Battery woes

[Call the midlife!]

I'm having issues with the Crisis not starting, turn the key and get the machine gun starter solenoid for a few attempts then nothing.
It then starts fine with either jump leads or 5 or 10 minutes of fast charge from the trickle charger.
The charger has a test setting and it shows 00.0 when it won't start and 100% after 5 or 10 minutes of fast change.
I charged it for a few hours last night and it started fine to back out of the garage tonight while I tidied up but then 2 hours later wouldn't have it.
I'm not driving it anywhere near enough at the moment but would expect better performance than that?
For added info I fitted some led DRLS that come on with the ignition but didn't expect the draw from them to drag the starter down so much?
The battery is a Varta RAC special so probably not the world's most amazing but any suggestions gratefully received as always!
Also has a Clifford Concept 300 fitted that may or may not be working properly. Although it's supposed to have a smart charge feature that only recharges the back up battery when the engine is running.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JoeCool]

I'd be very wary of the aftermarket alarm. Not only because it may be a draw on a weak battery, but also because it means your ignition wiring may have been hacked about. That would be my first port of call.

I don't understand why anyone would fit an aftermarket alarm, these things have Thatcham standard immobilisers from factory. I suppose it was a bit of a thing a decade ago.

[Call the midlife!]

It was fitted years ago, the manual and certificate came with the other paperwork with the car so unless someone has tinkered with it since I'm fairly confident of the installation. But I agree it seems unnecessary and is a hassle having to press the button on the fob after turning the key in the ignition.
I can't even say for certain wether my light fitting has caused issues as I'd not had it long enough before I fitted them for the problem to show.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ChrisGB]

I think the battery is knackered. You can't charge a flat battery fully in 10 mins. It should draw a decreasing amount of current over several hours.

[Call the midlife!]

I think the battery is knackered. You can't charge a flat battery fully in 10 mins. It should draw a decreasing amount of current over several hours.

My thoughts also, the sales pitch said it was fairly new, can't remember how long ago but that doesn't necessarily mean it's still good. There's a manual reconditioning setting on the charger which might be worth a try but I've currently no confidence in driving it anywhere for obvious reasons.
My neighbour has a drop down tester so we're going to try that on it but I'm learning towards a new battery regardless. Cheers.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JoeCool]

What voltage is the battery giving when dead/after a charge?

So long as the alt is OK, and so long as you're confident the alarm isn't causing problems, it'll be the battery. Wait 30 seconds for gsf to drop a 52% code into your email, then click and collect one. I got a bosch silver battery from them when mine died last year. Good batteries IMO.

[ChrisGB]

Just a thought, is the charger OK / known good? Reconditioning charge may work, worth a punt.

[Call the midlife!]

What voltage is the battery giving when dead/after a charge?

So long as the alt is OK, and so long as you're confident the alarm isn't causing problems, it'll be the battery. Wait 30 seconds for gsf to drop a 52% code into your email, then click and collect one. I got a bosch silver battery from them when mine died last year. Good batteries IMO.

I've not got that far in my investigation yet [emoji23] everytime it's died I've only had time to get it running and back in the garage and all locked up.
Strangely though tonight I locked myself out of the garage (long story) and when I went back round to unlock the up and over door the hazards were flashing as if the alarm was going off but no sound. I don't normally set the alarm in the garage but must've pressed it by mistake, what set it off I don't know as I couldn't when I tried !
I know someone has silenced the "chirps" etc but not the actual alarm.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Call the midlife!]

Just a thought, is the charger OK / known good? Reconditioning charge may work, worth a punt.

It's a Ring one I think, not a cheapo, it's actually our kid's for his caravan and stuff but I've been "looking after it" for quite a while [emoji2]
I'm going to give it a try but wary of leaving it unattended while it's going.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Call the midlife!]

What voltage is the battery giving when dead/after a charge?

So long as the alt is OK, and so long as you're confident the alarm isn't causing problems, it'll be the battery. Wait 30 seconds for gsf to drop a 52% code into your email, then click and collect one. I got a bosch silver battery from them when mine died last year. Good batteries IMO.

I've not got that far in my investigation yet [emoji23] everytime it's died I've only had time to get it running and back in the garage and all locked up.
Strangely though tonight I locked myself out of the garage (long story) and when I went back round to unlock the up and over door the hazards were flashing as if the alarm was going off but no sound. I don't normally set the alarm in the garage but must've pressed it by mistake, what set it off I don't know as I couldn't when I tried !
I know someone has silenced the "chirps" etc but not the actual alarm.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

GSF??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JoeCool]

Gsf or eurocarparts. They have constant half price offers which means you get a marked up battery slightly cheaper than Halford can do. I also have the next 3 years worth of oil changes and filters sat ready to go... Oil service for £22 a go or so!

[Call the midlife!]

Gsf or eurocarparts. They have constant half price offers which means you get a marked up battery slightly cheaper than Halford can do. I also have the next 3 years worth of oil changes and filters sat ready to go... Oil service for £22 a go or so!

