MeisterR suspension (so far)

whiteknight72 · February 13, 2015, 21:15

Started to fit the MeisterR suspension and I thought I'd share what Ive discovered so far for those, like me that are only weekend spanner monkeys.
It's pretty straightforward once the wheels are off (backs first), however my drop links faced inwards, (nut inner most), which made it tricky to get the 5mm hex on to the centre of the thread to stop it spinning, I had to use snipe nose pliers on the thread and use an adjustable spanner to squeeze the pliers to stop any spinning. They eventually came off but as I'd crushed the rubber bush I ordered new drop links from "the bay". The main bolts require serious persuasion as I don't have a long bar so I had to stand on the wrench to loosen ( health and safety gloss over that bit). The nut that holds the brake line is welded to the bracket so undo the bolt side, sounds obvious but the muck on mine ment I spent 10min trying to undo a weld....mmmm.
I bought some lithium grease from Halfords and sprayed it on the metal to metal surfaces. Putting the new strut in was easy.....but I set the ride height before I offered to the car by laying both struts next to each other so I could measure the changes I made to make sure the ride height would be correct.
The new drop links had to go in the same way as they came out as access/room was tricky. Used a trolley jack to lift the hub into place and the rest was just tightening bolts and wheels on. I also drilled the plastic top strut covers so that only the hard/soft adjustment knob was showing.
I did have to use the 5mm hex on the bottom of the drop links when putting back on, make sure you remember to remove the hex before lowering the car as otherwise it will jam....mmmm doh. After jacking back up it could be released.
just moved onto the fronts, the good news is the drop links probably won't have to be undone the bad news is the main hub bolts are even tighter. Tip, don't loosen the top (frunk) bolts until the main hub bolts are loose as they offer too much movement.
I WD'd everything before I started and left overnight, still looks like some heat will need to be applied to the front.......
The point is if I can do it anyone can, have a go and have the satisfaction that you saved youself a bob or two.
If owt else crops up at the front I'll update.
The result at the back is a dop in ride height of approximately 2inch and 15 notches on the hard/ soft setting (approx mid way between hardest and softest), once on the ground I can't actually bounce the suspension at all....... we'll see what a proper drive produces.

TiM3 · February 13, 2015, 21:21

Useful write up! I'm really interested to hear what you think of them once fitted. Coilovers are my next modification and MeisterR seem to be a good option compare to the more typical BC's (and I like the red bits...)

Anonymous · February 13, 2015, 21:43

Nice info. I'm sure scotte will be along to give his opinion on ride quality. Overall they sound very good.

Anonymous · February 13, 2015, 21:44

Quote from: "whiteknight72"Started to fit the MeisterR suspension and I thought I'd share what Ive discovered so far for those, like me that are only weekend spanner monkeys.
It's pretty straightforward once the wheels are off (backs first), however my drop links faced inwards, (nut inner most), which made it tricky to get the 5mm hex on to the centre of the thread to stop it spinning, I had to use snipe nose pliers on the thread and use an adjustable spanner to squeeze the pliers to stop any spinning. They eventually came off but as I'd crushed the rubber bush I ordered new drop links from "the bay". The main bolts require serious persuasion as I don't have a long bar so I had to stand on the wrench to loosen ( health and safety gloss over that bit). The nut that holds the brake line is welded to the bracket so undo the bolt side, sounds obvious but the muck on mine ment I spent 10min trying to undo a weld....mmmm.
I bought some lithium grease from Halfords and sprayed it on the metal to metal surfaces. Putting the new strut in was easy.....but I set the ride height before I offered to the car by laying both struts next to each other so I could measure the changes I made to make sure the ride height would be correct.
The new drop links had to go in the same way as they came out as access/room was tricky. Used a trolley jack to lift the hub into place and the rest was just tightening bolts and wheels on. I also drilled the plastic top strut covers so that only the hard/soft adjustment knob was showing.
I did have to use the 5mm hex on the bottom of the drop links when putting back on, make sure you remember to remove the hex before lowering the car as otherwise it will jam....mmmm doh. After jacking back up it could be released.
just moved onto the fronts, the good news is the drop links probably won't have to be undone the bad news is the main hub bolts are even tighter. Tip, don't loosen the top (frunk) bolts until the main hub bolts are loose as they offer too much movement.
I WD'd everything before I started and left overnight, still looks like some heat will need to be applied to the front.......
The point is if I can do it anyone can, have a go and have the satisfaction that you saved youself a bob or two.
If owt else crops up at the front I'll update.
The result at the back is a dop in ride height of approximately 2inch and 15 notches on the hard/ soft setting (approx mid way between hardest and softest), once on the ground I can't actually bounce the suspension at all....... we'll see what a proper drive produces.

