Q&A Engine modifications and performance gains for N/A 1ZZ

Started by Mad Matt, November 26, 2009, 16:26

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Anonymous

Quote from: "markiii"the VM180 has more than 138bhp?

And no precats. Didnt stop them developing oval bore though.

markiii

hmm do you have a source for that? been playing with roadster for 10 years and hadn't heard that before
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

Anonymous

 m http://auto-specs.zercustoms.com/t/toyo ... tions.html m

Im sure you have a much greater knowledge of the car than me Mark. I just spent some time researching the VM180 after Matt asked a question on the subject last week.

I also read that Rogue had had one for a while which they stated had 155bhp. It blew, so they did their V6 thing.

There is also one for sale at the mo in Japan, at $20,000. I think the ad mentions the same output, but cant find it now!

If Im wrong I can only hold my hands up.

markiii

thanks Dick, wasn't trying to come across as an "I'm a  roadster god and know more than you" kind of post, just genuinely interested in seeing if its true and what they did if they did anything
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

Anonymous

No worries. Id never heard of it till Matt piped up. Very little info. Must have been a limitted edition pre MR-S which Toyota c*cked up on, announcing  the title before development was complete. It had a tidy wide kit and optional waletail. The jap market one for sale claims 500 miles only.

Anonymous


Wabbitkilla

Quote from: "dick2ski"Fell over this today.

 m http://www.tradecarview.com/used_car/ja ... /10725641/ m


A bit odd, I thought the 180 had better wheels and someone has remove the BFW
Cute & fluffy animals were definitely hurt during the production of this post, there're plenty more where they came from
Aztec Bronze S2 Elise 111S
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Anonymous

Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"
Quote from: "dick2ski"Fell over this today.

 m http://www.tradecarview.com/used_car/ja ... /10725641/ m


A bit odd, I thought the 180 had better wheels and someone has remove the BFW

I think the ironing board was an option.

ChrisGB

Quote from: "SirCharles"Hello all!

This is my first post here!

I am trying to find an answer to a question and I think you guys could help me.
I've done some search and still no answer.

I would like to know if I could get around 180 hp, at the engine, with these mods:

- Weapon R intake
- Full PPE exhaust (cat or no cat, witch ever is best)
- Crower cams stage 3
- Titanium springs and retainer
- Stainless valves
- Power FC

Thanks for the help!

Charles


I think things are a little complex if you are going that far. I believe you will need to go with an uprated oil pump to run the sort of revs you are after with the stage 3 cams, the circuitworks one springs to mind. Probably need a water pump impeller from a 2zz as well. I don't know how many rpm the stock bottom end is good for, but to get to 180bhp, you are going to need to go past the stock 6800 and the often recommended (valve bounce restricted) 7200rpm.

Lastly, the PPE manifold is optimised for stock cams and you may find it less than ideal with the stage 3 cams. I do know that the normal PPE manifold has a very narrow collector that would quite possibly not support enough gas flow for more than around 160bhp. Get in touch with PPE and let them know the duration and timing of the cams you propose using and the RPM where you want peak torque. You are looking for around 130lb/ft at around 7500rpm.

Personally, with stage 3 cams, I reckon you may just make the 180bhp mark (the lift and duration increase over the stage 2 is significant), but you are definitely going to lose lower end torque and low rev manners.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.

Chris
Ex 2GR-FE roadster. Sold it. Idiot.  Now Jaguar XE-S 380. Officially over by the bins.

SirCharles

Quote from: "ChrisGB"
Quote from: "SirCharles"Hello all!

This is my first post here!

I am trying to find an answer to a question and I think you guys could help me.
I've done some search and still no answer.

I would like to know if I could get around 180 hp, at the engine, with these mods:

- Weapon R intake
- Full PPE exhaust (cat or no cat, witch ever is best)
- Crower cams stage 3
- Titanium springs and retainer
- Stainless valves
- Power FC

Thanks for the help!

Charles


I think things are a little complex if you are going that far. I believe you will need to go with an uprated oil pump to run the sort of revs you are after with the stage 3 cams, the circuitworks one springs to mind. Probably need a water pump impeller from a 2zz as well. I don't know how many rpm the stock bottom end is good for, but to get to 180bhp, you are going to need to go past the stock 6800 and the often recommended (valve bounce restricted) 7200rpm.

