Rear Alignment. Camber Bolts?

Started by 1979scotte, August 28, 2014, 12:21

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Print
Go Down Pages1
User actions

1979scotte

August 28, 2014, 12:21 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Hi guys
I was unable to have my rear wheel alignment done at ding day  because the bolts were stuck fast.
Would these be camber bolts? Part no 48190-32010?
Would like to get some spares before I try to remove them in case they get ruined.
Is it worth investing in a set of adjustable arms? Or track rods or whatever they're called?
I understand that if these are fitted the bolts no longer have to be undone to align the wheels.
Have tried searching even looked at a few diagrams on google but still not 100%.
Any help appreciated.

Scott aka Mr Slow
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

AndyM

#1
August 28, 2014, 12:44 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Afternoon Scott.

Sounds like it could be the camber/crash bolts. I'm in a similar position as I'm fitting my Teins soon and want to adjust the camber to compensate when I get the alignment done. I'm going for some adjustable bolts I think, I just can't justify the cost for fully adjustable arms/rods.

Recent discussion here...  l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=51304 l

Andy
Ex-owner: 2003 Sable - Hardtop, Black Leather, A/C, lots (and lots) of mods

Wabbitkilla

#2
August 28, 2014, 12:47 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Don't you mean toe control bolts?
Cute & fluffy animals were definitely hurt during the production of this post, there're plenty more where they came from
Aztec Bronze S2 Elise 111S
Campovolo Grey Abarth 595 Competizione

1979scotte

#3
August 28, 2014, 13:33 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"Don't you mean toe control bolts?

I really wish I knew.
I was hoping you would.
There  big bolts that hold the arms to the cross members.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

krazysteve

#4
August 28, 2014, 13:43 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "1979scotte"
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"Don't you mean toe control bolts?

I really wish I knew.
I was hoping you would.
There  big bolts that hold the arms to the cross members.

Yep there the ones, (toe) plenty of plus gas and a wee bit of hammer therapy to shake any rust free, please note on the stud end off the bolt not threaded end.
RACING, because football, cricket, rugby and golf only need ONE BALL

1979scotte

#5
August 28, 2014, 14:12 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
 m http://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/produ ... cts_id=992 m

Thanks.

What about these from monkey wrench? Worth the money or just go for Toyota?
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

Markb

#6
August 28, 2014, 14:15 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Are these the bolts for the alignment if needed?......it mentions 14mm and 15mm,is there a difference for certain years or do you just measure what you have fitted.

 m http://www.camskill.co.uk/m5b0s2417p818 ... 1_8i_ZZW30 m

AndyM

#7
August 28, 2014, 14:32 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Scott, I think those you've linked to are camber bolts that connect the hub to the damper (and allow you to dial in camber). These are the ones I need but if you're talking about the crossmember/toe bolts then you need something else (quite possibly the part number originally posted up).
Ex-owner: 2003 Sable - Hardtop, Black Leather, A/C, lots (and lots) of mods

1979scotte

#8
August 28, 2014, 14:42 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Oh dear this is getting confusing.  Again. Perhaps I will take a picture of what I am talking about later.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

1979scotte

#9
August 28, 2014, 14:56 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "Markb"Are these the bolts for the alignment if needed?......it mentions 14mm and 15mm,is there a difference for certain years or do you just measure what you have fitted.

 m http://www.camskill.co.uk/m5b0s2417p818 ... 1_8i_ZZW30 m

All good questions they sound like the right thing.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

Wabbitkilla

#10
August 28, 2014, 15:33 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
I think what you are after is the Cam bolts for Toe adjustment ... they're infamous for seizing in the arm bushes and can mean you need to replace the arms or bushes in the arms.

The ones you have shown are for adjusting camber and connect the suspension shock absorber / strut to the hub.

If you look at this photo
 m https://www.flickr.com/photos/richards_ ... otostream/ m

They are the bolts closest to the centre of the picture.

