where are you mounting it?

Normally a full induction kit would replace everything back to the throttle body (which means removing the airbox as you mention). Basically if you follow that back towards the block there is a 90 degree pipe that then joins the engine. It is this pipe that is essentially replaced by the induction kit however, because it's no longer used (and you need space), you can take out everything else back to the wheel arch inlet.

They aren't too hard (it was the first mod I ever did myself back when I was driving a Type-R Civic) but make sure you don't bite off more than you can chew if you're new to it. If you are unsure of anything then get a bit of help (or post up here) before doing it to reduce the risk of getting something wrong. s:)

s:)

Andy

onion86 · December 22, 2013, 08:42

Further to what Andy said, make sure you reinstall the MAF sensor into the new pipe.

Just let us know what kit you have and we should be able to advise. Also first mod I did... but on a Civic 1.5 s;-) ;-) s;-)

ty222 · December 22, 2013, 11:18

Thanks for the replies,i havnt purchased one yet ive just been reading up about it and have decided this is the mod I will do now, is there any youd recommend?

AckersMR2 · December 22, 2013, 18:32

How much do you want to spend, the cheap ones are just that so I would avoid. I had an AEM one on my two, I think they're around £150, it ran from the throttle body down to behind the rear wheel arch, used to make a lovely roar as it sucked the air in s:)

s:)

Quite a job to fit as the bumper has to come off but I managed it ok and there's plenty people on here who have fitted one who can give advice (myself included)

mr mr2 · December 22, 2013, 18:40

AEM fitted to mine makes a lovely sound s:D

s:D

Andys-N20 · December 23, 2013, 12:35

The only problem with the filter in the arch like above is if you decide to use your MR2 as a boat when you come to a flooded road s:lol: :lol: s:lol: you might suck up water... The engine cannot compress it and just like that you snap a con-rod or something... Then its new engine time.

AckersMR2 · December 23, 2013, 13:05

Quote from: "Andys-N20"The only problem with the filter in the arch like above is if you decide to use your MR2 as a boat when you come to a flooded road s:lol: :lol: s:lol: you might suck up water... The engine cannot compress it and just like that you snap a con-rod or something... Then its new engine time.

It's ok though because the upturned manhole cover will stop you before your air filter has a chance to ingest any water s;-) ;-) s;-)

ty222 · January 3, 2014, 18:55

as ive let my plans to turn it into a boat go, i have now purchased a pipe and an air filter and they arrived today

m http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blitz-Advance ... true&rt=nc m

will i need anything else to go with these ?

Turns out the pipe doesnt connect or actually do anything so if i was looking to replace everything id need a new pipe, what is the least id have to replace to get a nice roar effect when accelerating?

ray835 · January 8, 2014, 23:02

you will need a maf adapter and silicone hoses depending on which way you route it ....

purplepowermonster · January 9, 2014, 07:25

I've been looking for a MAF adapter but to no avail, if you find one can you pop it in your post? Cheers

AckersMR2 · January 9, 2014, 09:04

The hose is surplus to requirements, unless you can route it somehow from the side air intake to the filter? (But then there's one already doing that over the wheel arch)
I did think maybe you could cut the maf adaptor from the original pipe but if I recall it's too close to the filter box to leave you any room to clamp your new filter round the pipe?
Blitz do a kit for the mr2 so you could try asking if you can buy just the parts you need?
m http://www.blitz-uk.co.uk/ProductItem-246.aspx m

A cheaper option though might be something like this, use the link pipe and sundries to connect to your Blitz filter?
m http://bit.ly/1eIwVPt m

The thing to remember though is you want cold air coming into the filter, that Blitz may have a heat shield around it but if it's sucking air from within the engine bay then it's going to be warm/hot air sapping the engines power and performance, so you really need to either move the filter further away (ie like the AEM does) or you need to feed cold air to the filter via a hose and the shortest most direct route is best.
Good luck.

ty222 · January 9, 2014, 10:59

what exactly does the maf sensor do,can i not just drill out a hole in the new pipe and screw it down? now this may sound idiotic,but i am still getting to grips with this preformance side. i put the air filter on with a pipe coming off the air box so i had Blitz air filter---piper----airbox---pipe---engine. i did not hear any change when i gave it some revs, does the air box need to be removed for change?

AndyM · January 9, 2014, 11:11

An induction kit replaces the air box. See my first reply...

Quote from: "AndyM"Normally a full induction kit would replace everything back to the throttle body (which means removing the airbox as you mention). Basically if you follow that back towards the block there is a 90 degree pipe that then joins the engine. It is this pipe that is essentially replaced by the induction kit however, because it's no longer used (and you need space), you can take out everything else back to the wheel arch inlet.

vinp182 · January 9, 2014, 11:16

IMO you'd be best off getting a decent pannel filter and a markiii pipe instead of an induction kit

AckersMR2 · January 9, 2014, 13:02

Too be honest, I think it's going to be a bit of a bodge getting what you've bought to fit?

The best improvement for the cheapest outlay as vino182 said is a performance panel filter which fits in place of the standard Toyota one in the air box and then a markiii pipe (this is just a link pipe to replace the narrowing trumpet style standard one so it allows more air to the airbox fastest and the filter allows the same again through to the engine) that is if you can get one, they're not an off the shelf item. Although it probably won't give your the roar sound your after when you floor it.

