M1tch's long term 1ZZ build - Project 11

[m1tch]

Here is the updated list of the initial list:

New rear tyres - DONE
Brake discs and pads - bought, but only rears need sorting, fronts have plenty of pad, plan to do that soon
Adjust handbrake - adjusted
Possibly rebuild rear calipers if sticking - Caliper are fine
Paint up brake calipers - Might just leave as OEM
New wiper blades - DONE
Hard top and fitting kit - DONE
Refurb alloys - waiting for weather to improve
Find rattle in engine bay - Think this is the manifold heat shield, still investigating
Replace main cat O2 sensor - DONE
Replace/refresh number plates - DONE
Check bores/pistons of engine using bore webcam - DONE
Check current spark plugs for engine health - DONE - replaced
Compression check engine - DONE - cold compression test shows even pressure on all cylinders
Replace failed bulbs for instrument backlight - need to order bulbs once I work out which ones I need
Check status of check engine light bulb on instrument PCB - DONE - check engine light has tape in front of it within the cluster
Check camchain for play - DONE - No play, chain tight
Replace/reseat rocker cover gasket to sort possible leak - DONE - Gasket changed when checking cam chain
Replace cam chain O ring to repair main oil leak - O ring has arrived, fitting soon
Check for possible exhaust blow - Exhaust seems ok although is slightly rusted, TTE exhaust is original
Debadge rear - DONE
Replace 175,000 mile old fuel pump - still to do
Check steering U joint - still to do
Check rear subframe - initial check shows no rust but want to check closer - looks ok but will take off heat shields to check
Replace incorrect locking wheel nuts with correct flat washer locking wheel nuts to avoid snapping studs - DONE
Paint hard top - DONE
Polish headlights to remove clouding - DONE - headlights polished up a bit but don't seem too bad

New list:

Brake discs and pads - bought, but only rears need sorting, fronts have plenty of pad
Refurb alloys - waiting for weather to improve
Find rattle in engine bay - Think this is the manifold heat shield, still investigating
Fit new Apexi induction kit
Remove OEM exhaust brackets currently not used on engine block for weight reduction
Replace 175,000 mile old fuel pump - still to do
Check steering U joint - still to do
Rust treatment on any surface rust parts
Relocate battery
Replace cam chain O ring to repair main oil leak - O ring has arrived, fitting soon
Remove remaining aerial cabling
Fit Dastek Unichip and check for overfueling
Remove soft top

[The Other Stu]

Yeah, going to phone Rogue motorsports for their kit, I think there is also a kit over in the US, to be fair one of the main reasons to get it is for security as its quite easy to just break a window and unclip the expensive hard top!

I've seen you mention this a few times. I'm taking it you've removed your alarm?

I think most of us have done the alarm mod which not only gives you more room in the frunk, but also means the alarm will now wake the dead!
Even if you live in the roughest of rough places, I can't see anyone taking the time to remove anything once the alarm starts.

[m1tch]

Yeah, going to phone Rogue motorsports for their kit, I think there is also a kit over in the US, to be fair one of the main reasons to get it is for security as its quite easy to just break a window and unclip the expensive hard top!

I've seen you mention this a few times. I'm taking it you've removed your alarm?

I think most of us have done the alarm mod which not only gives you more room in the frunk, but also means the alarm will now wake the dead!
Even if you live in the roughest of rough places, I can't see anyone taking the time to remove anything once the alarm starts.

I have retained the OEM alarm, its the only thing left in the frunk - its not sitting on the front cross member using one of the threaded holes that was freed up after I removed the frunk support straps.

[m1tch]

After having a further thoughts and to give this project a goal in terms of power I have decided that the power goal for this project is the same as the 'Gentleman's agreement' for Japanese manufacturers which was set at 276bhp although this ended in 2005.

With this figure in mind and the car's weight reduced to around 950kg (still need to weigh the car) it would give me around 295bhp per ton and giving me a low 12 second 1/4 mile time.