They look similar to these but far better getting the proper ones from Toyota.
 m http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPC-25445-Cam-B ... 5b&vxp=mtr m
Cute & fluffy animals were definitely hurt during the production of this post, there're plenty more where they came from
Aztec Bronze S2 Elise 111S
Campovolo Grey Abarth 595 Competizione

1979scotte

#11
August 28, 2014, 16:38 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"I think what you are after is the Cam bolts for Toe adjustment ... they're infamous for seizing in the arm bushes and can mean you need to replace the arms or bushes in the arms.

The ones you have shown are for adjusting camber and connect the suspension shock absorber / strut to the hub.

If you look at this photo
 m https://www.flickr.com/photos/richards_ ... otostream/ m

They are the bolts closest to the centre of the picture.

They look similar to these but far better getting the proper ones from Toyota.
 m http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPC-25445-Cam-B ... 5b&vxp=mtr m


Excellent its the ones either side of the exhaust in the foreground.
Thanks  very much.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

1979scotte

#12
August 31, 2014, 14:05 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest


These were the bolt I was talking about guys. Just given them the good news with some shock and unlock.
Will hold off trying to get them loose until I order some new ones. Think I'll have to pop over to the local
Mr T just to make sure I get the right things.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

Anonymous

#13
August 31, 2014, 18:03 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
They are the bolts which always seize. The bolt seizes Into the bush of the arm.

Best case you can free them up with plus gas, some heat and some elbow grease.

Remember to work the bolt head, not the nut - because the nut has some "teeth" which bite into the sub frame so don't come free easily.

Worst case (what happened to me) you can't get them un done - I took it to a garage who put the oxy torch on them, and still would t come free. I ended up getting new bolts and arms, and also changed out my subframe at the same time (yes, you can damage the subframe by hanging off these bolts)

I got the bolts from CTP they are about £10 each I believe. I'll see if I've still got the exploded diagram for you.

Anonymous

#14
August 31, 2014, 18:15 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Scott, Chris from CTP kindly sent me the following when I was doing all the work in my car

[Mod]Copyright image removed

Anonymous

#15
August 31, 2014, 18:20 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
So the bolts you are taking about are (top right of the diagram)

- 48194G(RH)
- 48198G(LH)
 
Adjustment Washers
- 48194H(RH)
- 48198H(LH)

Nut
- 90179-12127 (x2)

You should hopefully only need the bolts but I chose to buy the lot to make my life as easy as possible

1979scotte

#16
August 31, 2014, 18:26 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Thanks Mark
Glad you told me which ones was trying to work it out.
Hoping the shock unlock will work slip new ones in with a bit of lithium grease and hopefully will be ok until next year.
What arms did you get oe or something uprated?
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

Anonymous

#17
August 31, 2014, 18:33 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
No worries. Happy to help.

I ended up buying (2nd hand but never fitted) adjustable arms; they were cheaper than oem arms!

1979scotte

#18
August 31, 2014, 21:26 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Parts orderd from Chris @ CTP.
Great service at 9 on a Sunday evening.
Expensive for a few nuts bolts and washers god knows what mr t would have charged.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

Anonymous

#19
August 31, 2014, 21:35 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
They are expensive but there isn't really any other option.

If you need any info or advice just shout

1979scotte

#20
August 31, 2014, 21:40 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"They are expensive but there isn't really any other option.

If you need any info or advice just shout

Thanks Mark if i have a problem will call on you.
My dad loves a classic car (rust bucket) so will hopefully lend a hand if the austin 7 is't taking up too much of his time.
Really want these to come off nicely. Don't want to have to get the torch or the grinder out.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

Anonymous

#21
August 31, 2014, 21:43 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
IF, Once they are soaked, and you still can't get them undone, it might be worth taking it to a garage with a air gun to try and shock them  out. Bear it in mind  s:) :) s:)

1979scotte

#22
August 31, 2014, 21:51 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Are you still going 2ZZ?
Haven't tried one yet, would like to.
Would like to see how it compares to a turbo or a V6.
Both of which are epic btw.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

Anonymous

#23
September 1, 2014, 07:39 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Yes that is my plan. I was kinda hoping my 1zz would let go by now but the damn thing keeps giving!

Originally planning on doing it over the winter, it maybe some time next year now.
Print
Go Up Pages1
User actions
Tags: