Yet another Induction kit idea......

[The Other Stu]

Firstly, it's fitted! I gave the pipe a good tug and it did indeed come off.

What I've done is take the pipe out, but leave the box and all the other bits there. It makes it much easier if I need to revert rather quickly.

However, what I have introduced is another rattle. I don't get why - the filter isn't really that close to the bodywork (although it's snug in some pipes).
It actually sounds like the filter itself is rattling. It's a K&N 57i - is it likely to degrade to the point it rattles?
Nothing seems loose.

I've also created a metal cover to stop the hot air getting in. I made it out an old tray I found in the garage. I've bolted it to the back of the battery holder - it's not that rattling btw, the rattle started before that.

It only rattles at low revs - it sounds great over 2000RPM proper throaty noise.

No real chance to have a good look until Saturday.

[shnazzle]

I gave the pipe a good tug and it did indeed come off.

Teehee... Bit aggressive

[AndyM]

Firstly, it's fitted! I gave the pipe a good tug and it did indeed come off.

Well done. What I've done is take the pipe out, but leave the box and all the other bits there. It makes it much easier if I need to revert rather quickly.

That'll be why you were having pipe removal issues as it all gets a bit cluttered in there. Why not just strip the air box out? It's only 2 bolts to remove/fit, looks better and gives the engine a bit more room/air to cool in. Why would you be reverting quickly out of interest?

However, what I have introduced is another rattle. I don't get why - the filter isn't really that close to the bodywork (although it's snug in some pipes).
It actually sounds like the filter itself is rattling. It's a K&N 57i - is it likely to degrade to the point it rattles?

There is the bottom end of a bolt that sticks down behind the battery from behind the lip of the engine lid. My Apexi cone (quite large) banged against it to start with so I adjusted it to sit a little lower down. Unless something is loose the filter shouldn't rattle, it's basically paper wrapped in some wire mesh so there is nothing significant to make a sound. Maybe a jubilee clip on something?

[The Other Stu]

Thanks Andy.

I shoved a bit of cardboard in between the top and the fillter this morning and it appeared to fix it.

However, performance is absolutely awful. I've lost the decent acceleration in low revs and changing gear.
It's fine above 3-4000RPM, but under that, it's not good.

Did you put a pipe to feed air from the intake directly to the cone?

I do like the noise though   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

[AndyM]

You can duct it if you want but it's not required. It definitely wouldn't give you the issue you describe.

First thing to try as an ECU reset (unplug the battery for 10 minutes), obviously all the fuel trims are set based on the stock arrangement so it needs to reconfigure to the new kit. Give the MAF a good clean before you do it too.

If that doesn't work my money would be on a seal issue. There have been cases with the homemade kits before that if they aren't sealed properly (e.g. the car is drawing air in after the MAF) then you get some weird performance issues as the car has no idea how much air is actually going in.

[The Other Stu]

You can duct it if you want but it's not required. It definitely wouldn't give you the issue you describe.

First thing to try as an ECU reset (unplug the battery for 10 minutes), obviously all the fuel trims are set based on the stock arrangement so it needs to reconfigure to the new kit. Give the MAF a good clean before you do it too.

If that doesn't work my money would be on a seal issue. There have been cases with the homemade kits before that if they aren't sealed properly (e.g. the car is drawing air in after the MAF) then you get some weird performance issues as the car has no idea how much air is actually going in.

OK, thanks. I'll check it again. I reckon it was unplugged for 15-20 minutes last night whilst I fitted it, but it may need a reset again.

I don't think there's any air getting in anywhere else - it's all very tight.

[AndyM]

If it was unplugged that long then it will have reset so tick that box unfortunately.

You mentioned the filter "degrading" is it not a new one? If not, have you checked it is clean enough for use? If it's gunked up then it could well be causing a big restriction that is only overcome when the throttle body is sucking in as much air as it can.

[The Other Stu]

If it was unplugged that long then it will have reset so tick that box unfortunately.

You mentioned the filter "degrading" is it not a new one? If not, have you checked it is clean enough for use? If it's gunked up then it could well be causing a big restriction that is only overcome when the throttle body is sucking in as much air as it can.

