'01 Silver - The daily commute smile machine! (Turbo build)

[jvanzyl]

Ummmm guys.... ? Don't suppose we could orient the conversation onto more topical stuff? E.g. how cheaply do you think you can put a Rotrex kit together?

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[1979scotte]

Ummmm guys.... ? Don't suppose we could orient the conversation onto more topical stuff? E.g. how cheaply do you think you can put a Rotrex kit together?

Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

Rotrex and cheap aren't good bedfellows.
Less complicated to install than a turbo mind.

[jvanzyl]

Ummmm guys.... ? Don't suppose we could orient the conversation onto more topical stuff? E.g. how cheaply do you think you can put a Rotrex kit together?

Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

Rotrex and cheap aren't good bedfellows.
Less complicated to install than a turbo mind.

Fair enough- I appreciate the price is higher, but I'll keep saving till I get there.
The objective is higher power and reliability.
Se7en are now saying that it's £4100 for the kit MINUS the ECU.
I've been trawling for info and I think I can put together a kit myself (copying the power enterprise design) for significantly less and then get through emu black for the ECU.
I'm leaning towards a MAG 1ZZ and am hopeful to see what a Rotrex, with the zero exhaust and lightened flywheel properly mapped could produce in terms of genuine driving pleasure with little concern over boost spikes, and other turbo related long-term issues...

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[shnazzle]

What are concerns that a turbo brings that the rotrex doesn't?
Same amount of parts. Same amount of boost potentially. Same stress on components depending on setup.

As, ChrisGB told me, a turbo/supercharger lives/dies by its map.

You know the triangle; cheap, reliable, powerful. Choose two

[jvanzyl]

What are concerns that a turbo brings that the rotrex doesn't?
Same amount of parts. Same amount of boost potentially. Same stress on components depending on setup.

As, ChrisGB told me, a turbo/supercharger lives/dies by its map.

You know the triangle; cheap, reliable, powerful. Choose two

Well. I was going on the theory of Rotrex providing a more linear power increase and this theoretically meaning that there was less stress than a turbo setup....

Plus I'd get to keep my manifold.....
Oh and I'm basically saying that I'm not choosing cheap out of the triangle...

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[BahnStormer]

John after our late night (and slightly tipsy) video call on Monday I'm eventually catching up - fromt he video call that timing gear looked pretty shot - seized piston or something like that L(

RE: getting the car up to Carolyn, etc I'm pretty sure you'll be fine with your S4 towing the MR2 - I'd say more stable than a 4x4 given how planted the S4 is! If you have any concerns, my A6 has a tow-bar and I passed my test in 1995, so somehow that means I'm allowed to tow a combined weight of >8000kgs (not that the car would do it)... and you can pay for the unleaded in my car this time as I think s'charged V6  is probably about as thirsty as your V8

[jvanzyl]

John after our late night (and slightly tipsy) video call on Monday I'm eventually catching up - fromt he video call that timing gear looked pretty shot - seized piston or something like that L(

RE: getting the car up to Carolyn, etc I'm pretty sure you'll be fine with your S4 towing the MR2 - I'd say more stable than a 4x4 given how planted the S4 is! If you have any concerns, my A6 has a tow-bar and I passed my test in 1995, so somehow that means I'm allowed to tow a combined weight of >8000kgs (not that the car would do it)... and you can pay for the unleaded in my car this time as I think s'charged V6  is probably about as thirsty as your V8

Hey Chris,
Thanks so much man :-)
Plans are in their infancy, but the plan would be to trailer it up mid week and then work on it over a weekend, then either get a lift up there to drive it back down (via an MOT center) or then hire the trailer again to bring it back down and assault the MOT center round mine ..

You're more than welcome to accompany me on these travels!

Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

[Ardent]

Well. I was going on the theory of Rotrex providing a more linear power increase and this theoretically meaning that there was less stress than a turbo setup....

Mr T R+D people missed a trick there having gone the turbo route with the TTE. Wonder how that happened?

[jvanzyl]

Well. I was going on the theory of Rotrex providing a more linear power increase and this theoretically meaning that there was less stress than a turbo setup....

Mr T R+D people missed a trick there having gone the turbo route with the TTE. Wonder how that happened?

Cheaper to implement a turbo and I'm guessing the whole Rotrex thing wasn't so well known back when they were designing the tte setup?

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[1979scotte]

Ummmm guys.... ? Don't suppose we could orient the conversation onto more topical stuff? E.g. how cheaply do you think you can put a Rotrex kit together?

Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

Rotrex and cheap aren't good bedfellows.
Less complicated to install than a turbo mind.

Fair enough- I appreciate the price is higher, but I'll keep saving till I get there.
The objective is higher power and reliability.
Se7en are now saying that it's £4100 for the kit MINUS the ECU.
I've been trawling for info and I think I can put together a kit myself (copying the power enterprise design) for significantly less and then get through emu black for the ECU.
I'm leaning towards a MAG 1ZZ and am hopeful to see what a Rotrex, with the zero exhaust and lightened flywheel properly mapped could produce in terms of genuine driving pleasure with little concern over boost spikes, and other turbo related long-term issues...

Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

Let's see what mine drives like.
Hopefully be able to give you some pointers.
A C30-94 like mine will produce enough boost to blow a 1zz to pieces with the wrong pulley or dodgy boost control.
It flows enough air to make 400bhp though which is nice.

[jvanzyl]

Ummmm guys.... ? Don't suppose we could orient the conversation onto more topical stuff? E.g. how cheaply do you think you can put a Rotrex kit together?

Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

Rotrex and cheap aren't good bedfellows.
Less complicated to install than a turbo mind.

Fair enough- I appreciate the price is higher, but I'll keep saving till I get there.
The objective is higher power and reliability.
Se7en are now saying that it's £4100 for the kit MINUS the ECU.
I've been trawling for info and I think I can put together a kit myself (copying the power enterprise design) for significantly less and then get through emu black for the ECU.
I'm leaning towards a MAG 1ZZ and am hopeful to see what a Rotrex, with the zero exhaust and lightened flywheel properly mapped could produce in terms of genuine driving pleasure with little concern over boost spikes, and other turbo related long-term issues...

Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

Let's see what mine drives like.
Hopefully be able to give you some pointers.
A C30-94 like mine will produce enough boost to blow a 1zz to pieces with the wrong pulley or dodgy boost control.
It flows enough air to make 400bhp though which is nice.

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Considering the fact that I have finally put this all together in what I think is an affordable package, I wanted to take some time to talk about the various options available to the Spyder.

That said, I feel uniquely qualified to comment on this subject. I have had pretty much every custom configuration and "kit" that you can have on a Spyder. I've changed my configuration at a bare minimum of once every 6 months (and sometimes twice in 6 months) for the last 5 years! So here are some thoughts, opinions, and observations.

How do the various FI options stack up?

To answer that, I'll try to summarize my experiences with each and explain the good and bad. Please understand that I truly do believe in the old adage of "To Each His Own". Hell, my own opinion has changed over time and I personally have gone back and forth several times, especially after switching from one setup to another and back again. That said, there is no one stop solution that fits everyone. Each of the options we have available fit a particular niche and/or driving style. So please read on and decide for yourself.

Turbo – The turbo offers the biggest low end kick in the pants you can get. However, you have four primary cons; heat, lag, torque, and longevity/maintenance.

Heat – well turbos are hot, period. I just pulled off an MWR kit that routinely ran IAT's that were 30 - 40 degrees above ambient with simple highway driving! Now I could make good power (300+ RWHP) on a 2zz but for how long until the heat started pulling spark and toning it down and in what weather (that is the question)? Especially down here in the hot summers of Houston!

Now don't get me wrong here, if I were going to keep a turbo in kit form, it would be the MWR kit. As far as turbos go, this is the best setup I have had including several custom kits. Matt did a great job with this one, but it is simply not for me.

Now let me qualify that statement. First off, I bought it as a set it and forget it type of setup. The thing to understand here is that I am a complete "performance perfectionist". I monitor and log everything and just sort of expect everything to be perfect at all times. The MWR kit was great, but the perfectionist in me wasn't happy with the IAT's of an AIR/AIR intercooler. So it wasn't but a few days into it that I started making plans to pull the air/air and install my air/water based design. Then I was going to change this, then that, and by the time I was done the price has escalated to a point where I did not want to go. So I decided to sell it and go in another direction not to mention the resurgence of the Rotrex kit as well as plans I had for another spyder.

Now back to the MWR kit. If you are looking at a turbo, I would advise you to stay away from the Hass or turbokits.com unit. Compared to the MWR kit it is a joke with a ridiculous intercooler and scoop setup. The IC is about half the size of the MWR and it doesn't cut it in my climate nor does the rest of the kit in general. The MWR kit is superior in every way you can imagine.

