'01 Silver - The daily commute smile machine! (Turbo build)

[shnazzle]

Capacity is 10.4 liters.
That's straight from the manual

[1979scotte]

Capacity is 10.4 liters.
That's straight from the manual

Fair enough pretty sure I bought two 5 litre bottles from MrT and had plenty left.

[tomaky]

You never fully empty the system on a rad swap, some still sits in the pipes and of course the engine.

[shnazzle]

You never fully empty the system on a rad swap, some still sits in the pipes and of course the engine.

That's it. I only used about 4L when I did my rad I thibk

[jvanzyl]

Updated list:

Must haves:
Oil + Filter: £63
(5L Fuchs + K&N Filter )
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/pv-156266-fuchs-titan-race-pro-s-5w-30-ester-fully-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx?vehicleid=10613&yearfilter=2001&providerpartid=156266&genericpartid=1862&providerpartlinkid=0&genericpartname=Car%20engine%20oil

Gearbox oil (2x MT90) £36
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/search/go?p=KK&srid=S4-1LON1P&lbc=opieoils&ts=custom&pw=red%20line%20synthetic%20manual%20transmission%2090%20mt90%2075w-90&uid=50682044&isort=score&view=grid&w=Mt90&rk=2

Coolant 2x5L (possibly less but it'll be a new engine going in)
New gasket between engine and exhaust manifold

Should haves:
New Clutch (current has done less than 20k though)
£90 ish??
New front radiator (think it's original)
I'm sure a bog standard oem one will do me fine...  no idea of costs

Nice to haves:
Lightened flywheel  £232 or £212
https://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/brands/competition-clutch/competition-clutch-toyota-celica-mr2-lotus-elise-exige-1zz-2zz-flywheels.html
http://www.ctc-performance.co.uk/store/competition-clutch-ultra-light-flywheel-4-53kgs-1zz-2zz/
Hamish or better manifold £120

Better Cams
Sports Cat
ECU Master Standalone and remap

what am I missing?

[smarty72]

You never fully empty the system on a rad swap, some still sits in the pipes and of course the engine.

That's it. I only used about 4L when I did my rad I thibk

I managed to get a good 9L in when I did mine - bought 11L because I went from the listed capacity, but in hindsight I was never going to get that much of the original stuff out.

[shnazzle]

You'll need break-in oil as well. Don't use the Fuchs to break in
Bit of a waste.

So cheap oil and 2x filters.

Air filter?
Are you going to be a good boy and clean out your IACV? if you ll need gaskets for TB to intake manifold and IACV to TB

Injector seals etc? Or leaving them in place?

Rtv for sump?

All other gaskets

I'm guessing you'll do timing chain tensioner, chain etc

[jvanzyl]

ah - gotcha. Thanks for that, OK I'll find some bog standard 5w30 and normal filter for break in.

So air filter - here's the thing. The TRD filter needs cleaning, and I've got a K&N Panel filter cleaning kit which I hope will do the job.
I've also got the AEM induction kit from ding, but that totally needs a new filter on it.

I "might" stick with the current setup to get things going and then go onto the induction when I can.

Thanks for he IACV suggestion - I'll look up how to do that..

I replaced all the injector seals a couple of years ago max, so I'll be transferring the old injectors into the new engine ( it doesn't come with injectors anyway).

Sump is already on, my plan is to but the front wheels on ramps, and the use the crane to lift the rear as high as I can so that I can slide the old engine out and the new engine in with the sump attached...

what other gaskets are there apart from the manifold to engine block one from the exhaust? Is there one on the intake side? Would it be re-usable?

New timing chain tensioner was put on as part of the rebuild...

I'm guessing a I'll know more of what I have to replace when I take the old one out and see the state of things like gaskets etc..

[jvanzyl]

Updated list:

Must haves:

• Cheap Oil + Filter for break in:£25
  https://www.opieoils.co.uk/pv-147934-fuchs-titan-xtr-5w-30-high-performance-fuel-economy-fully-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx?vehicleid=10613&yearfilter=2001&providerpartid=147934&genericpartid=1862&providerpartlinkid=0&genericpartname=Car%20engine%20oil
  
• Proper Oil + Filter post break in (how many miles??): £63
  (5L Fuchs + K&N Filter )
  https://www.opieoils.co.uk/pv-156266-fuchs-titan-race-pro-s-5w-30-ester-fully-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx?vehicleid=10613&yearfilter=2001&providerpartid=156266&genericpartid=1862&providerpartlinkid=0&genericpartname=Car%20engine%20oil
• New gasket between engine and exhaust manifold
• Coolant 2x5L (possibly less but it'll be a new engine going in)
• Gearbox oil (2x MT90) £36
  https://www.opieoils.co.uk/search/go?p=KK&srid=S4-1LON1P&lbc=opieoils&ts=custom&pw=red%20line%20synthetic%20manual%20transmission%2090%20mt90%2075w-90&uid=50682044&isort=score&view=grid&w=Mt90&rk=2
• Clean TRD Air Filter /li]
  

Should haves:

• Clean IACV
• gaskets for TB to intake manifold
• Gasket for IACV to TB
• New Clutch (current has done less than 20k though) £90 ish??
• New front radiator (think it's original) I'm sure a bog standard oem one will do me fine...  no idea of costs[

Nice to haves:

• Lightened flywheel  £232 or £212
  https://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/brands/competition-clutch/competition-clutch-toyota-celica-mr2-lotus-elise-exige-1zz-2zz-flywheels.html
  http://www.ctc-performance.co.uk/store/competition-clutch-ultra-light-flywheel-4-53kgs-1zz-2zz/
• Hamish or better manifold £120
• New AEM Induction filter  £45
  https://h-tune.co.uk/aem-dryflow-air-filter-cone-pod-various-sizes/?gclid=CjwKCAjw7cDaBRBtEiwAsxprXVF3lNjrX-4el7MTaoqBAzUMcI6eZudm47t4luDmpNBKn-Gkc-q4FRoCwSIQAvD_BwE#92=179&192=715
• Better Cams
• Sports Cat
• ECU Master Standalone and remap

what am I missing?[/list]

[shnazzle]

You're going to rebuild the engine with the sump on?

