'01 Silver - The daily commute smile machine! (Turbo build)

[Joesson]

Thanks both. The see sawing went wrong, I'm a little jaded / shell shocked but unhurt. Car is now on quickjack whilst I keep working on it.

To add insult to NO injury collective experience would now suggest that raising or lowering one end or the other has no effect!
Most importantly "unhurt".

[Ardent]

From the service docs.

In order to do sure filling of the coolant, perform the
operation where the vehicle can be kept evenly flat

[Joesson]

From the service docs.

In order to do sure filling of the coolant, perform the
operation where the vehicle can be kept evenly flat

If all else fails - Read the instructions

[inigopete]

I run a bike (bicycles) workshop. The instructions for bleeding brakes usually say to hold the bike level in the workstand. But we know from experience that if you get bubbles stuck in the hoses, sometimes the best way to alleviate this is to tilt the bike around so wherever you're drawing the fluid from is where the bubbles rise to.

The ideal bleed setup makes sure air can rise quickly up the hoses to come out of the top of the system. I guess if you can safely do this with a car, it's bound to help even if the manual says otherwise.

[Petrus]

the best way to alleviate this is to tilt the bike around

 if you can safely do this with a car, it's bound to help even if the manual says otherwise.

I busted my shoulder this way 

[Joesson]

I busted my shoulder this way 

A demonstration that you are heavier than an air bubble!

[jvanzyl]

Carried on running the car at idle trying to get cold air out of the vents. Turns out there's a little vent hole in the frunk so you can tell what the temp is.


Anyway.. still getting the occasional (I think) drop is the coolant level (using the service tubes). But still cold air...

Whilst this is going on I've been putting the suspension back together.. so far rear left brake hose is back on and the two strut to knuckle (or whatever) bolts.. a few more to go still and I can then drive it a bit to try and get this this burped..

[tets]

whilst I was having the fuel spill issue yesterday I filled my coolant, car on 4 stands, dead level and bled from the rad and heater pipe thing in the frunk - no idea whether it's bled as I haven't run it but got air then water out of both bleed valves!

Keep at it, it will come good!

[Joesson]

@tets said:
Keep at it, it will come good!

@jvanzyl said:
I'm thinking it's got something to do with ...... particularly the feed and return for the turbo.

I'm inclined to agree with both of you.

[jvanzyl]

@tets said:
Keep at it, it will come good!

@jvanzyl said:
I'm thinking it's got something to do with ...... particularly the feed and return for the turbo.

I'm inclined to agree with both of you.

Thank you both.
 The turbo lines are running hot- they've got fluid in them.
 
I want to get my oil temp and pressure gauges working, along with suspension done up so I can drive it forward and back and eventually up and down the hill.. that's gotta do the trick.

[Ardent]

I forget who said it recently. But if car can go on the road, given the state of them that is the best place to try and dislodge an air bubble. All the jiggling  about etc etc

[jvanzyl]

finished the lower rear suspension arms today, yet again with engine running and trying the bleed screws occasionally. Still no joy.

Strut tops next to be tightened up and then it's wheels on and I can do the centre wheel nut thing on the passenger side.

I did notice that the AFR values are sitting in the early 20's... which is possibly a product of the zero'd out emanage map? or 2:1 configuration of the O2 sensors? no idea.. but I think I'm going to remove the emanage and have the boost limiter set to like 1PSI or something and try and drive it gently without the piggy back and watch the AFR values..

reversed the polarity on the oil temp/pressure gauges.. and yet again no joy.. they still don't work.. so no idea there.. do these sensors go bad???

[thetyrant]

What are you using to read AFR ?


Coolant wise i would drain it out again at front then refill from rear as normal but go slow, make sure bleed pipes are on and open etc of course.

[jvanzyl]

What are you using to read AFR ?


Coolant wise i would drain it out again at front then refill from rear as normal but go slow, make sure bleed pipes are on and open etc of course.

I've got an AEM-x.

Hmm.. possibly could do that... in fact yes that's a good call..ergh.. not looking forward to that again.

[Carolyn]

You need to take the turbo out of the cooling system, reconnect the hoses and try filling it.  I bet it fills just fine.

[thetyrant]

I've got an AEM-x.

Where have you got the wideband sensor in exhaust?

Also did you fit the stock maf tube with the stock injectors ?

[jvanzyl]

Where have you got the wideband sensor in exhaust?

Also did you fit the stock maf tube with the stock injectors ?

Here's where the Wideband sensor is.



And the MAF tube is the same diameter though the sensor MAY be off by 1mm.. I shall raise it as this is exactly what the point of the maf riser isn't it? EDIT: it actually needs to go lower doesn't it?


And yes stock injectors are back in.

[thetyrant]

Here's where the Wideband sensor is.

And the MAF tube is the same diameter though the sensor MAY be off by 1mm.. I shall raise it as this is exactly what the point of the maf riser isn't it? EDIT: it actually needs to go lower doesn't it?


And yes stock injectors are back in.

Wideband looks in good place 

MAF needs to be EXACTLY as stock setup the slightest difference in diameter or height of sensor in the airflow makes a difference to how the ecu controls the fuelling, if you can fit the stock maf tube in ? thats the best way when using stock ecu takes away any variables.

[jvanzyl]

Got it thanks!
I found that there was still a MAF clamping map active, which maaay have had something to do with it.. don't know yet.

I'm going to start tidying things up, removing oil gauges for now and ensuring the underside is clear of things that can catch on the ground, getting bumpers on etc.. feeling a bit happier about stuff to be honest.

[shnazzle]

Got it thanks!
I found that there was still a MAF clamping map active, which maaay have had something to do with it.. don't know yet.

I'm going to start tidying things up, removing oil gauges for now and ensuring the underside is clear of things that can catch on the ground, getting bumpers on etc.. feeling a bit happier about stuff to be honest.

MAF clamping will only stop it reading beyond what it is capable of. You haven't hit boost yet so... unlikely to be the issue unless it's clamped at like atmospheric hehe

But you told me the MAF was stock! If it's not then that's 100% going to mess with fueling.

[Gaz2405]

I found that holding the car at 2500rpm for a few seconds and repeating helped a ton with flushing coolant into all the right places.

It's my go to method now and I've dropped the coolant a she's load on my build.

Maybe give it a try, coolant temp should go up and then drop as soon as you let it idle, just rinse and repeat.

I've had also had the car fall on me before, when a jack failed, luckily just one wheel off adjusting suspension.

[puma2]

  you are supposed  to be enjoying this build with a lot of frustration at times  
but not killing you    

[jvanzyl]

Hi all,
Thanks for the comments. I have the 2500 rev thing a go for a good 20 mins off and on- possibly some success but in the end I decided to drain it all and start again.

If time avails I'll try and refill it again tonight.

[Call the midlife!]

I'd consider some protection for those water lines, I think I used plastic, convoluted cable sleeving on mine, you can fit it in situ and it'll give it some protection from the road and from rubbing against where it touches chassis components etc.

[jvanzyl]

I'd consider some protection for those water lines, I think I used plastic, convoluted cable sleeving on mine, you can fit it in situ and it'll give it some protection from the road and from rubbing against where it touches chassis components etc.

Good idea!