Aaah, got you, the "wait 30 seconds" bit confused me, long day! I'll keep an eye out, I do remember seeing a thread a couple of weeks ago about batteries and discount codes. Typical.
Thanks again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Carolyn]

Is this car a Japanese import?  If so, it does not have an immobiliser/alarm in the ECU.  Many imports, therefore, have aftermarket alarm/immobilisers.  Mine does.

It does put a drain on an already too-small battery, especially in cold weather.  If a battery has been dragged down to dead flat a couple of times, that's usually enough to kill it permanently.

As Chris GB advises, your battery is almost certainly fubar.  If the car is going to be parked up for days between use, I recommend putting an isolator on the negative side of the battery (about £5).

[Call the midlife!]

No Carolyn it's a pretty much standard 2000 PFL UK car, I re read the photo of the original Auto Trader ad last night and from that I'm guessing the battery has been on the car no more than 6 months but has had very intermittent use in that time. I've done one 150 mile round trip and the rest mainly round town or 20 mile round trips/blasts. The leds are wired to the ignition also so they're pulling charge on start up so I think I'll swap them to the side light circuit. I'm going to follow your advice re the isolator switch also once I get the time. I'm assuming for ease of fitting I can just put it straight after the battery? Ideally I'd like to have it on the dash, maybe swap it out for the passenger window lock but that's a lot of cable threading!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Carolyn]

A true isolator is a high current item.  Means popping the bonnet, I'm afraid.  You could run a racing car type , ( m http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battery-Isola ... SwP~tW3rg7 m ) but that's a two big fat battery cables to route.
I use this :  m http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battery-Isola ... SwhcJWOd~h m

[Call the midlife!]

A true isolator is a high current item.  Means popping the bonnet, I'm afraid.  You could run a racing car type , ( m http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battery-Isola ... SwP~tW3rg7 m ) but that's a two big fat battery cables to route.
I use this :  m http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battery-Isola ... SwhcJWOd~h m

Much appreciated! I've just ordered one off Amazon as I haven't Fleabayed since Moses was a lad! As I think Chilli Girl said recently, "What a great little club!"


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Call the midlife!]

The soup thickens... I'm reasonably confident now that the up and over garage door is tripping the Clifford alarm! But because it's not sounding, just flashing I hadn't realised until last night/tonight when I had to go back in and as I raised the door the hazards started flashing. Seemingly it's got a proximity sensor although I'm screwed if I can see where? If I remotely disable this alleged sensor it doesn't alarm with the garage door!
So I'm assuming that it's probably been going off more or less everytime I shut the door, although the hazards haven't flashed again while I'm waiting and watching!
So all the "auto lock/arm" features are getting turned off!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Call the midlife!]

Further investigation (bear in mind by a dimwit so probably not worth much). Car wouldn't start again, machine gun starter then slow clicks but enough juice to lower the window. Charger said o% charge.
Put multimeter on it and it was showing around 11.3 or so, put charger on it for 5 minutes and it said 100% but only got slow click from the starter again.
Gave it 10 minutes of fast charge and checked with multimeter and showed 12.6 or so, started up no problem.
Multimeter again with engine running and 14.2 on dial so I'm confident the alternator is putting charge into it?
So I'm going to do the manual conditioning with the charger and disable all the auto features on the alarm and see what happens. And also fit the isolator when it arrives.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Call the midlife!]

Apparently the "User Selectable Features" aren't as user selectable as they should be, not to me at least!
So as I can see no worthwhile reason for having the extra alarm and having 2 functioning keys anyway I'm going to get it removed, ceremoniously set it on fire then dance round it in some sparkly shoes !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sian]

I use this :  m http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battery-Isola ... SwhcJWOd~h m

Carolyn I'm hoping you can help. I'm trying to diagnose a battery drain so I've bought one of those in the mean time. However having just tried to put it on the car I have no idea how I'm going to make it fit. There just isn't much space around the battery. The negative lead is only just long enough to go on the terminal, let alone be twisted at different angles or it ends up unnervingly close to the metal bodywork. I don't suppose you have a photo of what angle you got this all to fit? Unless you have an import in which case maybe your layout and leads are different?

[Carolyn]

I have one on both cars, one EU and one import.  They are the same as far as wiring goes.  A negative lead close to the body work is no big deal - the body is earthed to the battery.... I'll take a pic....invoice to follow  s:D s:D

[Call the midlife!]

Can't speak for Carolyn but certainly fits ok in my standard issue 2..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Call the midlife!]

I have one on both cars, one EU and one import.  They are the same as far as wiring goes.  A negative lead close to the body work is no big deal - the body is earthed to the battery.... I'll take a pic....invoice to follow  s:D s:D

Haha! You were replying as I took my photos it seems![emoji38]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Carolyn]

if it's too tight against the strut tower, slacken the top battery clamp off and slide the battery towards the bulkhead?

[Carolyn]

that'll be two invoices, then!