adding rear speakers help

mickeyfish · November 18, 2015, 11:12

got a stock 80556 cd/radio. is it a straight forward job to add extra speakers, or will I need new lead/block whatever?. are there spare wires for rear speakers to join to?. do I add wires to block thingy? may prob change radio at some point in the future. early days for me. some ideas would be great. speakers are gonna be at back of seats, on luggage doors. are component speakers ok for back?, or coaxial.? little bunny rabbit in my brain is getting out of breath.lol. okay with practical diy, but electrickery always kicks my ass.

JoeCool · November 18, 2015, 11:26

The stick headunit won't do it I don't think, I don't believe it has 4 discreet channels to drive rear speakers with the 2 rear ones. (i could be wrong!)

If you're planning on an aftermarket headunit, then they are almost all 4 channel, so capable of driving fronts and rears.

However, I'm of the opinion that best bang for buck comes from adding a small 2 channel amplifier and amplifying upgraded front speakers. Much better solution for musicality, compactness and neatness.

vx220 · November 18, 2015, 12:34

Quote from: "JoeCool"However, I'm of the opinion that best bang for buck comes from adding a small 2 channel amplifier and amplifying upgraded front speakers. Much better solution for musicality, compactness and neatness.

Agreed

Deaden the doors, use standard speakers to make mounts for new speakers, will sound better with aftermarket head unit and even better still with an amp.

But I think the best thing I did was the under dash active sub. It was the last thing, but while the doors (deadened and with amped component speakers) sounded good, the sub took it to a new level!

No loss of storage, well out of the way of my feet, takes the strain off the mid-bass door speakers so they sound better, still audible top-down, brilliant

I suspect the bog standard system with the sub may have been enough, but as a package it sounds brilliant

mickeyfish · November 18, 2015, 15:11

the hu has a front rear fade function, so figured it might have some way of adding speakers. (use standard speakers to make mounts for new speakers)....not sure what that means. sorry if I appear thick. are you referring to the frame around the old speakers?. I seem to remember changing the speakers on my other mr. they had a bonded type of surround. threw them away and re drilled new speakers. should I have done it different.

tomaky · November 18, 2015, 17:46

Would this simplify things?

mickeyfish · November 18, 2015, 18:30

that's it. spot on. gonna reinforce the back and use car fabric or carbon for the front face. got my eye on some soundstream tarantula speakers. I hope their not rubbish, I like the spider fronts. lol. tacky or what ha ha..........could also get fli sub. good contrast, or do I need to give my head a good shake.

vx220 · November 18, 2015, 22:55

I guess the question is how much the Soundstream speakers are?

I bought a Pioneer TS-WX120A for £99.99, and it took a few hours to make brackets and run wires but it made a huge difference. If you were closer I'd be happy to demo! Or even help...

These things work with any head unit, hang under the dash above your feet so no cutting and reinforcing the (rattly) storage compartment doors. No worrying about what you put in the rear compartments, damaging the backs of your speakers. No security issues (providing you turn it down in dodgy areas)

The only downside is the cost, so it just depends on the difference between the sub and the Soundstreams

Tell me if I have gone too evangelical on the subject!

mickeyfish · November 19, 2015, 00:05

you have a good point vx. the soundstreams are £100. I like the look of the pioneer ts. it will sort the l/f sound out. the bass is the most important aspect for me. the door speakers rattle like hell when at pretty high volume,( AC/DC, iron maiden, mostly heavy metal). so need something that will cope. I suspect I will need to direct the sound towards the frunk,,,,,,,,or maybe even in it, if I swap the emergency wheel for a inflatable unit. and build a sub in the wheel well, or a good set of headphones,,,, hang on a moment while I get a grip ha ha. the passenger side is no real problem for a sub. my wife wont go in the mr, she prefers the safety of our 7 seater s max titanium. (and Michael bubble, bobble, wotsisface)oh, and and pepper pig on the dvd for the foster children. need to get those crap speakers out of the doors. need some bass. that's it.... not even started with h/u yet lol...
still like the ones in the bin doors though. s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

vx220 · November 19, 2015, 00:17

Spend £20-30 deadening the doors, keep the standard speakers for now if they're in good shape, and grab that sub!

I used builders banding to make brackets, have a look underneath the steering wheel by the pedals, amazing amount of space under there!

Our new placement hates rock and metal, until I pointed out ACDC did the Iron-man soundtrack, now he loves it!

One of my colleagues partners is a death metal singer/guitarist, she's lent me some of his CDs, thought it might be cool to get him to listen to his music in the car, see if I did a good job with my system?

vx220 · November 20, 2015, 06:55

I'll just leave this here...

m http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pioneer-TS-WX11 ... B0052T4KIW m

vx220 · November 20, 2015, 06:59

...oh, and this one!

m http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pioneer-TS-WX12 ... B00L12UZ0Q m

Both of these will fit under the dash. I have the 120a, a tiny bit slimmer than the 110

Under the dash sounds best (Shnazzle was very helpful in making my mind up about this) and isn't too tricky.

Good, tight fast bass, been listening to Stone Sour, 303150 rocks!