Nup, it was given to me - my son upgraded to a PPE - the damage is where it rubbed against the frame on his car.
It did look pretty clean, although maybe it needs a good soak (and a dry of course).

Someone said they used to disconnect their airbox to give the car a little noise. If I temporarily took the filter off, is it likely to break the engine just to see?

[AndyM]

You can run it without a filter but obviously the engine is then getting unfiltered air. I certainly wouldn't do it for any length of time but you might get away with it for a quick test (just don't do it somewhere wet/dusty!), maybe just a rev test on the drive for example.

[ChrisGB]

Most likely cause is the MAF not getting air correctly conditioned, leading to AFR issues.

[The Other Stu]

Most likely cause is the MAF not getting air correctly conditioned, leading to AFR issues.

When you say conditioned, not enough in?
It did this at cold this morning and slightly improved as the engine warmed.

[1979scotte]

Most likely cause is the MAF not getting air correctly conditioned, leading to AFR issues.

When you say conditioned, not enough in?
It did this at cold this morning and slightly improved as the engine warmed.

I think chris is reffering to the vanes in the standard set up that control the airflow pre maf.

[The Other Stu]

Most likely cause is the MAF not getting air correctly conditioned, leading to AFR issues.

When you say conditioned, not enough in?
It did this at cold this morning and slightly improved as the engine warmed.

I think chris is reffering to the vanes in the standard set up that control the airflow pre maf.

Ah OK.

The only thing I have pre-MAF is the filter.
I nipped out at lunchtime and fired it up. Sounded much healthier. Maybe the run out this morning gave it a good blow.

If I get time, I'll take it apart tonight, check for leaks and wash the filter. Leave it to fully dry and retest.
I take it there's no issues with using some silicon sealant on the joins? It's not like it should get really hot.

[Jock]

+1 for Chris comment.  See other posts with cheap or all purpose MAF holders.  The elise part I fitted was expensive but works.  The air from the cone maybe turbulent and inconsistent for the MAF.  The standard box has vanes for airflow stability.
Otherwise also looks like a jubilee clip is missing on the manifold side of the MAF holder   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  .

[The Other Stu]

+1 for Chris comment.  See other posts with cheap or all purpose MAF holders.  The elise part I fitted was expensive but works.  The air from the cone maybe turbulent and inconsistent for the MAF.  The standard box has vanes for airflow stability.
Otherwise also looks like a jubilee clip is missing on the manifold side of the MAF holder   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  .

Interestingly, it has its own clip type thing which supposedly holds the silicon tube. I think this might be what's causing the issue. I should be able to use a jubilee, but I might have to warm the silicon hose up first as it doesn't quite fit.

I've taken it off and returned to stock (I think I mentioned, I didn't remove the box, simply the pipe).

I think you're right. I might buy a hooky old box and use that.

It's definitely not getting the right air from the right place. Drove home tonight and it definitely felt much better. However, the EML came on. Plugged the OBDII in and it was P0171 and P0174 which implies it's getting the air from somewhere else, or not what it's after.

These things are a learning curve though and I'm learning  s:) s:)  If I really wanted to throw money at it, I'd buy AndyM's and simply fit but then what would I learn?

I'm going to stick to the Spectre holder. I know others have used it successfully and it does seem like a well made piece of kit (even if it is plastic). It holds the MAF very firmly - in fact, tighter than the stock box.

[The Other Stu]

Had a chat with MilesH about this today. As he pointed out, even the smallest gap of air between the MAF sensor and the filter will cause problems and I have a feeling that the way I'd done it was causing a quite a big gap.

I've ordered a slightly bigger diameter hose so that rather than butting up to the MAF holder, it's going to go over the top of it and I'll jubilee it to ensure that there is absolutely no gap at all.

He agreed that there's no reason this won't work if I can get it air tight. I'll remember to take pictures this time. It's currently very happy being back on stock, but it sounds very flat.

[Jono_GT]

Any updates on this Stu? I'm thinking of going down the same route. Silicone hose straight over Spectre housing with jubilee and Apexi Power Air Intake on t'other end. I've had Apexi con'es on my last 4 cars! Love them.

