The most boost run

[1979scotte]

Put the old spring back in and adjust the arm so it holds the right boost.
If you do something wrong with the 15psi spring in place you could grenade your engine.

[wotugonado]

I haven't got the 15 psi spring, I've got the 2 lowest rated springs green and yellow, I will try to slacken the arm on the actuator while the yellow spring is in to try an drop a few psi, I also have a little idea which may or may not work, shall report back if it's a success

[1979scotte]

I haven't got the 15 psi spring, I've got the 2 lowest rated springs green and yellow, I will try to slacken the arm on the actuator while the yellow spring is in to try an drop a few psi, I also have a little idea which may or may not work, shall report back if it's a success

The green would be my choice max 10 psi

[loadswine]

You could try the lower strength spring and a manual boost control valve. The actuator won't see any boost until the valve opens, which can help maintain boost too, but at the right level.

[wotugonado]

The green would be my choice max 10 psi

That's the problem it's looks good on paper but is opening at between 2 and 5 psi hence why I tried the yellow.

[1979scotte]

The green would be my choice max 10 psi

That's the problem it's looks good on paper but is opening at between 2 and 5 psi hence why I tried the yellow.

Yes but if you adjust the arm i would hope it would work correctly.
I would try it and see.

[wotugonado]

You could try the lower strength spring and a manual boost control valve. The actuator won't see any boost until the valve opens, which can help maintain boost too, but at the right level.

Well what Im going to try is put a standard compression spring the same length inside the green spring and fit that back into the actuator, hopefully with a little trial and error I can strengthen the green springs resistance to get it back to around 7 psi.

[Anonymous]

Try the green spring, pull the actuator out a bit holding the wastegate shut and shorten the actuator bar on the thread. My forge has a 5psi in and it bob on everytime so something is not right if it a 7psi spring.

Or fit a boost controller in and that will put it dead on 7 with the green spring.

[1979scotte]

Try the green spring, pull the actuator out a bit holding the wastegate shut and shorten the actuator bar on the thread. My forge has a 5psi in and it bob on everytime so something is not right if it a 7psi spring.

Or fit a boost controller in and that will put it dead on 7 with the green spring.

I think Rich and i are on the same page here.
This is the proper way to do it.
If it works then all is good if not you can try the bodge but something isnt right.

[wotugonado]

I did set the arm up on the actuator so its about 10mm short and I really have to pull it out to attach to the waste gate, I shall give it another whirl, it's not going to cost me anything to try

[wotugonado]

So update I left the yellow spring in(because I was too lazy to strip it out again and just wanted to enjoy driving it for a bit) i did however wind the arm out, and  it lowered the boost to a more respectable level peaking around 9 to 10 psi. It still spiked to 11 on occasion so I will use the bank holiday to refit the green spring, until  I can plumb in an afr gauge to keep an eye on it.

[maybeturbo]

What are people's opinions on a safe afr reading on a turbo 1zzfe. I know that on previous cars I've had, that were boosted from factory you want to see 11 ish on a wide band but that's running at least a bar.  I would assume the lower boost on an engine with high compression internals you don't need to be as rich on boost, so what's acceptably safe? 12? 12.5?

[stupink]

high compression makes it more likely to detonate, so you have to run rich as cooling.. so I go 11's as per a high boost turbo.. but then I run quite a few psi.  i'd personally be going 11-11.5 max

[maybeturbo]

I mean cos your running relatively low boost as its a high comp engine. That rich on good octane fuel? Mind you, at 293hp and stock internals your hardly on the side of caution, So you must be doing it right!

[stupink]

Don't get me wrong, I've ran it leaner, up nearer to the low 12's and it didn't destruct itself instantly.. (during mapping), but there was not really any significant power benefit, and seeing as you only use a bit more fuel on full throttle and probably arnt on full throttle that much I think its safer to have some good fuel-cooling. Sadly I don't have exhaust gas temperature... ( a deliberate thing so I don't worry all the time like I used to) that would have shown a good difference between 11 and 12 and shown how the engine really responds.

[Swan_Connery]

With the emanage I was at 10psi. Now with Powerfc I run 7psi.

AFR I'm on about 12.2-12.7 from what I see daily on my old wideband. Not sure how much it's out though.

 Here is a question though, where should the best AFR reading be taken when tuning? Out of one of the two exhuast pipes like most tuners, or remove one of the existing lambda probes and use it's location, but which one? There are two just in my manifold, one in my downpipe and one before it splits into the two tailpipes.