'01 Silver - The daily commute smile machine! (Turbo build)

[jvanzyl]

That 'cap' doesn't come off - or it shouldn't. It's all one piece with the rest of the rubber on that pin.

Anyway well done!!  Good progress.

Erm..... I literally popped it off because I had too much grease in inside... Hmmmm...I suppose I'll have to keep an eye on it.

Cheers [emoji16]

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[jvanzyl]

Amazing what you can achieve in a lunchtime when you know the right order!
For future reference - rear suspension arms always go on first, making sure to site the handbrake cable inside or outside the suspension arm (depending on side).
THEN pop the brake disc on, followed by the caliper carrier, then the caliper and pads...

Rear right and left are done now apart from the suspension strut bolts which I'm going to try and get to a reasonable level of camber before doing up tight. @BahnStormer I managed to put the camber bolts in the right way this time!
Following that will be the ARB and then start putting stuff back on really... debating about putting the zero on now... but I really want to try it out before I put it on so I can really appreciate the difference..

[jvanzyl]

Today's update!
So I've put the suspension strut bolt and camber bolts in  - and had a bash at trying to set the camber roughly towards 0 degrees give or take 30!
Normal suspension bolt was torqued to 170 Nm and the camber bolt I did to about 80Nm




I then put on the rear ARB and torqued those to 40Nm


I then put on the drop links and torqued those to 45Nm roughly..

And THEN I put on my new to me rear crash bar...


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[jvanzyl]

Interesting thing to note about the rear crash bar.. There seems to have been an update at some point, as my new one has some "wings" which dont have any suitable bolt holes on my chassis to match up to!



Other than that - if anyone wants a still usable rear crash bar that has a ding in the side of it - shout and it's yours, collection only!



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[tricky1138]

Interesting thing to note about the rear crash bar.. There seems to have been an update at some point, as my new one has some "wings" which dont have any suitable bolt holes on my chassis to match up to!

The update was done 2004 as part of the extra bracing. I noticed it on my 2004, compared to my 2003.

[jvanzyl]

The list of things still do is as follows:

- Fit the exhaust heatshield and then the rear thin black bars.. need to figure where they go and in which order still.. can't remember!
- Fit middle nappy thing
- Fit the rear bumper
- Fit the rear lights,
- Fit the rear number plate
- Fit the front alarm back on
- Fit the front bumper
- Put the winter wheels on
- Re-torque all the suspension as best I can when it's back on the ground
- Take it for an MOT
- Get the alignment done
- Run it for 150 miles
- Change the oil
- Run it for 500 miles
- Change the oil

ENJOY!!!!!

[jvanzyl]

Interesting thing to note about the rear crash bar.. There seems to have been an update at some point, as my new one has some "wings" which dont have any suitable bolt holes on my chassis to match up to!

The update was done 2004 as part of the extra bracing. I noticed it on my 2004, compared to my 2003.

Ah! Interesting - cheers for that!

[Carolyn]

Couple of things I noted...

You can't set any alignment with the wheels in the air (including camber), so that's for the alignment shop.

Drive the car a few miles, jack it back up, get the wheels off and do the re-torquing.  They always come a bit loose after the first run.

Don't 'run it in'.  Give it a bit of beans.

[jvanzyl]

Couple of things I noted...

You can't set any alignment with the wheels in the air (including camber), so that's for the alignment shop.

Drive the car a few miles, jack it back up, get the wheels off and do the re-torquing.  They always come a bit loose after the first run.

Don't 'run it in'.  Give it a bit of beans.

Gotcha - well I'll settle for trying to keep the wheels pointing in roughly the right direction then!

Good tip on the re-torquing - sounds easier than trying to get under with the wheels on the ground!

Hmmm..... I'm cautious about thrashing it - it's not just a rebuilt engine, it's also a new clutch and flywheel... ummmmm... I don't want break it! it's taken years to get to this point!

[Carolyn]

I don't mean a thorough thrashing, but do use the entire rev range and avoid sitting at idle for long periods, for the first couple of hundred.

It actually helps the rings and bores to settle in.

If it's too 'babied', you can end up with a little oil consumption.

You don't have to abuse the clutch!!!

You won't break it

[jvanzyl]

I don't mean a thorough thrashing, but do use the entire rev range and avoid sitting at idle for long periods, for the first couple of hundred.

It actually helps the rings and bores to settle in.

