Noise on insertion of the key

[SteveJ]

Can you tell me how I would know which I have? If it switches to trickle charging mode, is it likely to be OK to leave the battery connected to the car? Thanks

What charger do you have? If the manufacturer states that it can be connected permanently then it should be OK, but simply having a trickle charge mode doesn't make it suitable for long-term (over-winter) car storage use - the charger should detect battery voltage drops and switch to a more suitable mode to condition the battery.

Personally I use the CTEK XS 0.8 on my Elise as it seems very well regarded by the Lotus community - fingers crossed I don't regret it when I wake the car up from hibernation next spring!

[lamcote]

I've just got a basic one from Aldi, but the instructions aren't clear on this point. It talks about an option for charging off the car, but it doesn't say anywhere that you should disconnect it!

[Carolyn]

There's a difference between charging and maintaining a battery.

If you leave a simple charger on for long enough it will damage the battery (takes quite some time).

A maintenance type device will monitor the battery condition and feed it just the right amount of lectrickery.

We use Oxford Optomisers for our motorbikes, 'cos those little bike batteries are delicate.  I've used them on car batteries and they do the same job.  They'll take forever to fully charge a low battery, but they will look after a good battery very nicely.

If you shop around you can get one (or equivalent) for around £15.

I suspect your Aldi one is  just a charger, but a pic would help.

[Ricardo]

Personally I use the CTEK XS 0.8 on my Elise as it seems very well regarded by the Lotus community

That's the one I have!

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[lamcote]

Thanks, this is a link to the instructions for the Aldi charger.

 m https://www.manualslib.com/manual/74659 ... e=3#manual m

It does seem to monitor the battery and alter the supplied charge.

Why is it that apparently simple things always turn so complicated the moment you know a bit more about them!!

[Carolyn]

That'll do!

[lamcote]

Great, thanks, I think a few people on here have this one.

[SteveJ]

Thanks again. Will pull out luggage bin - Just to make sure. It's in that area, louder from the engine bay but plastics could be suppressing noise from the inside. Battery, over 5 years old. Kept on charge with battery maintainer so always charged to the max.

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There's nothing inside the ECU that can make a noise (got one in front of me with the lid off) so unlikely to be inside the car (IIRC the only relay inside the car under the storage bins is the aerial one).

I've got a working (well it was when it came off the car 10+ years ago) J-Spec ECU which should be a plug-and-play replacement for the UK one (assuming your car isn't an SMT). The only difference is it ignores the 3rd O2 sensor and doesn't have the immobiliser functionality. [edit] Also you'll need a J-Spec OBD-II equivalent code reader if you want to read error codes from it[/edit]

If you're interested in trying it, it's yours for £30 inc P&P

[Carolyn]

I always thought combing ECU and immobiliser was a bad idea!  I have a J spec ECU (JDM car) and an aftermarket immobiliser - nice to keep the potential problems in two baskets.

I have JOBD code reader, which works well, plus I now have the code in Torque Pro so it can talk to a JDM ECU, so there's options there.

Some say... that the JDM ECU gives a bit more pep...

[Ricardo]

Thanks again. Will pull out luggage bin - Just to make sure. It's in that area, louder from the engine bay but plastics could be suppressing noise from the inside. Battery, over 5 years old. Kept on charge with battery maintainer so always charged to the max.

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There's nothing inside the ECU that can make a noise (got one in front of me with the lid off) so unlikely to be inside the car (IIRC the only relay inside the car under the storage bins is the aerial one).

I've got a working (well it was when it came off the car 10+ years ago) J-Spec ECU which should be a plug-and-play replacement for the UK one (assuming your car isn't an SMT). The only difference is it ignores the 3rd O2 sensor and doesn't have the immobiliser functionality. [edit] Also you'll need a J-Spec OBD-II equivalent code reader if you want to read error codes from it[/edit]

If you're interested in trying it, it's yours for £30 inc P&P

Thanks for the offer. Lots of minus points though re sensor, immobiliser and ODB. Will probably have to source a UK version and probably keys too? Will need to investigate more at weekend what route do go for.