Considering some of the cars in the 'FI performance' section of the site are pushing 300 or more bhp this should be attainable although would be out of reach on a stock internal engine, the gearbox would be the next weak link and I am planning to upgrade 3rd and 4th gear which should allow me to push past this figure in the future.

[m1tch]

Although I don't need to I have booked the MR2 in for an MOT next Tuesday, its not due until the start of December but don't really want to be fixing things in winter and then driving it on icy roads to get to the garage! There were a few advisories on it in January, number plate (replaced), Partial exhaust leak (new gasket fitted by previous owner) and hand brake close to minimum (now adjusted so the hand brake actually works!).

Fingers crossed it should pass ok, if not it means I have some time to go through and fix anything else that is outstanding to make sure its a good solid car.

[1979scotte]

I think you should up your power goal to 280 bhp and 250 ft-lb of torque.
Double stock.

[m1tch]

I think you should up your power goal to 280 bhp and 250 ft-lb of torque.
Double stock.

Hmm double stock sounds like a good goal and quite attainable although not on stock pistons and rods, keeping the torque to 250 ft/lbs max would mean I could run a stock box although still tempted to upgrade the box whilst everything is out.

[1979scotte]

If going for forged internals and upgraded box aim north of 300.
What turbo are you using?

[m1tch]

If going for forged internals and upgraded box aim north of 300.
What turbo are you using?

I like the option with a turbo to select the power level, so yeah I will aim higher, not sure what the next thing that might have an issue might be, will probably be the head as I think the crank is good for a fair bit of power.

Still deciding on a turbo, need to work out some flow calculations and check the compressor maps, thinking larger than a t28, the exhaust manifold link you sent is for a T3 flange so I could look to a GT30 size turbo, might look at hybrid options though.

[1979scotte]

Garrett Gtx29
BW EFR6258.

Something like a gt2860rs will spool well but will be pushing hard.

Perhaps you would consider a Rotrex supercharger instead. A C30 94 would be a good choice.
Don't need a manifold then.

[jonty]

Interesting read Mitch, been a while since I last read your thread. The weight saving is impressive, when on the road I'd personally leave in the spare and toolkit, but when you get to the track that can come out.

In terms of next weight saving item I would look at a LiPo battery, I'm sure there's some info floating around about one that is around the 1kg mark.

[m1tch]

Garrett Gtx29
BW EFR6258.

Something like a gt2860rs will spool well but will be pushing hard.

Perhaps you would consider a Rotrex supercharger instead. A C30 94 would be a good choice.
Don't need a manifold then.

Still looking into options on sizing, I am leaning towards a turbo as I can run the engine at 5psi and 22psi and have different power levels whereas with a supercharger I would have to fit some sort of bleed valve to reduce the overall boost pressure, the manifold isn't that expensive for the turbo and it will also aid in cutting some of the exhaust noise level down.

I will initially be looking to run on stock internals so will start with a smaller turbo and probably make around 220bhp, after I build up a forged engine I can swap turbos, turn it up and see what the engine can do.

[1979scotte]

I am thinking of fitting a wastegate and boost solenoid on my supercharger setup.

If starting off small the world is your oyster.
Loads of Subaru and VW turbos floating about where people have upgraded.
Also the turbo used in the TTE kit can be had for about 300 ish.

[m1tch]

Interesting read Mitch, been a while since I last read your thread. The weight saving is impressive, when on the road I'd personally leave in the spare and toolkit, but when you get to the track that can come out.

In terms of next weight saving item I would look at a LiPo battery, I'm sure there's some info floating around about one that is around the 1kg mark.

Thanks, the weight saving doesn't look to drastic as all the weight removed is mainly behind the seats or out of sight so (apart from the missing passenger seat) it all looks fairly stock, not having anything in the centre console area really does make the car more airy!