If it's too 'babied', you can end up with a little oil consumption.

You don't have to abuse the clutch!!!

You won't break it

OK that's cool - I'm good with using the country lanes rather than the motor way to help it along :-) Thank you Carolyn!

[Call the midlife!]

Couple of things I noted...

You can't set any alignment with the wheels in the air (including camber), so that's for the alignment shop.

Drive the car a few miles, jack it back up, get the wheels off and do the re-torquing.  They always come a bit loose after the first run.

Don't 'run it in'.  Give it a bit of beans.

Gotcha - well I'll settle for trying to keep the wheels pointing in roughly the right direction then!

Good tip on the re-torquing - sounds easier than trying to get under with the wheels on the ground!

Hmmm..... I'm cautious about thrashing it - it's not just a rebuilt engine, it's also a new clutch and flywheel... ummmmm... I don't want break it! it's taken years to get to this point!

I'm in a similar position as regards "running in" after the rebuild, everyone has different opinions, the advice from Crower in my case is 30 minutes of fast idle (1800-2000 revs) to break the cams in, by which time according to some points of view the rest of the engine should also be "broken in".
Then change and check the oil and pretty much drive it as normal with lots of variation in style of driving to avoid glazing the bores etc.
Same goes for the new clutch although it recommends not "slipping" it for a while until it's broken in but plenty of normal driving.
That'll be a challenge while getting used to the light flywheel but I'll just try and limit my stop/starting.
I was typing this between yours and Carolyn's last couple of exchanges if it looks contradictory.


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[jvanzyl]

Couple of things I noted...

You can't set any alignment with the wheels in the air (including camber), so that's for the alignment shop.

Drive the car a few miles, jack it back up, get the wheels off and do the re-torquing.  They always come a bit loose after the first run.

Don't 'run it in'.  Give it a bit of beans.

Gotcha - well I'll settle for trying to keep the wheels pointing in roughly the right direction then!

Good tip on the re-torquing - sounds easier than trying to get under with the wheels on the ground!

Hmmm..... I'm cautious about thrashing it - it's not just a rebuilt engine, it's also a new clutch and flywheel... ummmmm... I don't want break it! it's taken years to get to this point!

I'm in a similar position as regards "running in" after the rebuild, everyone has different opinions, the advice from Crower in my case is 30 minutes of fast idle (1800-2000 revs) to break the cams in, by which time according to some points of view the rest of the engine should also be "broken in".
Then change and check the oil and pretty much drive it as normal with lots of variation in style of driving to avoid glazing the bores etc.
Same goes for the new clutch although it recommends not "slipping" it for a while until it's broken in but plenty of normal driving.
That'll be a challenge while getting used to the light flywheel but I'll just try and limit my stop/starting.


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That's a good point regarding the lightened flywheel - it'll be my first time with one as well... I went with Competition Clutch, what did you get?

[Call the midlife!]

Couple of things I noted...

You can't set any alignment with the wheels in the air (including camber), so that's for the alignment shop.

Drive the car a few miles, jack it back up, get the wheels off and do the re-torquing.  They always come a bit loose after the first run.

Don't 'run it in'.  Give it a bit of beans.

Gotcha - well I'll settle for trying to keep the wheels pointing in roughly the right direction then!

Good tip on the re-torquing - sounds easier than trying to get under with the wheels on the ground!

Hmmm..... I'm cautious about thrashing it - it's not just a rebuilt engine, it's also a new clutch and flywheel... ummmmm... I don't want break it! it's taken years to get to this point!

I'm in a similar position as regards "running in" after the rebuild, everyone has different opinions, the advice from Crower in my case is 30 minutes of fast idle (1800-2000 revs) to break the cams in, by which time according to some points of view the rest of the engine should also be "broken in".
Then change and check the oil and pretty much drive it as normal with lots of variation in style of driving to avoid glazing the bores etc.
Same goes for the new clutch although it recommends not "slipping" it for a while until it's broken in but plenty of normal driving.
That'll be a challenge while getting used to the light flywheel but I'll just try and limit my stop/starting.


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That's a good point regarding the lightened flywheel - it'll be my first time with one as well... I went with Competition Clutch, what did you get?

The same, ACT performance one [emoji1303]


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[shnazzle]

Is it true that you should do a fair bit of engine braking to bet in the rings? So, as you say, use the rev range a fair bit (maybe not 7k) but then also a good few accelerations and then let off the throttle in gear?