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[SteveJ]

Thanks for the offer. Lots of minus points though re sensor, immobiliser and ODB. Will probably have to source a UK version and probably keys too? Will need to investigate more at weekend what route do go for.

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No worries - I just thought it would be a cheap route to proving the problem was the ECU rather than something else such as the transponder receiver in the steering column.

One other thing - have you reconnected the charger to make sure there isn't anything amiss with the battery (low voltage etc)?

[Ricardo]

Thanks. If it is ecu will need uk spec one - Battery is on with charger connected.a t the moment. Has been on and off throughout the process so always topped up. Is transponder receiver easy to access/test?

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[ptennisnet]

This shows the component parts  m http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Imm ... -Hardware/ m

I don't know where they live but they can't be that far from the wheel, judging by the length of the leads.  I guess the thing to ask is whether you could have disturbed any of them whilst changing the wheel.

[Ricardo]

Thanks for the info, yes it either damage caused when removing wheel or damage caused by removing/replacing battery leads.

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[Ricardo]

Hi all, sorry wasn't around last week to do anything - had to travel overseas to a funeral. So this morning I made a new video. Before recording I removed the leads from the car ( and set the alarm off oops! ) to test the battery on the multimeter. Reading showed 14v . Hopefully you will hear the noise from the rear starts as soon as the key is inserted and also it stops when returned the key is turned all the way and then back. Will do another sweep through of fuses and have a look at the ignition/steering area too.

Here's the new video...

 m https://youtu.be/noqeVd8KhYM m

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[Tomo70]

There is some kind of short circuit going on somewhere on the starter circuit. The starter motor sounds as though it's getting a supply but not engaging. When you start up is it trying to rotate the engine or is it just the fuel injection you can hear ?

Think this would be beyond me Auto electrician required.

[jonbill]

That sounds like a pump to me. Maybe a fuel pump running dry.
Does the fuel pump run on these cars on key insertion anyone?

[SteveJ]

There is some kind of short circuit going on somewhere on the starter circuit. The starter motor sounds as though it's getting a supply but not engaging. When you start up is it trying to rotate the engine or is it just the fuel injection you can hear ?

Think this would be beyond me Auto electrician required.

The noise occurs as soon as the key enters the barrel - long before the starter motor is energised. The only thing happening at that point is the immobiliser section of the ECU reacting to the transponder in the key.

[Ricardo]

Thanks again everyone. Checked fuses again. All good. Can't see any damaged wires around steering column. Suppose the next step would be ecu and immobiliser. Will need key fobs too but can replace internals in key.  Would I need the transponder receiver too?

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[Ricardo]

Just had ECU delivered off eBay with key. Plugged it all in and connected the battery. Starts perfectly - no noise from the rear, no noise from the front and odb works. Happy days! Thanks for everyone who helped out. [emoji16]

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[neil c]

Just been reading the thread, glad you got it sorted and well done


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[smarty72]

Just had ECU delivered off eBay with key. Plugged it all in and connected the battery. Starts perfectly - no noise from the rear, no noise from the front and odb works. Happy days! Thanks for everyone who helped out. [emoji16]

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Great you've got it running again, any ideas how trying to swap the wheel broke it in the first place?

[Ricardo]

Just been reading the thread, glad you got it sorted and well done


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Cheers Neil  s:) s:)

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[Ricardo]

Great you've got it running again, any ideas how trying to swap the wheel broke it in the first place?

Not 100% sure. I used one of those battery management chargers and uses a quick plug in    option so you don't have to remove the wires. It's possible this may have been the cause. For long stays in the garage now I will disconnect the battery from the car and use the charger that way.

Adding rather poor pic of the new wheel in place









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[smarty72]

Probably a wise precaution to disconnect the battery in that case, although it makes it slightly less convenient.