Which oil?

Started by Logan, March 7, 2016, 22:37

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Logan

Going to change the oil on my 2 but can't decide between 5w 30 or 5w 40. The engine has 120k on it and it will be doing mostly a 5 mile drive across Manchester city centre so not a lot of time to warm up, I'll be going with the Fuchs Titan xtr it's just which viscosity?

Cheers.

Ardent

#1
Based on info provided. 5/30 as spec.

CrazySX

#2
Based on the mileage I would say 5w 40 as the winter rating is the same but the viscosity at 100 degrees will give you better protection. 5w 30 is what you put in them new.

AndyM

#3
I have tried both back to back in mine (although I use the Titan Race Pro S) and opted for the 5w40 in the end as I feel it worked better in my engine (currently at 87,500 miles). I'd personally go for the 5w40 in your position too.
Ex-owner: 2003 Sable - Hardtop, Black Leather, A/C, lots (and lots) of mods

Bernie

#4
Quote from: "AndyM"I have tried both back to back in mine (although I use the Titan Race Pro S) and opted for the 5w40 in the end as I feel it worked better in my engine (currently at 87,500 miles). I'd personally go for the 5w40 in your position too.

+ 1

I carried on from where FGrob left off with this and doesn't use a drop of oil between services
Black 2004  N/A  Many Mods = 171BHP 
2019 & 2021 MR2DC National Day Modified Best in Class
Readers Ride
https://www.mr2roc.org/index.php?topic=56481.0

CrazySX

#5
Quote from: "bernie11a"
Quote from: "AndyM"I have tried both back to back in mine (although I use the Titan Race Pro S) and opted for the 5w40 in the end as I feel it worked better in my engine (currently at 87,500 miles). I'd personally go for the 5w40 in your position too.

+ 1

I carried on from where FGrob left off with this and doesn't use a drop of oil between services

How much did it consume before you switched to this?

Bernie

#6
Quote from: "CrazySX"
Quote from: "bernie11a"
Quote from: "AndyM"I have tried both back to back in mine (although I use the Titan Race Pro S) and opted for the 5w40 in the end as I feel it worked better in my engine (currently at 87,500 miles). I'd personally go for the 5w40 in your position too.

+ 1

I carried on from where FGrob left off with this and doesn't use a drop of oil between services

How much did it consume before you switched to this?


None, ever

Has always been serviced correctly and Rob was using this oil from 2009 and I have as well in 3 years of ownership
Black 2004  N/A  Many Mods = 171BHP 
2019 & 2021 MR2DC National Day Modified Best in Class
Readers Ride
https://www.mr2roc.org/index.php?topic=56481.0

tricky1138

#7
Opie oil are doing 15% off at the min!

 l viewtopic.php?f=38&t=58066 l
2004 FL, Black, Matt Brace, Team Dynamics Monza R, Tein Springs, TTE Exhaust, heated black leather seats, black leather armrest,  Zunsport grills, Midship front badge,  TRD spoiler, Halo DRLs with LED fogs, large clear wind defector, Krissg kick panels,  small mongos.

Logan

#8
Got the 5w-30 before seeing these replies, with Opie oils being so cheap I'll use it for 6 months and change again!

onion86

#9
I've gone for 5w-40 SuperSyn this time (from Amazon as no P&P), previously used XTR and Race Pro-S prior to that... For general road use I can't see the need for the Race Pro-S.
Sable 55 C-One MR2 C2 Turbo - A/C, Black Heated Leather, TTE Twin Exhaust, Cruise Control

Ardent

#10
Quote from: "Logan"Got the 5w-30 before seeing these replies, with Opie oils being so cheap I'll use it for 6 months and change again!

Excellent choice. A lot of folks on here change at 6 months as part of their normal routine. Me included.

As others have alluded, if it has been well maintained and not burning any, 5/30 is fine.

Can you put some meat on the bones.
Regular service?
Using any oil?
Colour of oil?

Ardent

#11
Quote from: "onion86"I've gone for 5w-40 SuperSyn this time (from Amazon as no P&P), previously used XTR and Race Pro-S prior to that... For general road use I can't see the need for the Race Pro-S.

+1 on the 5-40 SuperSyn. Very happy with it general B road use. Do not feel the need for the pro s stuff. Is it better still?, it ought to be at twice the price.

£25 for 5 litres. Sorted.

Just for clarity, having said 5-30 in the post above. Mr T spec for a TTE is 5-40.

1979scotte

#12
Is it really Jason good job thats what i put in my SP240 then.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

Ardent

#13
Yep!
Check you scans of the TTE service booklet.
And change it every 7500km (5000m) or every 6 months.

CSPIDY

#14
5W-30 will perform the best. even with high miles heavier oil don't work as well.

1979scotte

#15
Quote from: "Ardent"Yep!
Check you scans of the TTE service booklet.
And change it every 7500km (5000m) or every 6 months.

Best tell Steve that.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

Jock

#16
"30" and "40" are not directly comparable between oils.  From a UK perspective and the different driving of individuals its not going to make a lot of difference in road use.  If the engine is well worn maybe the "40" is recommended but a better quality "30" might have better protection for the engine.

