Zero header vs Che

[yoan]

Hi to all,
I call this I yoan I is part of the community MR- S in France .   s:D s:D  

Unfortunately in our comunity , nobody has yet to use this product "zero exhaust" .
I turn to you because I have some questions for you on this topic.
My car has a Che header and Che Downpipe and Cobra Exhaust .
I will wish changed collector is stay in 4.2.1
Zero is in wholesales in your country, seems to be a very good alternative to TRD Verily that is very expensive .

I know the build quality of it , I saw that he has some here who are getting on 2ZZ .
1ZZ but it gives t he ?
it is better to change zero header, compared with che ?
Have you good return on the product level and power couple?

I contact Kevin the socity and my counselor informed me here because he had SEVERAL head of zero here .

Excuse me I can be wrong search the forum, but English is not my language , and I have difficulty to understand and write.

Thank you for your advice Yoan   s:D s:D

[nathanMR2]

I can't tell you the real differences you'll gain between the CHE and the zero to compare however looking at the graphs of people's mods and ecu upgrades it appears that the zero manifold yields good results. The build quality is probably a little better than the CHE too.

This data might help you with the comparisons

 l viewtopic.php?f=7&t=27521 l

To get the best out of it you would ideally need a remap and ecu upgrade

[FGrob]

I The build quality is probably a little better than the CHE too.

Nathan

That's an understatement - they are like chalk and cheese, the Che being made on China and the Zero being made in the UK out of real stainless steel with equal length pipes and tuned collector - shakes head   s:scared: :scared: s:scared:    s:scared: :scared: s:scared:

[nathanMR2]

No i complete agree Rob. The CHE serves a purpose and its a fair bit cheaper but the Zero is certainly far better made.

[Wabbitkilla]

I would need to use Google translate to speak French so I'll do my best with understandable English.

I have had both manifolds on my car as you can see from the performance thread.

The Che manifold is good for removing the pre-catalysts and not keeping the chambers where the pre-cats were. It is broadly based on the TRD manifold but a lot less expensive. It claims to be stainless steel, which the pipework is but the flanges are mild steel. The pipework is a similar diameter as the original manifold, it fits in exactly the same space with all the same connecting points. There are also some of them where the O2 sensor bungs are very poor quality resulting in poorly fitting sensors, it is not unknown for a sensor to get blown out. There are some problems with them, sometimes they need to be stressed to get into position, and they can fracture if the bottom brackets and not used to brace the manifold on the engine block. Power is not improved without a piggy back ecu or standalone but there is marginally more torque and a better sound.

The Zero manifold is very different, It is not a copy of anything else. The tubes are of a larger diameter and stronger stainless steel, their routing is much smoother than the Che manifold and original. Connections are welded at a much narrower angle and the internals are ground smoothly removing weld edges and troughs. The manifold fits in exactly the same space as the original and is a 4-2 with the same connecting flanges. There are brackets for the bracing at the bottom of the engine block, they are not very robust and can break off with vibration and stress, however the manifold is so strong that it hasn't caused a problem so far. The manifold does improve both torque and power output positively even without an ecu modification, though obviously to make the most of it tuning is your best option.

Overall I recommend the Zero manifold as it is much better quality and gives performance improvements you should be able to feel. It depends how much you feel about the car and performance, sometimes it is worth paying more for better.

For a true 4-1 manifold and exhaust you would need to look at the PPE products and their OBX copies, but they have a tendency to make the engine much more peaky, i.e. Outright power increase, but torque sacrificed meaning you driving in lower gears revving the engine more.

[yoan]

Thank you all for your very explicit answers.

My choice it'll turn to zero!

I already has a CamCon on my vehicle, after a re setting, I think pulling some remaining exhaust level horses.
I will keep you informed of the positive power output this one on my 2nd pass on dyno! (With che header vs. zero).   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[nathanMR2]

Be interesting to see the results

[OldMan]

Overall I recommend the Zero manifold as it is much better quality and gives performance improvements you should be able to feel. It depends how much you feel about the car and performance, sometimes it is worth paying more for better.

For a true 4-1 manifold and exhaust you would need to look at the PPE products and their OBX copies, but they have a tendency to make the engine much more peaky, i.e. Outright power increase, but torque sacrificed meaning you driving in lower gears revving the engine more.

I concur.
Any currently available cheap manifold (aka "header") is a waste of money.
If you insist upon going cheap, Che is a good choice due to his product support.

Only expensive headers are worth-while.

The PPE header must be modified to work correctly with the engine's control computer.
http://www.spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?56490-PPE-OBX-O2-sensor-exhaust-header-fix-solution

The Zero Exhausts header is a no-problem high-quality direct replacement for the standard manifold.

[yoan]

Zero header is in order!   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

I have a question: I have set my Camcon bench roller with my current set up,  if I just change my manifold by zero.

Changing manifold influences it on my air fuel ratio for readjust my AFR Camcon or not?

[OldMan]

Zero header is in order!   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

I have been told that the Zero header can be ordered without the heat shield.
The Zero heat shield resonates at certain RPMs, and sounds terrible.
Contact ZeroExhausts and cancel the heat shield, if you can.

[Wabbitkilla]

I must admit my heat shield didn't last, the tabs broke off the header and the shield itself fractured around one of the bolt holes.
I had completely forgotten about it and have my header completely wrapped.

[lamcote]

Does anyone know if you can use the standard heat shield with the Zero exhaust manifold? Also does it need modified O2 sensors and or sensor wiring?
Thanks

[Wabbitkilla]

Standard heatshield is a no.
I found I could keep the wires unmodified if I moved the plugs off their holders.

[nadeemxb]

Glad I caught this!  I was about to cut and extend mine tonight to fit my Zero header.  I'll just move the plugs in this case!  s:) s:)

[FGrob]

If you are looking at the engine the sensor on the right is the one that can give you problems, you can solve this by fitting a post cat sensor which has the long lead fitted, otherwise do has Nic suggested.

[Wabbitkilla]

Yes, if and when you need replacement sensors just order DOX 0206 post-cat sensors and wiring is a doddle.

[FGrob]

Yes, if and when you need replacement sensors just order DOX 0206 post-cat sensors and wiring is a doddle.

You by the pool by any chance   s:D s:D    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

[nadeemxb]

Will keep a note of that number.  Thanks both.