I will look at batteries at some point, will look to move the battery into the frunk area soon as this frees up space in the engine bay as well as moves some weight to the front of the car. Looking at the car as it currently is, there can be weight removed from:

Brackets on the back of the engine (used for the OEM heat shield I believe)
Battery
Front foglights - although might just keep them in as I would class them as a safety item
Soft top removal - this isn't going to yield the weight saving I was hoping for as the softtop seems to be slightly lighter

Regarding removing the tool kit and spare for road use, I was thinking of having one of those tyre weld kits, however I have AA relay so I can get recovered from anywhere in Europe to anywhere else in Europe so if I do get a puncture I will just call the AA out to recover me back home.

[jonty]

Still sounds a ball ache mate, you'll get a spare wheel fitted in 5 minutes and a call out for AA is going to take way longer, for quite minimal gain on the road.

With the LiPo battery they are so small you'll get the space saving anyway even in stock position, so I'd look at that first.

[m1tch]

Still sounds a ball ache mate, you'll get a spare wheel fitted in 5 minutes and a call out for AA is going to take way longer, for quite minimal gain on the road.

With the LiPo battery they are so small you'll get the space saving anyway even in stock position, so I'd look at that first.

Point taken, its not my daily drive so its not on the road a huge amount, will look at refitting the frunk for road use as well as the tool kit.

Will have a look at the Lipo batteries, have even seen a few cars running with supercapaciter banks.

[jonty]

its not my daily drive...

...have even seen a few cars running with supercapaciter banks.

I didn't realise it's not your daily, though I'd still prefer to only bin the spare out at the track!

Interesting on super caps, hadn't heard of that...

[m1tch]

its not my daily drive...

...have even seen a few cars running with supercapaciter banks.

I didn't realise it's not your daily, though I'd still prefer to only bin the spare out at the track!

Interesting on super caps, hadn't heard of that...

Yeah I might look to reinstate the spare at some point for road use, you can feel a difference in the car's performance with the current weight saving though.

Yeah I have seen a few supercapaciter batteries being used more as an experiment on some cars, some have a small 12v bike battery along side it as an emergency recharge if the engine doesn't start on the first go - will be looking at some of the lipo or LifeP04 batteries as well although will look to do a battery relocation anyway for weight distribution.

[stchris356]

Interesting read Mitch, been a while since I last read your thread. The weight saving is impressive, when on the road I'd personally leave in the spare and toolkit, but when you get to the track that can come out.

In terms of next weight saving item I would look at a LiPo battery, I'm sure there's some info floating around about one that is around the 1kg mark.

Thanks, the weight saving doesn't look to drastic as all the weight removed is mainly behind the seats or out of sight so (apart from the missing passenger seat) it all looks fairly stock, not having anything in the centre console area really does make the car more airy!

I will look at batteries at some point, will look to move the battery into the frunk area soon as this frees up space in the engine bay as well as moves some weight to the front of the car. Looking at the car as it currently is, there can be weight removed from:

Brackets on the back of the engine (used for the OEM heat shield I believe)
Battery
Front foglights - although might just keep them in as I would class them as a safety item
Soft top removal - this isn't going to yield the weight saving I was hoping for as the softtop seems to be slightly lighter

Regarding removing the tool kit and spare for road use, I was thinking of having one of those tyre weld kits, however I have AA relay so I can get recovered from anywhere in Europe to anywhere else in Europe so if I do get a puncture I will just call the AA out to recover me back home.

I'd read the small print, othet motoring originations stipulate if a spare was originally supplied and is now unserviceable, they'll take you to the nearest tyre depot or call mobile tyre fitter to attend at your expense

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[m1tch]

Interesting read Mitch, been a while since I last read your thread. The weight saving is impressive, when on the road I'd personally leave in the spare and toolkit, but when you get to the track that can come out.

In terms of next weight saving item I would look at a LiPo battery, I'm sure there's some info floating around about one that is around the 1kg mark.