Lag - The GT28R is a great little turbo with quick power, the GT28RS better suited for higher numbers but more lag, and the GT2871r I wouldn't touch with a 10' pole. Had it, didn't like it. In fact, I've had each of these turbos plus two different models on my old Top Secret setup.

Oh no he didn't, he said lag, "lag doesn't exist it is really boost threshold" you are talking about! Whatever. Lag is lag is lag. Let me explain. Say you are in the car on the road cruising at 50 mph in 5th gear. Punch the throttle with any of these turbos and there is a delay. Compared to a supercharger it feels like a squishy pedal or a faulty drive by wire. Things just don't happen instantly. You press the pedal to the floor, you start hearing this whoosh as the turbo spools and power builds, then it all goes crazy. The smaller the turbo the less the delay, but it is still there. That is unless you have been running it hard, let off the gas, and punch it again. Otherwise, THERE IS A DELAY I don't care what you call it.

Some people say there is no lag above a certain rpm. Whatever. If you are racing and in the power band WITH the turbo spooled, OK. Been there, done that. However, for every day use on the street whenever you press the gas this is not the case. After driving a supercharger for so long it is just weird to "wait" even if what comes is initially stronger than a SC and sets you back in your seat a little deeper.

Torque/Drivability – something to seriously consider before you make the plunge. Yes, a turbo can make VERY impressive low end torque numbers, especially on a dyno when it is strapped down.

However, consider these questions. How much of that can you actually put to the ground? What are you going to have to do to your car to keep the wheels from spinning hilariously? Do you have an LSD and have you factored that and a monster clutch into the equation that might change the way the car feels? Do you want a drag car or a well balanced track car? It is your choice, I just put that out there as many people don't know exactly what they are asking for when they say they want low end. They look at a dyno and say that a turbo has more under the curve, "I want a flat torque curve, the flatter the better".. So on and so on.. However, most people don't have a proper frame of reference and don't know exactly what this means in real life especially at different power levels. It is simple really, go above 225 - 250 ft/lbs in the lower rpm range and it is wheel spin city. First gear can quickly become useless especially with a bad torque/tire combo. Throw in an inexperienced driver and it can be down right dangerous.

"Dangerous he said, but I'm a great driver!" Well, take it from someone that knows a wild-ass ride can also quickly become limiting. Too wild and it can become unpredictable, scary, and yes; dangerous. Not to mention the fact that once you start globbing on all that rubber to stop the wheel spin you start changing the handling characteristics of the car. It can leave the average person chasing their tale in a wild fury of mods without a plan that ends in disgust and a quick "For Sale" post in the Private Sales Forum.

I guess I should also mention top end torque. The typical setup that I have had involves the GT28 series of turbos. These seem to fall off at the top of the rpm range without fail. The powerband then becomes weird. Driving a turbo can feel a bit like this; press the gas, wait, getting it, getting it, going faster, BAM, hold on for dear life, falling off, falling off, the excitement dies down and it is time to shift.

Now you can get around this in a lot of ways. WI, air/water intercooler, electronic boost controller, etc. None of which are considered in the price of a traditional "kit" and all come at a substantial cost. Not to mention the fact that you have to re-tune to compensate with most of these options.

As with anything, to get the most out of this type of setup there is a lot more that is not included in any kit of which I am aware. I guess the dream machine in the turbo world for me would involve the following; air/water intercooler, external wastegate, AVC-r, fully programmable Aquamist WI system, Moroso Oil pan, Oil cooler, a monster clutch, engine bay fans, 245's (or better) on the rear, fender work and/or a wide body, etc. = money

Longevity/Maintenance – this is where you have to be careful with a turbo or at least well prepared. A turbo is typically the hardest to live with by a wide margin. You need either experience or a well tuned and professionally installed setup for longevity and less maintenance. A very large number of spyderchatters have gone turbo, only to end up pulling it off and selling their cars because they get tired of dealing with all of the issues 

Basically, there are several major areas of concern. First, you are strapping on a device that can easily make enough boost to pop your motor if things don't go right. You also have something on your car that can easily pop your motor if you give that manual boost controller you bought and installed just one turn too many, like SO many people end up doing at some point in time.

