Handbreak Cables Seized

[warrengauci]

Hi Guys,

First of all well done to all those who contribute to the writing of useful articles.I am new to this forum so if I'm looking or posting at the wrong place, please bear with me.

I have problem with the handbreak  on the right side of my Mark III. Nothing new for mr2 owners!!

I had a seized Caliper and I replaced this with a refurbished one. Handbreak was working fine for some months. No issues what so ever.
Now I facing a seized handbreak Cables problem. If I remove the cables from the caliper and pull by hand the cable does not go all the way to rest position and remains slitly pulled.

BY any chance is there an article about e-brake cables removal? I am aware that the fuel tank needs to be lowered and I wish I can have a guide to follow before attempting to change them myself.

Thanks in advance

[mr-ed_smt]

Once the tank is down and the centre interior trim (covering handbrake) is off it should be very obvious. I've got both handbrake cables in excellent condition for sale if you need them;)!

[locobuilder brian]

Before dropping the tank & changing the Handbrake cables double check the cable adjuster below the handbrake lever is not adjusted up to tight as this would give much the same problem. If its adjusted up to tight it prevents the pad wear slack adjuster taking up. The cable should be free enough to allow the lever on the caliper to touch its stop. Its possible your pads have now worn a little & the wear adjuster haven't taken up the slack. Also with the console up it possible to pull the cable back & forth to check its action.

[warrengauci]

I had allready checked cables below handbreak console and they looked ok. What happens is that when i pull the handbreak up, the wheel is stopped..and after i release back the handbreak.. the lever at caliper side does not go completley to off position and stays slightley pulled. If i just tuch the cable a littile with my hand than it goes off ok. That is why i am blaming the cables...

[gazza1286]

Cables don't need replacing with those symptoms. Spraying some silicone lubricant into the handbrake sheath will assist. These brake cables only present problems when water can get into the outer when the rubber boot fails.

 The handbrake lever needs some attention. The lever is gummed up. The movement of the lever is very small during normal operation. It's movement is restricted due to the pads. Remove the caliper and examine the lever range. This should improve with some lubrication. Make sure that the sliders are lubed when replacing the caliper. You'll probably solve this problem at no cost and little effort.

[warrengauci]

Thanks very much for you advice and assistance. I will have a go at lubrication. I will have a good look at the handbreak lever also. I will let you know how it goes at the end of the week  s:) s:)
Thanks again

[CrazySX]

Cables don't need replacing with those symptoms. Spraying some silicone lubricant into the handbrake sheath will assist. These brake cables only present problems when water can get into the outer when the rubber boot fails.

 The handbrake lever needs some attention. The lever is gummed up. The movement of the lever is very small during normal operation. It's movement is restricted due to the pads. Remove the caliper and examine the lever range. This should improve with some lubrication. Make sure that the sliders are lubed when replacing the caliper. You'll probably solve this problem at no cost and little effort.

I agree with this! I have shot WD40 down and sticky catch cable and a sticky throttle cable in the past with good results!  s:) s:)