I am currently using Mobil1 0w40 fully synthetic as an experiment.  Mainly because over the winter I drive for about 5/10 miles before really warmed up and the lower viscosity should help at the low temps.  I'll change oils and filter when we have a summer's day which will be standard MrT cos he gave me 5litres FOC.  Only rule I follow is not to mix   s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:

AndyM

#17
Ultimately you have to make your own choices and by happy with them.

I had a long discussion with Oilman (Opie Oils, he really knows his stuff) about my oil selection when I first got the car and this is what led me towards my decision to run 5w40 (but only after actually trying both back to back in my car to make my own mind up).

The Mr T spec of 5w30 is arguably the "right" oil for the engine, especially when new and when maintained properly. However the viscosity characteristics of the 5w40 can help in some circumstances, specifically if an engine is a little more worn or burning a bit of oil. This is because the heavier fluid is more forgiving of small imperfections in the engine and can help stop some ingress that lighter oils. My engine for example was 'burning' about 200ml between changes (minor use and really only if I'd done some really hard driving). After moving to 5w40 that oil use was reduced to zero. I then went back to 5w30 for a change and the 200ml usage came back almost exactly. I have then moved onto 5w40 full time and the engine is sweet as a nut.

Oilman gave me a load of info about the different types/formulas of oil and the conclusion is that from a lubrication perspective as long as the 5w40 is a decent quality fully synth there is really nothing in it verses the 5w30 for these engines in normal use. Yes, 5w30 is the 'recommended oil', it doesn't mean it's the only one that is suitable.

For me if an engine is running 100% with zero oil use then 5w30 is the way to go, however if you are getting a bit of burn my experience is that 5w40 can effectively halt the progression of this before it properly starts. As I say, I've been running it for 3 years and 40,000 miles and it's brilliant.

Regarding cost/quality... I've no doubt I've over spec'd the oil with the Pro S for road use but what my baby wants my baby gets.  s;) ;) s;)  At the end of the day its only a couple of quid and I like the knowledge that pretty much the best is keeping her running smoothly.
Ex-owner: 2003 Sable - Hardtop, Black Leather, A/C, lots (and lots) of mods

1979scotte

#18
Cost cant really come into it for me.
When a tank of super is 40-50 quid whats another 40-50 once or twice a year for qualty fully synthetic.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

Bernie

#19
Quote from: "1979scotte"Cost cant really come into it for me.
When a tank of super is 40-50 quid whats another 40-50 once or twice a year for qualty fully synthetic.

Regarding cost/quality... I've no doubt I've over spec'd the oil with the Pro S for road use but what my baby wants my baby gets.  s;) ;) s;)  At the end of the day its only a couple of quid and I like the knowledge that pretty much the best is keeping her running smoothly.

Fully agree
Black 2004  N/A  Many Mods = 171BHP 
2019 & 2021 MR2DC National Day Modified Best in Class
Readers Ride
https://www.mr2roc.org/index.php?topic=56481.0

Ardent

#20
Quote from: "1979scotte"
Quote from: "Ardent"Yep!
Check you scans of the TTE service booklet.
And change it every 7500km (5000m) or every 6 months.

Best tell Steve that.

Have all ready furnished him with a copy of the service booklet.   s:D :D s:D  
Very hand for service time diagnostics/scoping and just checking everything operating as it should.

Whilst looking back at the booklet. It lends itself to backing up all the contributions above.
As it also lists Jocks 0-40 as suitable.
And just to through a curve ball in, it also lists a 5-50.
I went with the 5-40.

This topic would work really well in a pub round a fire with beverage of choice.

AndyM

#21
Quote from: "Ardent"This topic would work really well in a pub round a fire with beverage of choice.

I can't think of many topics that wouldn't work in those circumstances!   s:D :D s:D
Ex-owner: 2003 Sable - Hardtop, Black Leather, A/C, lots (and lots) of mods

georgelam

#22
i changed the oil last sunday.I ve got 96k on the clock and i putted 10w40

CSPIDY

#23
With regards to running heavier oils, 40 or 50 w and there is no oil loss dosn't mean the oil is doing a better job of lubricating the internal parts of the engine. Oil needs to flow and creep into places to do it's job. Heavier or thicker oils do not flow as well. If it dosn.t flow as well it will hold the heat in the engine. Friction and heat is the devil of the engine. To get the most life from the engine it would be better to let it burn.

For more info check out; bobistheoilguy.com very good read. It will explain why most OEM's are leaning towards thinner lighter oils.

Logan

#24
Quote from: "CSPIDY"With regards to running heavier oils, 40 or 50 w and there is no oil loss dosn't mean the oil is doing a better job of lubricating the internal parts of the engine. Oil needs to flow and creep into places to do it's job. Heavier or thicker oils do not flow as well. If it dosn.t flow as well it will hold the heat in the engine. Friction and heat is the devil of the engine. To get the most life from the engine it would be better to let it burn.

For more info check out; bobistheoilguy.com very good read. It will explain why most OEM's are leaning towards thinner lighter oils.



Interesting point, I'll read that.

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