power steering pump failure

[Anonymous]

also worth noting the pump is fully rebuildable
though in most cases a secondhand pump is both easier and cheaper

Do you know where to get parts to rebuild this pump?
I can't find a rebuilt pump but rebuilding it should not be too hard - with the parts.
I read the brushes are the weak point.  
I'm in USA, by the way.

Thanks,
John

[cclarke99]

All the hydraulic pump parts can be bought from Toyota see the parts reference at  m http://www.toyodiy.com/ m  

These people might be able to supply the brushes, they're UK based, but I'm sure could post them:-  m http://www.carbonbrush.co.uk/ m

[Two's Company]

Is it normal for the pump to make a whining noise if you move the steering wheel from side to side when the car is stationary?  Also a bit of a grinding noise from the steering column at the same time?

Thanks

Steve

[Wabbitkilla]

The wining noise is ... err, the usual noise the pumps make, some are quieter than others. Mine has made it for quite some time (touching wood) and so far so good. They normally quieten when you're not moving the wheel.

Grinding isn't quite normal, however it could be down to the UJ at the bottom of the steering collumn being dry under the plastics in the frunk. Take the plastics off, give it a bit of a clean and spray it with grease ... it should queiten down. There have been known to be one or two fail on high mileage cars, so just keep your eye on it if it gets noisy.

[Two's Company]

The whine seems to have increased recently - i have never noticed it before.  PS fluid has been changed but it hasn't made any difference.

[Toplesscouple]

.
I took a small hammer, and while the pump was "spooling up" (I had a friend turn on the ignition for me) I gave it a couple of sharp taps with the hammer ON THE ALUMINIUM PUMP CASTING (not the soft steel can which surrounds the armature). This re-seats the motor shaft in the end bushings - a simple trick learned after years of rebuilding pumps and alternators.

It has worked flawlessly ever since. .
S.

Our P/S light came on today on the way home from a local jaunt. After checking the electrical side (well, pulled a fuse and it seemed ok   s:) s:)   ) I used the hammer trick. Appears to have worked. I guess we'll find out next weekend on Stephs run   s:scared: :scared: s:scared:

[Anonymous]

Ive got a couple for sale. See my ad in commercial sales.  s:) s:)

[Anonymous]

Hi,

I'm having similar problems with my 2003 Roadster, and would appreciate some guidance as to what I need to check to diagnose the problem - £1400 for a new pump is scary!

The car has been completely reliable for years, but after standing idle for a while due to a company car, it started to develop problems.  I think it knows I'm thinking about selling it!

First to go was the battery, so a new one has been fitted.  Before anyone jumps to conclusions, the alternator is fine, its just an 8 year old battery couldn't cope with the long periods of standing idle.

Now the power steering is playing up.  Initially it suffered the "tank syndrome" described here, but this then eased and the steering is almost back to normal, but there is a sort of "sticky bit".  when you turn left, all is fine for a while, but once you go past a certain steering angle (which seems repeatable) the steering tightens up, and then eventually "pops" going OK once past the stiff bit.  A similar thing happens when turning right, but does not seem as pronounced.  It's as though something repeatedly sticks, then frees itself.  I have has no warning lights at all.

Does anyone know what this is, or what tests I need to do to identify the problem?

Thanks

Sue

[Anonymous]

Might be the lower steering knuckle. Park up, engine off . Look at front wheel while moving steering from side to side. Any play at all before the front wheel moves? Knuckle is probably shot.

[Anonymous]

Check this out. http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=32611

[Anonymous]

Sorry Les, I forgot about your dirty pictures!  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  
Great example of "pic tells a thousand words.  s:) s:)

[Anonymous]

Sorry Les, I forgot about your dirty pictures!  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  
Great example of "pic tells a thousand words.  s:) s:)

That's ok D!cik   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  the one symptom that never showed was having any play, in fact it was so tight the steering wouldn't self centre, another sure way of isolating the lower steering column U/J

[Anonymous]

Ive changed a few, and thrown a few out, and the steering wheel wiggle test worked each time. Im always trying to learn more about the car though and take note of your experience.
Did you jack up the front and operate the steering without the pump running to isolate the knuckle?

[Anonymous]

Ive changed a few, and thrown a few out, and the steering wheel wiggle test worked each time. I'm always trying to learn more about the car though and take note of your experience.
Did you jack up the front and operate the steering without the pump running to isolate the knuckle?

I did indeed............Best to check all possibilities on a steering fault, although once I saw the state of that bottom joint I had my suspicions and after a liberal  spraying of WD40 the effect was like switching the power steering on again   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[Anonymous]

Thanks Les. Im learning a bit more each day. Should have it cracked by....2030!

[Anonymous]

I was wondering when the power steering pump was serviced was the fluid changed, if so was the correct Toyota fluid used?  Standard power steering fluid is the kiss of death to the electric power steering pump on our cars.  The fluid is available from Toyota at about fifty usd per pint-but don't skimp.  If whoever serviced your power steering used regular fluid, they could be on the hook for cost of replacement.  good luck.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the advice.  Checked out the knuckle at the weekend, and sure enough it's very corroded.  There was no freeplay to the wheels, just a stiffening up of the steering wheel.

A good soaking of WD40 has freed it up a lot, but there is still a little stiffness noticeable, so I think it's best to get a replacement or have it refurbished.

I had a look at Parkinsons from the link with the photos, it doesn't seem to suggest they do refurbs.  Anyone know a suitable low cost solution in the Midlands?

[Anonymous]

PMd

[The Zohan]

Right then, other half's (her car) reports back that the steering has "got heavy!" i do not drive the '2 much - haven't for several weeks so nothing to compare it to. I know the PS can be a pain on these so with heavy heart checked it and it felt heavy to me and her.

i tried the steering with the engine running and off and definitely much heavier with the engine off - good news although could not hear the pump but it had to be working

(using the pics/guide i removed the 'frunk' cover, took all of 2 min's broke half the (brittle) clips so will replace them once we have re-mortgaged the house!)

the pump is running and fluid levels ok - the knuckle joint was in a right state - soaked that in WD40 for 10 mins -  rotating it and spraying it at different angles to ensure good coverage and penetration.

steering now freed off and you can already tell the difference.

...used around half the can on that joint!

Would be interested in a refurbed/replacement knuckle joint if they are avaliable

BTW the advice on this thread was spot on, thanks to all those who have contributed  s:) s:)

[StuC]

Hasn't MattPerformance got a batch of them ready to go?

[Anonymous]

Search results for "Steering joint"   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:   CLICKY

[no1trancefan]

How much are the uj part out of curiosty? Think mine needs changing thought it would take at least 30k miles to get to that though. Dick do you have any non whinning pumps in atm

fixed pump with a full flush n bleed no more whine