Changing rad tomorrow advice needed

Pavett1990 · February 3, 2014, 19:03

Hey guys my new rad is due tomorrow..

I'm looking to get it fitted ASAP.. So I'm going to wake up in the morning and start stripping the old rad down and get it out before the new one arrives..

I'm looking for any tips or advice? Also I'm I right in saying it's 10.4litres of coolant?

Thanks in advance

Joesson · February 3, 2014, 20:02

There are several threads on here about replacing the rad.
Generally the hardest part is getting all the coolant in and all the air out.
My system was full of new Toyota long life fluid, which is quite costly.
Not wanting to loose too much I clamped off both radiator hoses to avoid draining the complete system.
I also managed to drain the radiator into a container after I had removed it.
Refilling and bleeding was done with just 1 L of coolant as air had not got into the system.
Replacement Jubilee type hose clips will ensure an easier refit when replacing the rad.
Reuse of the existing bleed valves fitted with new O rings will allow easier access for bleeding than those supplied with your eBay rad. Otherwise this seems to do the job well and is very much identical to the OE rad in appearance.
I hope you have use of a (warm)garage and/or the vweather is kind to you.
Good luck will likely follow your preparation.

nathanMR2 · February 3, 2014, 20:22

Also getting the rear of the car as high as possible helps. Take your time and give your self plenty of time.

shnazzle · February 3, 2014, 20:45

5L was enough for me to replace what I had lost all over the north east motorways, twice. Once when I changed the radiator, and once after I realised the car was bleeding coolant due to not replacing the o-rings on the taps
Unless you drain the entire system front to back, you won't need 10.4L

Pavett1990 · February 3, 2014, 20:54

As far as I'm aware the lot if fluid has come out.. All the cores have disintegrated and there's now a nice 50p size hole in the lower part of rad.. There's no fluid what so ever in the bottle in the back.. I'll be doing it in a garage hopefully but it is quite tight.. So may have to be done outside..

Removing it? Is it as simple as disconnecting hoses.. Unbolting and lifting out? Or do I need to remove bumper, slam panel etc?

loadswine · February 3, 2014, 20:55

See if you can clamp off the main hoses in and out of the rad, it will save a ton of time and grief. Oh, and coolant!

Pavett1990 · February 3, 2014, 21:12

If I'm honest I'm not sure there's much if any in it lol

Joesson · February 3, 2014, 21:46

I removed the frunk plastics and spare wheel compartment and also the 2 braces under the spare wheel compartment.
It could still be worth clamping the hoses if you have clamps available.
I made two out of 4 pieces of timber, 50 x 20 mm x 150 mm or there about and 4 pieces of studding, threaded rod, about 150mmlong together with some nuts and washers, these were assembled around the hoses and then tightened carefully to close of the hoses.
You could first determine if there is coolant in the hosesby sqeezing the hose hard with your fingers you will feel hear or see coolant come out of your leaky rad.
You can then remove the two top brackets holding the radiator in place. The bottom is held by pegs on the rad if I remember correctly.
Remove the hose clips, mine were OE spring type and I used broad nosed pliers, mole gripsmay help
Pull the hoses from the rad and then the rad can be lifted out leaving the clamps and hoses on the flow and return pipes.
As above I replaced the OE clips with Jubilee type, much easier to refit.
If you do not have much fluid in the system give yourself some time to refill the system. There are methods described on threads on here.
I managed all this OK in my garage, remember you will need to get to each end of the car.
However I do understand that in worst case scenario you will need to get under the sides of the car to bleed vents under covers . If that was necessary you might need to push the car out to get under the sides but this can be done after installing the rad.
It is all very straight forward, just the bleeding part is aptly described!

markiii · February 3, 2014, 22:02

Before you do anything

Clamp the hoses for the heater matrix where they come through the firewall

Don't unclamp them until you have finished bleeding

The heater matrix is a crap design and an absolute swine to bleed. I'd happily leave the coolant in there unchanged rather than have to bleed it from dry

shnazzle · February 3, 2014, 22:10

Quote from: "Pavett1990"As far as I'm aware the lot if fluid has come out.. All the cores have disintegrated and there's now a nice 50p size hole in the lower part of rad.. There's no fluid what so ever in the bottle in the back.. I'll be doing it in a garage hopefully but it is quite tight.. So may have to be done outside..

Removing it? Is it as simple as disconnecting hoses.. Unbolting and lifting out? Or do I need to remove bumper, slam panel etc?

My expansion tank was empty and drive was absolutely covered in coolant. It was pouring out of the radiator. Still only 5L s:)

s:)
Not to mention I drove about 10 miles leaving a trail of coolant on the A1

Andys-N20 · February 3, 2014, 22:46

If you are lucky enough to live near a steep hill park with the nose pointing uphill and no need to clamp the pipes swap out the rad, spin the car around and then you can bleed it. That's what I always do.
Bleeding it can be a nightmare sometimes.

Pavett1990 · February 4, 2014, 08:38

It's arrived.. But I'm confused as to where it bolts into car.. And where fluid goes? Lol

nathanMR2 · February 4, 2014, 08:42

It sits in little rubber hangers and sort of clips into place. Fluid goes in from the back of the car and out the bleed nipples

Pavett1990 · February 4, 2014, 09:00

Ahh brilliant cheers nath I was a tad confused lol

Joesson · February 4, 2014, 09:29

It's arrived so your already half way to completion!
When installed the top valve on the rad is your bleed screw, the bottom one is for draining the rad which you won't be doing for a while. remember you will want to get to these with the rad installed. If the same as mine you will see that the new bleed and drain valves would be difficult to undo when installed. Hence the suggestion to change for the OE ones which should be easier to undo. The new O rings worked for me but not for at least one other. Take particular care with the bottom drain valve.
There are various suggestions for how to change the rad and bleed the system. Whatever way you decide just be methodical and take your time, particularly with the bleeding, but it will all come out eventually.
Good luck.

Pavett1990 · February 4, 2014, 09:33

Mine came with nothing.. Just the rad itself.. So I'm going to have to take the old one out and have a look at what I got altogether

Pavett1990 · February 4, 2014, 10:08

It's in the garage ready for a transplant s:D

s:D

StuC · February 4, 2014, 10:30

Ash, Ash... that's the wrong end mate! s;-) ;-) s;-)

Pavett1990 · February 4, 2014, 10:56

Lol is there anyone here that's taken a rad off the 2 who is willing for me to give them a ring?

nathanMR2 · February 4, 2014, 11:10

You can call me if you mate Pav

Pavett1990 · February 4, 2014, 11:27

2 battle wounds but have the 1st hose off

I'm such a baby haha

StuC · February 4, 2014, 11:30

MAN UP!! s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

Pavett1990 · February 4, 2014, 11:41

Lol GOOD NEWS.... Dacia are bring out a new sandaro!!

Not really but I beat the MR2!!

And it shows how little fluid was in it

Andys-N20 · February 4, 2014, 11:43

Uuhhhh, nasty wounds...
Glad you have sussed it.

Jay67 · February 4, 2014, 11:45

Quote from: "StuC"MAN UP!! s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

steady on Stu, Ash isn't normally allowed near tools so he's doing well! s:D

s:D