Second, it all goes back to the heat issue. Turbos are HOT. They look hot, they run hot, they feel hot, and they even smell hot. Hell, I'd bet you could fry an egg in the rear of most turbo spyders after a drive to work and back without ever hitting boost! There are however ways to minimize this but it is usually not a part of any kit and no matter what, is an ongoing challenge. You also have to wonder about the impact of so much heat being introduced to an aluminum cylinder head that was not designed for this type of abuse.

However, I don't want to over play the latter, and relatively speaking this is probably a more long-term type of concern than anything else. That said, most turbo owners that aren't capable of dealing with the short term headaches never make it far enough to worry about negative long-term effects 

Lastly, complexity due to all of the above. It is very easy to get worn down by burnt oil, smoke, boost creep, smoke on startup, melted hoses and wires, running poorly due to all of the above. The list really goes on and on. Unless you buy a well thought out kit like the MWR AND LEAVE IT ALONE, and/or have it professionally installed, it can be a bit tedious.

TRD SC (MP45) – A milder upgrade that gives +2zz performance. Faster acceleration, low rev, low torque fun. Makes it great for lazy shifting and pulling from 2k in any gear  Not a power house, but it turns the Spyder into a little monster that remains very controllable.

However, it is prone to heat soak as it does not allow for an intercooler. Your RWHP will vary wildly with atmospheric temperatures. The best solution is a custom WI system that also compensates for IAT's but this can get tricky at best.

Heat – none to worry about as far as engine bay temps. However, these blowers are very inefficient and IAT's can quickly become an issue without WI.

Lag – absolutely none. These things pull from pretty much any rpm that you can be at while in gear 

Torque/Drivability – one of the best. This little thing feels like a bump in liters. Besides the noise, it is hard to know it is even there. It simply feels like you put a bigger motor in your car.

Longevity/Maintenance – Probably the best on the list. It is pretty much a set it and forget it type system.


TRD SC (M62) – A custom built improvement on the TRD SC but there is only one that I know of  It was a really nice ride that helped fill a gap between the TRD and a turbo but it still came up short.

Heat – none to worry about as far as engine bay temps. However, these blowers are very inefficient and IAT's can quickly become an issue without WI.

Lag – absolutely none. These things pull from pretty much any rpm that you can be at while in gear

Torque/Drivability – one of the best. This little thing feels like a bump in liters. Besides the noise, it is hard to know it is even there. It simply feels like you put a bigger motor in your car.

Longevity/Maintenance – Second best on the list. It is pretty much a set it and forget it type system. It does require some custom tuning and calibration of the WI system, but once done it is care free for 50 – 60k miles at a time.

The big problem here is what people try to do with them  Number one, the more you up the boost, the higher the parasitic lag, the more heat, the more it gets inefficient. These things are designed to operate in the 8 - 9 psi range for peak efficiency, even then the older models are heat magnets.

The first thing people try to do is install a smaller pulley, makes more torque, but usually not anymore top end. Performance then starts to suffer exponentially as boost goes up and heat soak occurs. That is unless you are in really good air. I made some kick butt numbers before in freezing temps, but guess what, that all changed on warm days

The next thing people try to do that makes absolutely no sense, is they try and install an ever larger unit. But guess what, the larger the SC, the more air, thus the higher the boost and it starts all over again. This is one of the reasons the carver charger failed, it was ill conceived from day one, I told him so, it just took him a lot longer and many dollars later to figure it out for himself.....

Rotrex – oh, the Rotrex. Well, this has actually turned out to be my overall honest favorite when looking at a "Track Car" or for the person that is interested in maintaining honest to goodness drivability.

Heat – this is where the Rotrex shines. My setup like the Stage II or III utilizes an Air/Water intercooler. These typically run IAT's of 17f above ambient. Boosted runs typically move up 4 degrees or so depending on various circumstances then quickly drop back down at the end of a run. The Rotrex itself adds no heat to the engine bay what-so-ever.

Lag – the rotrex has no lag in any way shape or form. In fact, it flows more air than the car needs at idle  Therefore, ANYTIME you press the gas it runs stronger than NA period.

Torque/Drivability – this is one of selling points of this setup in my mind. The torque curve of this system is a bit unconventional in that it climbs steadily and peaks at redline.

Looking at a dyno of a ROtrex car, you can see that it makes nice controllable power that you can use on a track or the street at any rpm in any gear. It FEELS, just like you have a larger motor in that car at every rpm. More than that, since the torque climbs with rpms so does acceleration.

