My Black 2003 Turbo Build - CrazySX

[CrazySX]

Also made some more progress with the bumper. Rubbed down and reprimed in high build black  s;) s;)



Three coats on now. Tomorrow I will flat the whole bumper back with some 1000 and then time for basecoat. Just hope the weather is good for it!

[CrazySX]

So what did I do today, I spent 2 hrs wet sanding with 1000grit.

Went from this

To this

To this


It was as smooth as a babies bum now, so thought I would hit it with some bade coat. So after wiping it down with some panel wipe and then a tack rag it got 3 coats of Base coat


And then I discovered this!  s:evil: :evil: s:evil:


So I thought f*ck you bumper!

[CrazySX]

So now I am gonna have to let it harden and flat it again and see wtf that spider crack scratch thing is! I am sure it weren't there before!!

Only means I have to flat the whole bumper again  s:( s:(  

Anyway so, I was sick of not being able to drive the car so the old bumper went back on, except I ditched the fogs and put the new ones in!!!



Those fogs are amazing! SMD LED. Pictures really do them no justice.

[CrazySX]

Oh and another thing, the indicators flash like a bride that is  late for her wedding :p

Need to source some resistors and loop them in.

Sometimes you just feel like it's a losing battle  s:( s:(

[jonty]

Keep plugging away mate, you'll get there eventually!

Paintwork is a bugger, my brother and I have a spray room, but we were getting loads of crap in the paint despite having filters in and out of the room... we changed the door seals so it's now face sealing (had to make a flange around the door to mount the seal on) and then we did the bonnet for the 200sx... it came out looking totally crap, loads of stuff in the surface despite cleaning the room really thoroughly, and then the paint didn't match in the slightest.

It's bloody demoralising, but keep at it and we'll get there eventually...

[CrazySX]

Keep plugging away mate, you'll get there eventually!

Paintwork is a bugger, my brother and I have a spray room, but we were getting loads of crap in the paint despite having filters in and out of the room... we changed the door seals so it's now face sealing (had to make a flange around the door to mount the seal on) and then we did the bonnet for the 200sx... it came out looking totally crap, loads of stuff in the surface despite cleaning the room really thoroughly, and then the paint didn't match in the slightest.

It's bloody demoralising, but keep at it and we'll get there eventually...

Thanks bud. Have you got a body shop or experimenting at home?

I haven't actually got  sshit shit sshit  in the paint this time which is great!  I little tip for you,  when the Base coat flashes off go over it with a tack rag, then hit it again.

This is the reason I am so ticked off. It was going o so well!!!

[CrazySX]

Although looking at it now, I think I maybe put on too much Base,  it all needs flatting back again.

I have a 200sx bonnet to paint too, that will be fun hahahaha

[jonty]

I think the problem is if you let the paint dry too much between coats each layer gets orange peel, and this builds up and up... For most things we don't mind doing a bit of wet and dry, especially solid colours, but this metallic is a bitch for the highlight getting ruined as soon as you touch it... tack rag between coats could be good, but TBH it's easiest of all to wait til it's dry and nub the inclusions out then... as long as there is enough lacquer you can basically lift out almost anything.

We have a room in our workshop dedicated for prep and painting - it's brushed, hoovered and then dusted down with the airline before we paint, and has proper filters in and out. This gives a pretty good view of the size - it's too small to do the 200sx bonnet, but any other panel is OK:

[CrazySX]

I think the problem is if you let the paint dry too much between coats each layer gets orange peel, and this builds up and up... For most things we don't mind doing a bit of wet and dry, especially solid colours, but this metallic is a bitch for the highlight getting ruined as soon as you touch it... tack rag between coats could be good, but TBH it's easiest of all to wait til it's dry and nub the inclusions out then... as long as there is enough lacquer you can basically lift out almost anything.

We have a room in our workshop dedicated for prep and painting - it's brushed, hoovered and then dusted down with the airline before we paint, and has proper filters in and out. This gives a pretty good view of the size - it's too small to do the 200sx bonnet, but any other panel is OK:

Thanks for the hints and tips. my 2k is air drying at rubbish temps, and i am only waiting for it to flash then next coat, however there was one coat which i left for about 30mins before next as i had to go pick up the little one from school.

The only issue i see with your paint room is that your filters run from side to side.  In a professional oven the air comes in from above and is extracted below, this does not allow for the overspray to flow upwards, dry and leave  sshit shit sshit  in the paint lol! Maybe rearrange it and see if it makes a difference.

[Anonymous]

The only issue i see with your paint room is that your filters run from side to side.  In a professional oven the air comes in from above and is extracted below, this does not allow for the overspray to flow upwards, dry and leave  sshit shit sshit  in the paint lol! Maybe rearrange it and see if it makes a difference.

Exactly also a fan blowing the air away from the product helps. Also if the orange peel is very visable then I would suggest an egg cup of 2k thinners in the mix, helps it to flatten if the atomisation is good.

[jonty]

Maybe it was the longer drying time, but TBH if you get good results from a tin you have done well mate!

We're not able to rearrange it unfortunately, as the inlet is a filter cut into the door, and the exit is the filter over fan in the window! However, I've seen plenty of (older, mind you) paint shops that have a similar horizontal setup, so even though the floor ducted is best as you say, there is another as yet undiscovered reason for it somewhere..

