Yellowspeed coilovers

Started by MR Roadie 2, May 22, 2016, 13:15

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MR Roadie 2

Firstly I would like thank the wee man who went out smoothed off all the roads while my car was in the garage being fitted out with Yellowspeed coilovers.   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:   If there is no wee man out there smoothing off the rounds then my coilovers must be better than I expected.

Bought my coilovers from GT-4 Play with a great service and coilovers were delivered in 2 weeks of order.
My coilovers have 4/6 springs fitted to them as its all road driving I do, this was easily arranged by GT-4 Play.
I got the coilovers fitted and alinement set up at my mates garage. When I picked up my car the mechanic informed me that the coilovers had been lowered by 20mm for it's original height, as I requested and that the coilovers were set at their softest settings.

I have now taken my car a 150mile drive and found the car to be a lot smoother with less vibration through the car, as expected. The handling is still great with very little roll that I could notice. Although I was not pushing too hard though the corners. Some of my local roads have rough patches of tar. Before I would get strong vibrations through the car. I  hated these roads, but now I have no issue.

The car is far smoother, but I will be playing the stiffness on the suspension and report back or any issues that I may fine.

Unfortunately I have no experience on other set ups like standard struts with lowered springs or other coilover suppliers, so I can not compare, but from my first experience of the Yellowspeed coilovers I am very happy and very much looking forward to my North Coast 500 trip later this year and many mile of motoring to come.   s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
2000 silver, Red leather seats, A/C.
Mods so far- 2005 Engine, Hankook tyres, Goodridge braided lines, EBC Greenstuff, Matt Performance brace, FL front brace, Yellowspeed coilovers, Custom quad exhaust + toyo manifold, markiii pipe, K&N Panel filter, TRD side skirts, rear spats, rear spoiler.

2006 Silver SP240 Turbo, red & black seats & red/black steering wheel, hardtop, ac, Halo DRL/Fog lights,

jvanzyl

#1
Hey man,
Thanks for posting the review. That's great to hear how much you're liking them.
Are you coming to ding day? Would love to have a ride and see what the difference is like...

MR Roadie 2

#2
Quote from: "jvanzyl"Hey man,
Thanks for posting the review. That's great to hear how much you're liking them.
Are you coming to ding day? Would love to have a ride and see what the difference is like...

Unfortunately I can't, other commitments.
Would have been great to meet a lot of people off the forum and see all the cars.
2000 silver, Red leather seats, A/C.
Mods so far- 2005 Engine, Hankook tyres, Goodridge braided lines, EBC Greenstuff, Matt Performance brace, FL front brace, Yellowspeed coilovers, Custom quad exhaust + toyo manifold, markiii pipe, K&N Panel filter, TRD side skirts, rear spats, rear spoiler.

2006 Silver SP240 Turbo, red & black seats & red/black steering wheel, hardtop, ac, Halo DRL/Fog lights,

russthedude

#3
I fitted mine last night, had a great drive in to work today. I just need to adjust front camber slightly, but also noticed the rear camber needs some adjustment but can't see how to do it. at the moment I've got -3 degrees on there and I'd like to be at 0. I had them on the stiffest setting for the drive in lol felt every single bump so I've gone for half way for the drive home!

I knew my old suspension would be cack in comparison, but I can't believe how much better it corners. I've never felt mine was great but the difference is like day and night. as an example, if I honed it around a roundabout, I wouldn't get any tyre squeal but the front would start to lose grip and understeer. Now, I can take the same roundabout at a much higher speed, tyres squeeling and no understeer.

If anyone is considering buying these, just do it. I replaced all the drop links while I was there as well as track rod ends. the rear is about 20mm lower, but the front seem higher, so I'll whip the wheels off and get them lowered at some point once things have settled a bit.

shnazzle

#4
The rear needs camber bolts to adjust. Surprised you got that much camber after installing though. - 3 is tons
...neutiquam erro.

SombreroPeak

#5
These positive reviews make these very tempting, think I'll start a fund. So much for not getting the mod bug...you rotters!
\'N-chilada\' 2003 Chili Red, Black Leather interior

MR Roadie 2

#6
Been a few months and 1500 mile since my last review.
After looking at various threads and reviews on the forum I decided to go with 4/6kg springs as I am driving roads and currently I do not intend to take my car onto a track. Although this could change, I might need to try this.

The yellow speed coilover come with a allen key wheel for each strut. The rear struts, no problem. Drop the key into the strut and leave it there. There is clearance between the top of the allen key wheel and boot lid.
The front, I have had to make access hole on the frunk lid/cover. I have drilled holes above each strut and dropped the allen key wheel down into the front strut. This saves me the issue of having to remove the frunk cover ever time I want to adjust the strut.
This was one of the reasons I had not summited a review before now as removing the frunk cover for access to the front struts was a pain.