It is really odd in comparison to other power adders. You see, with a turbo, it gives you a bigger kick down low and then starts to fall off. It is wild, but with a "let down" at the end. The Rotrex on the other hand accelerates faster and faster as you go. It is like being in a rocket with an endless increase on the throttle until you have to change gears. It simply gets faster and faster and faster.

Torque production aside, the Rotrex and the GT28rs end up in pretty much the same neighborhood in regards to top end HP. However there is a big difference, I have made 325 RWP on a 2zz'd Rotrex that I would let my mother drive to the store and back without hesitation!

Really? Please explain this! Well, it is simple really, power is there when you need it or want it. Basically, a Rotrex drives around town like it has a bigger motor and pulls stronger at any rpm. However, it doesn't go wild and put you in a spin with 2% more throttle input than you thought you should have applied  Need more power, downshift to raise rpms. It is really that simple.

Couple a built 1zz or a stock 2zz and a rotrex and my goodness. You end up with a 325 RWHP car that Grandma can drive. I'm dead serious. You can drive it to work and still let your wife drive it to get groceries! Well, maybe flowers, chocolate, and/or to rape your wallet at the mall. Our cars don't hold many groceries

Longevity/Maintenance – as far as longevity is concerned, this one ranks up there in the neighborhood with the TRD or Eaton style SC. The rotrex itself is a little more hardy and the fluid is a lot easier to change. If it wasn't for the plumbing involved, I would rate it higher than an eaton but to be fair it loses a point with every hose clamp and silicone hose

However, one of the beauties of the Rotrex is that it can grow with you and your wallet. You can start out by putting a basic kit on a stock 1zz. If you ever decide to build your motor or go 2zz, the Rotrex goes right along. The same design was built to work on a stock 1zz, built 1zz, stock 2zz, or even a built 2zz!

[jvanzyl]

Snr mgmt have agreed to discuss options tonight... 

Part of me wants to be told that I have £100 and she reckons I should go 2ZZ just for the heck of it - a nice challenge!

But I'm hoping for 1ZZ from MAG, and then one day go down the rotrex route as per Web3.0 design.

[Nvy]

Snr mgmt have agreed to discuss options tonight... 

Part of me wants to be told that I have £100 and she reckons I should go 2ZZ just for the heck of it - a nice challenge!

But I'm hoping for 1ZZ from MAG, and then one day go down the rotrex route as per Web3.0 design.

A 2zz + rotrex makes it for a rly nice package. If I were you with wrecked engine and so on, id go 2zz + a mild rebuild kit i.e. replace the main parts that wear first and do a checkup of everything and later down the road add a rotrex. A mild built 2zz wouldnt take lots of parts but mild built 1zz would:

1zz: Pistons, rods, bearings.
2zz: Pistons, bearings. Pistons depending on the brand can require a sleeve or not.

At the end of the day good 2zz > 1zz for me at least because its the same price but 2zz is miles better in terms of breading capabilities.

[jvanzyl]

Snr mgmt have agreed to discuss options tonight... 

Part of me wants to be told that I have £100 and she reckons I should go 2ZZ just for the heck of it - a nice challenge!

But I'm hoping for 1ZZ from MAG, and then one day go down the rotrex route as per Web3.0 design.

A 2zz + rotrex makes it for a rly nice package. If I were you with wrecked engine and so on, id go 2zz + a mild rebuild kit i.e. replace the main parts that wear first and do a checkup of everything and later down the road add a rotrex. A mild built 2zz wouldnt take lots of parts but mild built 1zz would:

1zz: Pistons, rods, bearings.
2zz: Pistons, bearings. Pistons depending on the brand can require a sleeve or not.

At the end of the day good 2zz > 1zz for me at least because its the same price but 2zz is miles better in terms of breading capabilities.

Don't get me wrong, I like the idea of a 2ZZ or more - I like the idea of more power. I couldn't really care if it was a 2ZZ or a 1ZZ.
In terms of costs, both engines new from MAG are comparable - however the 2ZZ will require a significant amount of additionally components in order to do the swap and the pushes the cost up even further.

In the event I found an old 2ZZ for cheap off of copart, I could then work at removing it and selling off the parts to cover costs more - but then it would still be an unknown entity..

Anyway... I'll chat about it tonight, but I'm still keen on going with 1ZZ plus FI later on.. I think i'd be good with 200 whp and then some serious lightening..

[Nvy]

Snr mgmt have agreed to discuss options tonight... 

