Noise on insertion of the key

[Ricardo]

Firstly, I have learned today if it ain't broke, leave well alone. - And now I seem to have broke something!

Decided to fit Mono steering wheel last week. Got all the bits and proceeded to fit. Went to start up, car will not start and airbag light remains on - Thought it was just wrong resistor  as original was 2ohms so got the right one. Still no good.

Put old wheel back on and plugged everything back up and still won't start.

Concerned about the noise what seems to be coming from the engine bay when I insert my key into the ignition.

Also a noise coming from the front too when I turned the key.

Any ideas what it could be? Link to video below, didn't turn engine over in video as presume what ever is making the noise, it is stopping me from starting the car up.

 m https://youtu.be/nMXgA2kvWpw m

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[beavisrules]

noise from the front sounds like normal abs pump (or powersteering) mines the same.
in engine bay my guess it may be the tank vent solernoid , right where your camera pointed. it (was) on top of the intake pipe between air box and manifold.
could also the idle control valve going mad , but dont think so.

do the abs airbag ecu warning lights go off again? or even come on , cant tell from the video.
check your fuses.

[Tomo70]

When you removed your steering wheel, you did disconnect your battery first didn't you? Just wondered if you had not then fuse maybe be blown.

[Ricardo]

Thanks guys.

Airbag light is lit and stays on.

Battery was disconnected throughout the process.

Will check fuses just incase I may have blown it when connecting it back for the first time.

Will report back. Thanks again  s:) s:)

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[Ricardo]

Checked fuses. All intact. While I was there turned some round so they are all now the right way up  s:) s:)  

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[beavisrules]

if it's turning over it'll store codes , that would be my next check.
Cant remember if the OBD readers will clear the airbag error code or you have to use some trick, fairly sure it don't go off until cleared.

[Ricardo]

Thanks. Battery was off all last night put back on this morning. Airbag light now goes off but still getting noise from rear. Connected trust ODB and won't connect. Tried Bluetooth dongle for use with Torque Pro - won't connect.



Went through procedure 3 times on each just to make sure - same results.

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[beavisrules]

check for power at the ecu fuse.
maybe you've disturbed the ignition wiring so that one or more of the connector pins are not seated/inserted enough.
Also the ecu does the immobiliser , so check the led for that is on and goes out with key in.

[Ricardo]

Thanks for all your help. Wouldn't know  where to start on trying to resolve this.

Led light flashes when key is inserted. Does not go off.

Can't get a reading for ECU/IG (4) Just to rule out problem with connection with multimeter tested on Fan/IG (5) and Radio2 (24) got reading on these.

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[Ricardo]

Just took the steering wheel of to check plugs. Looks like the horn button plugs are set at different height. Forgot to check if they should be straight - Should they? Not sure what the right plug is. The one on the left is for the horn.



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[beavisrules]

Thanks for all your help. Wouldn't know  where to start on trying to resolve this.

Led light flashes when key is inserted. Does not go off.

Can't get a reading for ECU/IG (4) Just to rule out problem with connection with multimeter tested on Fan/IG (5) and Radio2 (24) got reading on these.

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Just to check , you have checked fuses in both boxes , the one on side of the dash has a couple of related fuses (including one for the obd) but the main ones are left side in the engine bay.
Would love to advise on how to check the relays too but doing that wrong cold make things worse.

Cant decide if ecu is not reciving an ign signal or failing to immobilise. probably the former and on obd reading.

[Ricardo]

Yes, checked fuses in engine bay too and to make sure the ones the ones in the frunk area. As for relays are there two the same I could swap round to test?

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[ptennisnet]

Led light flashes when key is inserted. Does not go off.

To me, this sounds like the car is not seeing the transponder in the key.

[Ricardo]

Have full set of keys. Tried all of them to rule out problem with the keys themselves. All of them give the same result, soon as the key is inserted, you get the noise from the rear of the car.

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[SteveJ]

soon as the key is inserted, you get the noise from the rear of the car.

Inserted or Turned? If turned, to which position (ACC, ON, Start)? When does the noise stop (turned back to ACC, OFF or removed)? Does the engine turn over?

[Ricardo]

Thanks again guys. Noise starts as soon as the key is inserted as soon as contact is made with the barrel. The key is not turned at all but when turned it still makes the noise. Noise only stops when the key is removed. The engine turns over but does not start/fire up and the immobiliser light blinks throughout. As a side note the keys still lock and unlock the car by remote fine.

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[jonbill]

Sounds to me like fried immobilizer in the ecu.
I'd suggest remove passenger luggage bin and confirm if the noise comes from the ecu there.

[wotugonado]

What about the actual battery, how old is it ? Mine gave me all sorts of electrical gremlins when it was on its way out. Have a search for battery immobiliser problems on the forum may give you some ideas for a solution. Here's one example  l viewtopic.php?f=31&t=57857&p=671263&hilit=Battery+immobiliser#p671263 l

[Ricardo]

Thanks again. Will pull out luggage bin - Just to make sure. It's in that area, louder from the engine bay but plastics could be suppressing noise from the inside. Battery, over 5 years old. Kept on charge with battery maintainer so always charged to the max.

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[SteveJ]

Thanks again. Will pull out luggage bin - Just to make sure. It's in that area, louder from the engine bay but plastics could be suppressing noise from the inside. Battery, over 5 years old. Kept on charge with battery maintainer so always charged to the max.

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Did you remember to disconnect the charger before the battery? There's been a couple of Elises recently with fried ECUs caused by float chargers.

[Ricardo]

Yes, always remove charger first as a matter of course whenever I go into the garage and do any work on the car. So will have a go at removing storage bin area this weekend and will let you know. Once again, thanks to everyone who has replied.

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[SteveJ]

Yes, always remove charger first as a matter of course whenever I go into the garage and do any work on the car. So will have a go at removing storage bin area this weekend and will let you know. Once again, thanks to everyone who has replied.

Did you run the car after removing the charger but before changing the wheel? (ie. was the problem there before you changed the wheel?) I would still be suspicious of it after recent reports (on other non-Toyota forums) of people connecting their winter chargers and killing the ECU.

[lamcote]

Can you clarify exactly what the concern is here? Do you mean you should disconnect the battery from the car before connecting the charger to the battery?

[SteveJ]

Can you clarify exactly what the concern is here? Do you mean you should disconnect the battery from the car before connecting the charger to the battery?

No - the standby/winter chargers are designed to be used whilst it is still connected to the car. The problem comes when the charger is connected to the battery cables and then the battery is removed (most chargers should cope with this but some don't). Also there have been instances where the charger fails internally, briefly sending mains voltage to the car before the fuse fails in the charger - this is pretty much guaranteed to fry the ECU!

When using a normal battery charger (ie. not designed for standby charging) the battery MUST be disconnected from the car.

[lamcote]

Can you tell me how I would know which I have? If it switches to trickle charging mode, is it likely to be OK to leave the battery connected to the car? Thanks