RBucks our paint goes on very nicely, but the lacquer recently has been terrible, so I will suggest to my bro to put in more thinner, thanks for the tip.

[CrazySX]

The only issue i see with your paint room is that your filters run from side to side.  In a professional oven the air comes in from above and is extracted below, this does not allow for the overspray to flow upwards, dry and leave **** in the paint lol! Maybe rearrange it and see if it makes a difference.

Exactly also a fan blowing the air away from the product helps. Also if the orange peel is very visable then I would suggest an egg cup of 2k thinners in the mix, helps it to flatten if the atomisation is good.

I am using 2k in premixed rattle cans so i am just gonna have to suck it and see, i will flat it back, give it one more coat of base then lacquer  s;) s;)

[CrazySX]

Maybe it was the longer drying time, but TBH if you get good results from a tin you have done well mate!

We're not able to rearrange it unfortunately, as the inlet is a filter cut into the door, and the exit is the filter over fan in the window! However, I've seen plenty of (older, mind you) paint shops that have a similar horizontal setup, so even though the floor ducted is best as you say, there is another as yet undiscovered reason for it somewhere..

RBucks our paint goes on very nicely, but the lacquer recently has been terrible, so I will suggest to my bro to put in more thinner, thanks for the tip.

Guess you will have to just suck it and see like me too then lol!  Just try and paint in the direction of the outlet, and use more thinner, is makes sense, may mean more coats, but should mean it flashes off much quicker too  s;) s;)

[jonty]

Indeed mate, just having to plough on with it and hope for the best.  I hope you get it all finished off soon enough!

[CrazySX]

Indeed mate, just having to plough on with it and hope for the best.  I hope you get it all finished off soon enough!

You should know by now..  a car is never 'finished' it maybe 'finished for now' lol

The 200sx is finished for now.

I still have sideskirts to prep and paint for the 2. I can see that being lots of fun :s good thing about sideskirts is that they are low down so you don't see the imperfections as much.

Hoping to get bumper finished this wknd. Although it probably won't be fitted until at least 2 weeks later. As I want the paint to be fully dry and not end up with fingerprints in it like I have experienced before  s:o s:o

Then onto the skirts..

[jonty]

I was meaning the bumper is finished, not the car... I'm not naive about these things any more!

[CrazySX]

I was gonna give the bumper another rub down today but didn't get time, so I think rub tomorrow and paint Sunday as we are supposed to see a bit of sun  s;) s;)

In the mean time I took a few shots.. what do you think peeps! Yes I know the car is dirty,  but still sexy  s:) s:)



Sidelights with Halos


Sidelights halos and HIDs


Looks a lot whiter in reality. Photos make the light look blue for some reason.

[CrazySX]

i was going to run strip DRL's on the TS bumper, but i have fallen in love with these halo fogs, the main fog is actually SMD LED witha  projector, so it will be blindingly bright.  They will be bolted to the TS bumper  s;) s;)

[CrazySX]

Ok so update time.. I spent a few hours yesterday prepping.. and the high build primer in a few places..



Then after lots and lots of time spent getting it all nice and smooth today I hit it with some base. .



Then noticed this..


Fucking siht  sbollox bollox sbollox  wnak tawt cnut asre! !!  s:x :x s:x :x:x:x:x:x:evil:

[CrazySX]

I don't think this bumper is destined to go on the car. Maybe I should just leave it til the summer now  s:( s:(

[frootloops]

doesnt look too bad if thats the only issue, you're never likely to get a perfect finish painting it in a gazebo. You should be able to fill them with stopper easily enough.

[MartinC]

Any idea what has caused it?  I'm no expert, and I'd like to know what to do to avoid getting these problems.  That said, I agree with 'frootloops', it doesn't look too bad.

[CrazySX]

Any idea what has caused it?  I'm no expert, and I'd like to know what to do to avoid getting these problems.  That said, I agree with 'frootloops', it doesn't look too bad.

I know guys, it's just annoying because I am wet sanding so it takes ages to completely dry. I spent a long time prepping, thought it was ready then found something else.

This area was where the original spider Web crack looking thing appeared.  So I flatted it all they way back then hit it with high build primer. Then today flatted the high build til it was smooth as silk.

The only thing I can think of is that the high build was not fully cured and for some reason reacted with the Base.

I am happy to hear from a some none who knows better?

[justinread72]

i really wanted one of those bumpers but HZ had them out of stock and in the mean time I found a Genuine Toyota front lip with bumper and I am so pleased as what you are going through would make me so Pissed off!

amazing build and the headlights are the best I have seen so want them on my yellow 2

keep it up
  s:D s:D

[CrazySX]

i really wanted one of those bumpers but HZ had them out of stock and in the mean time I found a Genuine Toyota front lip with bumper and I am so pleased as what you are going through would make me so **** off!

amazing build and the headlights are the best I have seen so want them on my yellow 2

keep it up
  s:D s:D

Thanks bud, you have made my day  s:D s:D  as for the TS bumper, I kinda wish I did what you did now. Although it will look great once finished it has brought back memories of how crap fibreglass products are. It also sits real low so I am going to lose the practicality of the car to a degree too! Even if I finish the bumper in the next week or so I think I may just leave it of the car until summer.