The fronts should be the easy ones, as you don't need to play with drop links. If you have a breaker bar you'll find the front strut bolts much easier to remove.

1979scotte · February 13, 2015, 22:05

Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Nice info. I'm sure scotte will be along to give his opinion on ride quality. Overall they sound very good.

Not until the 24th i won't be fitting until then as it is when my insurance company changes.

Anonymous · February 13, 2015, 22:38

Quote from: "1979scotte"
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Nice info. I'm sure scotte will be along to give his opinion on ride quality. Overall they sound very good.

Not until the 24th i won't be fitting until then as it is when my insurance company changes.

Oh I see! Sensible option s:)

s:)

shnazzle · February 14, 2015, 05:53

When is this proper drive you speak of? s:)

s:) quite curious.
Also, will you be adjusting them yourself or taking them to a pro outfit?

men3cac · February 14, 2015, 07:29

I (finally) fitted my Sportivo kit last night. To do all four springs/dampers + both roll bars took 5 hours, I guess the coilovers must be similar? I'm a convert to huge 1/2" breaker bars and impact sockets, they make life much easier. The impact sockets are 6 sided so less chance of rounding stuff off!

Didn't even attempt the rear drop links- angle grinder job s:D

s:D

1979scotte · February 14, 2015, 07:57

My drop links will be ground off have bought new ones.
Also new toe control bolts nuts and washers for when i get full alignment done.

whiteknight72 · February 14, 2015, 08:44

I will definitely have to invest in a breaker bar as it will make life a lot easier, the car was actually moving on the stands I was pulling that hard. Will try and get a bar today or I will have to resort to heat.
The drive will be across to bram racing to have a 4 wheel alignment, that will probably be next week, I'll update and post the print out once done.

Joesson · February 14, 2015, 09:28

Quote from: "men3cac"I (finally) fitted my Sportivo kit last night. To do all four springs/dampers + both roll bars took 5 hours, I guess the coilovers must be similar? I'm a convert to huge 1/2" breaker bars and impact sockets, they make life much easier.[/b] The impact sockets are 6 sided so less chance of rounding stuff off!

Didn't even attempt the rear drop links- angle grinder job s:D s:D

SIX sided sockets, also available in regular duty, are THE sockets for most tasks.
The multi point socket sometimes allows easier work on a difficult to access fitting but alway a danger of rounding off the nut corners!

whiteknight72 · February 14, 2015, 23:41

Teeny tiny problem gents, I've lost the bit of paper that I wrote the original ride heights on, I don't suppose anyone knows what they are?
Got the front done tonight and wanted to compare the new measurements with the old but can't find my scribbles. Just been a bit OCD as I think the rear needs to go UP a fraction and the original heights would help.
Thanks in advance (I hope). s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:

1979scotte · February 15, 2015, 06:28

Ride height on stock suspension should be somewhere in the region of 350/355mm from wheel centre to top of arch.
If your going for a more lowered look Tein/TTE drop the car to around 320mm.
These fingers are based on my car and those of AndyM and Ardent on FL wheels with correct staggering not the it should male any difference i dont think measuring from centre of the wheel.