Clutch change DIY?

Started by bluesmoke, January 31, 2017, 17:41

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Print
Go Down Pages 1 2 3
User actions

shnazzle

#25
February 1, 2017, 20:02 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Thanks. We did a fair bit of learning to get to that. I can't reiterate enough what a difference it makes having a professional tool monkey at your side with work like this.
The same way I know core concepts of IT, management and business and can offer a lot of insight anybody starting in those fields... Ian really brought a hell of a lot to the table.

So I'd say, if youre going to tackle this for the first time,do it with someone who knows.
...neutiquam erro.

bluesmoke

#26
February 2, 2017, 18:20 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Right I am part way through this. It's going very slowly!

I have removed the battery, airbox, taken the shift cables off the pins and have started taking bolts out of the gearbox housing now. However, I haven't been able to get anything in to release the U clips on the shift cables so they're still attached.

Anybody able to offer any tips? There's just too much pipework in the way. My current plan is to try and get to them again after lowering the engine down a bit.....

Mark A

#27
February 2, 2017, 18:45 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Dont remember it being difficult, I think I used a screwdriver to prise the clip up. Can you gain access from below to push them up?

shnazzle

#28
February 2, 2017, 19:03 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
This is nature of car work mate. 90% of the time there is crap in the way. Well-placed and measured force and use tools. You can get to them.
You don't gain much more space when it's dropped, but it does help a bit.
Are you sure you've bent those pins back? Without that, they're never coming out
...neutiquam erro.

bluesmoke

#29
February 2, 2017, 19:14 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Aye I know. I've been here before but it was a long time ago. I just couldn't get in, then had a brainwave; a trim removal tool. It's basically a hook with a T handle. Did the job easily  s:) :) s:)

Now I'm just trying to figure out how to suspend the engine as I don't have an eye on the rear in the middle. The intake manifold is there and there's nowhere to wrap a strap. I'll get it done if it's the last thing I do but I'm so bloody cautious these days everything takes ages!

bluesmoke

#30
February 2, 2017, 19:16 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Oh and I've discovered A. I need a new subframe and B. I need to treat rust on the underside just in front of the rear wheels. Awesome!

bluesmoke

#31
February 2, 2017, 19:22 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Actually, I might be able to wrap a strap right under just before the engine and gearbox meet. I think the proud bits on the bottom might keep the strap off the oil pan.

Back out I go.....

bluesmoke

#32
February 2, 2017, 20:08 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Right, anyone know where the other starter bolt is? Found this one:


I believe there's another to remove?

bluesmoke

#33
February 2, 2017, 21:18 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Decided to pick this up in the morning when I can carry on in daylight rather than spend tonight struggling.

bluesmoke

#34
February 3, 2017, 11:45 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Right,  back at it!

Do I have to unbolt the front suspension arm at the rear, that one that also seems to have a sort of brace attached to it? I'm guessing that's one of the ones mentioned in the how to but just double checking.

Let's hope the extra night of plus gas will have helped!

bluesmoke

#35
February 3, 2017, 13:00 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Anyone know if this should bash out or if I'm meant to unbolt it?

Either way, it sure doesn't want to move!

shnazzle

#36
February 3, 2017, 13:17 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Bash
...neutiquam erro.

Essex2Visuvesi

#37
February 3, 2017, 13:33 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest

bluesmoke

#38
February 3, 2017, 13:40 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Haha love that.

OK well I've been tentatively giving it some lump hammer but wasn't sure that was the correct method!

I'll get into it properly now I know.

bluesmoke

#39
February 3, 2017, 13:58 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Well the end of the bolt is crushed and the  sfuck fuck sfuck er is not moving. No amount of bashing is shifting it. Bit stumped at the moment.

Fin

#40
February 3, 2017, 14:44 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
I ended up dropping the other end of the bar, then using the bar as leverage. New cam bolts weren't too expensive from Mr T...
The Sun is out, the sky is blue,
The roof is down on my MR2,
And I\'m grinning, grinning ear to ear!

bluesmoke

#41
February 3, 2017, 14:46 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "Fin"I ended up dropping the other end of the bar, then using the bar as leverage. New cam bolts weren't too expensive from Mr T...

The ball joint end? I'm seriously considering having a go at that. Can't believe I'm being stopped by one bolt!

bluesmoke

#42
February 3, 2017, 15:06 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Undone the ball joint end piece of  spiss piss spiss . FFS.

At least I know not to bother wasting time on those arms when I replace the subframe. Anyone know the thread pitch of those camber bolts? Need to recut the end of this one.

bluesmoke

#43
February 3, 2017, 19:25 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Box is out. Wish I'd left the oil seals alone though as they were perfect and trying to get the nearside one out is impossible. It's bent my best Halfords screwdriver. No signs of it coming out. And now it's raining.

Essex2Visuvesi

#44
February 3, 2017, 19:41 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "mulaz"Worth Buying one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/500-kg-Engine-Support-Double-Beam-Bar-Stand-Motor-Lifting-Gearbox-Garage-Tool-/332089810530?
will make the job safer and easier £36 off ebay
s-l1600.jpg

Please Please PLEASE be very wary of buying that particular support from that seller. Mate had that one and it buckled. luckily no damage was done and no one was hurt. I'll see if he still has the pics
He was only pulling an RX8 Engine (less than 1/3 of the advertised safe weight)

bluesmoke

#45
February 3, 2017, 19:49 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Christ!

Well the second seal is out. What an absolute  sbastard bastard sbastard .

shnazzle

#46
February 3, 2017, 20:14 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "Essex2Visuvesi"
Quote from: "mulaz"Worth Buying one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/500-kg-Engine-Support-Double-Beam-Bar-Stand-Motor-Lifting-Gearbox-Garage-Tool-/332089810530?
will make the job safer and easier £36 off ebay
s-l1600.jpg

Please Please PLEASE be very wary of buying that particular support from that seller. Mate had that one and it buckled. luckily no damage was done and no one was hurt. I'll see if he still has the pics
He was only pulling an RX8 Engine (less than 1/3 of the advertised safe weight)
Hmm... That's very worrying. Ian's never seemed to give at all
...neutiquam erro.

Essex2Visuvesi

#47
February 3, 2017, 20:30 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Maybe he just got a bad one... I guess we just need to be wary

mulaz

#48
February 3, 2017, 21:17 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
never believe any quoted lifting limits for any cheap Chinese products but i think he got a bad one as the one i have is excellent value and well made.
we hardly put any load on the engine support frame when dropping a 25kg gearbox and i would still rather use this than ratchet straps than around the engine bay cross member as other have done
Failure sometimes comes with quality too. i have seen a £250,000 crane fail when lifting well in it's safe SWL
Slowly replacing all the old parts for new parts so that one day i will end up with a brand new car !   s]

bluesmoke

#49
February 4, 2017, 11:41 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Well the gearbox went back on last night but there's a fair bit of work left to finish the job this morning.

I absolutely couldn't baby the offside oil seal. It was a horrendous job getting everything lined up. Just have to hope it wasn't damaged.

Shnazzle's guide mentioned the clutch cover plate only fitting one way. I've either got lucky or that's not the case with the Exedy. It was pretty symmetrical but I did attempt to put it on what I perceived to be the same way as the stock item. Torqued all the nuts up then went around them all once or twice and checked again. I know they're fine, but I'm still paranoid they're not!
Print
Go Up Pages 1 2 3
User actions
Tags: