Sensible approach to spending money on 2001 with 123K

jvanzyl · August 5, 2016, 10:41

Hi Folks,
Would appreciate your thoughts here. I THINK that I want to put coilovers on my car to improve the ride - I'm currently opting for the MeisterR ones.
In addition, I want to complete the polybushing of the rear bushes as I suspect they are perished.

However I do appreciate that my car is old and has done a lot of miles - does anyone think this is a foolish avenue to take?
All in it's probably another £1K to do the above...

EDIT: Forgot to mention that this is my daily driver! I do about 7k a year.

Appreciate your input!

Cheers,

John

Jrichards20 · August 5, 2016, 10:59

I've just spend an fair whack on a 2000 with 160k miles. So as long as the chassis is fine, you can just keep changing the old bits and you'll end up with a new car. Well that was my logic anyway s:)

s:)

secla · August 5, 2016, 11:10

If you like the car and plan to keep it then spend as much as you like, just realise you won't see the money back

jvanzyl · August 5, 2016, 11:17

I DO like the car :-) :-) :-)

I'm under the understanding that the chassis fine - I guess it really does matter how deep your pockets are!

Topdownman · August 5, 2016, 11:26

I think that if you plan to keep the car for at least a few years you will be fine. You will not be suffering much depreciation on your 2 compared to a "normal" car so that will off set what you spend on the 2.

I think the suspension needs to be changed on any mileage if it is 15 years old and you want to get it handling as it should.

jvanzyl · August 5, 2016, 13:20

Thanks for the wisdom :-) :-) :-)

I certainly hope to keep it for a few more years! I think I'm "okish" with the cornering - but I suspect that I'm used to something that's not operating the way it should.
Additionally I'd love for it to handle the bumps and rubbishy roads better.

Mikeymead · August 5, 2016, 14:21

Having MeisterR's on mine now for a few months I wouldn't say they improve the ride, even on quite soft settings the ride is definitely harder than stock which I feel makes the car a bit more skittish in a bumpy corner, there is definitely less body roll and I think the point at which it lets go is probably higher but it gives you less warning. From what I gather it looks like Simon is going from MeisterR coilovers to KYB which is basically stock. At slow speed the ride on mine is quite annoying though it does handle speed bumps quite nicely. At high speed I do think the dampers have better control than stock and the ride then is quite good. Mine only had about 65000 miles on them when I changed.

PS If you want to try mine on MeisterR's then you can at Dong Day, I hope to get there for the after noon.

jvanzyl · August 5, 2016, 14:46

errr..... ok. I completely thought that the MeisterR's were the best of the bunch (bc/yellowspeed) when it came to improving the ride!... doh..

I think I will take you up on your offer at Dong day! I basically want to make my daily commute more comfortable and not lose the ability to enjoy the occasional roundabout! (track days are becoming a distant hope I think!).

Does anyone else have any views on what suspension setup makes for the best daily commute and occasional blast?

Jrichards20 · August 5, 2016, 14:50

MeisterRs CRD+ are not soft. If you bring them down too low, I felt they got really "boaty" if that makes any sense, wasn't a very good feeling. They need to be around the middle setting for a decent ride, but its going to be a lot harsher than stock.

secla · August 5, 2016, 15:05

If your looking for better comfort no coilover is going to do that very well

jvanzyl · August 5, 2016, 15:38

crud... sooooo basically what you're saying then is that I'll be trying to source replacement stock/kyb struts and then trying to figure out the right springs and then see if I need new top mounts or not debacle.. damn. I had hoped to avoid that by just biting the bullet and going straight for coilovers!

Anyone have any opinions on "sachs"? Eurocarparts is always emailing me with some kind of discount code and they are the ones that they sell..

MR TWO · August 5, 2016, 15:51

My braces and BC's improved the handling immeasurably, whilst making the actual ride harsher than I wanted. Backing off the coilovers settings only made the car bouncy and was worse.

Stiffening the suspension requires an equal amount of softening somewhere else to compensate - if you want a normal ride comfortwise.

Consider tyres with softer side walls, standard size wheels without low profile tyres.
How good us the padding in your fifteen year old seat?

I resolved my problems with Toyo's and fully sprung well padded Porsche seats.

jvanzyl · August 5, 2016, 16:00

hmmm.... ok I've got the Toyo's at least!

Dare I ask what you paid for the Porsche seats??

MR TWO · August 5, 2016, 16:16

Quote from: "jvanzyl"hmmm.... ok I've got the Toyo's at least!

Dare I ask what you paid for the Porsche seats??

I bought them on eBay with the door cards, rear seat/pads, speakers etc for £220. They are 911 Carrera Turbo with pinhole leather in black. Heated and electric which is an unescessary but nice bonus. I must get around to selling the other parts...

I don't think they were expensive, since they resolved the harsh ride and look great.

jvanzyl · August 5, 2016, 17:15

wow - totally hadn't considered changing the seat. I'm assuming that you buy the seat with the seat rail - but is there anything you have to do to get the porsche seat rail to work with the toyota floor? Do you need any kind of adapter?

MR TWO · August 5, 2016, 18:11

Quote from: "jvanzyl"wow - totally hadn't considered changing the seat. I'm assuming that you buy the seat with the seat rail - but is there anything you have to do to get the porsche seat rail to work with the toyota floor? Do you need any kind of adapter?

You need to have a bracket conversion. I bought some from an unmentionable guy we all know who lives in the Lake District. Basically you need a square frame made of steel, mine are made from approx 50mm x 7mm. This frame has to be large enough to fit over the bolt holes in the floor. The tricky part is to make the spur which attaches to the centre hump for the rear inside bolt. Make an identical frame from cardboard and work out the approx location of the floor holes. Mark them on the metal frame. Drill the first hole and bolt down the metal tight using the seat bolt. Then you drill the remaining three holes. one at a time, bolting the frame in place - its best to use a small drill and work up to be sure the holes are correct.

Finally you get the seat runners welded to the frame. Painted with hammerite makes them look finished/ factory . Then bolt in the car.

Its a bit of work, but it makes the handling mods really enjoyable, and you could always get someone to do this for you like I did!

cptspaulding · August 5, 2016, 18:21

For daily driving I would (and I already have done) stay stock. KYB shocks with stock springs. Get the geometry done after.
Each to their own but Toyota spent a lot of money developing this car to handle beautifully on a stock set up.

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk

Ardent · August 5, 2016, 19:22

What the Captain said.

If comfort is to be considered. going coilys AND polybushing as you imply, is not the route to comfort.
Ride is a very subject thing. What is acceptable to one is a bone shaker to someone else.

As the Captain. Kybs new springs and importantly a good quality Geo after.
And fresh rubber if not already done so.
I had all the bits nbobs, but not until I had the Geo done, did it come together as a complete package.
Now. s:mrgreen: :mrgreen: s:mrgreen: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:

lamcote · August 5, 2016, 21:12

Have you considered Koni adjustable damper inserts for the standard struts? You can then retain the standard springs. I guess this could be the ultimate option for good handling while retaining a softer ride.

John is200sport · August 5, 2016, 22:36

I think suspension and bushes would be fairly cost effective and sensible given age and mileage. A good set of matching tyres. To save money you could look at your own maintenance and servicing.

Good quality second hand bracing maybe an idea, keep the old ones and should you sell the car it's easy to swap back and sell on. Some sort of mid underbracing on your car seems to be recommended but getting hard/expensive to find.

Good luck with the project.

1979scotte · August 6, 2016, 10:42

You need to get a ride in a few cars.
Ask jason ARDENT for a go in his. Almost new stock suspension.
Take Mike up on his offer. New meister r.
Dont poly bush a daily driver imho.
Please remember that at your milage your stock suspension is shot and a move to KYB dampers and Tein springs will only improve matters.
I could be wrong but somone told me most manufacturers recommend replacement of dampers at 50k.

Ardent · August 6, 2016, 10:59

Just to repeat all of the above.

These are old cars.
A fresh stock set up will improve things no end.

jvanzyl · August 6, 2016, 11:19

Thanks guys!
I'm kinda committed to finishing the Poly's at the moment as the fronts were done last summer so I may as well finish it and THEN do the dampers and springs.
The Koni adjustable things sound good - any one know where to buy this stuff?
I shall make sure i bathe before dong day and sit in all your cars! s;-) ;-) s;-)

1979scotte · August 6, 2016, 12:24

m http://www.dcperformance.co.uk/cheap/25 ... -3991.html m

Koni with HR springs.
Loads on ebay too.

jvanzyl · August 8, 2016, 10:07

Awesome - ok so I'm feeling good about the Koni Sports - now all I need to do is source topmounts all round?

A lot of places seem to advertise the front top mounts (seem some good oem type ones on ebay from the US) - anyone know where you get the rears from? Are they called something other than a "rear top mount"?