replace exhaust

ballyclover · September 27, 2016, 10:16

Can i fit baffles, worried now...theres the insurance thing too

Essex2Visuvesi · September 27, 2016, 11:51

Quote from: "ballyclover"Can i fit baffles, worried now...theres the insurance thing too

Doesn't look like there is anywhere to fit them properly without surgery. The shape of the tailpipes means that most of the motorbike DB reducers would be difficult to fit
And as you say, You will need to advise the insurance company as well.

ballyclover · September 27, 2016, 12:32

I'll just go for it, if its too much it can always come of again, as I will keep the orginal. I've also got an induction kit to fit at the same time. All this said, it has its MOT this week, and if it fails that then depending on cost will determine if I keep it or not

1979scotte · September 27, 2016, 12:34

Quote from: "ballyclover"Can i fit baffles, worried now...theres the insurance thing too

Doesnt matter what form of after market exhaust you fit you always have to inform your insurance.
Tbh these days even if you change a badge or fit some stickers it is prudent.

shnazzle · September 27, 2016, 12:55

Quote from: "1979scotte"
Quote from: "ballyclover"Can i fit baffles, worried now...theres the insurance thing too

Doesnt matter what form of after market exhaust you fit you always have to inform your insurance.
Tbh these days even if you change a badge or fit some stickers it is prudent.

Totally agree. I've got every visible sticker declared.
You never know what they'll do you for.

Jock · September 27, 2016, 14:31

Ok ballyclover your getting sorted. All above advice is helpful. I suggest you do not start any work until after the MOT. In the meantime check with your insurance about the mod. Depending on the timing you may be better with a different provider and/or leave the mod until the renewal time. This is to avoid the current insurer having you over a barrel and hitting you with a hefty extra.
Looking at what you've got you can split the work into small bites. First get yourself sorted and be happy with removal of the rear bumper and get in about with loads of plus gas. Cheaper and as effective I use diesel and oil mixed in a spray bottle. Get replacement gaskets from MrT. You'll need the 2 and they are installed dry after you have cleaned the mating surfaces- scraped and finish with wet and dry.
Just in preparation you can ease and re tighten the heat shield fittings, which may have corroded.
Now you can try releasing the 3 amigos. Just loosen one and give it another squirt, nip it up and do the next. Now you can undo the three bit by bit.
At this point you can unbolt the cat at the outlet end. Make sure you support the cat as it's heavy. The gasket will be well crushed, but with care might be reusable in situation if required. With the cat out of the way you can dry fit your new part without the gaskets to check clearances. Don't forget to position the bumper.
Somebody here might have input but not knowing the weight of the cat/exhaust, I'm not sure about the lack of a hanger and leverage on the amigos.
If your ok with this, refit with the new gaskets and start her up.
If you change your mind at this point it's simple to reinstall the old cat, or hopefully get on with removing the remainder of the old system and put the bits back together s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: .
Hope some of this helps s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown: .

Joesson · September 27, 2016, 14:46

Sage advice Jock.

PS This translates to "canny" I believe!

Essex2Visuvesi · September 27, 2016, 15:31

Quote from: "Jock"Cheaper and as effective I use diesel and oil mixed in a spray bottle.

Great coctail that... I use Automatic transmission fluid and diesel. I use recipe given to me by my father in law, who works on farm machinery

1979scotte · September 27, 2016, 15:44

Quote from: "Joesson"Sage advice Jock.

PS This translates to "canny" I believe!

As if his head wasnt big enough already.

MR2j · September 27, 2016, 19:23

Quote from: "ballyclover"Oh no...hope its not illegal....it came like that lol...

It might be worth taking it to an MOT station if you're concerned. It looks like it will be pretty loud with no form of baffle though.

ballyclover · September 28, 2016, 11:07

Well failed mot..front l and r bearings..because they come with abs sensor and hub its gonna cost 500 quid plus mot cost...not so sure its worth more outlays

ballyclover · September 28, 2016, 13:42

Located bearings online for £100.00 each so going to get it repaired and maybe look to sell before the summer, but for now its back to the A plan and the new exhaust fitting as soon as I get time.

The bearings must have been the reason for the really wobbley ride when going over 50 mph

ballyclover · September 29, 2016, 19:34

hi, another question...is it possible to remove the exhaust with the bumper of and not jack up? or is best done on ramps?

MR2j · September 29, 2016, 20:06

Yes it's fine to remove the exhaust just with removing the bumper, no need to jack it up.

ballyclover · September 29, 2016, 20:36

so its easy access to the manifold with the bumper off?

gazza1286 · September 29, 2016, 22:10

If you're planning to gut the pre-cats from below and ramps are available I would use them. Undoing the three amigos are key and that extra bit of height will definitely improve access. You need to get every bit of the ceramics and wadding so looking directly up into the manifold will confirm that it's cleared. This you won't be able to do with the vehicle on the ground.

ballyclover · September 29, 2016, 22:37

But if i remove the manifold from above i shoud be able to access the 3 amigos without ramp i hope

ballyclover · October 2, 2016, 15:07

any idea how I will get this heat shield off? Are there more bolts underneath?

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Joesson · October 2, 2016, 19:15

IIRC the heat shield is in two parts.
The piece you can see in the photo, is the top part and is fixed at the top to the manifold with what is left of two hex head machine screws. The lower edge of this top half is fixed to the lower half with two similar, hopefully not so corroded fixings.
You will also need to remove the two sensors before removing the shield.
I would first of all apply copious amounts of Plus Gas to the threads of the sensors.
I would then locate and ( try) to remove the lower fixings on the top half of the shield.
If you can remove these, next remove the sensors and plug the holes with rag.
The top fixings look as if they are beyond help and even Irwin nut removers would not find anything to grip, so they need the heads grinding off..
If you can then remove the top section, and wish to replace the heat shield you may have just enough of the shank of the screw to grip with a Stilson or similar wrench and remove, after applying more Plus Gas to what is left of the threads.
Hopefully the lower section fixings will not be so corroded and Plus Gas and a six point socket should do the job.
Some expletives are allowed during this procedure.