Air filter wise, for running in purposes, could you be convinced to put the stock system on? If you've got it.
Not sure it makes much difference but maybe it's better to just have it all as per Toyota design when you're running it in

[jvanzyl]

You're going to rebuild the engine with the sump on?

Air filter wise, for running in purposes, could you be convinced to put the stock system on? If you've got it.
Not sure it makes much difference but maybe it's better to just have it all as per Toyota design when you're running it in

errr... I'm getting the distinct impression that leaving the sump on is not going to be possible?

I could totally put the stock system on - it's just sitting on the shelf... All I'm running is the Markiii pipe and the TRD panel filter... sadly it probably doesn't make that much difference to stock!

[tomaky]

Bottom end disassembly required to hone etc. Sump has to come off to remove rods and pistons.

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[jvanzyl]

So today has been fun!
I've been doing a bit of de-rusting of the bits and pieces around the radiator @Topdownman you'll be pleased to see!


I've also finally got round to doing the wheel wells, basically just washing and using muc off for now. And then when it's dry I'll be able to see what bits I need to treat

[jvanzyl]

Bottom end disassembly required to hone etc. Sump has to come off to remove rods and pistons.

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Engine is already rebuilt - sitting in my shed :-)

Just need to swap them over now..

[Carolyn]

Tom and Pat:  What on earth are you talking about??  Sump on/off???

John has an engine that was gone through on the stand at my place.  honed, pistons modified, sump baffled.....head gone through....

John:

You should still have a gasket for the inlet manifold that came with the head gasket kit?  If not, they're cheap enough and it should be done.  There aren't any others.

All your ancillaries will bolt straight on, including the loom.

100 miles on cheap oil, change oil and filter.  No more than 500 on next oil (still cheap stuff, 'cos the really good stuff slows down the breaking in).

Then good oil and another filter.

you don't need to use 100% coolant.  Honest!! 50/50 with water is fine.

The bits you're running in won't be affected by the induction system.  but stock is best!!

[jvanzyl]

Thanks Carolyn! :-)

Ok right, thanks got the guidance.
I'll order two batches of cheap and one proper for the oil.

Good point about the gasket! I'll dig around in the box and see if I can find it..

I know this is a while away- but what is the current thinking on rev limit etc during break in?

Tom and Pat:  What on earth are you talking about??  Sump on/off???

John has an engine that was gone through on the stand at my place.  honed, pistons modified, sump baffled.....head gone through....

John:

You should still have a gasket for the inlet manifold that came with the head gasket kit?  If not, they're cheap enough and it should be done.  There aren't any others.

All your ancillaries will bolt straight on, including the loom.

100 miles on cheap oil, change oil and filter.  No more than 500 on next oil (still cheap stuff, 'cos the really good stuff slows down the breaking in).

Then good oil and another filter.

you don't need to use 100% coolant.  Honest!! 50/50 with water is fine.

The bits you're running in won't be affected by the induction system.  but stock is best!!

Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

[shnazzle]

I wasn't aware!
He was talking about a rebuild!

[1979scotte]

I wasn't aware!
He was talking about a rebuild!

He had me confused too.

[jvanzyl]

I dispute these scandalous accusations!!

:-)

You people got carried away when you saw the "nice to have list"!

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[tomaky]

Miss leading swine!

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[jvanzyl]

This evening's fun...

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[jvanzyl]

OK - so I've ordered:
2 lots of cheaper Fuchs Titan  5-30 plus two oil filters.
1.89L of MT90
4 X new spark plugs
1 x standard air filter

all from opie oils for £94 

The engine crane is built, the engine stand is built, now all I need is a clutch alignment tool @The Other Stu,  and some decent tow ropes to lift the car up.. oh yes and I need to make my engine dolley.. but that'll happen when I've put the spare engine up on the stand and I can measure up the gap for the sump so I can I achieve maximum lowness..

Busy finishing off running the lighting and power cables which should take me another couple of hours, it's likely that the de-rusting might get done "another year".. and then it'll be starting to try and figure out how to drop and an engine! 

[jvanzyl]

bah.. forgot to order coolant.. I'll get it locally.

Anyway - now onto the window shopping:

CC Flywheels come in at 4.45kg's (steel) and cost around £220-£230.
Fidanza's come in at 4.1 Kg's (aluminium) are at £350 from Fensport..

Then I happen to notice this one at Seriously Lotus:
https://www.seriouslylotus.com/ultra-light-steel-flywheel-toyota-1zz-std-type-clutch
It's @4.1Kgs but it's described as Steel.. AND it's at the same price as the CC's...

I also found a thread that said "2.5lbs of torque unlocked for every pound you remove at the flywheel.. "

It's on the internet it must be true... 

Anyway -in addition to the flywheel, do you have to replace the flywheel bots? :
https://www.seriouslylotus.com/arp-flywheel-bolt-set-toyota-1zz-2zz

[jvanzyl]

Opie oils order arrived today :-)
Just need coolant now...

Garage lightning up and running now- just need to neaten up the wiring..


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[jvanzyl]

Flywheel and ARP bolts now in :-)
Just waiting on tow strap now...

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