Resistor fix forP0141

Started by markyp, March 29, 2014, 18:59

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markyp

March 29, 2014, 18:59 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
I have two fault codes on my 2 ,they are P0141 and P0135. Reading various threads i have found these are the sensor heater circuits.
I can't find the thread or how to for the Resistor mod, as a work around.
Could someone please tell me what ohm resistor do i need to buy? as a temporary repair.  s:? :? s:?

StuC

#1
March 29, 2014, 19:05 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
You can only use the resistor fix to sort out the p0141 for the post cat sensor.
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markyp

#2
March 29, 2014, 19:08 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "StuC"You can only use the resistor fix to sort out the p0141 for the post cat sensor.

Ok at least that will save me a bit of money......do you know the resistor needed.

StuC

#3
March 29, 2014, 19:17 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Fairly sure it is a 15ohm one but I can't remember the power size.
It is a big chunky one.
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markyp

#4
March 29, 2014, 19:25 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
So 15 ohm resistor.....i just need to know the Watt?

markyp

#5
March 29, 2014, 19:31 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "markyp"So 15 ohm resistor.....i just need to know the Watt?

Sorry i should have thought before asking.....15 ohms at 12v= 9.6 watts and 0.8 amps, i think...  s:oops: :oops: s:oops:

markyp

#6
March 29, 2014, 19:50 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
This 15 ohm  resistor is going to get quite warm....so i am guessing it is mounted to the bodywork as a heat sink.
And probably needs to be a higher wattage around 25watts.

StuC

#7
March 29, 2014, 19:57 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
The ones I have seen in the past have a heat sink as part of the resistor. Hence the chunky comment. When I get on the PC I'll get the link. RS do them.
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Wabbitkilla

#8
March 29, 2014, 19:59 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
15 to 18 ohm have been used by me, minimum 25Watt. I have one floating in mid-air at the moment but it is obviously best to heatsink it.
Cute & fluffy animals were definitely hurt during the production of this post, there're plenty more where they came from
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StuC

#9
March 29, 2014, 20:18 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
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markyp

#10
March 29, 2014, 20:21 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "StuC"The ones I have seen in the past have a heat sink as part of the resistor. Hence the chunky comment. When I get on the PC I'll get the link. RS do them.

Thanks Stu....that will be great. It's helpful to use a tried and tested method.

Just one sensor to buy.

markyp

#11
March 29, 2014, 20:41 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"15 to 18 ohm have been used by me, minimum 25Watt. I have one floating in mid-air at the moment but it is obviously best to heatsink it.

I will have a look on RS for a 15 ohm 25 watt+ resistor and sparkplugs for a Denso DOX-0204 sensor....  s:) :) s:)   Thanks for the help.

SteveJ

#12
March 29, 2014, 20:54 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "StuC"You can only use the resistor fix to sort out the p0141 for the post cat sensor.

You can replace any of the heaters with a resistor - in fact the primary ones are less likely to need the heater than the post-cat sensor due to the temperature of the exhaust gas. To ensure a balanced result, disconnect the remaining working heater and replace it with a resistor too.

markyp

#13
March 29, 2014, 21:23 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "SteveJ"
Quote from: "StuC"You can only use the resistor fix to sort out the p0141 for the post cat sensor.

You can replace any of the heaters with a resistor - in fact the primary ones are less likely to need the heater than the post-cat sensor due to the temperature of the exhaust gas. To ensure a balanced result, disconnect the remaining working heater and replace it with a resistor too.

Has anyone else replaced the pre-cat 02 sensor heater elements with resistors, and are they working well.  I am all for saving money.........but my car must be safe and run well.
Three resistors,heat sink paste, a bit of wiring and fitting will be my cheapest working option.
Thanks for the sound advice.

Wabbitkilla

#14
March 29, 2014, 21:33 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Personal feeling is that resistors on the precat sensors should only be a short term workaround.
It may affect fuelling at the cold end of running and cold weather but when an engine is cold is when the most damage can be done.
I would much prefer to replace those sensors if they have gone faulty.
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markyp

#15
March 29, 2014, 21:47 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"Personal feeling is that resistors on the precat sensors should only be a short term workaround.
It may affect fuelling at the cold end of running and cold weather but when an engine is cold is when the most damage can be done.
I would much prefer to replace those sensors if they have gone faulty.

