My Black 2003 Turbo Build - CrazySX

Started by CrazySX, July 23, 2015, 10:59

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CrazySX

#75
September 19, 2015, 16:47 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Ok so I have a little concern. On the front shocks, there is a little shoulder on which the metal plate locks. The the top mount fits on top.

I am talking about this little shoulder

And this metal plate, not sure what the real name is lol its in the background in this pic.



Now.. the drivers side has locked and is all good. But the passenger side doesn't seem to have and when I turn the steering wheel then I can see the top nut and strut shaft turn with it. Is this ok and will it eventually find its way into position allowing me to tighten  the nut or do I need to disassemble it all again and position it  s:( :( s:(

CrazySX

#76
September 19, 2015, 16:48 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
That was the old knackered shock btw. Not going back on the car lol!

CrazySX

#77
September 19, 2015, 18:46 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Ok all done, I did it in situ. Slackened the bolt, pulled down the bump stop and dust cover. Got some grips in there, rotated to where it should be and tightened it up. Mind at rest now  s:) :) s:)

Swan_Connery

#78
September 20, 2015, 12:09 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Erm, yeh, when I did the springs on my mx5 I built them up on the bench and locked the shaft to tighten everything up before fitting. Had it out yet?

CrazySX

#79
September 20, 2015, 13:04 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "Swan_Connery"Erm, yeh, when I did the springs on my mx5 I built them up on the bench and locked the shaft to tighten everything up before fitting. Had it out yet?
As per the post above yours, I managed to sort it without taking the whole thing out. All sorted now. I am happy  s:) :) s:)  on the rears the flat bit is all the way along the threaded bit of the shaft. Fronts just have a littlw shoulder. I only realised once I had fully reassembled the passenger side and only realised on the drivers side so did that one the way it was supposed to be done.

CrazySX

#80
September 23, 2015, 09:46 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Ok so it's feedback time. The yellow stuff pads are awesome!! I am 56 miles into bedding in and they feel great. Some dik in front of me slammed on the anchors today so I had to do the same. I hope my brakes are ok.  Still feel ok.

Suspension feels so much nicer and smoother and planted. Still need to get the tracking done, but I am due the MOT this wknd, so going to get my rear wheel bearing changed over and a rotten exhaust clamp changed. I think that's all it needs.

Overall what a transformation even with crap budget tyres and wheels misaligned!

jonty

#81
September 23, 2015, 10:10 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
My bedding-in process for pads is generally to accelerate to 60-70 and then brake down to 10-20mph repeatedly until the pedal goes away completely, do that a few times and you're good to go (...for trackdays when a lunchtime swap has been required there aren't many other options!) and I've never noticed short pad life or any other problem from this... yellows are meant to be ready to go anyway, so they don't need much bedding.

Anonymous

#82
September 23, 2015, 10:38 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
They have a quick bed in coating, once that's gone (it's red) they are bedded in  s:) :) s:)

CrazySX

#83
September 23, 2015, 12:59 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Thanks guys, yeah they do have that coating but i wasnt sure how many miles it would take for it to be gone and there is not real way of checking unless i remove them.  The brakes do feel amazing!  The only reported issue i have known about with being heavy footed on new brakes is that pads get glazed and then aren't as effective and they squeel.  so you have to take it all apart and abrade it!

CrazySX

#84
September 23, 2015, 13:03 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
 m http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/how-to-be ... driving-2/ m

200-300 miles  s:o :o s:o  and with new discs 1000!!!

Anonymous

#85
September 23, 2015, 13:25 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
They get really, really good when very hot too

jonty

#86
September 23, 2015, 15:22 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
I'd not heard of the glazing issue, but if it happened to me I'd try and just power through it... nothing like getting them hot and under load to clean them up!

My brakes were properly seized up after the car was parked for 2 years, with the rear calipers needing replacement, but the discs and pads are perfectly happy after being given a bit of stick... I was expecting to need new yellows and discs, so I'm really pleased that the old stuff is rock solid still!

shnazzle

#87
September 23, 2015, 15:25 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
wouldn't power through glazed pads  s:) :) s:)  Unless you want to power through the farmhouse at the end of hte lane. hahaha
What was the cause of the accident sir?  I was trying to de-glaze my pads officer
...neutiquam erro.

jonty

#88
September 23, 2015, 16:03 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "shnazzle"wouldn't power through glazed pads  s:) :) s:)  Unless you want to power through the farmhouse at the end of hte lane. hahaha
What was the cause of the accident sir?  I was trying to de-glaze my pads officer

Haha good point! Although I would probably advocate doing it whilst not actually requiring to stop, as when pointing at said farmhouse it may be too late!