[The Other Stu]

Any updates on this Stu? I'm thinking of going down the same route. Silicone hose straight over Spectre housing with jubilee and Apexi Power Air Intake on t'other end. I've had Apexi con'es on my last 4 cars! Love them.

Yes, it turns out the K&N Cone I was given had got very wet at some stage. K&Ns are oil-based and don't like being immersed in water.

I've still got all the kit fittings and I'll order an apexi one or similar at some stage. I have a K&N box filter right now which definitely improves the performance over the cheap chinese paper one that was fitted.

[The Other Stu]

Any updates on this Stu? I'm thinking of going down the same route. Silicone hose straight over Spectre housing with jubilee and Apexi Power Air Intake on t'other end. I've had Apexi con'es on my last 4 cars! Love them.

Jono, I'm going to order an apexi, despite having a K&N Panel in (which definitely improved performance, but the noise still isn't quite right).

Standard Apexi Power Intake? Not a fake or anything like that (I don't get it - fake one is £30+, real one is only £40)

[Jono_GT]

Any updates on this Stu? I'm thinking of going down the same route. Silicone hose straight over Spectre housing with jubilee and Apexi Power Air Intake on t'other end. I've had Apexi con'es on my last 4 cars! Love them.

Jono, I'm going to order an apexi, despite having a K&N Panel in (which definitely improved performance, but the noise still isn't quite right).

Standard Apexi Power Intake? Not a fake or anything like that (I don't get it - fake one is £30+, real one is only £40)

Yup - so long as the £40 one is genuinely genuine  s:) s:)  Where did you source your other parts for this design mate?

[The Other Stu]

Any updates on this Stu? I'm thinking of going down the same route. Silicone hose straight over Spectre housing with jubilee and Apexi Power Air Intake on t'other end. I've had Apexi con'es on my last 4 cars! Love them.

Jono, I'm going to order an apexi, despite having a K&N Panel in (which definitely improved performance, but the noise still isn't quite right).

Standard Apexi Power Intake? Not a fake or anything like that (I don't get it - fake one is £30+, real one is only £40)

Yup - so long as the £40 one is genuinely genuine  s:) s:)  Where did you source your other parts for this design mate?

Various places. I have an ASH hose, spectre MAF housing, various jubilee clips.
The MAF holder is always the hardest bit to do. Picture as above.

[inside]

Here's my airbox using fake cda but with stock MAF adapter pipe (cut out).

The "fake CDA" is in fact brilliant. I sanded and snug fit the MAF adapter into it, so it acts as one piece. It is attached to TB using about 1.5" of cut stock rubber pipe. On the other side flexi pipe is attached to feed air directly from left-side duct. Airbox fits really well, but there's not much space surrounding the airbox. I've used included universal mount to fixate it so it doesn't touch neither firewall nor battery during engine movement.

No issues with MAF, idle or anything related. First I've run it without the feed pipe, and the sound is loud and rough. With feed pipe attached, it is substantially quieter and also more refined, more pleasant. Still quite loud in lift though   s:D s:D  

Pics:

[The Other Stu]

Many thanks. Great help  s:D s:D

I think that's the way I'm going to go.
What size duct did you get and where from?

[inside]

No worries. If by "duct" you mean flexi pipe, I've used the one that came with the filter and it fits directly on the filter feed hole.

So for the maf holder, I've cut out the one of the stock celica airbox and sanded it to fit into new "CDA" airbox. However the 2zz maf holder is few mm larger in diameter than one from 1zz. So with maf holder from mr2 airbox, you might have to use coupler to attach it to airbox.

[The Other Stu]

No worries. If by "duct" you mean flexi pipe, I've used the one that came with the filter and it fits directly on the filter feed hole.

So for the maf holder, I've cut out the one of the stock celica airbox and sanded it to fit into new "CDA" airbox. However the 2zz maf holder is few mm larger in diameter than one from 1zz. So with maf holder from mr2 airbox, you might have to use coupler to attach it to airbox.

As I said, I've got a maf holder - I bought the Spectre one.

I just realised it does have the flexi. I've got all the other bits and plenty of jubilees.

Off to order I think.