How do I fit my Markiii inlet pipe?

Started by markiii, January 10, 2005, 18:14

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markiii

Ladies and Gents,

Having just test fitted one of the new batch prior to packing and shipping, I figured you might benefit from some instructions.

This latest version is slightly different from the last batch.

benefits are a tighter seal to the existing airbox (you better beleive it)  and easier manufacturing.

With that said while still not rocket science the impact has been to make installation a little more effort. I had the V2 down to a 5 min install, V3 is looking at more like 10-15 mins.

My digi cam is broken at teh moment so no pics for a while, but heres teh low down.

Step 1

Remove the left hand side rear light cluster. 2 screws on teh top and it will lift out. Be careful with the securing lug that pushes into teh wing. you need to push teh ligth unit toward thethe other side of teh car for it to pop out.

Step 2

Pull out the old tapered pipe. Literally just grasp and twist it will pop out.

Step 3

Remove the plastic screw and grommet on teh left that holds the left hand part of the existing pipe (the bit that dissapears off into the wing). This will give you the extra give in teh pipe that you need.

Step 4


Your new pipe has a long section and a short section. The long bit goes into teh airbox, teh short bit into the pipe on the left.  While holding the pipe so that the open ends point upwards insert the long part under teh crossmember toward the airbox (don't worry about inserting it yet).

Step 5

Rotate the opipe so that the short part is pointing toward the pipe emerging from teh wing. Now push it in.  Now you can push teh long end into teh airbox. Be warned this will take a fair bit of effort and you may find it easier to unbolt teh coolant bottle from it's mount to give extra access. You need to push this end in until the lip on teh end of your inlet pipe is totally inside teh airbox.

Step 6


Reattach the screw and grommet that holds in the pipe on teh left. Everything shoudl now be a tight fit and nothig will move.

Step 7
Replace teh light cluster.

And there you go. Step 5 may be a bit of a pain but the result is a very tight seal[/b]
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

Anonymous

#1
That's excellent Mark - I'll look forward to using the instructions when I get my pipe now...

... starting to get excited now too!!!   s:roll: :roll: s:roll:    s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

kanujunkie

#2
fitted my mark 1 version the other day, piece of cake - 10mins flat, but do as Mark says watch out for the spigot that goes into the wing from the light unit, could be real easy to snap off
[size=100]Stu[/size]
[size=80]rip - C2 chargecooled roadster
now Subaru Impreza WRX STi with PPP
ex committee 2004-2009[/size]

roger

#3
Fitted mine today - tight fit (are you kidding, mark). For those who haven't done it yet, if you get the same problem I suggest you dremel off a bit of the seal, and maybe grease it up. Unfortunately the air box entry "hole" cracked. A pity, but not too serious.

The other end thought you could say is loose, probably not an airtight seal. Does any body think this might cause problems?

Every thing seems OK on a test drive. "Noise" slightly lower, good!

Finally, probably a bit obvious but stock pipe is attached to a bit of metal by a rubber screw/popper (similra to the one holding the LH air pipe, and that has to come out before twisting to get the pipe out. Mark missed that from his instructions - probably just on oversight.

Getting to the old one and getting it off was only about 5 mins, nearly an hour to get the new one on reasonably accurately!!
Roger

EX: \'04 Sable + PE Turbo and many other things
NOW: MR2 on steroids - \'12 Merc SLK200 AMG125

Use Spydersearch if you are stuck for information. Please.
Check my fuel consumption

kanujunkie

#4
Quote from: "roger"Getting to the old one and getting it off was only about 5 mins, nearly an hour to get the new one on reasonably accurately!!

yeah i had a nightmare getting it to look right as well, but with a bit of wiggling, it came good,
[size=100]Stu[/size]
[size=80]rip - C2 chargecooled roadster
now Subaru Impreza WRX STi with PPP
ex committee 2004-2009[/size]

Anonymous

#5
Fitted mk3 pipe at yesterdays pre-cat gut meeting but it had fallen out by the time I got home.  Trie dfitting again this morning but it is one hel  of a tight fit,  The box pipe has cracked quite a bit but I've budged it for now with the old gaffer tape.  Will have to see what happens, unless anyone has any ideas  s:roll: :roll: s:roll:

markiii

#6
bugger, you must have a fractionally wider pipe.

