Crossmember Removal

[captain_laser]

Hi guys,

Some advice please! I'm in the process of replacing my rear crossmember on a pre-facelift 2000 model - I've undone all of the bolts, arms, etc, and the thing's not attached to the car anymore. It seems impossible to get the thing off with the exhaust & torsion bar still in place though!   s:cry: :cry: s:cry:   From what I've seen on here, it should be possible to remove it without resorting to taking off bottom of the exhaust, which I'd prefer not to do. It just won't seem to fit through the available space. Am I missing something?

if I do have to take off the pipe, will I also have to re-seal with new gaskets, etc?

Any advice greatly appreciated!

Cheers

[markiii]

you will need to remove the cat

I have no idea what you mean by torsion bar

[Joesson]

Torsion bar would be an alternative description for anti roll bar.

[captain_laser]

Thanks for the replies - managed to get the cat off without too much difficulty, and the crossmember came out a treat. She's all put back together with a new crossmember (minus the massive holes), so I'm a happy man.
  s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:

[StuC]

Good job on getting it all back together.  :-) :-) :-)
Are you planning on getting the geometry checked out?

[Two's Company]

How do you get to the damn cat to backbox bolts? Everything else undone.

[Joesson]

Access is from under the car and you will need a long extension bar and wrench onto what is a bolt head.
I can't remember the size but you will need a suitable socket (I prefer 6 point on tight nuts/ bolt heads  as less chance of rounding off the nut/head).
I may have also used a flexible joint but am not certain on that.
Torque figures are 62Nm/46lbft for replacement.  
T17451-22060 gasket which cost me £15.02 in April 2013 from MrT.

[dan944]

14 mm and get some copper grease on there. Mines on and off every other day for work at the moment and it helps a lot  s:) s:)

[Two's Company]

I took the bumper off because I couldn't get a spanner or socket on the bolt head.

[Two's Company]

What happened to the list of torque specs on the bolts? I'm sure there used to be a reference guide? Does anyone have them? Thanks

[Joesson]

I search for the torque figures relative to any work planned/ in progress.
Some I have got from here others from an eBay CD.

[Two's Company]

Found it.   m http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread ... ompilation m

[Two's Company]

Well I thought everything was undone but how do I get this off? The bolt at  the other end is well and truly seized and there isn't enough room to get an impact socket in.

[Anonymous]

Fork type ball joint splitter?

[Two's Company]

I'll get one of these tomorrow.  m http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... &langId=-1 m

[spit]

If you're nearby tomorrow Steve, give me a call and pick one up. Should have cooled down now after splitting Nic's balls on Sunday!

Can fish out torquey numbers for you too.

[Two's Company]

Thanks for text Ste. Torque numbers would be good. Any tips on getting this free once it is off the car?

[tomaky]

I managed to remove with 2 spanners may have used me long torque wrench as i think there 17mm?

[Two's Company]

Only 1 of 4 has come out. The nuts are off the other 3 but bolts aren't budging and not enough enough room for impact socket and torque wrench.

[spit]

They can be insanely stubborn. You stand a better chance with them removed with the beam and in clear air away from enginey bits.

If its the cam bolt, you need to get it to the point where the cam plate lifts enough to allow it to turn, the others should be free to turn from the off with persuasion (aka long bar). Just work it and work it with a good hex impact socket. I suppose you can lose the indents on the crossmember to faciltate rotation if you're not intending to re-use it!

The fun begins once you manage to get the bolt turning and drawn out slightly, as it'll likely be trying to bring the metal core of the bush with it. They can seize together something rotten. Keep 'gasing it and working it back and forth to break them apart. There's a sense of joy when it starts to come out. Go steady and persevere - its potentially hot and noisy work.

Sometimes they're beyond retrieval, but that's life.

If you need help or spare parts at short notice, shout up.

I'll post up torques for the arm bolts etc tomorrow.

[Two's Company]

Thanks Ste! It has been quite therapeutic until now! Pressure is on because The car has to be out by Friday when new owners move in!

[jinxedkitten]

Thanks Ste! It has been quite therapeutic until now! Pressure is on because The car has to be out by Friday when new owners move in!

And ready for ding day?  s:) s:)

[spit]

All in foot pounds.....

Cam plate NUT 64
Ball joint nut 36 (wedge the balljoint shaft in tightly to prevent it spinning while nutting it)

Lower arm inner BOLT 64
Lower arm outer BOLT 76

(for completeness)
Front strut rod inner BOLT 58
Front strut rod outer BOLT 58

Subframe mounting bolts 59
Abs wire mounting bracket. not specified.

Rear engine mount centre NUT 69

[Two's Company]

Thanks Ste! It has been quite therapeutic until now! Pressure is on because The car has to be out by Friday when new owners move in!

And ready for ding day?  s:) s:)

Exactly - otherwise there is an alignment space going!

[Anonymous]

Hope you don't mind the hijack, but I'm planning very Similar work....
I am replacing all the lower arms for adjustable ones. I know my cam bolts are seized into the bush (like te photo and info above) but I don't know to what extent, yet.

All things considered, do you guys think it would be easier if I just got a replacement cross member and swapped it all out?