Part of me wants to be told that I have £100 and she reckons I should go 2ZZ just for the heck of it - a nice challenge!

But I'm hoping for 1ZZ from MAG, and then one day go down the rotrex route as per Web3.0 design.

A 2zz + rotrex makes it for a rly nice package. If I were you with wrecked engine and so on, id go 2zz + a mild rebuild kit i.e. replace the main parts that wear first and do a checkup of everything and later down the road add a rotrex. A mild built 2zz wouldnt take lots of parts but mild built 1zz would:

1zz: Pistons, rods, bearings.
2zz: Pistons, bearings. Pistons depending on the brand can require a sleeve or not.

At the end of the day good 2zz > 1zz for me at least because its the same price but 2zz is miles better in terms of breading capabilities.

Don't get me wrong, I like the idea of a 2ZZ or more - I like the idea of more power. I couldn't really care if it was a 2ZZ or a 1ZZ.
In terms of costs, both engines new from MAG are comparable - however the 2ZZ will require a significant amount of additionally components in order to do the swap and the pushes the cost up even further.

In the event I found an old 2ZZ for cheap off of copart, I could then work at removing it and selling off the parts to cover costs more - but then it would still be an unknown entity..

Anyway... I'll chat about it tonight, but I'm still keen on going with 1ZZ plus FI later on.. I think i'd be good with 200 whp and then some serious lightening..

For sure, 1zz is fine and even better if you build it. I will be building mine and will go either big ass turbo 7163 or c30-94 down the line and for now a small turbo will do just fine for 200 whp.

[1979scotte]

Although I agree with web on the most part I believe these opinions were written some time ago.
Turbo and electronic tech is constantly evolving.

Also he doesn't mention a thing about V6 which we all know are be far the best thing ever ;p

[tomaky]

Correction Flat*

Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk

[tomaky]

Anyway, how have the negotiations gone.

[1979scotte]

Anyway, how have the negotiations gone.

Yes what is happening @jvanzyl

[jvanzyl]

Anyway, how have the negotiations gone.

Yeah. didn't start....I shall bide my time... Watching.... Waiting....

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[jvanzyl]

Well today has been quite amazing!
It started with my phone going a bit nuts last night when I was at a wedding and not being able to look at it.... When I did sneak a quick look it was very clear that there were a couple of amazing  deals going. 
Fast forward to today and with the kindness and help of Carolyn, and Shinys gracious stepping aside for someone who doesn't know the rules (me) and I have now got a new (to me) engine and PPE manifold PLUS sports cat!

Which is frankly amazing as the sports cat deal fell through recently, and I'd likely sell my unfitted zero manifold to fund these changes... So yeah... Hallelujah! [emoji16]

Now I just need to get my car up to Carolyn's and organise a weekend of fun/hard work.... And then I might get my car back!

Anyone know if you're supposed to wrap a PPE? I'm assuming NOT as it's mild steel....

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[jvanzyl]

Right, it's the shopping and to do list time for an engine swap..
To buy:
- 1 X new oil filter
- 5L 5-30 oil
- bunch of containers to catch gearbox oil, and coolant so it can be reused..

I can totally run the new engine on the existing exhaust manifold and cat, but in the event it's possible to put in the PPE then I'll need:
- Gaskets for exhaust manifold ( TBD)
- 3x post cat O2 sensors (TBD)

To do:
Put in wiring for oil pressure gauge
Get date booked for engine swap
Get trailer booked for this





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[Carolyn]

Right, it's the shopping and to do list time for an engine swap..
To buy:
- 1 X new oil filter
- 5L 5-30 oil
- bunch of containers to catch gearbox oil, and coolant so it can be reused..

I can totally run the new engine on the existing exhaust manifold and cat, but in the event it's possible to put in the PPE then I'll need:
- Gaskets for exhaust manifold ( TBD)
- 3x post cat O2 sensors (TBD)

To do:
Put in wiring for oil pressure gauge
Get date booked for engine swap
Get trailer booked for this





Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

There'll be more.. driveshaft gaiters for a start!  Get the car here and we'll write a list.  Got all the fluid catching kit in the workshop.  Plus I get trade discount on stuff like oil.
Don't expect it all to be done in one weekend.  It might be... it might not.  Best not to rush.

[jvanzyl]

Oh yes!
Forgot about those..
How are you doing for space? I can trailer mine up and swap out your blue and store that round mine till my silver is done if it helps?

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[Joesson]

Will a new clutch be on your list John?