CrazySX

#89
September 24, 2015, 17:26 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Ok so a little update. I took my car in for MOT and the rear brake cables were holding the cables too tight so had them done while there and a new exhaust clamp. Both jobs I didn't really want to do.

Anyway.. passed MOT yay!

CrazySX

#90
September 24, 2015, 17:26 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Also put this up in the garden today
My paint booth and place to do little jobs   s:D :D s:D

CrazySX

#91
September 24, 2015, 20:08 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Ok so I wanted to try the TS bumper for fit today. So removed the bumper on it. Snapped 3 of the four top bolts and 2 of the 3 bottom ones  s:cry: :cry: s:cry:

How do I overcome this?

MartinC

#92
September 24, 2015, 20:15 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Not much choice other than drilling them out, I don't think.  Unless someones got a better idea.  Start with a small drill bit and work up to just under the thread size.  You may be lucky and the rest of the bolt will come out, if not you may need to re-tap the thread.

Good luck.   s:) :) s:)
Martin

Readers ride :- Martin's 2001 Roadster

CrazySX

#93
September 24, 2015, 20:29 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "mxcum167"Not much choice other than drilling them out, I don't think.  Unless someones got a better idea.  Start with a small drill bit and work up to just under the thread size.  You may be lucky and the rest of the bolt will come out, if not you may need to re-tap the thread.

Good luck.   s:) :) s:)

 s:( :( s:(   i was hoping for a genius idea! hate drilling out bolts lol! i did try to grip the bottom with mole grips and try winding it out but was a waste of time, the brackets are made of cheese, don't wanna bend them.

i have come to a conclusion about the MR2, its all made of cheese!

Anonymous

#94
September 24, 2015, 21:26 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
I drilled them out and replaced with stainless fasteners.

If you are worried about damaging the thread then go for an easy out, but soak them in plus gas prior to trying.

Well done on the MOT

CrazySX

#95
September 24, 2015, 23:10 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"I drilled them out and replaced with stainless fasteners.

If you are worried about damaging the thread then go for an easy out, but soak them in plus gas prior to trying.

Well done on the MOT
Stainless fasteners? You got a pic?

Anonymous

#96
September 25, 2015, 07:23 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Not to hand sorry, there will be some in my build thread though.

It's nothing fancy, just some stainless steel bolts from eBay, I replaced loads of them when i tidied up the frunk area  s:) :) s:)

shnazzle

#97
September 25, 2015, 08:36 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
May need to take it a bit easier on the bolts if you're snapping that many. Soak them in PlusGas or some industrial release agent for a good while, then try rocking the bolt tight and loose instead of just torquing the crap out of it. Usually if you get it to loosen up the first bit, it will come out. But if you overtorque it while it's still firmly stuck, it will shear every time.
I've learned this while working on the two. My bolt-shearing percentage has dropped signifiantly  s:) :) s:)    Except for the ones on the bottom of the car...they're hopelessly weak, stuck and rotten.
...neutiquam erro.

CrazySX

#98
September 25, 2015, 09:01 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Not to hand sorry, there will be some in my build thread though.

It's nothing fancy, just some stainless steel bolts from eBay, I replaced loads of them when i tidied up the frunk area  s:) :) s:)

thats a good idea! i will get some stainless bolts  s:) :) s:)

CrazySX

#99
September 25, 2015, 09:03 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "shnazzle"May need to take it a bit easier on the bolts if you're snapping that many. Soak them in PlusGas or some industrial release agent for a good while, then try rocking the bolt tight and loose instead of just torquing the crap out of it. Usually if you get it to loosen up the first bit, it will come out. But if you overtorque it while it's still firmly stuck, it will shear every time.
I've learned this while working on the two. My bolt-shearing percentage has dropped signifiantly  s:) :) s:)    Except for the ones on the bottom of the car...they're hopelessly weak, stuck and rotten.

the top bumper bolts were really tight!!! and they penetrating fluid had no chance of penetration as the bolt was seated firmly on the bumper plastic.

The one that came out alive i managed to loosen, get in some WD, then rock back and forth  s:) :) s:)   But i know what you mean, i was in a race against the light too  s:( :( s:(
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