[jvanzyl]

Well! Quite the evening!
Exhaust heatshield on.
Funny little black bar stays on.
Rear strut brace on.
Boot lid on! Many thanks to the wife for giving of her time to assist with this.... Not so much for the lecture on recycling all my little baggies straight afterwards! [emoji39]
Rear mid nappy on (quite a few zip ties)
Rear bumper on
Rear lights on
Number plate kind of on... Missing one number plate screw!
Rear wheels on (must tighten when I drop the car down).

Ummmm... Yeah.. Need to have a look at my list to see what's next...
So it'll be front bumper and any thing else I did to the frunk area... Etc

So it's:
lowering the rear next
Tightening the wheels up
Putting the battery back in
Getting it back off the front ramps (I hate driving on and off ramps)
Fit the front winter wheels
Frunk stuff in ( alarm, storage and spare wheel)
Front bumper back on
Insurance
MOT
Alignment

And at some point give it a clean!

Ab





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[Call the midlife!]

You're a machine![emoji1303]


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[jvanzyl]

You're a machine![emoji1303]


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LOL - well I'm not going anywhere if I can't find a stupid screw to keep the number plate on...

Besides which I think last night was an anomaly... I don't let myself work on it in the evening as the temptation to keep going and going is too strong and I end up getting into bed waaaaaaay too late..

I've been trying to limit myself to Wednesday lunchtimes when I work from home - it's just that yesterday I got so much done so quickly I couldn't help myself!

I'm contemplating if I could finish it off tonight.... but I really shouldn't... I should be doing painting... but I don't want to.. I want to play with the car! (:< >

[Chilli Girl]

One massive brilliant effort John, I've really enjoyed reading it all and pics and even better I'm understanding '2' terminology much better than I did before.  Cheers!   

[jvanzyl]

One massive brilliant effort John, I've really enjoyed reading it all and pics and even better I'm understanding '2' terminology much better than I did before.  Cheers!   

Good stuff! You mean terms like "Thingy" and "thin bit" "bow tie" ?

[Call the midlife!]

You're a machine![emoji1303]


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LOL - well I'm not going anywhere if I can't find a stupid screw to keep the number plate on...

Besides which I think last night was an anomaly... I don't let myself work on it in the evening as the temptation to keep going and going is too strong and I end up getting into bed waaaaaaay too late..

I've been trying to limit myself to Wednesday lunchtimes when I work from home - it's just that yesterday I got so much done so quickly I couldn't help myself!

I'm contemplating if I could finish it off tonight.... but I really shouldn't... I should be doing painting... but I don't want to.. I want to play with the car! (:< >

My rear plate is held on with a couple of  m6 button headed stainless screws straight into the plastic behind it.
Ever so gently tapped in and never over tightened.


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[jvanzyl]

You're a machine![emoji1303]


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LOL - well I'm not going anywhere if I can't find a stupid screw to keep the number plate on...

Besides which I think last night was an anomaly... I don't let myself work on it in the evening as the temptation to keep going and going is too strong and I end up getting into bed waaaaaaay too late..

I've been trying to limit myself to Wednesday lunchtimes when I work from home - it's just that yesterday I got so much done so quickly I couldn't help myself!

I'm contemplating if I could finish it off tonight.... but I really shouldn't... I should be doing painting... but I don't want to.. I want to play with the car! (:< >

My rear plate is held on with a couple of  m6 button headed stainless screws straight into the plastic behind it.
Ever so gently tapped in and never over tightened.


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ah ok! I'll bear that in mind.. I'll have a rummage around the shed to see if I can find anything suitable..

[Topdownman]

Very rapid progress there John, too quick for me to even make some comment about your needing to fit  winter wheels!

We probably do need a poll on how long your shiny painted thingys are going to stay looking nice though.

(PS Painting is over-rated, play with the car).

[jvanzyl]

Very rapid progress there John, too quick for me to even make some comment about your needing to fit  winter wheels!

We probably do need a poll on how long your shiny painted thingys are going to stay looking nice though.

(PS Painting is over-rated, play with the car).

Thanks Simon!
Yeah I'm going with winters till end of march I reckon.... It'll probably snow in April!
I'll try get to the car tonight... Will have to see..

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[jonbill]

Halfords sell some cheap double sided tape for number plates that actually works, if you want to avoid the holes.