Lastly, the PPE manifold is optimised for stock cams and you may find it less than ideal with the stage 3 cams. I do know that the normal PPE manifold has a very narrow collector that would quite possibly not support enough gas flow for more than around 160bhp. Get in touch with PPE and let them know the duration and timing of the cams you propose using and the RPM where you want peak torque. You are looking for around 130lb/ft at around 7500rpm.

Personally, with stage 3 cams, I reckon you may just make the 180bhp mark (the lift and duration increase over the stage 2 is significant), but you are definitely going to lose lower end torque and low rev manners.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.

Chris

Thanks for the info!

My car serves mostly on track (Time Attack) and the classing system is based on a power to weight ratio. The main route is going 2ZZ but I am gathering information about other venues.

With 180 HP, the car will have to weight 1935 lbs.
With 200 HP, the car will have to weight 2150lbs.

Thanks again for the info.

MR 2ster

Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"Which is a pity as that's something I would like to try at some point (ITB's, not disappering - though I guess we all do that eventually).

I got some ITB's for possible sale if you're interested? Was going to fit them to my Celica GT but never got around to it and they're just sat in my garage atm.

Puerco

I've just returned to the MR2 fraternity after a 14 month flirtation with a Mini Cooper S JCW with 200 bhp and loads of torque.  My previous MR2 was a pre-facelift with the Jap gearbox.  
My current one is 2004 UK spec, 23,000 miles and immaculate.
First impressions are:   Overly long gearing (6th is overdrive, even 5th can't make peak revs) and slightly less sharp steering than my old one. I also miss the mid range torque of the MCS.  
I'd like:  more torque, sensible gearing, sharper steering.
My own thoughts are:  Che (or similar) manifold; Mark iii or Apexi induction; Piggy back ECU to increase torque; retain stock cat and existing TTE back box;  smaller final drive pinion (to reduce gearing by c10%);
slightly larger steering pinion (to gear up the steering)  This car is for road use only, so I'm not looking for maximum top end power or manic revs.  Which ECU mod maximises torque rather than power? Also, does anyone know if and where suitable final drive and steering pinions are available?  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

johnny8

A bit of info here regarding the VM180 for those interested.

 m http://fastestlaps.com/models/toyota-mr-s-vm180-zagato m

Rallyeluke


FredyCro

Sorry for double posting, delet one if needed (here and in my build thread).

Reposting text for better visibility and maybe it will help in this topic in the future then being lost in my build thread:


Does anyone knows how much can safely 1zz cylinder head can be trimmed? Ill probably do a small scale engine rebuild to freshen it up and would like to know this to get the right info to the machine shop.

Anybody did a crankshaft lightening, balancing (knife edging) on 1zz? I can do it fairly affordable at a great quality, stock is heavy.  And cons?

Any engine pulleys that are safe/ recommended to be made out of aluminum?

Ill probably go to force induction (SC most likely) if I dont sell the car or do some other swap - this is the prep work that needs to be done and why not do this while engine is down and being disassembled.


Thank you!
IG: optimal_zzw30

Call the midlife!

The information in these pages notwithstanding you could try dropping Se7en motorsport an email, there's not much they don't know about getting performance out of the 1zz/2zz platforms.
As far as headwork goes a very light skim to true the face is about as much as you can do, there's little value to be had in spending time and money on porting/polishing as Toyota designed it to be as efficient as it could be anyway.
60% of the time it works everytime...

Petrus

Quote from: FredyCro on April 15, 2022, 09:32Does anyone knows how much can safely 1zz cylinder head can be trimmed? Ill probably do a small scale engine rebuild to freshen it up and would like to know this to get the right info to the machine shop.

The problem is that 1. the pistons are not flush with the cilinder block and a tight squeeze to the roof already and 2. the timing chain case will no longer be flush with the top of the head so the cam cover bridging a gap.

QuoteAny engine pulleys that are safe/ recommended to be made out of aluminum?


Yes, several and the experts are still out on that. I have one fitted as well as a lighter underdrive alternator pulley ánd a lighter flywheel. All noticeable.
Would happily fit an aluminium idler wheel too as has @Bernie

Here is a good explanation of what the effect is:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CxuER0qIWJk

Here illustrated as easy as chips:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CHQOctEvtTY

Applies to wheels and the whole car too; hence MR2  ;D