Getting to the bottom of oil control rings

[Carolyn]

I think all can agree that the one thing you don't do is replace an early 1ZZ with another!  After that it's a matter of taste, opinion and budget. I think many folk with an early oil-burner, just want a cost-effective way to cure the problem.  Others, who are more performance-conscious will be prepared to spend more money.

[chimpman]

I just love my little MR S.  Having lavished various bits on her (leather seats, front spots, chain and belt tensioners , all-round brake overhaul, face-lift rear wheels and new tyres.....), I was a a little miffed to find she uses oil (far too much) when driven hard.  This car exists to be driven hard.
As a long time mechanic and engineer, I knew I just could not live with serious oil consumption, it's just plain offensive.
I've read all the stuff on 'oval bore's, pre-cats and oil-control rings, and done some research amongst knowledgeable (professional) colleagues.
Let's first look at symptoms.  There are few to none when the car is driven.  No smoke, good performance and a blast to drive.  Ok, do a compression check.  190 psi across all four cylinders, so no problems with the bores. (No way all the bores would be equally oval or giving 5psi above manufacturer's ideal top pressure).
BUT... this is an engine with 80,000 miles on it and it's 13 years old.  The compression should not be that high.  One should be just as suspicious of high compression readings as low ones.
"I've got really good compression" can mean... the compression pressure is just to high for a healthy engine.
This engine has a decat exhaust that has been on there a long time and has really good power, so it's not pre-cat damaged.  What is does have is a manufacture date of 2002.
So why the high compression?  Wet rings - a result of the oil control rings not doing their job.
My colleagues also said that, apart from problems with the piston design, the original oil control rings lacked the tension needed to do a proper job over time.  Worse... there is a fundamental design flaw in other oil-ways in the early 1ZZ.
I could rebuild the engine...parts.gaskets,,, timing gear (silly not to do it) add up to quite a few hundreds of £s, many woman-hours of graft and my toy off the road for quite a while.
Solution... buy a low mileage 2005 engine. swap all the new bits from the old engine to the replacement one, and swap out the engines. I was very lucky to find one for $420.  I had considered a 2ZZ, but I just won't use the high-end power very much and she's a JDM, TRD loaded original... So I decided to stick with the 140 bhp motor.
As this car is a keeper, I'm taking the opportunity to do all the little detailed bits that a commercial engine swapper wouldn't do, like sealing and painting the cross-member, cleaning the engine compartment, straightening out a couple of bent body parts and making her sweet for the next few years.
Now replacing drive shaft boots and she can go back together...

Wish I had a garage. Love to have a go at some proper maintenance. By the way, saw this on twitter. Oil burners seem to be a not uncommon issue  m https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3CYr ... TdfbEVjSjg m

[Joesson]

Quote from Chimpman:

"
Wish I had a garage. Love to have a go at some proper maintenance. By the way, saw this on twitter. Oil burners seem to be a not uncommon issue  m https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3CYr ... TdfbEVjSjg m [/quote]"

I wonder if that is a diesel?
When things start to go wrong !!!!!!!

[Carolyn]

As promised, I'm reporting on the oil control rings and pistons from the 2001 engine I took out.  It's taken some time to get round to taking the thing apart.  The good stuff:  Original honing still visible, cylinders in excellent shape, as is the bottom end.
Pistons 2, 3 and 4 well gummed up.  I was truly surprised to see how tiny the oil holes actually are!!  The rest of the engine, if a bit mucky, is in super shape.  The head is good but pretty coked up from all that oil.  Replacement pistons of the latest type, new rod bearings (why not for £30?) light hone, new head gasket and valve seals (again why not?) and it's a good 'un.  About £120 in parts and, all in all, a full day's labour.  
If you've got an old tear-out......

[shnazzle]

That's not bad at all. Brilliant that it's only 1 day labor for you  s:) s:)  I envy your skills

[Carolyn]

That's not bad at all. Brilliant that it's only 1 day labor for you  s:) s:)  I envy your skills

more 'Really well tooled up' than skill!!

[shnazzle]

That's not bad at all. Brilliant that it's only 1 day labor for you  s:) s:)  I envy your skills

more 'Really well tooled up' than skill!!

It does make a difference... But you definitely have to know what you're doing when you've got a block apart I reckon

[Carolyn]

A lot depends on what you find.

[1979scotte]

I would never get it back together again.
Or i would have a couple of bits left over.

[mrzwei]

Great stuff! That's a really encouraging result and I think is similar to the solution that Matt Performance came up with.
We are too quick to write off the whole engine when in reality it may only be about the latest pistons and rings.

Your skill though is to know how to recognise that that is the problem / solution.