The MAF is necessary as it measures air flow/temp etc and feeds that info to the engines ECU so that it can calculate the correct air/fuel mixture (that's my understanding of it) just drilling a hole and screwing it down will likely allow for air leaks giving it false readings?

For the roaring, sucking air sound your after you really need an aftermarket induction kit, preferably one made for the 2 and not what you've bought I'm afraid s:(

s:( but to get the best performance out of them as I said you need to feed it cold air.

Ultimately what your after is getting colder air and more if it to the engine, the sideline benefit of this is a nice roaring air sound when you boot it, some induction kits that are positioned badly just suck in warm air from around the engine so you may get a nice sound but the car is actually slower?

ty222 · January 9, 2014, 13:44

Thanks for all of your help on this,before reading your last message i decided ill give something a go.
so i removed the old air box and fitted my air filter without the maf sensor,i left it completely unplugged. now a couple of problems have arisen(shocker haha) when its unplugged i can only get to 3000 revs then itl drop down then go back uop and repeat. so i plugged the sensor in ,but not fitted just hanging loose,this lead to even worse now the car starts struggles for 2 seconds and cuts out. any ideas? heres a pic of my current fitting i have got a cold air intake going to the air filter.

Wabbitkilla · January 9, 2014, 14:06

I'm treading very carefully here, if you continue in this way with the car you are going to destroy it.
The MAF sensor is incredibly important, it measures the amount of air and it's temperature going into the engine to adjust fuelling, it also relies on some shaped veins in the pipework to function correctly. If you bugger it up you can and will destroy the engine altogether.

If you want an air intake for the car get one designed for it, don't bodge it and don't think the MAF is an option!
Or put it back together and step away from the car.

vinp182 · January 9, 2014, 14:08

You need a custom pipe with maf adaptor in mate.. The car wont run properly without the maf

Something like this m http://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/produ ... ts_id=1145 m

Should take an exhaust place about 15 mins tops to knock you something up if you supply the adaptor or a bit longer if they have to make the adaptor too

AndyM · January 9, 2014, 14:12

Ok... the MAF is an essential sensor for the ECU to be able to set fuelling, timing, etc... as it's the only way the car can tell how much air is going in. If you don't have it plugged in (or worse plugged in but monitoring the air in the engine bay) it is going to be sending wild readings that will completely confuse the ECU. This could lead to a number of knock-on effects such as engine faults, messed up fuel trims, crazy fuel management/efficiency issues etc... but also could damage the MAF (which is pretty sensitive and expensive) or in an extreme case cause the engine to start working in ways that could do longer term damage.

You need it in the right place, secured properly, or you're going to invite some issues.

Also if you are going for a performance increase you need to be aware that you won't get much with just an intake modification, and that if it's done wrong it'll probably give you a performance decrease. Also, if you are going for noise then you need to also be aware that as the intake is behind you you won't get the roar you might experience in a FF car with a similar kit and set your expectations accordingly.

Please take this as constructive criticism but I think my earlier post rings slightly true here...

Quote from: "AndyM"They aren't too hard but make sure you don't bite off more than you can chew if you're new to it. If you are unsure of anything then get a bit of help (or post up here) before doing it to reduce the risk of getting something wrong. s:) s:)

I would recommend doing some more reading, making sure you've got all the right bits and possibly getting some hands on help before going further with it. If you need to drive the car I'd put the stock setup back in for now too.

ty222 · January 9, 2014, 14:30

great reply thanks, ill get reverting right away

ty222 · January 9, 2014, 17:04

ok so i was ready to take it off,but then i had an idea using part of the old airbox to hold the maf sensor then i came up with this little beauty.

Put it on very compact,but i guess thats a good thing. Started the car up and its not working well!

i appreciate all the help you have given to aid me with this and i hope that it can also help someone else.

mrzwei · January 9, 2014, 17:51

Can you post a photo of that actually fitted to the engine?

AckersMR2 · January 9, 2014, 18:36

Well theres no going back now is there! s:scared: :scared: s:scared:

Some might say you've been brave tackling what you have with your limited knowledge of modifications, others might call it something else but theres no point in going into all that, I suggest you don't do anything else or start the car until you have shown us a picture of what you have set up before you do any more damage, and I don't mean any of that in a condescending manor, we are just trying to help you out of a situation you have got yourself in.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and guess that during all this you didn't disconnect the negative terminal to the battery? With all the "modifications" you've made and the starting and stopping of the engine the ECU now has no idea what the hell is going on. Once we've seen what you have done and if OK, although to be honest its never going to be anything better than a bodge, then I would suggest disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 10 mins and then connect it back up, this will reset the ECU. Failing that then you could have damaged the MAF which wouldn't surprise me as you ran the car with it dangling in the engine bay s:shock: :shock: s:shock:

Another point, have you got the air filter housing/cone thing held securely in there on some sort of bracket to the chassis of the car or is it just dangling by its own weight on the end of the link hose? If it is it will bounce around and fall off so your also going to have to sort something out there too?

parker455 · January 9, 2014, 19:24

After reading this I think it's safe to say that you should step away from the car and let a professional to do it. OR if there's any members close to you ask them to come and help you out if possible.

Your engine is at risk from all this and by the sounds of it an ecu reset is in order before replacing the standard parts.