That sounds sensible....I will fit a resistor to the after cat 02 sensor permanently, and also fit  a resistor to each of the pre-cat sensors as a temporary fix.
I can then spend a bit extra on some decent tyres, and as the car is new to me i am still finding things to spend my money on....  s:mrgreen: :mrgreen: s:mrgreen:  

Thank you for the advice....  s:) :) s:)

mrzwei

#16
March 29, 2014, 22:01 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
One for the anoraks, 'The output voltage is strongly influenced by temperature since the electrolyte ... does not become conductive below 300c. Ideally the sensor should work at about 600c. The response time at 300c is several seconds but at 600c the sensor reacts in less than 50ms.' (Haynes Automotive Electrical Manual).
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markyp

#17
March 29, 2014, 22:07 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "mrzwei"One for the anoraks, 'The output voltage is strongly influenced by temperature since the electrolyte ... does not become conductive below 300c. Ideally the sensor should work at about 600c. The response time at 300c is several seconds but at 600c the sensor reacts in less than 50ms.' (Haynes Automotive Electrical Manual).

It's ok as i am a bit of a closet geek....  s:D :D s:D    s:D :D s:D

redarrow

#18
March 29, 2014, 22:10 Last Edit: March 29, 2014, 22:18 by redarrow
I am here here we go

I have read nearly all the forum
And the truth is the resistor only
Works for the heater 02 ,
Your need to buy x2 o2 sensors.

Why bother be honest go on ebay and get
A secoundhand desno 02 before you
Give you car a illness,

You are driving a sports car , and it old
They cost money to have , i was told this,
If you ant got money in the back pocket
For emergancy bits to keep the car going dont
Bother getting one, there no real shortcuts keeping the
Car working properly it all cost's , getting involved
In parts that are suppose to work like the original
Only cost you in the long run when you need to replace to the oreganal part,
Remeber it might work for some but not for everyone .
[size=85]These are the dreaded code your get with cheap 02 sensors.
P0135 drivers side position. (o2 sensor heater malfunction (bank 1 sensor 1)
P0155 passengers side position. (o2 sensor heater malfunction (bank 2 sensor 1)
P0141 passengers side down below exhaust position. (o2 sensor heater malfunction (bank 1 sensor 2[/size]

stupink

#19
March 29, 2014, 22:15 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Sort of off topic sort of not,  has anyone measured/tested a "faulty" sensor??  i've never known a heater to die, but on this forum it seems pretty much common place, are they actually dead, or is the ECU just uber fussy and picking up on a change of resistance? maybe other manufacturers don't check the heater function?
2001 1ZZ turbo. 293hp home build all the way

redarrow

#20
March 29, 2014, 22:23 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
The 02 dies it losses it power volts energy.

You can get a old and new one next to eachover
And heat them up with a blow lamp ,wait till there both
Really hot , color wite , then test there voltage , you notice the old
One has lack of voltage=blown.

Your need a multimeter and a blow torch and
Vice to clamp them in.

It a real red neck test this way and very dangerous
But works be very carefull.....

The ecu get a reading of the o2 in volts while it hot
 Glowing wite from the mainfold, and if
Them volts are low when the heat of the
O2 is correct temp a error comes up=blown
[size=85]These are the dreaded code your get with cheap 02 sensors.
P0135 drivers side position. (o2 sensor heater malfunction (bank 1 sensor 1)
P0155 passengers side position. (o2 sensor heater malfunction (bank 2 sensor 1)
P0141 passengers side down below exhaust position. (o2 sensor heater malfunction (bank 1 sensor 2[/size]

markyp

#21
March 31, 2014, 19:43 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Bought three 15 ohm 25watt resistors of ebay for £8......And will take some pictures when fitted.

markyp

#22
April 12, 2014, 19:16 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
My 2 has been running fine with the three 15 ohm resistors fitted and no eml fault codes.....  s:) :) s:)  
 m http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o74 ... 9179a2.jpg m

.

We have travelled about 300 miles this week  and apart from a noisy gearbox all is well.

OldMan

#23
April 13, 2014, 08:03 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "markyp"I have two fault codes on my 2 ,they are P0141 and P0135. Reading various threads i have found these are the sensor heater circuits.
I can't find the thread or how to for the Resistor mod, as a work around.
Could someone please tell me what ohm resistor do i need to buy? as a temporary repair.  s:? :? s:?
The major complaint I have in restoring used sportscars  is the previous owners' "saving money" by using duck-tape, chewing-gum, and short-cuts.

Either fix it correctly, or sell it to some dope "as-is".
If your Porsche is not anhydrous, there IS a substitute.

Mightyquin

#24
April 13, 2014, 18:21 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
I tried the resistor fix for the rear 02 sensor and it works very well.

The sensor still works, it's just the heater circuit which has failed, but after 5 mins the sensor will be up to temperature anyway. Call it a bodge if you like but it makes no difference to the car and costs much less.
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