[Carolyn]

Great stuff! That's a really encouraging result and I think is similar to the solution that Matt Performance came up with.
We are too quick to write off the whole engine when in reality it may only be about the latest pistons and rings.

Your skill though is to know how to recognise that that is the problem / solution.

If you've got an oil-burner, that runs well with no obvious other symptoms, a quick compression check will tell the story.  If the compression is not down a little on manufacturer's specs, it's oil control rings 95% of the time.  You still have the hassle of taking the engine out, but with new pistons and rod-shells you'll have a 'known' reliable engine.  That beats buying a used one, which may have the same, or another problem.
There are quite a few real enthusiasts here who are happy to throw money at their baby (Why not?), but many members just want an inexpensive result and a reliable car.  This solution is for them.

[shnazzle]

Great stuff! That's a really encouraging result and I think is similar to the solution that Matt Performance came up with.
We are too quick to write off the whole engine when in reality it may only be about the latest pistons and rings.

Your skill though is to know how to recognise that that is the problem / solution.

If you've got an oil-burner, that runs well with no obvious other symptoms, a quick compression check will tell the story.  If the compression is not down a little on manufacturer's specs, it's oil control rings 95% of the time.  You still have the hassle of taking the engine out, but with new pistons and rod-shells you'll have a 'known' reliable engine.  That beats buying a used one, which may have the same, or another problem.
There are quite a few real enthusiasts here who are happy to throw money at their baby (Why not?), but many members just want an inexpensive result and a reliable car.  This solution is for them.

I'm being lazy here but is there a step by step guide already to take people through this process?
I'm convinced that a lot of this stuff is 100% doable by anybody with a moderate level of skill, if the correct instructions are available.
And tools of course...

[keljon]

the later pistons are modified i believe to stop them from gumming up again

[shnazzle]

the later pistons are modified i believe to stop them from gumming up again

I think Carolyn said she put in the latest pistons last time, so I'm quite surprised that 3 of the 4 cylinders were heavily gummed up

[Joesson]

Great stuff! That's a really encouraging result and I think is similar to the solution that Matt Performance came up with.
We are too quick to write off the whole engine when in reality it may only be about the latest pistons and rings.

Your skill though is to know how to recognise that that is the problem / solution.

If you've got an oil-burner, that runs well with no obvious other symptoms, a quick compression check will tell the story.  If the compression is not down a little on manufacturer's specs, it's oil control rings 95% of the time.  You still have the hassle of taking the engine out, but with new pistons and rod-shells you'll have a 'known' reliable engine.  That beats buying a used one, which may have the same, or another problem.
There are quite a few real enthusiasts here who are happy to throw money at their baby (Why not?), but many members just want an inexpensive result and a reliable car.  This solution is for them.

I'm being lazy here but is there a step by step guide already to take people through this process?
I'm convinced that a lot of this stuff is 100% doable by anybody with a moderate level of skill, if the correct instructions are


available.
And tools of course...

I believe there are other Toyota models with the same engine for which Haynes and similar manuals exist.

[Carolyn]

the later pistons are modified i believe to stop them from gumming up again

I think Carolyn said she put in the latest pistons last time, so I'm quite surprised that 3 of the 4 cylinders were heavily gummed up

nope - never touched this engine before.  Latest pistons now going in.

[andyroo104]

My pfl engine had a replacement short block fitted by Toyota under warranty in 2007 at 77,000 miles,now on 106,000 and never uses a drop of oil.
My old Fl 2003 engine at 89,000 miles burnt more oil than petrol and had FSH at yearly intervals.

[Carolyn]

Bugger!  Wrote a mini @how to' and it disappeared in the ether.!
Simply put, take the engine out to do this work Pan off and head off.  There are loads of vids and 'how-to's@ out there. Google each step.  If you are capable of removing and replacing an engine, you can do this.   If not, you'll need a mechanic or help from someone who has the knowledge.

[Carolyn]

If you've got an oil-burner, that runs well with no obvious other symptoms, a quick compression check will tell the story.  If the compression is not down a little on manufacturer's specs, it's oil control rings 95% of the time.  You still have the hassle of taking the engine out, but with new pistons and rod-shells you'll have a 'known' reliable engine.  That beats buying a used one, which may have the same, or another problem.
There are quite a few real enthusiasts here who are happy to throw money at their baby (Why not?), but many members just want an inexpensive result and a reliable car.  This solution is for them.

I'm being lazy here but is there a step by step guide already to take people through this process?
I'm convinced that a lot of this stuff is 100% doable by anybody with a moderate level of skill, if the correct instructions are


available.
And tools of course...

I believe there are other Toyota models with the same engine for which Haynes and similar manuals exist.

Avensis.