Thanks, the weight saving doesn't look to drastic as all the weight removed is mainly behind the seats or out of sight so (apart from the missing passenger seat) it all looks fairly stock, not having anything in the centre console area really does make the car more airy!

I will look at batteries at some point, will look to move the battery into the frunk area soon as this frees up space in the engine bay as well as moves some weight to the front of the car. Looking at the car as it currently is, there can be weight removed from:

Brackets on the back of the engine (used for the OEM heat shield I believe)
Battery
Front foglights - although might just keep them in as I would class them as a safety item
Soft top removal - this isn't going to yield the weight saving I was hoping for as the softtop seems to be slightly lighter

Regarding removing the tool kit and spare for road use, I was thinking of having one of those tyre weld kits, however I have AA relay so I can get recovered from anywhere in Europe to anywhere else in Europe so if I do get a puncture I will just call the AA out to recover me back home.

I'd read the small print, othet motoring originations stipulate if a spare was originally supplied and is now unserviceable, they'll take you to the nearest tyre depot or call mobile tyre fitter to attend at your expense

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Will check the small print - might look to run with one of those 'tyres in a can' as most modern cars don't usually run a spare, have noticed that the AA and RAC have a 'universal spare wheel' which can be used on a temporary basis to get you home for cars without a spare wheel.

[m1tch]

Decided to put the car through an early MOT to reset the MOT date to summer time rather than at the start of January as it was originally (so I don't need to drive the car during the ice and snow etc).

It passed with a few advisories, need to look into the shock as that should be pretty much brand new, I have all new discs and pads to fit all round as well but the pressure is off to sort things.

Advisory notice item(s)
Offside Rear Shock absorber has a light misting of oil (2.7.3)
brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened both fronts (3.5.1i)
spare wheel missing
Windscreen has damage to an area less than a 40mm circle outside zone 'A' (8.3.1d)
parking brake performance only just met requirments

[m1tch]

Power FC is on the way along with a basemap and an NA remap with similar mods (as well as a few turbo maps), I need to get myself a wideband O2 before I start running it though, the ECU should give me a bit of extra power and flexibility with tuning NA and low boost turbo, will probably look to swap out to an AEM EMS4 at a later date.

I will look to see what I can do with the PFC and will probably also get myself a 3 bar MAP sensor which should be compatible - initially going with the PFC as its the most common standalone to run so there will be some support out there for a mild power build.

The weather at the moment however is pretty rubbish so I can't really get out in the car or do many mods on it, still need to refurb the wheels and sort the brakes but those can wait a bit, I am also starting to clear the garage for some spare for engine building now that we are more settled into our new house.

[1979scotte]

You can't run a 1zz PFC with a MAP sensor.
They don't make a J detro kit for it.
Even there own MR2 Apexi turbo kit ran a MAF.

[m1tch]

You can't run a 1zz PFC with a MAP sensor.
They don't make a J detro kit for it.
Even there own MR2 Apexi turbo kit ran a MAF.

Hmm so I am guessing it just works on air flow, just working it through in my head, the MAF would be pre turbo so the volume of air drawn into the turbo before its compressed would be the value it fuels off. There would also be an air temp reading as well, but I would also look to fit an air temp post intercooler as well - perhaps using that as the 'air intake temp' as that would be the temp of the air actually going into the engine.

[1979scotte]

You can't run a 1zz PFC with a MAP sensor.
They don't make a J detro kit for it.
Even there own MR2 Apexi turbo kit ran a MAF.

Hmm so I am guessing it just works on air flow - but how would the ECU know about the level of boost its running at as it might have the same air flow but at a higher pressure?

Don't quote me but you have to have external boost control maybe.
My turbo kit had a boost control solenoid don't think it had a map sensor.
Was using Unichip piggyback.

PFC will be fine for modest power levels and for what you paid with the Hako it was a steal.