I would suggest dremel/filing the lip down a little if it persist or alternatively a very tight cable tie around the pipe it goes into on the left wing, as I did notice yours was a little looser at this end than the others I've done.
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

Anonymous

#7
All sorted, dremmeled down the lip a little and have fixed both ends with a jubilee clip.  Solid as a rock and just a few tape marks  s8) 8) s8)

Ernie Ball

#8
Question:

Does it make sense to put insulation around the inlet pipe?  If so, what kind?

kanujunkie

#9
you could do if you want but it would seem a bit pointless without insulating te rest of the system, i.e. the filter box and the pipework that runs around the top of the engine. If you still want to Steve then you can purchase heat wrap from Halfrauds or an motor factors store
[size=100]Stu[/size]
[size=80]rip - C2 chargecooled roadster
now Subaru Impreza WRX STi with PPP
ex committee 2004-2009[/size]

Slacey

#10
Watch with heat wrap though - it tends to contain any moisture, causing corrosion and can also work in reverse - if the pipe gets heatsoaked (sitting in a traffic jam for example) when you get moving again the wrap will prevent the heat from dissipating. I looked into wrapping all of my IC pipes and after a bit of research decided against the idea.
Ex 2002 Black / Red Leather Hass Turbo

markiii

#11
If you really want to do it ceramic coating would be teh best option.
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

Anonymous

#12
Hi,

I have just received my unpolished pipe from the latest batch. Many thanks Mark.

I know some people have painted theirs should I paint mine to stop it rusting or will it not rust either way?

Ta,

Fraz.

markiii

#13
it won't rust persee as its stainless.

it will discolour somewhat. personally I would paint it if unpolished, I would suggest using acid etch primer if you decide to go this route
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

kanujunkie

#14
acid etch is available from Halfrauds, comes in a metallic red spray can
[size=100]Stu[/size]
[size=80]rip - C2 chargecooled roadster
now Subaru Impreza WRX STi with PPP
ex committee 2004-2009[/size]

Anonymous

#15
Just fitted mine, all went ok, but the left hand side of the pipe is a very loose fit with noticable gap all around, is it meant too be like this?

Anonymous

#16
Quote from: "markiii"I would suggest using acid etch primer if you decide to go this route

I have a pot of Hammerite paint left over from doing the calipers. Am I right in thinking that I won't need to do the etch thing?

markiii

#17
very probably not, if you give it a good wash with hot water first
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

GSB

#18
I've got a pipe from the first GB, which must be over a year ago now. I degreased it and gave a lick of Hammerite smooth black paint when I got it, and even now, its still perfect.
[size=50]Ex 2001 MR2 Roadster in Silver
Ex 2004 Facelift MR2 Roadster in Sable Grey
Ex 2007 Mazda 6 MPS in Mica Black
Current 2013 Mazda MX5 2.0 \'Venture Edition\' Roadster Coupe in Brilliant Black[/size]

Anonymous

#19
Okay - go the old pipe off but can I hell as like get the new pipe into the airbox!!!!

Tried putting a bit of washing up liquid on it to grease it but it doesn't seem to be helping!


HELP!!!!

What distance of pipe needs to be in the airbox?

Anonymous

#20
I had the same trouble!! it went in eventually but my airbox has since cracked!!
best advice, which i think has been mentioned somewhere before is to gently dremel the lip to make it smaller.

Two's Company

#21
I had to dremel some of the lip to get the pipe to fit in the airbox!

It still popped out so had to put a jubilee clip around it.

roger

#22
Quote from: "Two's Company"I had to dremel some of the lip to get the pipe to fit in the airbox!

It still popped out so had to put a jubilee clip around it.

Exactly the same as mine, dremel + jubilee clip = no air leaks from the crack.   s:) :) s:)
Roger

EX: \'04 Sable + PE Turbo and many other things
NOW: MR2 on steroids - \'12 Merc SLK200 AMG125

Use Spydersearch if you are stuck for information. Please.
Check my fuel consumption

Anonymous

#23
Bugger - yep superglue and jub clips alround then - see whatr it sound like after the glues had some chamce to go off!

Anonymous

#24
just to add to tis topic!

ive fitted my markiii and had no problems with fittment to the airbox, abit a force required, but a nice tight fit and screwed down perfectly!!

but on the other side, the part that brings the air to the inlet pipe, not so great so ive unscrewed that part and positioned it for a better air flow then fixed it in place with halfords pipe and hose repair, so theres hardly no movement! and it does the job brilliantly!!

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