I am enjoying my Yellowspeed coilovers as they still work great and I am still trying to find the best settings for my struts. I also had my car lowered by 20mm, when the coilovers where fitted.
When I first fitted the coilovers and went out with all struts set at soft. Vibrations over some rough roads where the tarmac was cracking up are a lot better, thus less vibration within the car. On some roads where the tarmac is not flat (goes up and down like the big dipper) the car can feel bouncy. Corners were great but I could fell some roll in the car.
I then set the rear strut to full hard and front full soft, I never had access the front struts at this point. Don't do this, the car was horrible, bouncing and vibrations at once. Just don't do it   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  .

I then set all the struts to full hard setting. The car corners with less roll, the bouncing is less, but the drive harsh with vibrations due to poor roads, pot holes and tarmac cracks where road repairs have been done.

So currently and best of all so far I have my settings at (if 1 is soft and hard is 33 clicks) 15 clicks on the front and 8 clicks at the back. The car is much better, my only issue is that I sometimes fell the car is a bit bouncy. I am think about taking the front up 5 clicks and the rear up 2 clicks.

I feel the roads are the main issue, with different surfaces from one road to the next. I have recently went a few runs where the road surfaces were far better and the coilovers performed perfectly in the 15f/8r clicks set.

I will be trying some other settings as I would like to eliminate the bouncing feeling but try and pick up less vibration through the car, although the bouncing feeling and vibrations smooth off themselves when I accelerate. Must be the transfer in power.  

Hopefully some of you can help me with input to the set up or what are cars are running at? I would appreciate input from you suspension guru's.  s:) :) s:)  

Other than trying find the best set up for my suspension (which is fun on it's own) to minimise bouncing and minimise road vibration, which I don't is achievable in a MR2 Roadster. The Yellowspeed coilovers have been great.  s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:  
Just for the record I am running standard 15"alloys on Hankook ventus prime2 tyres, which have been great.
2000 silver, Red leather seats, A/C.
Mods so far- 2005 Engine, Hankook tyres, Goodridge braided lines, EBC Greenstuff, Matt Performance brace, FL front brace, Yellowspeed coilovers, Custom quad exhaust + toyo manifold, markiii pipe, K&N Panel filter, TRD side skirts, rear spats, rear spoiler.

2006 Silver SP240 Turbo, red & black seats & red/black steering wheel, hardtop, ac, Halo DRL/Fog lights,

MR Roadie 2

#7
Still trying to resolve the bouncing on my coilovers. This is only noticeable with on uneven roads within 30mph zones.
I have put the compression to hard, which can be harsh and I still get bouncing.
I am thinking that my spring choose is to light? (4/6kg).  s:? :? s:?  
I have tried rising my spring platform 5mm on all corners yesterday (raising the preload) with the compression hard and felt a slight improvement as pre the bouncing but the road felt bumpy and harsh.
I do need to take the car out for a proper test drive before moving on, but we all know what's going to happen. I will drive down 1 or 2 30mph roads that are uneven find the car bouncing, then find myself on a 60mph having great fun and forget all about my main idea of the test drive  s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:  .
Do you think raising the preload could remove the bounce? or am I wasting my time.
My next plan maybe raising the preload another 5mm for a second time. Although I am unsure how much preload I can add to my car with out causing damage to the spring. I am sure when first fitting coilovers the general preload set up is to have the spring in place and tight enough that you can not twist or turn the spring by hand, then take the preload up 5mm.

I find this frustrating as once I am on quicker roads all is good.

Surely some off you with coilovers have had to play around a lot with the set up before finding the correct setting for you. Do ever have to raise the preload? if so how much and for what reason did you raise the preload? quarter mile strips or tracks maybe?

Any advice would be appreciated.   s:D :D s:D
2000 silver, Red leather seats, A/C.
Mods so far- 2005 Engine, Hankook tyres, Goodridge braided lines, EBC Greenstuff, Matt Performance brace, FL front brace, Yellowspeed coilovers, Custom quad exhaust + toyo manifold, markiii pipe, K&N Panel filter, TRD side skirts, rear spats, rear spoiler.

2006 Silver SP240 Turbo, red & black seats & red/black steering wheel, hardtop, ac, Halo DRL/Fog lights,

1979scotte

#8
My meister r are like this on the soft setting but once i stiffen it up 5 clicks or so sorts its self out.
On max stiffness 30 clicks or so its way too hard for road driving.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

MR Roadie 2

#9
Cheers 1979scotte

Ok, bounce up and down if your a muppet!  s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:   yip that will be me!.

What I felt to bouncing on uneven roads and patched up roads was not technically bouncing.
Imagine setting your compression to 18 click at the front and 12 clicks at the back. Do you think it'll be a smooth ride? No!.
So when I was telling my mate the car was bouncing, he advices me to stiffen the compression by 2 click then try again.

What I thought was bouncing was actually hard compression not absorbing the road. Although I do think the walls of my tyres are soft.

Tonight's test drive had me down at 1 click all round and all is better.
I'll be take back off my extra 5mm preload that I put on the spring yesterday and hopefully get better use of my Yellowspeed coil overs.

Wee tip to anyone buying coil overs. Start from soft stiffen up the compression 2 clicks at a time then try them on a rough road.   s:) :) s:)  don't go in head strong ramping them up to 10 or greater.

Apologies to Yellowspeed for my stupidity, your coilovers are still great! Oh and smooth, when at a soft setting.  s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:
2000 silver, Red leather seats, A/C.
Mods so far- 2005 Engine, Hankook tyres, Goodridge braided lines, EBC Greenstuff, Matt Performance brace, FL front brace, Yellowspeed coilovers, Custom quad exhaust + toyo manifold, markiii pipe, K&N Panel filter, TRD side skirts, rear spats, rear spoiler.

2006 Silver SP240 Turbo, red & black seats & red/black steering wheel, hardtop, ac, Halo DRL/Fog lights,

shnazzle

#10
Also, try harder on the rear than at the front. Rear is heavier.

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
...neutiquam erro.

MR Roadie 2

#11
Quote from: "shnazzle"Also, try harder on the rear than at the front. Rear is heavier.

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

No! Am not playing with the compression anymore. I'll just put more air pressure into the rear tyres, that should be fun?   s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes:
2000 silver, Red leather seats, A/C.
Mods so far- 2005 Engine, Hankook tyres, Goodridge braided lines, EBC Greenstuff, Matt Performance brace, FL front brace, Yellowspeed coilovers, Custom quad exhaust + toyo manifold, markiii pipe, K&N Panel filter, TRD side skirts, rear spats, rear spoiler.

2006 Silver SP240 Turbo, red & black seats & red/black steering wheel, hardtop, ac, Halo DRL/Fog lights,

1979scotte

#12
Quote from: "MR Roadie 2"
Quote from: "shnazzle"Also, try harder on the rear than at the front. Rear is heavier.

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

No! Am not playing with the compression anymore. I'll just put more air pressure into the rear tyres, that should be fun?   s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes:


Honestly mate harder at the front should be unneccesary.
The front is ultra light and should be softer.
Springs at the front are always softer to reflect this.
Its the oposite of you usual front engine car where most of the weight is at the front.

Try 10 front 15 rear. Its not exactly difficult or time consuming.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

shnazzle

#13
If you're not sure what settings you ended up with, just start clicking back to 0 and count. Then reverse it for front/rear  s:) :) s:)  

That's what I do sometimes when I've forgotten what setting I'm on

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
...neutiquam erro.

MR Roadie 2

#14
Quote from: "1979scotte"
Quote from: "MR Roadie 2"
Quote from: "shnazzle"Also, try harder on the rear than at the front. Rear is heavier.

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

No! Am not playing with the compression anymore. I'll just put more air pressure into the rear tyres, that should be fun?   s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes:


Honestly mate harder at the front should be unneccesary.
The front is ultra light and should be softer.
Springs at the front are always softer to reflect this.
Its the oposite of you usual front engine car where most of the weight is at the front.

Try 10 front 15 rear. Its not exactly difficult or time consuming.

Just now I am enjoying smooth suspension for the road even if my coilovers are down at 1 click. After my recent experience I think my yellowspeed are hard enough without putting 10 clicks on the front and 15 on the rear, but I'm always up for trying something different   s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:  .
As long as I take it back to 1 click before my test driver (my wife) takes my car out.   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
2000 silver, Red leather seats, A/C.
Mods so far- 2005 Engine, Hankook tyres, Goodridge braided lines, EBC Greenstuff, Matt Performance brace, FL front brace, Yellowspeed coilovers, Custom quad exhaust + toyo manifold, markiii pipe, K&N Panel filter, TRD side skirts, rear spats, rear spoiler.

2006 Silver SP240 Turbo, red & black seats & red/black steering wheel, hardtop, ac, Halo DRL/Fog lights,

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